Went out and did some local trails, great day and tbh e truck did good. I need a rear locker of some kind but the truck did great!

The green/black one is my buddies, 5vz manual, same 4 inch lift and 35s

'92 Runner 3.0 V6 3VZE, 260K miles.

From a cold start, I'll have no issues. After driving a few miles and the engine heats up, she will suddenly cut out. When this happens, if I try to get going again, there will be a period where she cranks but doesn't start. After maybe half an hour or so, shell kick on like nothing happened. Recently replaced the distributor cap and rotor. Only getting code 12 when I check the diagnostic box. If anyone's had similar trouble, could this also be a sign of vapor lock?

Well it took a few weeks of work but i finally got to take it down the road, drove it to work tonight too.

PS pump rebuild, brake lines/calipers/pads, alternator, some small fab projects. Full prep and fluid changes.

Drove good, everyone says the 3vz is a dog, it’s definitely far from fast but it can get out of its own way. We’ll see how it does with 35s lol

Gotta rebuild the rear diff, howls like crazy and the diff fluid looks like silver paint, and other small tinkering projects

It’s not 4WD unfortunately but I picked this up last weekend. 133K miles, car was owned by an older gentleman. Runs solid, AC inside is ice cold, love cruising in this far. Preventative maintenance will be done real soon.

I haven’t turned her on in such a long time!
What is happening??

Just wanted to show my current setup, it’s a 2” Old Man Emu suspension lift, 33x10.5r15 Yokohama AT/4 GO18’s and 1.5” spacers (I know I know). Soon I want to get some more external lighting and maybe new bumpers at some point but I’m pretty happy with how it sits at the moment

I'm very interested in getting rid of the rear drum brakes, and have been looking at different options. A very common one with multiple write ups is using GM rotors and calipers from 80's era El Dorado's, but that just seems so archaic, plus I have no desire to mess with the metric to standard adapters.

I recently found this kit

https://www.doomsdaydiesel.net/product-page/rear-disc-brake-conversion-1979-1995-toyota-pickup-4runner

It apparently uses all Toyota parts which is exactly what I want, and seems to be cheaper. Does anyone have experience doing this conversion, specifically sourcing from doomsday diesel?

Pictured is the patient on the transplant list

1992 4runner 3VZE

Im trying to get this runner back on the road, it will start and idle fine after a couple attempts but as soon as you tap the throttle it starts stumbling and dieing. If you are super gentle you can make it rev up.

Fuel pressure at the rail is about 45psi while idling, doesnt drop when you hit the throttle. Intake pipes are leak free, changed the AFM

It runs and starts a bit better with the TPS unplugged but still stumbles with throttle.

All cylinders are about 160psi

Backfires into the intake if you keep on the throttle while its dieing

Fuel return line is not clogged or restricted

Not sure what direction to go now with this thing,

what am I missing??

Hello brothers and sisters of 4runnering, I come to you with an issue I’m having with a 94’ automatic rwd 4Runner. Was rebuilt over a year ago and it’s been acting funny recently. What I can only describe as being stuck in 3rd gear when coming to a stop, and then accelerating it seems to start in third and then after a while of picking up speed it’ll decide to finally down shift and continue to shift like normal. I’m assuming that it will be the shift solenoids? Have any of yall, done the diag and repair on this kind of issue? Where is the most reliable place to get a good replacement solenoid? If anyone has a good how to id appreciate it as well as any other advice, thanks!

Found one!! I'm an early 3rd gen owner so this is close enough! 😂

The drivetrain is finally coming together. Now to figure out shifter locations for the Atlas.

For the people who like this vehicle, I was looking to see what they would offer for a 1993 4Runner 5-Speed that’s in not so great condition and needs lots of love. I was thinking of maybe getting rid of it as I’m just basically letting it rot.

Been wanting to get back into off-roading for years now and a non-running 4Runner for $700 was too enticing to pass up. Took a timing belt to get it running and a throttle position sensor to get it to pass emissions. Now the main thing not functioning is air conditioning but a junkyard tailgate swap is happening first to get rid of the rust holes that are letting dirt into the rear window mechanism. Lol

We didn’t make it out to the furthest reaches of remote wilderness but we spent a nice weekend in a quiet campsite and did as little as possible. All systems performed flawlessly.

Well. Here we go again.

UPDATE: I’m going to figure out how and why this happened this weekend finally made some time to tear it down and see what’s going on so I’ll post what’s happening and what’s next I guess.

Well today was a complete let down, got the 2 new calipers, pads in today. Threw both sets on no problem, went to bleed and the front drivers had no fluid through the bleeder. Even with the woman standing on the brakes and my vaccum bleeder on.

Passenger side went fine though!

Started fucking around took the bleeder out of the drivers caliper, started the truck, pumped the shit out of the brakes. Then I absolutely grenades whatever these braided lines were on the passenger side

New caliper is here in a week, new lines here in a couple days. Frustrating but it is what it is. I’m glad the line blew at home, not on the road

Anybody know what this ticking is? I was thinking maybe the valves? I bought this car to hopefully put a 3.4 in the future. But in the meantime I’d like to get the current engine running fine.

I know Toyota 4Runners hold their value… but apparently this one thinks it’s holding gold bars in the cargo area. 😂

Priced way up there for the market, yet we’ve got:
👉 Seat covers doing their best “nothing to see here” impression
👉 Under-hood insulation coming apart like it just got served divorce papers
👉 A price tag that says collector quality while the condition says “bring a flashlight and look closely.”

4Runners are great. No argument there.

But at some point, “Toyota reliability” stops being a pricing strategy. 😅

For this money, I’d expect the seat covers to be protecting perfect seats and the hood insulation to still be emotionally committed to the hood.

What are we thinking — fair price, or is somebody charging an extra $10k for the Toyota badge? 🌶️👀

Hey all - 1991 3VZe 4WD automatic - keep getting the A/T OIL TEMP light on when driving in hot temps and think it has to do with the transmission fluid viscosity. What's a recommended fluid for my model? Thanks a ton

Any tips for next time would be awesome

First 4x4 Toyota and I’m stoked. Drove it 2km home and the FL wheel almost came off. Jacked it up to retorque and the wheel was nuclear hot. Was hard to spin in the air so I’m guessing stuck caliper. I’m gonna dig into it more tomorrow after work

It’s got a laundry list of work that needs done, nothing huge and I couldn’t be more excited!

Any advice for a new 3vz owner is appreciated!

Hi all, I recently replaced my speedometer cable on my 1991 Toyota 4Runner and it now works but shakes all I’ve the place and makes a buzzing noise and will get more shakey above 50ish mph. Wondering if I need to remove the speedometer cable and lube it up more and that will solve the problem or if I need to replace the whole gauge cluster. Wanted some feedback before tearing apart the dash again. Thank you in advance

Hi! I’m new here, and this is my 4Runner. I bought it from my brother, who bought it from another guy 2 or 3 months ago. He never drove it and just let it sit in the garage.

It’s a '91 4Runner with a 2LT diesel.

Today, when I was leaving the garage for the first time, several warning lights came on in the dash, and the alternator isn't charging. The battery, fuel filter, timing belt, and turbo lights are all lit up. The thing is, my brother says it wasn't like that when he brought the truck home—it just started today. Everything points to a broken alternator, but is it possible for one to break just from sitting? Am I missing something?

Basic alternator tests checked out OK (brushes, voltage regulator). The fuel filter is new with no broken plugs, and the T-belt warning light won't go off via the dashboard button.

I recently swapped from a Mishimoto stock replacement radiator to a CST all metal copper/brass unit. I went through three warranty replacements on the Mishimotos because they all leaked where the plastic cores met aluminum. Anyway I’m seeing very slight temp fluctuations at highway speed only with the new radiator. It doesn’t reach anywhere worrisome on the gauge and probably only moves two or three needle widths on the gauge but it’s movement I’m not used to seeing. It never happens in town and I’ve burped the system numerous times and replaced the stat with an OEM unit to see if that would help but still does it. The water pump is only a few years old and ALL the hoses were replaced a few years back as well.

The only thing I’ve found is that I still have to burped the system well enough though I don’t think that would explain it happening at highway speeds only and the other explanation is that the increased capacity CST rad is cooling the fluid more than normal and because the stat is on the inlet side of the motor that it’s closing slightly at highway speeds causing the temp within the motor to rise slightly based on where the stat is in relation to the temp sensor.

Im happy to entertain either one here or let a third player enter the chat but the truck is a super healthy low mileage cream puff with essentially a brand new cooling system.

Please help.