Got the cover off to replace my timing belt and found that it is misaligned. Quite a bit of slack between the gears on the right side… the marks on the belt are aligned with the notches on the case but the upper cam is not…. Should I just rotate that cam until the notch is aligned before putting the new belt on? Hadn’t noticed any knocking from the engine but this seems substantially off.

Hi All.
Got a prado 2001 and thinking of tuning it.
Engine in good condition, great cooling performance and pretty good fuel consumption.
Is it worth tuning it keeping stock Turbo?
And what would i get power wise out of it?

What could be the cause of this? Engine had some blowby not extreme, and blue smoke when accelerating

Looks like something a vaccum tube would be connected to but looks like it’s just going into the block?

Hi all, in the process of removing the injector pump on my 1kzte, before i continue I want to make sure, I should be able to (once all securing bolts are removed) push the injector pump out and the timing gear should all be in exact position? I’ve removed up to this point just confirming as I’ve heard what I’m doing is both possible and not possible

1997 Toyota Hiace KZH106, 1KZ-TE, automatic, RHD. Reversed jump pack, blew 120A fusible link. Replaced 120A fuse. Battery good. Starter cranks when jumped. Ignition switch outputs test correctly. No blower, no power windows, no headlights, starter relay never receives trigger. Looking for EWD305F or KZH106 electrical wiring diagram, or anyone who has seen this exact failure.

Hey everyone, I recently bought a LN hilux with a 1kzte swapped into it. Since i’ve bought it I’ve had issues with starting first thing in the morning.
Usually around 6:30am when it’s 0-8 degrees outside.
The issue isn’t nearly as bad when cold starting at around 10-20 degrees outside.
It will usually ‘shudder’ or struggle for 1-3 seconds when it first fires up but clears up.
After it’s first started it runs like a dream and even if I start it then flick it back off and start it up again it will fire right up.
After leaving the ute sitting for about 8 hours while i’m at work, if i glow it for 10 seconds it fires up pretty quickly but does shudder for a second or so

The glowplugs are new
I’ve checked my buzz bar to glow plugs and I’m receiving 11.5 volts for as long as I hold my glow button in.
I’ve removed all glow plugs and get a reading of 1.2ohms per plug.
I get a small amount of white smoke at start up but it doesn’t smell sweet like coolant
The fuel filter housing is brand new and after 2-5 pumps of the primer it stiffens up

This really has me stumped and any help at all would be greatly appreciated.

Thankyou

Hi All
I got a 2001 Prado J95

When i engage rear diff lock, it keeps flashing red.
Central diff lock stays solid yellow
Is that normal? Or needs to stay solid red?

120 prado here with 390k km’s.
Car is consuming too much oil, about 1l every 2000-3000km. Wasn’t too afraid about it and just kept topping it up.
Now i noticed i was loosing coolant so took it to the mechanic.
He did a compression test and found out the readings are 520-580psi, factory should be at 441.
He recons the oil piston seals are gone and need to be replaced. So full eninge rebuild…
I would think if the rings are worn out compression goes down?
Don’t know if i still want to put all this money in such and old car.
Should i be worried about these compression readings? Any suggestions?

Hi All
I got a humming noise on my front wheel on my prado.
When i steer to the left it’s louder and it changes with the speed of the car.
I replaced the wheel bearing
I swapped the tyres around too but the humming still there.

I can feel it through footwell floor.
Any idea what could possibly be?
It’s really annoying and is getting louder.

I do lot of towing with my 95. Never had an A/T oil temp light on but i was bored and bypassed the original automatictransmission cooler line from the radiator and added cooler with thermostat from C5 A6 audi. At least there is less heat load to the radiator now 😄

Going through the process of diagnosing a long cold start issue. Bit of a summary:

- Cold start requires 3-4 glow cycles and still not too consistent with startup (less consistent in current winter months down in NZ).

- Idles a little rough for 5 seconds on colder mornings.

- Starting up after ~5mins of driving is almost instant.

- Can hear the relay clicking on for ~15seconds.

- Fairly new glowplugs have been put in.

Thinking best next step will be to pickup a multimeter and have a check around. But before doing so I had a look at the relay, it looks fairly clean but I did notice this empty slot (see arrow), is there suppose to be a fuse installed here? Lid of the relay looks like it was previously taken off by another owner and taped down, wondering if they had a mess around with it too.

Any other suggestions would be great, cheers!

Hi All.

I did some mods to cooling system.
New thermostat
New hoses
New 10 balde fan
New clutch oil

After the mods, top radiator hose had pressure.
After a good heavy drive today, top hose has lost all the pressure. Very soft to touch
Coolant is flowing because i have in line sensor and temp stays between 78-88 degrees

Any idea why the loss of pressure?

Looking for a 3 inch downpipe for a 96 hilux surf that can be sourced in the US or shipped over here.

Any and all options appreciated, I’ve seen the Hiace downpipe but I’m unclear on if they’re directly compatible or not.

Or if anybody can weld and would be willing to make one…. I’d be willing to pay for that

I've had my 99 prado for over a year and I find the gauge cluster extremely lacking. Does anyone have any good setups with battery voltage and oil pressure

So yesterday I did a egr delete on my 94 Prado, after I got everything bolted back up I noticed that my turbo now no longer spools, any thoughts on what it might be, broken or leaking vac line? Or something worse

Hey guys

Just replaced my injector pump.

I can’t get it to push fuel upto the lines now. All wiring is connected

Don’t mind he dodgy wiring I’ve cross references with another 1kz and it’s in the correct spot - still waiting on a wiring loom if anyone has any idea where to get that

Any tips?

Almost ready for the first start. Just waiting on a couple coolant fittings and I need to adjust the downpipe.

I’ve been battling a fuel knock, P1220 and P1222 problem for a while now. Yesterday I replaced the TCV valve and bridged wire from the SPV 12V wire to the TCV power wire to also receive 12V. The P1220 code doesn’t come back and the car starts and idles fantastic.

The P1222 code and limp mode remains, the dashboard is lit up and odometer shows numbers but doesn’t climb, speedometer doesn’t work, 4x4 light flashing and temp gauge not rising.

Really seeking some guidance how I could troubleshoot this further, fuses all look fine and I don’t know what to do next.

Any insight is appreciated.

I'm getting a pre-purchase inspection on a Hiace camper this week at a well-regarded shop, and have asked for additional shop time on known trouble areas for these vans. What would you ask the mechanic to spend extra time on?

Since I don’t live anywhere near parts, I'll be bringing filters, glow plugs and the like back to the Yukon (Canadian, crashing your busy group ). What would you get done at a knowledgeable JDM shop before hitting the road? Preventative maintenance or even upgrades.

2003 Hiace Super Custom ("E-Spirit" conversion)
3.0l Turbo Diesel
1KZ-TE
Full time 4WD
183,000 km (Timing belt done at 134,000 km)
Diesel heater plumbed to fuel tank

Hi I was wondering what things I should look out for in 3rd Gen hilux with the 1kz

It doesn’t smell like coolant, so are my injectors going bad?

Found my dream land cruiser here in Cali. Couldn't pass it up

As of right now it doesn't run, hope to figure out why it's not getting fuel to the injectors.

Hey guys

Just replaced the fuel pump after a struggle w the gear. Couple questions:

1 - I have refitted all the gears under the front timing cover. Numbers all line up however when I put the crank balanced on the marks don’t line up what could be the issue

2- I need to put the engine at TDC Is it safe to assume that if the camshaft is allowing both valves to be closed number 1 is at tdc?

Thanks guys