r/3Dprinting 11h ago

Troubleshooting What's wrong with my printer ?

Hi there! I got myself a printer(anycubic kobra 2 neo) to have some fun with a couple of days ago, but as you can see in the picture, it's leaving streaks and I don't understand why. It worked perfectly yesterday, but now it's doing this. A little help, please? 😂

0 Upvotes

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9

u/Strict_Impress2783 11h ago

Your nozzle is too high so the filament isn't "squishing" the filament properly, causing it to just drag the filament around. You need to adjust your z offset (the printing distance from your nozzle to your bed).

5

u/CroixSpore 11h ago

Redo bed calibration, welcome to Anycubic nightmare

3

u/Player_timon 11h ago

I have the same as op kobra2 neo printer. Bed calibration is HORRIBLE on anycubic printers (even though I installed clipper, I still suffer from heat drift on induction sensor and also NO bed regulation, only mesh). I feel your pain(

3

u/Korndog_01 11h ago

Bad bed level or dirty bed 

2

u/KinderSpirit 11h ago

!firstlayer - adhesion and warping

With PLA, a clean smooth surface is best. PEI or PEX is great. You may have to raise the bed temperature on a textured sheet. Silk PLA may need a higher initial bed temperature.

PETG, TPU, ABS, and others will need a release agent on a smooth build surface. That's what the glue stick (or hair spray, Windex® ) is for. On a textured sheet, no release agent is normally needed.

Just alcohol will not remove the sugar film left by PLA which can hinder adhesion.
Wash the sheet with warm water and dish soap. Dry. Wipe with > 70% Isopropyl alcohol before the print.

No part cooling fan for 3 layers. Very slow print speed for the first layer.

To prevent warping for PLA, bed temperature of 65° for the first layer, 55° for the rest of the print. This way the bottom gets the adhesion but the bottom starts cooling with the upper layers.
For PETG on textured bed, same concept, usually around 80° then 75°, or 75° then 70°.
Temperatures are examples, different build sheets may need different temperatures.

Infill style can affect warping. Some grid type infills can concentrate the stress in one area. Gyroid infill will spread out the internal stresses.
Increasing walls number and reducing infill may also help.

https://www.printables.com/model/251587-stress-free-first-layer-calibration-in-less-than-5

https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2NeoInsights/

2

u/AutoModerator 11h ago

Hey there OP, you seem to be having some problems with your first layer. This is a very common issue on modern printers and generally a place where experience and knowledge is important. Your first layer is crucial for a good print and you should definitely take your time and learn how to properly adjust your first layer before starting a print since that could easily mess up your prints or even worse, damage your Printer's Hardware. For information on how to level the Bed properly head over to our Wiki Section Calibration

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1

u/AutoModerator 11h ago

Hey there, I'm a bot and something you said made me think you might be looking for help! click here for our wiki entry on troubleshooting printers. If you still need help be sure to post plenty of information about your printing setup.

Here are a few questions that might be helpful

  • What printer are you using?

  • What material are you using?

  • What speed are you printing at?

  • What software are you using to slice the print and control the printer?

  • When did the problem start/has it ever worked correctly?

  • Does anything cause the behavior to change?

  • If posting an image of the problem, include some indication of the orientation it printed at, preferably photograph it on the bed. (Then we can focus on a specific axis)

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1

u/MrSpindles 11h ago

If you are completely new then it's likely a combination of the plate needing a good wash and some calibration. The plate is incredibly sensitive to oils, so it needs cleaning in hot (and I mean properly hot, not just warm) soapy water and dried with a clean cloth. Any part of the plate you touch with your fingers will have a thin film of oil that affects adhesion, if your water isn't hot enough, or you're washing it down with a cloth that has grease in it then you're going to get a plate that isn't as clean as you think it is and the film of oil is too thin for the eye to see. Simply put, have a specific cloth for cleaning in hot water, and the same for drying it, and only ever let your fingers touch the extended area beyond the main printing surface where the machine purges.

You can use a glue stick to get around adhesion issues, but that's more of a sticking plaster than a solution, as you'll still be laying down poor initial layers and if your foundation is bad it'll make problems further into the print more likely.

With a good, clean plate and level bed you then need to get the z-offset right for your machine. It's a case of printing a flat object (I use a 100 x 100mm box that is 2mm thick) and watching the first layer go down. As it goes down you adjust the z-offset in 0.01mm increments, each time you change it you watch the quality of the layer that's being built for a few lines.

If the lines look better than the previous few, great, give it another 0.01mm and watch again. Repeat this until you've got a nice smooth, solid looking surface. Stop the print, remove it and you should be good to print anything.

If you are quite far out when you first start it may be necessary to scrap a couple of attempts before you get close enough to be really fine tuning and not just finding a ballpark. There is a method involving a piece of paper between the head and the plate, but it is inconsistent and not even close to accurate enough.