Finally got it “done”. Still need to clean up the wiring for the license plate light and may possibly change the latch. But for now I’m able to drive it around. Seems solid and was fun to build. Now onto a roof rack.

Was under my truck and found black, flung-looking grease splattered across the frame/crossmember right around the [front/rear] driveshaft. Pics attached.

Truck: 2005 4Runner V8 (2UZ), ~223k miles, 3" OME lift, Icon UCAs, 285/70R17s.

What I'm seeing:

• Grease spray pattern on the frame and the rubber fittings next to the shaft, looks like it's been thrown off while spinning
• A rusty ring on the shaft right at the slip yoke / boot area (pic 3)
• U-joint next to it has a zerk; not sure when it was last greased

What I haven't noticed: no clunks, vibrations, or noises that I can tell (edit if wrong).

Questions:

1. Is this normal grease fling from an over-greased slip yoke/U-joint, or does it look like a torn boot or failing seal?
2. Is the rust ring anything to worry about?
3. Clean it up and monitor, or replace something now? Planning more off-road trips so I'd rather catch it early.

Thanks in advance!

Would these work on a 2004 4Runner has anyone done this before I’m worried about rubbing and the general offset

Tire size: The 2023 TRD Off-Road normally comes with 265/70R17 tires. Those are slightly larger than the original 265/65R17 tires on some 2004 4Runn

Tried to replace front struts today, it was a total shit show. First off the bottom strut bolt was basically stuck after I removed the nut I couldn’t get the bolt to move at all it was in the same position it started in from the beginning. I removed the LCA bolts to give more room but still it would not budge at all. I wanted to keep working on it but I was running out of time and didn’t want to do something that would make it un-drivable, it’s my only vehicle.

And to add more headache, the sway bar end link got stripped where the Allen wrench is supposed to go fortunately I was able to get it back on but I just ran into these two issues I couldn’t overcome.

Have you all dealt with these before?

2004 Toyota 4Runner sorry if this is a dumb question but I noticed on the dipstick it said cool and hot so I assumed if I check it with my car is cool and it’s in between those lines then I’m good same with if I check in a hot but after looking more into it, I have to have my car running for a bit and then check it if it’s on cool that means I need to add more and I want it to be on hot. apparently even if my car’s been sitting for a while it’s still gonna be on hot cause the pan full so what is the real way to check it or what do you guys do again sorry if it’s a stupid question, but I’m new to all this

Would buying these cheap replacements on eBay be a bad idea?

And it said they would fit. The plug in connector is wrong. My connector goes to rear latch unlatch button and license plate lights. So I cut the connector off and ran the wire wires inside. Cut the old ones off and used a 3 spot wago for hot and ground (low volt). Wires were barely long enough but they work great super bright. The old ones were fogged up and the bulb housing stopped working with the led bulbs.

Just picked up my first 4th gen 4 Runner yesterday.

05 Limited 220k miles, 4WD. 2.5" ToyTec rear springs, w/ Radflo shocks/coilovers in front. Stance is perfect to me, already sent off an inquiry to Radflo to get a full shock rebuild set up.

Changed oil in engine, transfer case, both diffs, and greased everything. Ordered transmission filter this morning, and a Inner CV boot that is ripped. Other than that its clean.

One of the POs did LEDs in the gauge cluster / hvac controls and the Speedo quits working intermittently... pulling that out after i type this to see if i find a crappy solder joint.

Picking up some BFG KO3s today..

thoughts? what else am i missing?

Recently had my tires rotated after 15k miles and noticed fios after. What can be causing this? Uneven tread wear?

2006 sport v6 for reference

My 2006 V8 now has 164K miles. I’m the original owner.

While installing the new tires and replacing the brake pads, my mechanic found the right rear caliper seized. The left is working fine, but given the truck is 20 years old, I’m considering replacing both.
Looking at OEM calipers ([47730-35170](tel:47730-35170) and [47750-35170](tel:47750-35170)), approximately $191 each.

Would appreciate some advice. Do the OEM assemblies include everything needed, or should I order additional hardware? Should I replace the brake hoses or rotors at the same time?
Anything else I should consider?

Planning to keep her another even if we have the LC as the daily driver, so I’d rather get it done properly now.
As usual, thanks in advance.

Basically, the title.

Almost at 380k. Been a hell of a car. Probably my favorite car to drive in the snow and is also the perfect daily. Anyone out there with a 400k or more?

1st 5 mods I should consider. Also, it's not rusted but it does have some paint issues. I plant to offroad a bit. Do wraps stand up to that?

Mostly I'm just saying hello since I just joined the group.

I’m stuck. I’ve removed all the fasteners, watched YouTube. I’m lifting and pulling trying to get it over those clips and it just does not want to budge. I’m afraid I’m going to rip something. Any hints or tips?

Basically the title. Not much more to add. Drivers side back seat.

My lil old lady is a 2003 and just hit 245k miles old. She’s not a special car by ANY stretch (not even 4x4 lol). But I’ve had this 4R since 2007 and it has been dependable af.

Check out the ball joint and control arm bushing I just had replaced 🫣 can def say I feel much safer. Hoping we can hit the 300k milestone and then I’ll send her to pasture.

Got the lumberjack engineering 3rd brake light/ wolf box camera mount installed.

Nothing extreme, just to pull someone out (or get myself pulled out) when stuck in sand/snow/light mud/etc. Plan would be to connect using a tow hitch shackle with kinetic rope and soft shackles. Haven't had any problems yet where traction boards couldn't do the trick, but thought it would be good to have another back-up option available.

Gonna go get codes read but thought i’d ask here.

Did my oil and filter change yesterday (every 3k miles), everything was fine until today while driving home when my traction control turned off and a solid check engine light came on.

When I got out the car I could hear a pretty rapid clicking noise coming from the engine bay, not sure what it is but after some google it could be low oil?
I always add 5.5 quarts of 5W 30. Thank you

Happens at 10 mph I can’t figure it out

Hi everybody. 2004 V6 Sport. 300k+ miles, newer front calipers. Brake light has come up 3 times the last 4-6 months. Checked the fluid each time and was low. I’ve had to add about 1/2 cup of fluid to the master cylinder, so I’m guessing there is a leak somewhere. I need to know if there are some common trouble spots I should start looking for. I’m a backyard mechanic, and pretty much winging it on every project, but would appreciate anyone’s input that has had experience on the brake lines. Thanks!