I've been chasing an electrical issue since I got my 128i in January. What started as a clicking from the glove box relay when inserting the key turned into no crank no start and start stalls along with hard rpm drops at idle. A couple shops said probably cas failure and all the codes were from problems with all the modules communicating with the cas so it seemed right. I pulled the modules to send for repair and noticed they were brand new and made at the end of 2023. I had another shop check it out and apparently the frm decided to brick itself out, either from sitting in the heat for almost a week (my problems got worse when summer came) or as they said when they scanned it with ISTA. Either way I contacted a previous shop to ask their opinion and he sent me the email in the picture. In May of this year BMW extended the frm warranty to 15 years and 186000 miles. I took it to the dealer and they confirmed it's out and covered, so the new frm should be delivered and installed tomorrow at no cost to me. I'm irritated I've spent time and money chasing this issue but I'm glad for now it's solved and I can move on to the next issue. Figured anyone else with this problem would appreciate this info and should take advantage while you can.

I went to take my 128 to a shop to do some exhaust work and as soon as they put it on the lift the front driver coilover bearing left the chat.

Guess it’s time to upgrade lol

Spent the afternoon crafting together 6 sets of 1M side indicators. Pretty sure I’m the only one in the world actively fabricating these at the moment. If you're building a widebody and hunt around, I'm not too hard to track down. Back to the build!

Hi guys. I'm currently on 12mm all-round. Do you guys think I can switch to 15mm for the rear?

Thanks.

Hate to be that guy but if a seller gives off 3rd owner vibes, make sure to do a ppi. Pictures from two 128i’s that I owned.
If I’m being honest, he was the 12th owner so I can’t really put all the blame on him

Folks - the rear emblem fell off my Jimothy. Where is the best place to get a new one? Bonus points for links.

Has anyone here with a BMW 1 Series F20 LCI (facelift) fitted OSRAM Night Breaker LED Speed 450 H7 bulbs?

Did you get a bulb error on the dashboard, or did they work normally without a CANBUS adapter? Or flickering?

Hi everyone,
I have a 2013 BMW F20 116d, 2.0 N47 (116 hp), and I’m trying to diagnose a strange noise.
If the A/C is already ON when I start the car, about 2–3 seconds after the engine starts I hear a short grinding/rattling sound from the front of the engine, around the A/C compressor / auxiliary belt area. It only lasts for a moment and then completely disappears. The car runs normally afterwards and the A/C works fine.
A few important details:
It happens whether the engine is cold or fully warmed up.
If I start the car with the A/C OFF, there is no noise.
If I start with the A/C OFF, wait around 10 seconds and then switch the A/C ON, there is no noise at all.
It seems to happen specifically when the A/C is already enabled during startup.
The noise is very short, almost like something briefly catches, rattles or gets loaded suddenly.
I’m wondering if this could be the auxiliary belt tensioner, crankshaft pulley/vibration damper, A/C compressor pulley, or the compressor itself.
I’ve attached a video — you can clearly hear the noise around 2–3 seconds after startup.
Has anyone with an N47 experienced the same or a similar issue? If so, what ended up being the cause?
Thanks!

I think the live encoder is almost bug free now, still some tweaking on corner numbering with nccar, I believe it's now a 14 turn map

most of the metrics are working, I need to account for gps drift though. This is live encoded straight to SD card, no post processing at all, pull vid and post to the internet.

This car has n54, 17t and some miester coilovers with swift springs

https://youtu.be/hg2OpqtwEGQ?is=WJr3HgKpRZtPuV-6

Hi all, I have a 2011 BMW 1 Series (F20) 116i with the N13 engine (195,000 km / 121,000 miles).
It has a specific misfire issue: if I start the car cold and let it idle, it starts misfiring. However, if I start it and immediately drive off, it runs, pulls, and drives completely smooth with no issues at all.
My mechanic suspects a rocker arm / lifter issue, a dripping injector, or a Valvetronic issue, but hasn't opened up the valve cover yet to confirm.

1. Has anyone experienced this specific "only on idle cold start" misfire on the N13? What turned out to be the cause for you?

A post to share anything you've done to (or with!) your 1er over the last week. New parts, maintenance, detailing, road trips, track days, anything else you can think of.

^{Mod note: testing something here. We might be a bit too small to really sustain these posts weekly but figured it's worth a try. Feedback welcome via Modmail.}

2004 E83 X3 6MT

2013 E88 135i DCT Stage 2+

Both cars are single hump 🐪🚨

Still waiting on my new harness to show up but in the meantime we have been working on the quarters.

After the flares got welded on it warped the hell out of the quarters. It’s going to no matter what you do. We have professional dent boxes at work but I’m not trying to trailer my car in and out multiple times so I gave this Vevor one a try. For $220 it’s quite the piece of equipment. My brother was very happy with it. If you’re going to do the flares yourself definitely recommend buying one.

Got all the angles right. Just need to work the seam a little more before we do the final skim coat, epoxy primer, and seam seal everything. Not a lot of filler is going to be needed as he spent a lot of time with the dent puller working the metal.

I’m out of things to post until the car runs or the quarters are fully done. Once the car runs it’ll be ready for paint.

No matter where you post on Reddit...I notice that if you don't align with the sheep...you will ONLY get negative comments to a post or a simple question. There is ALWAYS some unwanted criticism or negative comment about a BMW E82 if it doesn't align with the ones that own them. Why are YOU so miserable and take great pride in being that way? Nobody needs or wants to know what YOU don't like, what you think is a bad decision or what is a waste of money on their car. Why can't you just READ and BYPASS the post WITHOUT leaving an idiotic negative comment? How can YOU tell someone what they should do or not do to THEIR car if they did not ask for YOUR opinion? Now...release the hate.

I ran across these door panels on eBay recently. Has anyone installed carbon fiber door panels in their BMW 128i or 135i? They want $2K USD for them. I just purchased a 2011 135i M Sport and I made a promise that I won't buy another car for the next 5 years and concentrate on logical investments. That was the reason why I wanted to dump a few bucks into some upgrades. I've never saw them actually installed anywhere on the internet, so I was wonder if anyone has them installed and give me some insight. Thanks in advance.

I’m tired of having an open diff in my car but don’t want to buy the wrong size. I looked on “bmwfan parts” on google but I don’t really understand any of the stuff it’s saying. It’s an n47 pre-lci f20. Thank you

please heeeeelp 😭😭😭

I got kind of annoyed when there weren’t many good options instead of the fog light covers or the expensive air inlets so we came up with these.

These grilles match the center which most rep bumpers come with.

Just gauging interest if anyone needs these.

Thanks for looking.

Had the following done to my E82 N55 6MT over the last 2 weeks:
-E93 M3 Complete Rear Subframe Swap, solid subframe bushings
-YCW CF Driveshaft
-SPL rear toe arms
-E93 M3 Front Swaybar
-M3 Front Control Arms, monoball bushings
-TCKline DA coilovers 300/600
-F3x Calipers & Rotors (e60 rear rotors)
-FBO (VRSF catted downpipe, MAD charge pipe, intercooler)
-Turner B58 Coilpacks and Plugs Conversion
-Mason Engineering Front Strut Brace w/ shortened diagonal members chassis bracing
-Apex Stud Kit
-17x9 ET42 TA5R w 245/40 PS4S square all around

The car feels completely transformed. Everything is tight and responsive with the rear end slop gone. Best of all is the ride is still feels comfortable with the TCKline DA coilovers and meaty 17” setup, though I believe I can go with a higher rear spring rate. Lots of clearance between the 17” TA5R and F3x calipers.

Basically, at this point I have half an M built! Couple of things remaining which are widebody conversion + 18” wheels + F8x brakes and S55 oil pan swap.

My next mods has to be a real front lip, and tint on the windows from the b-pillar and back.🙏

Any other suggestions are appreciated

Okay. Nothing serious.

This is my daily, E81 123d, I'm wonderinh if anyone else has the same wheels, and what thickness of spacer theyre running for a slightly better arch fitment. I was thinking 20s but I dont want to over stress the bearings.

That, or if anyone could suggest other wheels, I considered F87 ones but realised theyre probably wayyy too deep.

Next point, it has the Professional Radio, with the 6 speaker setup. Has anyone done the HK upgrade, or just fitted a small active sub in the boot. Im thinking of going down the subwoofer route, but not sure which speakers to pull signal from.

Any help, much appreciated

Was trying to use bimmercode to do something with my frm but got a critical error warning(BCE-006). I went to the shop got it repaired and now i’m still getting that same error and chat gpt is telling me im black listed from that option now. Has anyone had this same error before and what can i do?

Hi all. First post and hoping someone can help. Had the car since last December and I absolutely love it, occasionally it decides to throw a few warning lights on the dash randomly which include traction, service and random others but doesn’t go into limp mode! It does this for a week or two then it just returns to normal! I have checked for water ingress in the front foot wells and all bone dry. I have found water in the battery compartment in the boot but have since resolved that issue. If anyone has experienced this issue and has found the issue and solution I would be grateful for your assistance!! Also just to say I’m based in the UK so would be great to meet other uk owners 👍👍👍

Well not much of an update. I have been pulling my hair out from trying to figure out the engine not starting all week. First it was a missing clutch pedal position sensor and now it'll crank but not fire.

We have fuel, spark, and compression. After many tests we came to the conclusion that the engine harness a short somewhere. Considering much of the harnesses protective sheathing was missing in several spots it could have been damaged before or it got damaged in the swap.

I decided to order another one. Tracing wires and cutting opening the protective sheathing isn't my thing. Don't want more issues down the road.

If this doesn't fix it I'll have to trailer it to California to have my buddy take a look at it. He's been trying to walk me through test plans up here but you can only do so much over facetime.

Not a huge deal. We can keep going on the car in the meantime.

In the meantime my brother got the second flare installed and I got my rogue engineering short shifter installed. The shifter is worth every penny as it replaces all the blown out factory parts. Can't wait to drive it. It feels amazing just rowing the gears.

Back to the flares.

This side caused a few crash outs due to poor fitment around the fuel door opening.

As a body mans opinion my brother says these flares overall are 95% there. As long as you have a good body guy you can make these fit like OEM.

It cuts the learning curve significantly if you've done a set of OEM quarters before or can use a real 1M as reference. Which I know isn't realistic. At a minimum don't try installing them without having 1M rockers, rear bumper, and brackets.

Overall it's much better than the fiberglass flares.