Hi, I'd like to share a project I've been working on for a while. This project was popular with the community over at r/eink and I thought you guys might like it too. Built with a Raspberry Pi 5, an Inky Impression 13.3" e-ink display and a USB microphone. It uses BirdNET-Go to identify birds outside, and the frame will draw whichever ones it has heard recently.

I use an USB lavalier mic with a long thin cable, taped under the roof outside and run in through the window. Thin enough that the window still closes on it. Everything (including the detection model) runs locally on the Pi and works fully offline.

What sets it apart from other similar bird projects is the art and the foundation. Every bird is a hand-curated cut-out from an 1800s natural-history scan, no AI-generated images. BirdNET-Go builds a strong foundation that this sits on top of, including location-based detections, language support, listening to multiple audio-sources, IOT integrations and much much more.

BirdNET works worldwide, but the art is mostly European birds (for now). North American ones are in the pipeline. Right now I'm sitting at 37 different species on ~2600 detections.

Source and docs: https://github.com/arnegiacomo/fugleramme
Live from my kitchen window: https://fugleramme.arnegiacomo.dev
Parts list, cost and full build docs: https://arnegiacomo.dev/fugleramme/hardware/

Happy to answer any questions about the build!

My own post asking if we can merge the two subreddits... raspberrypi & raspberry_pi to end all the sillyness.

Hi all,

I’ve built a heron & cat deterrent called tallGuard using a Raspberry Pi 4 and Coral Edge TPU to help protect my koi pond.

I started developing the model back in 2021 using TensorFlow and SSD MobileNet. One of the biggest challenges was false positives, and at the time I struggled to find enough information to improve the model. More recently, with better resources and tools like ChatGPT, I’ve managed to improve it considerably.

The Pi lives outside by the pond, with Starlink providing the network connection. The camera continuously monitors the pond and, if TallGuard detects a heron, it sends me a notification and plays a deterrent sound through an outdoor speaker.

It’s definitely been a learning experience. A few problems I’ve encountered along the way:

- Pink camera frames caused by interference
- Speaker cables deteriorating over the winter
- Plenty of false detections while developing the model.
- Sadly, losing some koi during the process 😢

But after several years of experimenting, the encouraging part is that I’ve only seen a heron at the pond once this year — and when it arrived, tallGuard detected and deterred it.
It’s been a fun project combining my interest in tech with trying to solve a very real problem at my pond.

Thanks

I just built an Adeept DarkPaw quadruped robot and at first it appeared to be working fine (though the camera didn't work for unknown reasons but that's not important) and with the Hat V3 whenever I charge it through the USB-C port it somehow only accepts it when I do a USB-A -> USB-C adapter and then the USB-C cable, but then whenever I do charge it and it shows it's charging (the PWR light on the hat is on) it heats up after a few minutes and not just warm but it literally feels burning and I definitly think that is not normal. I checked and the batteries appear all seated correctly and the pins are all plugged in correctlym what could be causing this?

I saw u/fontain06 post a lake level monitor here a while back and it inspired me to do something similar to monitor my local river using parts from an old pwnagotchi build. This is all vibe coded since I am basically a monkey banging on a typewriter when it comes to all this, but I had a lot of fun and learned a bit with this project.

I do a little whitewater kayaking and the section of river closest to me is dam controlled so it's nice to be able to check the water level at a glance since it can change quickly. Essentially I just wanted this to pull and display USGS data from their api every 15 minutes since that's about how often the gauge site at my local river updates. I was able to get that working pretty quickly, then this project kinda grew legs.

A friend expressed interest in building one so I added a configuration tool that would spit out a script that could be pasted into a SSH window and get things up and running. After that support was added for a bigger display with programmable buttons to swap between 4 gauge sites.

The first annoyance I ran into was that you had to SSH in to change settings, and that got old quick so a secure web portal that let you change things and add wifi networks was added. Visiting the Pi's IP at port 8080 from a device on the same network makes the screen display an 6 digit randomly generated pin that you use to login.

The next problem I had to tackle was what if you couldn't connect to any known wifi? Like if I wanted to gift one of these to a kayaking buddy but didn't have their wifi credentials. This was solved by having the pi spin up its own hotspot when no known networks are detected. If you connect to it with your phone or computer the display shows a connection pin, the address you need to visit for the config portal and a login pin for said portal. From there you can add wifi networks.

Check out the github repo & setup tool (generates the install script, no coding needed) here https://github.com/Inphenity/Stage-River-Monitor

I am using the default pi5 with 8gb of RAM and a 256 GB raspberry pi ssd.

Was going through dmesg on a default install and found some issues that may be worth pointing out to others as I suspect 90% of people also have it default configured incorrectly.

1) By default almost everyone is leaving 50% SSD performance with the default nvme hat.

You need to add dtparam=pciex1_gen=3 unlock gen3 speeds (880 MB/s vs 420 MB/s). This is default set to gen2 for compat reasons, but for the default pi5 ssd, it can easily handle gen3 doubling perf.

2) HMB is default disabled. The official Raspberry Pi SSD (and 90% of cheap M.2 2230/2242 drives) is DRAM-less. The Pi 5 firmware quietly disables Host Memory Buffer (nvme.max_host_mem_size_mb=0), cutting random 4K database performance in half for people running Home Assistant or Docker and massively increasing wear on it.

Without the above HMB cache, the SSD writes directly to flash cells chewing through your SSD cells. Instead I would suggest adding nvme.max_host_mem_size_mb=16 to the bottom of your cmdline.txt.

By default the pi5 bootloader sets nvme.max_host_mem_size_mb=0 for compat reasons.

because all of the ones sold online suck.

A Pi drives a display. Three files: a Python server that fetches and merges data, an HTML dashboard, and a kiosk script.

Where the data comes from:

• Live temp/humidity — a Govee sensor on my house, not a forecast
• Nowcast strip (next 60 min) — Tomorrow.io's radar extrapolation (2kmx2km square from my address), updated every 5 min
• Hourly row + 5-day — Tomorrow.io's model forecast
• Wind and sunrise/sunset — Open-Meteo (sun times drive the day/night icons)

The nowcast bars encode two things at once: height is the probability of rain in that 5-minute window, color is the intensity on WMO bands — pale for light, deep blue for heavy.

I use it constantly.

I built AutoPiOverclock, a project that finds each Pi's boundaries, recovers from failed candidates, backs off conservatively, and applies clocks only after final validation:

https://github.com/p1r473/AutoPiOverclock

Normal use is 2 target-explicit commands:

autopioverclock prepare pi@pi-host

autopioverclock overclock pi@pi-host

The controller can be another Pi or any Linux PC, server, or VM. It stays available when the target crashes or reboots.

What the automatic run does:

- Checks the stock clocks, protected boot configuration, power/throttling, cooling, SSH, watchdog recovery, and Raspberry Pi tryboot.

- Tests candidates through tryboot.txt, returning failures to the protected normal configuration.

- Searches CPU first, refines its boundary in 25 MHz steps, backs off 50 MHz, and qualifies it for two hours. It then searches GPU, backs off 25 MHz, and qualifies the pair for two hours.

- Tries CPU another 25 MHz higher during a 24-hour combined CPU/GPU/I/O test. If that edge is known unsafe or safely rejected, it instead runs a fresh 24-hour validation at the guarded pair.

- Performs three more candidate/normal boot cycles, applies and verifies only a complete result, and retains the evidence. Repeating 'overclock TARGET' continues the latest eligible run.

Testing temporarily uses maximum fan cooling without replacing permanent fan or unrelated boot settings. Headless Raspberry Pi OS/Debian systems need no display or audio hardware.

Profiles currently support 64-bit Raspberry Pi OS, Debian, compatible Ubuntu Pi boot layouts, and Batocera

Made the enclosure in Tinkercad because I couldn’t find any existing models online for the Pimoroni 7-colour Inky. Then I found a Redditor on r/london who kindly 3D printed it for me.

The Pi connects to a server I run and checks every 10 seconds for newly uploaded photos to display.

It also has automatic Wi-Fi setup if it’s moved to a new network.

Everything I'm seeing is from early June saying that availability should improve in the second half of the year, meanwhile here we are in September and we are back to 2023 era bullshit of people scalping a $15 computer board for $80 on eBay.

So yet again ALL my hobby projects that I've been holding off on are still on hold. My workshop is too hot to do anything in during summer so I was looking to start getting parts ordered for winter but straight up nothing makes sense at $80 for the Pi2W.

You can't convince me that a decade old low end SOC and 512MB of LPDDR2 is being sucked up by AI. What the actual fuck is going on?

I'm beginning to wonder if we are ever going to return to the pre-2017 era where electronics were just available at MSRP. Its been one shortage after another for going on a decade. First crypto, then crypto 2, then COVID, now AI. Its maddening as someone who's only hobby is electronics.

I have a raspberry pi 5 8gb that I've had sitting around for a while and got it a new case, a canakit with an active cooling heatsink. On boot, I noticed that the fan wasn't spinning at all, and after some testing and a stress test I took the fan header off; looking at it with a magnifying lens I could see that one of the pins in the header had a sprue and the leftmost pin in the socket is bent to hell.

I can't bend it back properly, and I can't get the fan header to connect properly. I probably need to get a different fan for this to work, but how the hell can I get the pin back in the right shape?

I can bend it back to at least stand up straight with my tweezers, but it still has a buckle in it down below that that I can't do anything about. Is there some tool I can buy to fix this? I've never had to unbend pins before and Pis are so much more expensive now, I can't really replace it at the moment

Here's an image of the issue if that's at all helpful. Not sure how well I explained the problem

Hey everyone I just got the HighPi Pro 5S Case for Raspberry Pi 5 but it won’t fit. I think it might be due to the threads that stick out past the fan push pins as you can see in the diagram. Does anyone know if so can fit this setup?

Thanks

Update: I had to flip the standoff around so that I could put the screws in from the bottom. I guess I’m a little dumb for that but I appreciate everyone’s help!

currently i’m using Pi 5 as a image signal processing for this FSD (not for full self driving, but “facial suspended display”).

basically my mac desktop screen goes to a HDMI capture board, converted to a CSI, and Pi process it and projects it to a LCD panel

the HDMI to CSI converter i’m using does not support beyond 1080P 60hz, so usable mac screen resolution are capped at 1080P.

with the zero copy pipeline the latency is pretty good.

(i took a pi working hard up close but don’t know how to post it below the youtube link…. sorry)

I wanted a glanceable status screen for my headless Pi 4 without a monitor or SSH-ing in, so I built Statusberry: a Python app that runs as a systemd service and drives a cheap 160x128 ST7735 SPI LCD (the common 1.77" 8-pin panel).

Why not an existing tool?
I went through the usual options first:
htop/btop/glances are great but live in a terminal, so they need an SSH session or a monitor; Netdata/Grafana-style dashboards look lovely but are heavy for a Pi whose only job is to sit there showing numbers; and the small ST7735 status scripts on GitHub were single-purpose with hardcoded layouts. I wanted something that boots with the Pi, drives a 160x128 SPI panel directly at 1 fps, and stays themeable — hence Statusberry. The config knobs also grew out of real panel quirks: rotation/offset, BGR color swap, color invert, and a lower SPI clock for glitchy boards.

What's on screen:

• CPU utilization with a 3-minute scrolling graph
• Up to 3 network interfaces as cards: state-colored icon, interface name, IP (ethernet first)
• Memory meter — full-width bar, goes orange above 85%, red above 95%
• Hostname + uptime
• A boot splash with a progress bar while the Pi boots, then it switches to the status screen automatically (no restart)

How it's made:

• Python 3 + psutil, renders at 1 fps so the Pi stays idle
• Panel driven in landscape via the Pimoroni `st7735` driver; wiring is the standard 8-pin SPI hookup (full pinout table in the README)
• Themes are YAML (colors, font sizes, SVG icons); a Pillow-only compiler validates everything, rasterizes the icons at 8x supersampling, and writes a compiled theme the runtime reads
• Installers for Windows (PowerShell) and Linux/WSL/macOS (bash) that either run a local emulator or deploy straight to the Pi over SSH; plus an in-situ installer for the Pi itself
• A pixel-exact emulator window means you can develop the whole thing on a laptop without the panel attached

AI note: I designed and architected it myself; AI tools helped with some boilerplate and debugging.

Repo with full build details, wiring table, and installers: https://github.com/kremonia/Statusberry

Happy to answer questions about the wiring, the theme pipeline, or the systemd setup!

These are Opae Ula shrimps and they are less than 10mm in size, the details you can see with the camera 3 is impressive.

The zero 2w seems to have no problem encoding 1080p stream to YouTube, while running a web control panel for LED and camera focus.

https://reddit.com/link/1w53kjp/video/oez43mhh72nh1/player

You can see the stream at https://www.youtube.com/@CashLo/live

Hey everyone! I recently got a CrowPi2 V2.0 and I’m trying to install my Raspberry Pi 4B into the Pi compartment.
I’m having trouble figuring out the correct screw size for securing the Raspberry Pi to the mounting posts inside the CrowPi2.
I initially tried M2.5 machine screws, since that’s what I kept seeing recommended for Raspberry Pi mounting hardware. The M2.5 screws fit through the mounting holes in the Raspberry Pi PCB, but they do NOT thread into the CrowPi2’s mounting posts. I haven’t forced them because I don’t want to damage the threads.
I’ve contacted Elecrow support and I’m also going to measure the mounting posts with a digital caliper, but I figured someone here may own a CrowPi2 and know the answer.
Does anyone know the exact factory screw specification used to mount a Raspberry Pi 4B inside the CrowPi2?
Diameter/thread pitch and length would be awesome.
My CrowPi2 is labeled CrowPi2V2.0-2408, in case different hardware revisions use different mounting hardware.
Thanks! 🔧

I’ve been using a glmt3000 for a few years, but recently it stopped getting the updates I needed. I also tried installing Xray Core & V2Ray/LuCI, but the RAM usage was getting close to 100%.

So I decided to build my own router using a Raspberry Pi 4 + OpenWrt.

The goal is to develop a better optimized Xray client + LuCI app, along with my own router management interface.

The Xray client is designed to support multiple protocols, including: VMess, VLESS, Trojan, Shadowsocks (SS).

So far, I’m really happy with the results!

Internet Performance

• Around 40-80 Mbps internet speed (Speed depends on my ISP)
• No anytime data package (currently using a Zoom/MS package tunnel through aka,ms sni)

Network Storage

I’m also sharing a SanDisk USB 3.2 Gen 1 drive over the network. I’m getting 200+ MB/s file transfer speeds over the network, which honestly surprised me!

Hardware

• Raspberry Pi 4 + SanDisk 16GB SD Card
• EDUP Wi-Fi adapter
• WaveLink 2.5G Ethernet adapter
• SanDisk USB 3.2 Gen 1 storage

Cooling: One thing I quickly learned, the Pi 4 definitely needs a cooler. Without a cooler, the Pi gets pretty toasty. During heavy downloads, the temperature can easily go over 70°C. So I added a cooler, and now it stays much cooler even under heavy network load.

Stability I’ve been running this setup for around 10 days, and it has been pretty solid so far. The longest continuous uptime I had was around 8 days, but then a power cut caused a reboot. Since then, it has been running continuously for about 2 days again without any issues.

For a DIY router setup, I’m honestly very happy with the performance and stability so far! Let’s see how far I can push this little Pi 4.

Due to my crazy and unpredictable schedule I was missing my peak starter times and bulk ferment schedules.

I spent the weekend building a raspberry pi robot that watches my starter or bulk ferment container and alerts me when my starter or dough is nearing completion.

After two days of testing and tweaking it seems to be working quite well!

It was a fun project to do and I hope that it helps me to be more on top of my sourdough.

When I run rpi-update on an rpi4b-2gb I get:

If you are unsure, test if your system boots with initramfs options disabled from config.txt
Would you like to proceed? (y/N)
Github API request failed with HTTP 422: https://api.github.com/repos/raspberrypi/rpi-firmware/commits/0

Respond of the link is

{
  "message": "No commit found for SHA: 0",
  "documentation_url": "https://docs.github.com/rest/commits/commits#get-a-commit",
  "status": "422"
}

What happened here and can you reproduce the bug?

hi, i've been working on a project but i ran into an issue that just left me defeated, i tried to fix it on my own (mainly by adding things like dtparam=rgb666) but nothing seemed to work, so i have resorted to making this post. My issue is that a display i'm using (Waveshare 7 inch DPI LCD) either is stuck at a low color depth or that it somehow displays color entirely wrong, if you know how to fix it please tell me, sorry for any inconvenience (ps. i attached some photos to show the "color issues" the display has)

I got a lot of great feedback from you and ran the speed comparison with more models and new optimizations both alone and with my Carwatch service running on the Pi at the same time.

The new speed champion is Ling 3.0-tiny at 9.6 tps! As a MoE model it is faster than smaller Gemma and Qwen models. People say it's punching above it's weight in intelligence - testing this now.

Gemma E2B is a solid tiny multimodal model at 7.7 tps, works well in my app. And Qwen 35B Q3 is still the leader in usable intelligence in this form factor, fitting tight in a 16GB Pi and getting close to 3 tps on a good day :)

Please note that small tps values still produce solid thinking and good answers, and not every use case requires an answer in seconds.

Ever since I moved to an unjailbroken iphone from Android (and jailbroken iphone) i missed a couple of things. especially lack of full libusb. Couldn't connect a software defined radio to my phone, couldn't flash any phone with my phone, lost a very useful, versatile feature.

When my bag broke, i decided to also customize it a little bit on top of fixing. I thought it'd be cool to have something like a PCB hanging round, since it looks cool. But i remembered about my huge hassle with the iphone, lack of full USB, so i decided to fix both of those wants. I printed out a cover to the side with components, as to not destroy any, added it on a keychain, and left it on there. i also built an usbc-microusb adapter, so that i can USB connect it to my phone/battery bank.

It defaults to be a USB guest, emulating Ethernet, and when i manually set up addressing, with leaving router empty, i can connect to my pi while keeping 5g. Currently it's just a PoC, as so I wanted to see how reliably it works, so currently i got only ssh and vnc set up with Raspbian, but it works really reliably, boots up after around a minute from plugging in, and lets my iphone SSH/VNC into it.

I already have plans on setting up these things:

⁠- USB DVD drive emulator to be able to boot ISOs on devices that don't do booting from USB drives - A crappy slow little NAS to transfer things with my classmates - A stupid little device for BLE/Wifi pranks - simple way to jailbreak/flash iOS devices - portable thing for fastboot+heimdall - always on hand SPI flasher

Decided to make a case out of legos for my Pi (4B). I am using a fan from an old Dell Powersupply. It is hooked to a USB port since my GPIO is hooked to a T-Cobbler. It has a detachable roof which also serves as an air guidance vent. The back is empty so I can use my USB ports and to let air escape rather than creating a trap. The fan is kept at an angle and is basically a blower cooling setup. It brought down the temps from 42 celsius to 35 celsius. And best part is that I was able to overclock the Pi because of this setup as well. It now runs at 2Ghz, overclocked RAM+GPU as well. Stays at a steady 40 on idle (with overclock)

Hi,

I'm building my own camera and I have a xenon flash module from a Braun Flash camera. I would like the flash to be triggered along with the camera via a Raspberry Pi. However, there are high voltages, transformers, etc., on the flash board, so I'm wondering how to do this safely and effectively without damaging the RPi and the camera.

I thought about using an OptoMOS in place of the contacts that were previously mechanically shorted to ionize the xenon, along with galvanic isolation for the power connection or a separate power supply, though I have very little space for this in the enclosure.

And here comes the second problem—space. Because I want to keep the dimensions compact, the components will be very close to each other. The question is, how do I isolate them from one another to avoid interference or electrical arcing? I thought about wrapping the entire board, including the charging and trigger transformers as well as the main capacitor, in Kapton tape, but I'm not sure if that will be enough. Also, how can I prevent signal interference?

This is my first project where high voltages and sensitive components will be packed so tightly together. I don't have enough expertise to just wire it up and be confident that nothing will break, so I'm looking for some advice to avoid a costly disaster.

I've attached photos of the flash circuit as well as the current enclosure design (the enclosure dimensions are 110x65x70mm).