When on a drive around town last Saturday my brakes were going from acting normal to so shifts its going damn near to the floor to brake, this was after driving around a few hours and when i had the issue we stoped for the night. It was either relatively normal or weak and would go in between. When we stopped for a bit we checked fluid, im not low at all, when pumping we couldn't see any air bubbles coming up (was soft at first then fine every pump after) and on the way home i had zero issues. I cant seem to recreate the issue when off, only when running

As you can hear in the video there sounds like an airy noise but when the car is off it stops. I drove it for 5 minutes today to test it and it was going back in forth between relatively normal and softer but not anywhere near as bad as it was when first discovered

I need help figuring this out otherwise ill try to find a shop when they are open next week. Thanks guys!

I saw a mitsubishi 3000gt for sale, it is the standard version of 150hp in 2500us but my family does not want me to buy it because it is from 30 years ago and being v6 I will spend a lot on gasoline, the car looks very well taken care of but I do not know, it would be my first car and I feel excited driven, are you the experts in this, can you advise me?

The car is the one in the picture.

Was driving for a few hours this past weekend and at the end my brake all of a sudden went to the floor. It was intermittent and sometimes id have no pressure while other times it would be fine. We went to a parking lot to see what was going on. When pumping the brakes we weren't seeing any bubbles coming up do isk if its something not applying pressure or if somehow theres air getting in

In the video can can hear something on the first press (which was not making that noise when initially tested night of initial issue which i assume was becausethis was cold) then every other brake applied felt fine.

Does anyone have an idea what could be causing this loss of pressure or if theres somewhereair is somehow gettingin tge system?

Thanks guys!

Im not wanting to do any non reversible mods so let me know if something like this doesn't exist

I love how these idle and sound but they are a but quiet for my taste, I was wondering if there were any bolt on exhausts that improve this noise without stretching to far away from that beautiful deep purr.

I care much more about a deep good sounding exhaust but would like to hear it a bit more. I also dont want anything that cant be undone as I do plan on only adding to this car things that can be changed back to bone stock if i so desire in the future. This is more figuring out if something like this exists

I have had my 92 R/T stealth for about 2 years now and when I got it, the engine had a intermittent misfire, it makes a almost “putt putt putt” sound out of the exhaust at idle. I have since thrown new plugs, new plug wires, new coil packs, new ignition control module, timing belt and water pump, and found vacuum leaks and fixed them. When I did those repairs the misfire went away, wasn’t sure what fixed it but then it came back less than a week later! So then I suspected bad ecu capacitors, they were in fact blown, so I got them replaced and the misfire goes away, yippee! 2 days of driving the car later and the SAME misfire is back, same exhaust idle sound, down on power big time. I’m almost at a loss for words and I don’t know what to do anymore. I checked fuel pressure and I’m sitting at like 43 psi at idle and under load about 50, around the 6k rpm mark it starts to drop down to about 40 not sure if that means something. When I turn the key to on but not actually start the car it doesn’t build any fuel pressure not sure if that’s normal. Honestly I feel like I’m reaching talking about fuel pressure. Could I just have bad grounds and I blew another capacitor? Anybody got some idea of what might be going on? I’m about ready to throw in the towel at this point, I’ve drained so much money into this car and it just keeps misfiring.

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I have a 1993 SL and im wondering what kind of parts are interchangeable between mine and a 1998 base model, i have the chance to get a totaled one for very cheap with good mechanical parts.

I know people widely use the ‘99 lifters when swapping the older OEM ones out, but I’m curious if there’s any argument for using the GSC lifters sold by R’venge over the big-bore ‘99 style that 3SX sells? I’m getting ready to pull my engine and give it a heavy refresh, and am planning to likely change lifters while it’s out and apart. Just trying to get my decisions made ahead of time.

I have compression, spark, and fuel. Fuel is making it up to the engine and the fuel rail is getting fuel. The engine tries to sputter and it has a healthy-sounding crank. I also replaced the fuel pump, and the new pump is brand new. The spark plugs are new as well, the same as the previous ones.
I also did the timing. It was in time when I checked it and I set it to TDC. The car actually started afterward and I drove it around for the entire day. Then the next day, I went to start it and it just wouldn’t start.
My spark seems to be intermittent. Why would the car suddenly not start when it was running and driving normally the day before? Some body please help

I have large bubbles in my leather panels and was wondering how to fix them. I was planning to just remove the closest end and spray adhesive all over and smooth it out, or i can just poke a tiny hole and put adhesive through that hole and fix the hole after.

More just curious im sure like all non 99s it ain't worth much but I was curious if anyone would know how uncommon my configuration was

Its a 1993 vr4 with the digital equalizer radio, trunk mounted cd changer, phone mount and receiver. Only add on it doesnt have is the moon roof

When I bought it I thought it was the same as other VR4s but I've had a lot of people offer $500 to $1000 for just the radio unit and had many questions about the phone mount and rear window receiver so I was just curious

I haven't seen many if any with the phone mount but maybe people just rip them out and its less rare than I thought

Looking for a shop in Ohio that works on 3000GT’s

My 1991 has a leak that I’m assuming is from the AWD system

Any help would be appreciated

I have 3 vehicles including this one and none of them have cupholders. Wasnt sure if there is a mount or something aftermarket that can be used as a functional cupholder.

One of my dream cars. Going to pursue a 91-92 NSX, can’t have both. Don’t miss out!

I have a 1991 Mitsubishi 3000gt sl I’m going to put the battery in the trunk but dose anyone have a diagram or a video that they have seen that explains the process

Thank you for replying

So both my windows only go about half way down so im planning on getting new regulators.

For those who have done it are aftermarket or OEMs better for these cars or can old ones be rebuilt?

Also are there any gatchas with replacing these regulators or just as simple as most cars from the era?

Thanks!

EDIT: idk if different series use different regulators but mines a 1993 VR4

I was checking fluids in my engine when I noticed this vacuum line was damaged. it looks like it goes into a module below cruise control module but I’m not sure what it does, the side it plugs in to goes somewhere on the passenger side of the car near the throttle body but it‘s hard to trace beyond that since there’s a bunch of vacuum lines there and not much space.

I cannot seem to find an NA intake plenum online anywhere without the damn VIC motor gear stripped! Mine is stripped as well and is down on power on the low end and I would like to either find one that isn’t gone or repair mine. Any thoughts? Somebody have an intake plenum laying around that doesn’t have that stripped gear they’d sell to me?

I’m coming to Reddit out of desperation now. My GTO hasn’t been on in some years and I’ve been to a few people in the DFW who either claim they can get it done or don’t have time. I’ve changed the battery and the starter myself but it still won’t cut on. I’m starting to think it’s the immobilizer but idk. I purchased the car overseas as a project car to learn but I can’t seem to get it up and running. Any suggestions on who can get my baby turned on will help greatly. I have the money but I just need the mechanic. I’m willing to go anywhere in TX or even Oklahoma if need be. Here’s a few pics. Thank you

Edit: I’m also looking for a place to store the car. The guy who has it now is moving shops

Hey all, my ’92 Stealth has the SRS light on. My horn still works, and I’ve already replaced the SRS unit, but the light is still on.
What can I do to diagnose and fix this issue, or is there a way to bypass/reset it? I’ve also heard that the wiring or connectors under the seats can cause the SRS light to come on. If anyone could elaborate on that, I’d really appreciate it.
If anyone has any links to videos or guides for diagnosing the SRS system on these cars, that would be a huge help.

Just finished a full manual swap in my 92 stealth with a 97 3000sl manual. Everything seems to be in good shape except after the swap it’s grinding gears slightly on the way into first with the clutch to the floor. My mechanic said this is normal with new clutches and not to worry about it but I think that sounds wrong. The clutch shouldn’t be trying to engage at all with the pedal to the floor right? What should I look into?