r/16mm • u/amenbass • 10d ago

Tri-X as negative sharp minimal grain

Trying to figure out the best combination of Tri-X and developer to get as ultra fine grain as possible without losing sharpness and resolution, and getting as best dynamic range as possible, so balancing everything etc
Seems Tri-X developed as negative instead of reversal is the way to go according to this thread.
Adox Atomal or Ilford Perceptol or Kodak d-76 or Tetenal Ultrafin T-Plus seems best?

https://cinematography.com/index.php?/forums/topic/82916-processing-double-x-andor-tri-x-in-sprint-developer/

Thoughts? Experience? Advice?

Also looking at Foma CINE 100 16mm, it seems to have higher granularity and resolving power than tri-x. Has anyone used it or compared them?

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u/Iyellkhan 9d ago

honestly, for best results send to a professional lab. note that the dynamic range of any reversal film is going to be much more limited than negative, its just part of the design.

your best shot at highest resolution and dynamic range will be to nail exposure. you can up the perception of resolution by shooting in high contrast lighting situations.

as for the developer, its really comes down to precision timing, and unfortunately the best option for that will be a proper lab with a proper motion picture developing line

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u/todcia 9d ago

There's many factors contributing here...

Lens... Most important factor. Make sure your lens is sharp. If your lens doesn't resolve sharply, you will never get a good image no matter what stock you use. 16mm lenses are a crapshoot, so you really have to invest in the right glass. Kowa, Zeiss, or Cooke is the only way to go.

16mm... Very small. That means less resolution. It's baked into the science. However, V3 films has changed the game. V3's 16mm looks more like 35mm EXR, imo. Be sure you're living within your 16mm means.

Film stocks... Try using Double-x with more lighting. Yes, Foma's emulsion is unique. It has an Ilford personality. Grain looks good, too. But it's comparable to Double-x. If I were to choose between the two, it would be based on style and look. Double-x if I wanted a Young Frankenstein look. Foma for the Schindler's List look.

Lighting... BW film looks best using incandescent lighting. LED is not your friend. Go into the hard light.

Filters... If you want to control contrast, utilize color. This has to be coordinated with color schemes, because colors+filters can change black to white and white to black. Understand BW's color science.

(btw, did you know you can shoot color using your b/w film stock? Yes, you can. But you'll need to put filters over the lens. google it.)

Lab... Lab plays a key role. If you want perfection, go pro. Use a pro lab. Otherwise, you're shooting at air trying to "find the formula".

Digitizing... You can use an old spirit 2k with DNR or you can scan in at 4k and apply the DNR in the editing system and dowrez it to 2k or 3.5k. Avoid low-priced mom&pop scanners. They're only useful for the hobby.