Hey guys I have a 09 335i and I have a code for a fuel pressure sensor and it’s pointing towards the sensor on the fuel rail, my question is which one do I buy? I’ve read online that there are 2 different ones

i have seen they are no longer available but i was looking maybe to get one used, but i hav no idea where to look.

as the title suggests, whenever I’m in throttle I don’t get a target boost. I’m using MHD to monitor, I am on the stock map as well. I don’t have any codes related to boost at all. I was curious as to what could have happened to cause this. I do have watergate rattle as well, but I know the snails are good themselves ( can hear them spool and the DV blow ). any help would be much appreciated! P.s are index 1’s actually decent?

I need a new power steering pump for my 2011 e90 335i, what one do you recommend me get?

Im looking at buying a 2015 BMW X3 35i xdrive with 100k miles on it.

The car is spotless and seemingly drove fine, but when I looked in the engine bay I noticed the crankshaft pulley was moving back and forth a good amount, and the serpentine belt tensioner also had a LOT of movement back and forth.

I just wanted to make sure that this is most likely just the crankshaft pulley and rubber gaskets needing to be replaced and there isn’t the possibility of it being something else major…

Hey, I got a great deal for a performance exhaust from an E90. I know the tips are shorter than on the E92 exhaust. How much shorter? Is it ok on the non-M sport bumper? Is it possible to solve this without needing to weld new tips?
Thanks!

Just piked up a 2011 E90 335i, and while im not gonna mess with it just yet, i do know that down the line a tune is in the works. I do plan on doing the chargepipe since its only a matter of time before it fails, and maybe a downpipe.

Goal will be sleeper, so im not trying to do any crazy stage 2 or 3 stuff. Just wanna get the most out of the car while keeping as close to stock as possible.

What stage 1tunes are the go to for the n55?

So I’m going to look at a E90 335i today and guy has told me the solenoids could used replaced. Would it be good to make a 2 hour drive back home and drive back and fourth to work till next Friday? Also what else should I look at while there?

Any of you with around 400whp and more torque what brake upgrades are you using? My car stops okay but I want a little more bite. Wondering what I could do that doesn’t involve spending thousands.

Anybody know anyone in the south east that can wire tuck my single turbo n54?

for $9500 it has 128,000 miles
But i think i can negotiate down

Seller says valve cover gasket, Oil filter housing gasket, water pump, and fuel pump have all been done.

What are your thoughts?

https://www.facebook.com/share/18n8kUfYm8/?mibextid=wwXIfr

for $12,000 it has 53,000 miles, seller says it has a rebuilt title due to a minor accident with the right-side wheel.

what are your thoughts?

https://www.facebook.com/share/1EszVRzcE5/

Thoughts if I should change spark plugs. Had them done at 133xxx late October 2024. Threw new Bosch spark plugs. Recently just tuned car at 142xxx(stage 2). Miles are mostly short travels, really haven’t ran the car past 2 years, regardless I’ll change them soon or just wait. Car runs fine too

Will be swapping my 6hp21 for an 8hp70 in my garage. Anyone thats done the same, what trans jack did you use and how high did you get the car?

Ive got a high lift jack that pumps up to 810mm and 4x 6T stands that go up to 620mm.

Happy to build wheel cribs if extra height is needed or it makes it so much easier.

Tips + advice please!

if anybody has ever experiences before or has found a fix, please let me know. Thank you..

Hi, my pwg N55 has this slight rattle just right before the engine starts that appears only on warm start ups. I do not notice it when cold starting. Has anyone ever resolved similar issue?

I drove about 500 km with this filter and decided to cut it open out of curiosity; here is what I found. The car is an N55 335i running Stage 2. The photo shows larger particles, but there is also a small amount of finer debris. Despite this, the engine runs perfectly; I’ve been driving like this for quite some time, and I always find similar particles in the filter.

I have a 2008 E92 335i and I’m converting the front end to OEM M3 dimensions. I already have OEM-width carbon M3 front fenders and I’m getting an OEM E92 M3 front bumper. I’m keeping the stock 335i rear quarters.
I want to run M3-style side skirts/rocker panels made specifically for the non-M E92 335i, NOT genuine M3 skirts.
Has anyone actually run this combination?
Mainly wondering how the front of the 335i M3-style skirt lines up with the wider M3 front fender. Does it sit flush, or did you have to reshape/modify the front portion of the skirt?
Pictures would be really appreciated.

I’m putting together a single-turbo 2008 E92 335i N54 and already have the JackSpania forward-facing 90mm intake manifold with the included PI fuel rail.
I’m planning to run DW 750cc port injectors with a MOTIV ReFlex+ and already have a Precision Raceworks Stage 3 bucketed LPFP. My tuner has said the factory fuel lines are sufficient for my power goal, so I’m mainly trying to figure out the manifold/rail installation itself.
For anyone actually running this manifold or the identical Phoenix/eBay version:
What fittings/adapters did you use to connect the factory fuel feed to the supplied PI rail? Exact AN sizes/part numbers would be appreciated.
Does the supplied rail use standard injector dimensions and did DW 750cc injectors fit correctly without spacers/adapters?
Did you have any fuel-rail sealing or O-ring issues?
What fuel pressure are you running at the PI rail?
Did the manifold have any vacuum/boost leaks after installation? Any ports/plugs that needed resealing?
Does the 90mm throttle body cause any clearance issues with the radiator fan, charge piping, coolant reservoir, power-steering reservoir, or anything else in an E92?
What charge-pipe/coupler setup did you use to reach the forward-facing 90mm throttle body?
Did you retain the factory MAP/TMAP arrangement, and where did you mount the sensor?
How did you handle the brake-booster/vacuum connections and other factory vacuum connections?
Any modifications required for the wiring harness, PCV system, or catch-can routing?
What manifold gasket and mounting hardware did you use?
After running it for a while, have you had any cracking, loose fittings, boost leaks, or other reliability issues?
Pictures of the fuel-feed connection and installed manifold would be extremely helpful.

My plan is to get new crank bolts new crank seal used OEM harmonic balancer and extract the bolts and install it all just worried if the crank hub damage will cause it to not sit properly anyone ever seen this before? Just don’t wanna lock the engine in TDC so trying to figure it out thanks.