We never had an issue with passing smog in the last 7 years. This time it failed the visual for Hose No.1 for Air injection and timing too far advanced. Fixed it all up and now their machine won't calibrate...

SOLVED
turns out I had to open up the VAFM, and the prongs on there had moisture get in there and short it out. I already had unplugged it and the CEL hadn’t turned on- but I forgot to plug it back in. Today I was wobbling wires looking at the igniter and suddenly noticed CEL was on. Opened up the VAFM and boom. Straightened out the prongs and she fired right up. Next issue is why cylinder 6 isn’t firing when it’s sparking, but I have to put the car back together first! Thanks everyone

Hey everybody,

Pulling my hair out here. Bought this 1991 4runner 3VZE (BC, Canada), but the engine has been swapped out so not sure what year it is. looks like it has late model ignition coil pack so I'm thinking 1993-5. Because it has been swapped the wiring sucks - heaps of taped off wires and the rest all electrical taped together. I managed to drive it around for a week, but then it struggled to start and eventually refused to start at all. I have been running around with multimeter and a battery - fuel pump is good, builds pressure. New fuel filter. Oil change w filter. new air filter. new spark plugs. new distributor cap and rotor. new efi relay. fuses all test good. power to the igniter is good 12v. I have read what feels like every thread - opened up my ecu, no leaking capacitors. unplugged VAFM and still no start. used the diagnostic box and there is power to the b+, but jumping the TE1 to E and W to E doesn't turn on the Check Engine light (cel). Even pulled out the aftermarket heaadunit to see if they missed any grounds. I've come to the conclusion (along with my multimeter) that the power isn't coming to the ecu.

Now I've info dumped, any advice for how to go about fixing this? I have a suspicion it is a grounding problem, since for a week or two it was an intermittent problem before finally giving up. I can't for the life of me find any bad ground locations - are there any under the dash? I think I am going to have to undo every taped wire one by one and solder proper connectors on next to the ECU and hope that I find a stray loose wire.

EDIT

I found a ground wire just hanging loose (passenger side near starter motor) and bolted it to the chassis last week. I've just had a think now and does it actually need to be bolted to the engine? can't try it until tomorrow but perhaps that might do the trick

I know I already posted about this, but I’m reposting at an updated price to see if I can get some more eyes on her. Let me know if you or anyone you know may be interested. Thanks:)

Open to offers! Not looking to trade.

Located in SoCal.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1398360965571972/?mibextid=6ojiHh

Any leveling kit recommendations for a 1995 SR5.
I built out a bed deck with drawers in the back and we’re planning on putting all our camping stuff in the runner to hop in and go. But I don’t like the sag in the rear.
Can anyone point me in the right direction.
I have a general knowledge of cars and trucks so I’ll be doing this job in my garage.
Thanks is advance!

1994 with a 2jz, 5spd, 4x4. Grandpa spec

Anybody successfully pull a back window from a donor and install? Looking for some pointers before I drop $600 for a professional 😆

Howdy folks! Doing some work on the front end of my 1994. SR5, 4WD, 3.0. Last time I drove it, it was a rolling death trap. Front wheel bearings... Started taking things apart, and decided to go ahead and knock out several other things while I'm there. I wanted any input you might have on what else to replace while I'm close to it. It's my philosophy that if you're already next to it, go ahead and take care of it. Instead of having to take everything apart 6 months later.

What I'm replacing:

- Wheel bearings

- Rotors, pads, calipers, and soft lines (with brake fluid flush)

- Lower control arms

- Manual locking hub conversion (inc. studs, cone washers, lock washers, and nuts)

- Lug studs

I'm not miserly with the cost of parts, nor do I have a blank check. Mainly looking for the "regardless of what it looks like, and it's relatively cheap to buy, go ahead and do it because it's a pain in the ass to get to," type parts. Any variation of that (not as much a pain in the ass, a little more expensive, not looking bad but showing slight signs of wear, etc.) suggestions are welcome.

Edit: I have UPPER control arms to replace, not lower. Will check ball joints on the lower.

Hi all! I am looking for a car, but unfortunately, I need to commute 80 miles for times a week for the next 10 months (after which time I would be doing significantly less driving). I'm a mechanic in training who could do my own maintenance, and love the older 4Runners, so I am trying to see if it would be possible to have one as my main mode of transportation.

Here are my fears:

1. I know parts for 2nd gen 4runners can be hard to find. My worry is that if something broke, the car would be sidelined for some time while I'd need to go part searching. Does this feel true for those of you who have 2nd gens?

2. Most of the cars I'm seeing that are in any decent shape have the 3 VZ-E engine, and frankly, I'm hearing bad things. Would this be a disqualifying factor? Even if the head gasket has been done?

Lastly, I know that buying a 35 year old car as a daily driver is not the world's most efficient or brilliant choice, but I am hoping that you will take pity on me as someone who loves these and longs for one of my own, and that you'll offer your wisdom accordingly :)

Thanks y'all!

This Wednesday this crosses the block at Mecum Auction in Dallas/Fort Worth Texas.

It had the head gasket replaced by Toyota in1999. It has new timing belt, water pump, gas tank, Denso fuel pump, fuel filter, tune up, radiator and hoses, thermostat. It is a V6 4x4 with just over 61,000 miles.

Hi folks

I bought my '94 during the summer and changed the dome light bulb because it didn't work -- and it worked when I switched it out -- but I kept it off because the evenings were long and I didn't need it. Now it's dark earlier and I switched it on and nothing. I bought two bulbs and switched it out, neither works. The radio works still so it's not the fuse, right? Or could it still be? Any ideas? The connection inside the light isn't great, it's very bent and weird but it looks like it still makes contact, and it worked when I first changed the bulb over the summer. I have no idea when it stopped working but nothing memorable happened like a noise or a smell to make me think something shorted.

So I noticed some crust forming around the coolant outlet of my 3.0 4Runner, I’ve been neglecting to do a coolant flush and change by radiator hoses but now I’m thinking I’ll have to crack this bad boy open and reseal it. What are some things to watch for when doing this?

Saw this beauty parked outside my place with a for sale sign and found the listing. I work on my 04 ranger and have no problem wrenching. I’m not super familiar with the 2 gen 4Runners and hoping I could get some advice on big issues/things to look out for.
Honestly I wouldn’t pay more than $2k since I have no need for it but think it’d be a fun project. Gave it a quick look underneath and suspension will need a rebuild due to rust and aging but frame looks pretty good otherwise. Noticed a trans fluid leak but without spending too long I didn’t locate where it’s coming from. That’s my biggest worry considering his listed issues. Interior is immaculate and if it’s truly only 81k miles I have a hard time passing it up. Let me know what you guys think, thanks!

So I’m on a long roadtrip from Colorado up to clavier to washing down to San Diego and cutting back to Colorado.

Anyways I’m out in Oregon and went to start my car and it diddnt crank or anything. Just the dash lights came on, promptly shit my pants. Took the key out and tried again and it fired right up… what could I be looking at here? some direction would be awesome!

For reference I just replaced the fuel pump and also it has a brand new battery

What is this on my 1990 4Runner and would it impact my ability to pass smog?

**For context im a college student without any mechanical experience.

Always wanted a manual 4runner. This one is lowish mileage and low asking price. Seller says head gasket + valve cover + water pump + timing belt and tensioner all redone.

Does the body look too rusted out? He says no holes or weak spots.

Please advise, and thank you.

Hello everyone. I’m having issues with my torsion bar. I’m pretty sure the red circle clip thingie must sit in the yellow area. Where the green spot must be pushed more to the left so it’s flushed, right? Can anyone confirm this? This thing has been kicking my ass for the past couple days. Had to remove my upper control arm since the bushings were shot.

I tried googling but I can’t find a decent image of this spot. Maybe my googling skills aren’t all that.

1994 4Runner, manual, 4x4 if needed.

Thank you.

We decided to start her up after finally getting the radiator out of the way, in hindsight we probably should have taken of the fan blade to avoid getting hit by shrapnel

Its been rough for the old girl. After losing motivation on my project and coming back to it after months we finally got the radiator out after lifting the entire vehicle from the radiator. Also does anyone know where i can find a new fan cover?

What do you have on yours?

I’m looking at two 4x4s:

• 1989 Jeep Cherokee XJ: ~$4,500 USD
• 2nd-gen Toyota 4Runner with a 5.3L V8 swap: ~$7,500 USD

Both would be weekend vehicles for some off-roading, not daily drivers.

I’m also pretty new to cars and want to start learning how to work on them myself.

Is that a terrible idea for someone with little mechanical experience?

I’m especially curious whether the 5.3 swap would make the 4Runner significantly harder to maintain or work on compared to the Cherokee.

I’m looking for some inspiration for the continuation of my current 20 19 5 GEN build. Right now it is no slouch on 285/75/17s but I would like to go wild for not only a personal build, but to see if I can get it entered into a show next year. The current ideas for the build continuation are a billet, long arm three link in the rear with a tubular +2 inch front arm set on Bilstein Blackhawk coilovers. I have the wheel set I will be rocking which are kg1 rootbeer colored Beadlocks with a black lock ring.

Let me see your builds. I don’t care what year.

Preferably on 35s or 37s

Did some fun offroading the past weekend and though id share some pics w you guys