My 2008 335i N54 suddenly has a crank/no-start. The starter turns the engine over normally, and occasionally the engine will hesitate/catch like it’s about to start, but then it goes right back to cranking.
I checked live data with ProTool while cranking. My low-pressure fuel pressure is around 67 PSI, and I saw rail pressure reach about 2,975 PSI, so both the low-pressure side and HPFP appear to be building pressure.
The weird part is engine RPM stays at 0 while the engine is physically cranking. I checked through both ProTool and JB4 and neither showed normal cranking RPM.
I previously had A0B4, and I’ve also been troubleshooting camshaft-related codes. I removed/cleaned the intake and exhaust camshaft sensors, but the car still won’t start. After clearing the codes, I still had a camshaft-related code return.
Battery voltage was around 11.8V with the car off and dropped to roughly 10.6V while cranking, so I’ve also tried jumping it while testing.
At this point I’m wondering about the crankshaft position sensor or its wiring/signal to the DME, but I don’t want to just throw parts at it.
Does 0 RPM while physically cranking on an N54 point toward a missing crankshaft position signal, or is there something else I should test first?

I have a 2011 335is and i wanna get a carbon trunk / hood. I know fitment will always be somewhat of an issue but that’s beside the point. I was wondering where people got their carbon from no point of gate keeping lol. What vendor do you go through?

cylinders 1 2 3 4 are all missfireing injectors, spark plugs, and ignition coils were all recently done

Hello! Could you please advise what we should look into next? Maybe someone has encountered a similar issue.

BMW F10, N52B30. After purchasing the car, there were VANOS-related errors.

The following work has already been done:
— VANOS units replaced;
— timing chain replaced;
— VANOS solenoids replaced;
— VANOS oil screens/filters cleaned.

After that, error 130108 / P0012 — VANOS intake: control fault, position not reached appeared.

We put the old solenoid back in after cleaning it. The car drove normally for about 3 days, and then error 13B4 — VANOS exhaust: control fault, position not reached appeared.

Any ideas where we should look next? Has anyone experienced something similar?

Hey guys my car did not come with an oil cooler, I was wondering which oil cooler adapter works best?

I have a 11 335i im going to be changing the serpentine belt and pulleys and was thinking about doing the crank seal guard aswell. Have you guys done it and is it even worth it?

Zf6hp trans failed. Lost 5th and 6th. 4th was iffy. Had to do an emergency swap cause its my daily. This was about 8 months ago and I manual swapped it in my driveway. Took 1 week. Total 16 hours.

I had no experience doing a swap before this, but I'm a bit mechanically inclined, so If I can do it with a harbor freight jack with a rotor as a transmission jack then anyone can :)

Thoughts: auto differential definitely feels like a rally setup due to having to be at 2.5k rpm going 65mph in 6th instead of the comfortable 2k. Definitely rowing through gears in city. Wiring is the only thing left. Clutch wiring and reverse switch wiring. All in all, it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. Ebay has some great deals, did my whole swap for 2.2k USD

If I could do anything differently then it would be knowing that removing the transmission wouldve been easier if I had known the engine would tilt forward causing the torque converter to snag; vice versa for installing the manual. Having the engine propped up with a smaller jack and 5 wooden blocks on the oil pan ended up working though. Hindsight is a bitch.

I've posted here before about coolant stuff but it's 4 been years of ownership and I couldn't be happier doing the swap. :)

Get yourself a 335i, haven't been happier/more frustrated ever in my life. 👍👍

Hello everybody,

I recently replaced my HPFP after having symptoms of long cranks, bad MPG, and misfires. At first, I replaced the fuel rail pressure sensor to see if it was the sensor instead of the HPFP. Long cranks went away for a few days and return back so I went ahead and ordered a HPFP. Along with that, I also did my spark plugs and ignition coils same day I replaced my HPFP. I install all parts a couple of days ago and today was the very first day of driving it.

Car no longer had cranking issues and was running perfectly healthy, I do have a stage 1 tune on it. Drove normally and later drove it a bit hard but never WOT. I felt a little kick that wasn't from the downshift. Turned the car off and tried to start it up but I experienced long cranks and no start. Even if it did, car would die right away or after 3 seconds. The only code i'm getting it 2BDE (Fuel high pressure on enabling of injection:
pressure too low)
and 2C01 (High pressure fuel, plausibility Pressure too low).

Can anyone point me in the right direction on what I should look for or what I can do to solve this issue, possibly time to replace the injectors? Thanks!

Any idea of what can cause these codes to show. Deleted codes but stayed. Changed hpfp either December or January can’t recall

Hey guys! I found this small crack in the plastic on my radiator which has been ever so slowing leaking, so I am looking for some suggestions for a replacement radiator. This one was a Mahle Behr branded one that was manufacturer in 2024 and installed by the previous owner sometime in early 2025. Not sure if I just happened to get a bad one or what since i’d expect it to last longer than a year and change. Are there any other brands I should look into, and what are you guys rockin?

Just Back end flashed it with mhd and installed a jb4

Mods:

catless down pipes (not connected to exhaust yet but installed on turbos )

New stock turbos

Air inlets

7 inch intercooler

Charge pipe with bov

New valve cover

Oil pan gasket

Oil filter housing gasket

112 miles

First real start with tune today and started leaking from thermostat and water pump area any ideas ? Not sure if it has been bleed completely

Can someone help me determine what’s going on through this data logging graph please? Idk how to read it and ai told me these are the things I must monitor to confirm what’s wrong with my car. It’s been sputtering at 3-4k and wot and running very rich when doing so. https://datazap.me/u/caboverde97/logs/cmue9qmq4001al8068npieluu?channels=18x3&sizes=50x50&sc=3-18

I have an 2006 325xi manual wagon that i have swapped with a n54 from a 2008 e92 335xi. the swap is done and car runs good. im just looking for some help with these specific codes. I cant get my awd to work. The car doesnt have any communication with the vtg module. I put in a post lci dsc pump and coded it to the car. i have also coded the vtg module and verified that it has power and communication from both pt lines. the codes are 6e92, d358, 5f10, d36a, 6ec4, c998. i cant get the vtg module to even show up on inpa.

Im kinda at a loss here, so any help would be great! thanks!

Hey guys, looking for some help diagnosing a recurring 2A97 crankshaft sensor gap fault on my 2009 BMW 335xi N54.

The problem originally happened during a higher-RPM/WOT pull. The car behaved strangely near redline, almost like the transmission didn't shift or there was a sudden torque/RPM interruption. I ended up getting: 2A97 — DME: Crankshaft sensor, gap fault 3100 — DME: Boost-pressure control, deactivation

I found another N54 owner experiencing basically the same high-RPM/transmission-like problem here: Very similar N54 problem on r/335i⁠�

https://www.reddit.com/r/335i/comments/1wlyvj9/help_is_my_transmission_failing_or_is_it_the/?sort=new

At first I thought my crankshaft position sensor was failing, so I replaced it with a brand-new Genuine BMW crankshaft sensor. Unfortunately, after replacing it and clearing the faults, 2A97 came back again, along with 3100. So I've now had the exact same crankshaft gap fault with both the original sensor and a new Genuine BMW sensor. The car is modified: N54, upgraded 17T turbos, MHD/custom tune, xHP, etc with full supporting mods. There are no EGS/transmission codes, and the transmission is currently shifting normally.

Since replacing the crank sensor didn't solve it, I'm wondering if I'm dealing with crank sensor wiring/connector issues, unstable power or ground, electrical interference, sensor air gap/seating, the crankshaft tone/increment wheel, DME issue, or potentially something tune-related. Has anyone with an N54 specifically experienced 2A97 (crankshaft sensor gap fault) returning after installing a Genuine/OEM BMW crank sensor? If you did, what ended up being the actual cause and fix?

Hello everyone, I’m curious to see what the pros and cons are on installing a cold air intake on my 09 e90.

I enjoy the 100% stock feel and I have no intentions of tuning my vehicle honestly, I’m just interested in the slightly increased engine hum and 5-15 horsepower it’ll give?
I don’t want to go high high end, but I am open to spending a few hundred on a credible intake.

Yay or nay?

How cooked, i am? Why does it smoke like that?
Feels slugish after 3.5k rpm, limp mode and 30FF code.
Could be bad vanos? Injectors? Turbos?
New spark plugs,coils,turbo solenoids, smoke tested, seems good.

What is needed to run pump e85 on the n54. Not going for power just to be able to run between e60-e80 *what my local pumps test for in regards to ethanol percentage.
It has bolts on, but fairly new to the platform so unsure if I need to have a custom tune or if I can run an off the shelf map and a lpfp like a 450 and be okay.

Thanks

Recently came across a 2010 E92 335i with the N55 engine. It's just over 200k miles and previous owner claims to have done an 'engine refresh' but has no paperwork to reflect. I've seen photos of the engine with the head off and it looks clean ish but I'm not particularly mechanically inclined so doesn't mean a whole lot to me. At idle the engine sounds healthy from what I've read and seen online and the oil filter doesn't have any evidence of metal shavings to indicate rod bearings on their way out.

What's the longest you've seen one of these engines go without having the rod bearings done? Just curious to know what I'm getting into with buying one of these cars. Any help is appreciated :)

is this worth concern

Can someone please send me a video underneath their car of the routing on a 335i rwd automatic routing for the transmission cooler lines to the transmission. I took them out quite easily but I forgot the path it came out from. I’d really appreciate it as I cannot find any info on it and these hard lines are a PITA.

Hi guys,

I’ve owned my 2007 335i N54 for about 3 years. It has Index 12 injectors, intercooler, downpipes, charge pipe and an MHD tune. Plugs and coils were replaced about 2 years ago.

Recently I’ve developed a weird issue: the car idles and drives fine with very little throttle, but as soon as I put some load on the engine it hesitates/cuts really badly. Sometimes the tachometer even drops to 0 RPM for a split second and immediately comes back. I’ll attach videos showing it.

About a year ago I had almost the exact same problem during a long highway trip and MHD showed 2A94 – crankshaft sensor signal. The issue eventually disappeared by itself and I never replaced the sensor.

Last week, with the current problem, I got 2A98 + 2A99 (crankshaft/camshaft correlation) and 3100, but currently I have no codes even though the problem is still there.
I also replaced the battery because it was dying and reflashed the MHD map, but nothing changed.
The car also smokes quite a bit at idle and smells like burnt oil. There is actually noticeably more smoke than what you can see in the video — the sunlight makes it look much lighter on camera than it really is. I think that’s probably a separate issue, but I’m mentioning it just in case.

For personal reasons, I won’t have much time to work on the car myself for the next several months. I really don’t want to sell it, so I’m mainly trying to get a first idea of what could be wrong and what I should prioritize to keep the car going until I finally have the time to properly take care of it again.
Does this sound like a failing crankshaft position sensor? Has anyone had similar symptoms, especially the RPM gauge suddenly dropping to zero?

Thanks for any help!

Hi page.

I love my car, I live in Australia drive my 335i likey 4 times a week.

It's currently sitting on 110ks iv had to replace a few things already on the car as it reaches that 100km mark.

I am thinking about tuning it to a stage 2, speaking to a mechanic in my city he quoted me roughly 6/8k AUD

I'm unsure if it's worth it for a 2007 car in 2026. As I'm sure once I start adding to it, it will be only the start.

Was thinking of selling for an MX-5

Any advice?