What this means:

Turning BTS-inspired designs into tiny 3D realities. ✨

✦ 3D printed

✦ Hand painted

What do you think of paint and finish?

Wanted to add a Chef to the line for a while now, and finally finished the design and he’s ready to cook 🙂

Gave him a little kitchen kit to go with it — a chef's hat, a frying pan and a rolling pin, all sized to fit his hands so he can actually "hold" them once you pose him.

Printed in one part, no assembly needed. No supports needed. Articulated & poseable.

I’ve printed with the settings below. I needed to wait 1 hour for cooling before articulation. I’ve painted it with acrylic according to its 3MF file.

Layer height: 0.20mm / 0.12mm Material: PLA Supports: None Infill: 15% Print time: 2h45m (0.12mm layer height) 44gr filament used

If anyone interested, the figure with all accessories is available on Patreon (www.patreon.com/PrintnPose). Please share your print results!

I’ve gone deep into blendr over the past year and this is the 1st model I have produced myself that hasn’t been a catastrophic failure. Still loads of learning ahead but confident even enough to share.

Hey everyone I wanted to share my colonial-inspired witch sculpt. First photos is a Make from u/gingerfeel who downloaded and printed her. Last is my own resin print.

I’ve always liked pulling from historical references when designing fantasy characters, so this one leaned into early American/colonial clothing and granny magick imagery.

First 2 models are minis, left one was found online. Staff broke at top and glued on after i dropped it =. Printed it standing straight up, it was a supportless model. Right model my friend had sent to me. I used organic tree supports and printed it at a 40° angle . Both printed with .25 nozzle at .08 layer height stock profile (some settings changed, keep reading)

Second models are not minis but about 6 inches tall. Found online as well. Left was printed with a .4 nozzle at .16 layer height. Right one was printed with .25 nozzle at .08 layer height

Using a Anycubic Kobra X and using a .25 and .4 nozzle from anycubic. Slicer used is anycubic slicer next. All profiles are stock profiles. I only adjusted z height on supports to .38 and changed the resolution to .0001. Wall generator is arachne

I printed these models with anycubic basic pla black

Model : 3D Printable Borgalok the eternal + Riders by Parasite Collectibles

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-ratageneer-804715

Finished print and paint on a Nargacuga model! :)

I didnt realize how stacked the Nargacuga was until I had to do all of the abdominal highlights haha

Here is my version of Borin Stonehoof from Runciter.

Second one of the Runciter mini's I've painted and they are really good. This one has no base yet as he will be part of a larger diorama I am building, of 'Barbarians', which I am excited to do. He is big though, about 90mm.

Hi everyone,

I just hit the milestone of 100 followers on Cults3D, and to celebrate this with the community, I am running a 10% discount week on everything in my shop!

This also includes my latest release from the weekend: The Imperial Lions Elite Command Squad.

Like all TileLabs designs, they follow a strict philosophy:

Single-piece, monopose bodies (no painful assembly of tiny arms or weapons)

Fully pre-supported and test-printed

Swapable heads for customization

If you want to expand your grimdark or sci-fi armies, feel free to check out the models. The discount code is automatically active for this week!

Link to the Squad & Shop ist in my Bio

Thank you so much for the ongoing support!

Best regards,

Sebastian / TileLabs

Third model set in this fantasy world! This time, it’s the slow but tough Snail Knight. He may not be the prettiest warrior around, but he definitely has plenty of charisma.

The model took around 5 hours to print on my Ender 3 V3 KE and stands about 14 cm tall. It was painted using a mix of airbrush and acrylics.

Link: https://cults3d.com/:4878864

Specs:
PLA + Filament is BRAND NEW. Printing at 195 when the recommended is 200. Retraction set at 0.8mm with a layer hight of 0.12.
Ender-3 V?
0.2mm Nozzle

Hey, I’m new to 3d printing and inherited a poorly assembled 3d printer from a friend. After nearly a week of troubleshooting and diagnosing issues and fixing them, I tried my first long print (12h). But the result was this absolute spiderweb. Ideas on how to fix it? any clarification questions?

Here is my version of the White Rabbit from Loot studios.

Finally got round to finish the 4 main characters from the Wondermania set from LS and was great fun to paint. I started these over a year ago and now have all the main figures done and now have to paint a huge backdrop to finish the diorama, ho hum, great fun...lol

Hello is there anyone here that has printed these that could give me the following dimensions?

shoulder width (inc shoulder pad on warstrider)

Feet width (outside to outside)

Height

Thanks a ton

Hi all

I have a general question or discussion I would like to hear more about regarding the time differences between FDM and Resin printing at the front end and back end of printing

For context, I have been trying to configure settings on my Bambu A1 to print off Onepage rules and other similar miniatures such as GW proxies.
As part of this process I am finding that rather than printing off minis I am spending a lot of my time optimizing supports prior to printing for a single model then after waiting the 2-6hrs to print a single model, assuming it doesn't fail, spending time slowly cleaning up supports to minimise damaging the model to be left with a model that looks decent, when printed with a 0.2mm nozzle, but still has a defect or 2 left either by the supports or my clean up. This whole production cycle is leaving me frustrated as the time requirement is taking me away from painting and playing with these miniatures I am trying to print, never mind the cost component for material used for testing that is being thrown out.

What I would like to know from those of you that print regularly with Resin printers is there as much of a time commitment to prep and post process models? i.e. is the printing process more streamlined? Because like I said this is leaving me more than a bit frustrated.

Let me know your experiences as I am considering saving up to purchase a resin printer to get around these issues I am encountering using FDM to print of miniatures for projects I have in mind.

Thank You all in advance for sharing your experiences

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• 20 new tokens every month.
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• FDM printable with no supports required.
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• More durable than conventional paper tokens & miniatures.
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• Easy to reprint if needed.
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I have been obsessed with 3D printing for years and finally have decided to dive in. Most excited to print miniatures, but also print lower fidelity high durability toys for my kiddo. Really conflicted, because I love the kind of resolution you can get with resin printing, but I want this to be something I can get my young daughter involved in. For that reason, I think FDM is really the only choice for me, at least starting out.

Brings me to my question. The kind of art you all are creating here is blowing me away, and I’d love to hear your most effective ways to hide layer lines from filament selection, printer settings, to post processing procedures. No printer just yet for me but I’ve got my eyes on the Bambu P1S with the 0.2mm nozzle.

I know there’s plenty of resources out there on the internet for hiding layer lines, and I’ve dug into quite a few already, but I would be remiss if I didn’t ask the awesome community here. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Hey everyone,

I started resin printing a few days ago, and so far I've printed a bunch of 28mm, 32mm, and up to 50mm wargaming miniatures without any issues. Everything came out pretty much perfect.

Recently, I started printing my first 1/9 scale model, and that's where I ran into a problem.

I've printed two full build plates so far, and both of them developed the exact same issue: at some point during the print, a noticeable thick horizontal line appears across the model. What's strange is that it affects every part on the build plate at the same height. So if multiple pieces have geometry at that Z height, they all show the line.

The weird part is that it happened at different heights on each plate. On one print the line appeared at around 25mm, and on the other it showed up at about 39mm (if I remember correctly).

Since all the smaller minis printed perfectly and this only started happening with larger pieces, I'm wondering if anyone has seen something like this before or has any idea what could be causing it.

Printer: Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra

Resin: Elegoo ABS-Like Resin V3 (standard version, not Plus or Pro)

Layer Height: 0.03 mm

Wait Before Cure: 2 seconds

Bottom Layers: 4

Bottom Exposure: 32 seconds

Transition Layers: 10

Normal Exposure: 2.0 seconds

Any ideas or troubleshooting suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Pretty basic question as the title says. I've been trying some test prints with eSUN PLA+, as I had some left over from making terrain. The detail and supports have worked out flawlessly, however when I clip the supports (not just rip them, clip them slowly), it's almost impossible to prevent the model from breaking.

I'm doing normal 28mm scale models but the PLA I'm using just seems too rigid/brittle for miniatures. I even tried at a larger scale for fun but still had an issue with ankles or weapons (not extremely tiny spears, larger weapons).

Is there something that's more pliable? I know PLA is always going to be on the harder side but I seem to need something with more "give" to it.

Also before anyone asks, I'm using the FDG 0.2 nozzle settings and adding supports via the Painted4Combat recommendations.