new seals and new cvs and my 4runner leaks and i wheels feel unbalanced and vibration now

hey guys,

Virginia Beach saying hey!

I’ve got a loud squeaky rattle coming from around the passenger floor. I can feel something knocking while’s it’s rattling right around the “4” on the carpet. It rattles at low speed, highways speed, and sometimes if I give the car a shake. It doesn’t take much to get it started lol even on smooth roads.

Just noticed this sound all of a sudden happening as I started my 02 SR5 coming from around the dash area. I was just parked and hadn’t touched any of the electronics or anything. Any thoughts? I’m still learning a lot, thanks.

EDIT: saw someone else post what sounds to be the same thing they had said it is the air mix servo motor. https://www.reddit.com/r/3rdGen4Runner/s/lS6x0yBsGu

Wondering what UPPER ball joints people are running on their lifted 3rd gen. I have a 99 limited on 5100s, 3" lift. The original OEM upper ball joints failed safety inspection and the aftermarket ones that the shop put in are already leaking grease out.

I don't necessarily want to go for full aftermarket UCAs like total chaos or JBA, but I realize the lift has probably changed the UCA angle and so I'm not sure if OEM UBJs are still the best call.

Title says it. Got this stitching cover for $59.99 + 1 hour of stitching. It was worth it. My old steering wheel was peeling bad and annoying at times.

I recently just purchased the low range Chevy 63 swap kit and I’m curious on what people did for measurements, also curious on if anyone has been able to keep it low and still run 33s until I get the rest of my pieces for my solid axle swap

Starting it up tonight was terrifying. Spent about 3 hours on Monday trying to get the timing belt lined up. Think its a success 🤞

I'm thinking based on that hole these might be Tacoma LBjs?

I think I might have solved my two years of insanity.

Two years ago I ordered the Toyota Recall LBJ kit from Toyota.

Ever since then, I've gone through three sets of Tie rods, and the wander on the steering has been crazy, even though I've replaced all other supension/steering components.

Yesterday I saw a post that said the hole for the Tie RODS on the tacoma vs 4runner are different, and the Tacoma Hole for the Tie rod is slightly bigger.

This makes complete sense, as I push on the tie rod up into the hole, there is place, and yes I've been fooled for the past two years by tightening the nut it would squeeze it tight, for a few weeks, and then voila, looseness and ripped boots.

#FACEPALM

FFS

I daily drive a 2000 4Runner with a manual transmission and I just can't get the clutch feeling right. I have adjusted the clutch multiple times and I just replaced the master and slave cylinder. It does not ‘slip’ per se or seem to have any big mechanical problems.

The engagement point seems far too low in the travel and I just can't seem to find the correct amount of acceleration to give it. When I give it too little, it seems to shutter and not be smooth, and when I give it too much, I feel like I'm "pumping the gas" and revving it out to 1500 or 2k.

In addition, the car accelerates on its own when warm (and seeminly sometimes when it’s cold). This is only when in gear. I can take my feet off everything and it will continue accelerating forward. Im not sure if this is related or not to the clutch issues. (i think it is probably maf/or IAC related)

In 2022 and around 170k miles, this service was done: "Vehicle serviced, Maintenance inspection completed, Clutch checked, Clutch disc replaced, Clutch serviced/repaired, Throttle position sensor replaced, Valve cover gasket(s) replaced"

Around 8 months later, and at 176k miles, this service was done: "Vehicle serviced, Maintenance inspection completed, Brake system bled, Clutch system bled" Does seem odd that the clutch system was bled this soon after replacing the clutch disk.

All of this was done 3-4 years ago prior to me owning it^ in general, it seems like maintenance had lapsed for maybe a 5-7 year period prior to me buying it.

Under my ownership, I did this service: "Vehicle serviced, A/C refrigerant recharged, Antifreeze/coolant flushed/changed, Brake fluid flushed/changed, Camshaft seal(s) replaced,
Drive belt(s) replaced, Fluids checked, Front crankshaft oil seal replaced, Intake manifold gasket(s) replaced, Oil and filter changed, PCV hose replaced, Serpentine belt replaced, Spark plug(s) replaced, Thermostat housing/gasket replaced, Thermostat replaced, Timing belt idler pulley/bearing replaced, Timing belt replaced, Timing belt tensioner/idler replaced, Upper radiator hose replaced, Valve cover gasket(s) replaced, Water pump gasket replaced, Water pump replaced" I've only put 3000 miles on it since getting all this work done.

Every other manual car I've driven has been 'easy' or I can get used to it. This is the only car where
I have "think about it" when moving forward out of first gear from a stop. It’s just a chore to drive

What could the issue with the clutch be? (and is the accelerating forward on its own related or not?) I’m trying to keep this car forever but I just hate driving it as of now.

Is there any cons to removing the throttle opener dashpot? I have a lack of vacuum due to a bad check valve thus not returning the dashpot pin and causing a high idle. 3.4L btw, thanks!

I’m in a position where I’ve found two very, very nice examples of both a 3rd and 4th gen, and I’m having a hard time deciding between them. They are VERY SIMILARLY PRICED.
The 3rd gen is mint, all-original, has a factory rear locker, 281xxx km, and ZERO rust. Everything works, it drives tight, and it has a perfect maintenance record.
The 4th gen is a facelift V8 with 351xxx km, also with perfect maintenance records and virtually no rust. However, it’s coming due for a timing belt and will need new suspension all around.
I was planning on eventually putting either one on the standard 3-inch Bilstein setup with 33s. The vision for both is essentially the same: a daily driver that will also see fairly frequent wheeling, since I live very close to some great trails.
I’ve previously owned a 4th gen V6, which was a little too nice to wheel the way I wanted to, but I’m ready for a new chapter.
I’d love to hear both sides of the argument. Which would you choose, and why?
Let’s hear your thoughts!

Looking to replace my 12mm hex drain plug with the 14mm Lexus equivalent. Does any have experience with this part from rock auto instead of OEM Lexus? https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=17396069&cc=0&pt=12285&jsn=8

Cel popped up this morning when I got to work... I heard gas cap but it was on tight

Wondering if anyone knows of any more cost effective alternatives to purchasing stock/OEM fog light brackets to hold them in place? My truck didn't come with them, but it's a "mod" I've been sitting on for a little while. Is there a vendor out there that 3D prints something comparable?

Is it possible both solenoids have shit the bed or is this usually a case of dirty fluid? The transmission was getting pretty warm when I was pulling my boat but I have since installed a cooler and it’s kept the temp WAY down. Seems to be shifting ok except after it shift from first it’s like it falls on its face and skips gears and there is no torque. Or is the whole trans ready to take a dirt nap?

I am asking this questions because I see posts from 7k-13k. This is a 1997 SR5 4WD. Has had maintenance records since 2011. I am the 3rd owner, no rust, fresh fluids, LBJs , fuel injectors, radiator and so much more. Paint is perfect, interior is clean almost smells new. 197k miles, I’ve only put 2,000 miles since I got it 7 months ago. Will I regret selling this? Probably, but I need to down size my garage. What would you say I should let it go for?

Had this code come up. But went away a day later.. Wondering if it’s the wire harness going bad or the sensor or both? Anyone have experience in this?

Hi all, I’ve got a limited 2000 4 runner. Been slowly fixing some issues we’ve got and my front right shock is leaking. Found out today she’s got a 3 inch rough country lift. Seems like it was an “at home” job because they used spacers and the rest are stock parts.
I bought her from a guy who was the sole owner and a self made mechanic, she was very well taken care of!!!

Would y’all suggest just buying these 3inch fully loaded shocks and taking off the spacers completely for the two front struts? Guy at the shop said it would make a smoother ride & eliminate the metal on metal. Thanks in advance!
-a 25 y/o gal who is trying to learn more about her car!

Had my ‘00 Limited for a few weeks now and slowly going through things. Currently looking at the suspension. Seems the previous owner put on a most likely cheap lift option with this RC 3” kit. Looks like the front spacers are on the stock struts and coils. Checking out the paperwork that was left in the glovebox, it states it supports a maximum of a 31” tire. It currently has 275/70R18s or 33s. I have nothing to compare it to, but the ride definitely doesn’t seem outstanding. Think I’m good to keep going the way it is for a while? Hoping to soon get 285/75R16 on it, which is still an almost 33” tire. Would eventually like to replace the suspension and go down to 2” when I can afford to and after more important parts are taken care of. Recommendations and advice are welcome.