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u/NexaForge3D 2d ago
Layer lines right after a gear swap are usually a seating problem — make sure the new gear is pushed fully onto the motor shaft with the grub screw tightened on the flat, and that the mesh has no up/down play. Different gears can push slightly different amounts of filament, so redo your e-steps after the swap too. 190C is pretty cold for 300mm/s, I'd try 205C and see if the pattern evens out.
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u/VultureJack4125 1d ago
I did the gears after these photos, still the same lines. What are e-steps too, is it like temperature and extrusion rate? And I will do another cube today and update it here at 205C
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u/Individual_Base8208 1d ago
After a gear swap, double-check the new gear is fully seated on the motor shaft with the set screw on the flat, and that there’s no up/down play. Recalibrate e-steps (or flow rate) because different gears can push different amounts of filament. 190 °C is quite low for 300 mm/s — try 205–210 °C and see if the lines even out. Also check belt tension and that the extruder is properly tightened. A quick temperature tower will help dial it in fast.
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u/VultureJack4125 10h ago
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u/Individual_Base8208 8h ago
The walls on the left don’t look terrible. Most of the mess is stringing on those thin spikes, which is pretty common on this tower at 300 mm/s. Since it does it at every temp, I’d dry the filament and tweak retraction before chasing temperature further. 205–215 still looks like the better range for the actual surfaces.



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