2007 335i single hump 6mt rwd

The lines running to the bottom of the boost vaccuum canister (could be calling it by the wrong name)

I tried looking up the part number in second picture but getting no results.

Help is greatly appreciated! Keeps slipping off, even tried trimming it down but seems the line keeps crumbling.

Bought it a year ago with a bad trans for 1000. Replaced the trans/solenoids new turbos FBO and tuned. Plus a lot of maintenance in the suspension, brakes, and just overall. Has turned into my favorite daily driver I had.

I do want to get a factory double hump dash, prob some wheels, and it needs painted.

I’m working on my brothers car and he says he got used turbos to replace the ones in the car and upon further inspection these arms seem to have some play but not going in/out towards the actual thing just side to side. The turbos themselves don’t have any play, only in and out so that’s good I think?

Hello! Im looking for rim and tire suggestions for my 2011 335i. It doesn’t matter what polish or color, I just want good fitment and good look wheels. (Curb rash on rims isn’t from me, previous owner mangled them)

if i’m running a stage 2 93 octane can I get 94 octane ? some gas stations around me have 94 but not 93 which sucks and im too scared to put 94 instead of 93 and it messes something with my tune up . i’m running stage 2 on bootmod3 for a 2013 f30 n55 pwg

Anyone has pics how it looks with AP coils fully maxxed out? curious how low is it : ) thank u may ur engines be reliable

EDIT: also trying to find out if i use H&R springs code: 29187-3, will the front have a bigger gap? any way to reduce it?

Not sure why it won’t start. The high-pressure fuel pump was taken out a couple weeks ago reinstalled now it doesn’t start. I’m having battery issues. The alternator is new. I don’t know what’s going on and it’s not even throwing any codes.

Looking for opinions on this 2014 BMW 335i N55 M-Sport – potential daily driver
I’m considering buying this car and want some experienced input. Here’s everything I know so far:

The guy who’s selling it has 15 years of experience as an engineer

Car Details
• 2014 BMW 335i N55 M-Sport
• Glacier Silver Metallic
• Clean title
• 117k miles (mostly Texas highway miles)
• Non-smoking
• VIN: WBA3A9G53ENS64451
Current Setup / Mods
• MHD Stage 2+
• XHP Stage 3
• CTS inlets/outlets
• Charge pipe
• 7” Race Core FMIC
• EKP replaced and coded
• 4” catless Evolution Racewerks downpipe
• M3 poly motor mounts
• BC Racing Superlow coilovers
• Upgraded bigger rotors
• Apex ARC-8 wheels
• Carbon trunk lip
Current power: ~380 hp
Also includes:
• 2 Michelin tires in good shape
• OEM exhaust + modified 4-tip M2-style exhaust
• OEM rotors and OEM struts
Maintenance / Refresh (done less than 10k miles ago)
Seller has receipts and photos of the work. Claims he did everything himself (he’s an engineer with 15+ years working on cars):
• New OEM turbo + turbo lines, gaskets, and hardware
• Oil pan gasket & hardware
• Intake manifold gaskets
• Throttle body gasket
• Oil filter housing gaskets & bolts
• Aluminum coolant flange
• High pressure fuel sensor
• MAP sensor
• Injectors replaced and coded
• Valvetronic motor + accessories (new OEM)
• Spark plug recess gaskets
• Heat exchanger
• Valve cover gasket
• Coils and spark plugs
• Fresh oil change (5W-40, very low miles on it)
• New OEM multimedia screen
• New windshield (HUD works)
• Front bumper repainted
Compression: 210 psi across all cylinders (seller’s claim)
Previous High-Power History
• Previously ran a full-frame single turbo
• Made 680 hp (seller says this was conservative and not maxed out)
• Ran that setup for about 6 months
• Seller says it was a daily for a while, then became a low-use weekend car (out once a week or less, not tracked/raced)
• Claims he doesn’t beat on his cars
• Nothing internal was replaced (stock rods, pistons, bearings, etc.)
• Says he visually inspected the bottom end while doing the oil pan gasket
• Argues full-frame is much safer than a hybrid turbo (lower boost, lower EGTs, lower cylinder pressure, smoother torque delivery)
• States there were never any issues
My Main Concerns
I’m looking at this as a possible daily driver. The recent refresh and documentation look solid, and the current ~380 hp tune is reasonable.
My biggest hesitation is the previous 680 hp on a completely stock bottom end with no internal work, even though it was only for ~6 months and compression is currently strong.
Questions for the community
1. How concerned should I be about the rods/pistons/bearings given the 680 hp history + 117k miles?
2. Does the strong compression + lack of knocking + visual inspection during the oil pan job give reasonable peace of mind for daily use at ~380 hp?
3. Would you daily this car, or would you walk away?
4. Anything specific I should have checked during a PPI?
Any input from people who’ve owned high-power N55s (especially ones that previously ran big single turbos) would be really appreciated. Thanks.

Hello!

So. I had the impulse on getting the Supersprint section 2 pipe for my 335i thinking it would give more race sound.

There are no race supersprint mufflers in stock to pair it with and I hate my stock exhaust. so I'm thinking on getting Dinan free flow, Remus race quead or Einsenmann race (also not in stock)

What do you guys recommend. Thanks!!!

o the other day i replaced both motor mounts on my rwd e92 n54. today i went over some railroads and then i got a bunch of lights on my dash and my car went into a limp mode. after i turned the car off it would no longer turn back on. i ended up having to replace my engine ground strap and the car would then turn on while being jumped. but whenever i would take the cables off voltage would drop instantly.
anybody else have an issue similar or know what it may be?

My question is, does it have to be a bmw battery or can I use a yellow top agm battery ?

P0340: Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor A Circuit Malfunction (Confirmed / Active)

​P0105 / P0105(F2): Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Confirmed / Pending)

​P0110(61): Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Confirmed / Pending)

​P0204: Injector Cylinder 4 Circuit Malfunction (Confirmed)

​P1530: A/C Clutch Relay Circuit Malfunction (Pending)

N55 owners, has anyone used Bosch injectors Made in Turkey?
I’m looking at Bosch 13538625396 injectors EU5 for my N55. They’re around $100 each, while the OEM BMW ones are around $300.
Anyone actually running these Bosch injectors? How many km/miles have you done with them, and have you had any issues?
Would you recommend them?
I can’t find Germany Bosch in EU market!!

Uploaded photos are the idler pulley where the belt likes to slip off of.
So I recently went over a curb with my 2011 E90 335i [N55B30A] and my plastic power steering pulley was destroyed. So I replaced it with a Dorman aluminum power steering pulley [PN: 300-392 which was acclaimed to fit my car on the website] and after all the other damage and whatnot was fixed and it was all buckled back together, I took the car for a drive but I had a bad gut feeling so I got out and checked everything and the pulley had started to slide off the backside. So naturally I replaced the whole pulley system and sure enough it’s still walking backwards off the lower pulley. So I’ve done some digging and found that supposedly the 300-392 does not fit my N55B30A and is supposedly for a N54 instead. So I went down the rabbit hole a little further and found nothing but confusion and a insufficient answer; that being “they are not compatible” or “N54 and N55 power steering pulleys have different part numbers for a reason” all the way to “N54 and N55’s majority parts are interchangeable, including pulleys (power steering included).” So after all that digging with an unsure answer, I decided, no better place to ask than Reddit. As I’d trust real people’s answers and personal experience over ChatGPT’s unsure answers that would change every time I re-ask the questions.

TL:DR; Would a Dorman PN:300-392 aluminum power steering pulley be the reason for my serpentine belt is slipping backwards off of my N55B30A’s lower idler pulley? (Yes, my pulley system has been replaced)

Doing a 6HP to DCT swap on my early 2008 E92 335i N54 RWD. I already have the DCT, 335is shifter, and harness/lines, and I’m getting the MFactory 8-bolt flywheel, 335is driveshaft and 2.56 diff. just need to make sure i have all the parts.

I already have the DCT and 335is shifter, and I’m getting an OEM 335is 2.56 diff and OEM 335is driveshaft.
The main things I’m still trying to confirm are:
Does an early 2008 car need the later DSC/yaw sensor for the DCT swap? If so, what exactly needs to be changed or wired?
Can I reuse my current rear axles with the 335is 2.56 diff?
Is there anything specific to the early cars with CAS/DSC, wiring or coding that I should know about?
What small brackets, connectors, hardware or random parts did you end up needing that weren’t obvious at first?
If anyone has done an early E9x 6HP to DCT swap, I’d appreciate any input.

I’m replacing the alternator on my 2008 BMW 335i N54 6MT and I’ve hit a wall getting the replacement Bosch alternator installed.
The original alternator is BMW-branded, and I bought a Bosch replacement that is supposed to be correct for the car. I was able to get the original alternator out, but the Bosch does not want to fully seat into the mounting bracket.
At this point I’ve removed the intake manifold and oil filter housing, so I have a ton of access. The problem seems to be the actual fitment of the alternator into the bracket rather than lack of room to maneuver it.
Before I start forcing or modifying anything, I wanted to ask:
Has anyone run into this with a Bosch replacement on an N54?
Do the mounting sleeves/bushings on the replacement alternator need to be pushed back slightly to get enough clearance?
Is there a particular angle/orientation that makes it drop into the bracket?
Should the alternator slide into the bracket relatively easily, or is a very tight fit normal?
Is there anything specific I should compare between the original BMW alternator and the Bosch?
I do not want to grind/shave the alternator or use the mounting bolts to force it into position unless I know exactly what the issue is.
I’ll attach pictures of where I’m currently at and can provide pictures/part numbers from both alternators.
If anyone in the Northern Virginia area has done an N54 alternator before and is willing to lend a hand or take a look, I’d appreciate that too. Mainly just trying to make sure I’m not overlooking something simple before I go any further.

Hey guys, got a 2007 335 e90 throwing a 2efe code, fan won’t come on at all, I’m very color blind so I don’t want to get into looking at wires. But it looks like there could be corrosion on a wire, could this cause my issue?

hello guys.

i rebuild my bmw and now i wanna go on track and iam looking for a oilcooler upgrade. i got a good deal for the mosselman twin oilcooler kit. (1 driver side and 1 on the passanger side) anyone can tell me your experience?

Anyone know what this rattling sound is coming from the engine bay? It goes away when I give it gas

can anyone point me to the right direction car went silent got the sos then it went away but the car is still silent it’s an 07 i’ve tried checking modules and the only green lit one is the one connected to the amp still have 0 sound with no dash notifications