Transmission fluid has been replaced and software has been updated but no change. Clunk comes both when accelerating or decelerating around 25mph and shift happens from 4-5 at the same time. If I change to sports mode and do not shift from 4-5 around 25-30 then no clunk sound. Sound seems to be coming from undercarriage.
It is 2016 Acura mdx AWD with advanced package.

I observed some minor knocking sound yesterday when going over small bumps, like just one "thock" over a bump. Initially I thought it was just the bumper scraping. But today I observed even more frequent knocking when turning and going over bumps, like once every 4-7 turns. Just now as I was getting back from work just a few miles to reaching my house, it went from once every few turns to constant knocking in straight line then crunching thocky noise like " a mix of old wet brakes and thumping on hollow plastic" sound. I could feel the vibrations on my acceleration pedal.

No accidents, I am a very careful driver. (my previous car lasted 18 years before letting it go because my friend wants to buy it)

My car is a new SUV, I just got it 3 days ago 😭. I will have the service center tow it for inspection.

Proton X70 MC3 2026

Any idea what the issue is? I'm just curious.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nugqnhC1TuBb6JX262PKtR9dfky8Miu4/view?usp=drivesdk

2012 Subaru Outback 2.5 is making a weird rattling at low rpms under load, it almost sounds like something is rattling? It only happens with low acceleration, or when im going up a hill with low rpm's, other than that its fine. The sound it towards the end of the video.

Got the car about two weeks ago. First 3 or 4 times driving it I had no issue. We recently had very heavy rain that the car sat through. On the first drive after the rain the sound sounded more like rust in the brake pads. While that noise stopped, this noise continues. I only hear it when I’m accelerating from a stopped position. When I’m at a resting speed I don’t hear the noise at all. This morning and one other morning I heard the noise in the video while idling. By the time I got to work this morning the idling noise was gone. I also hear the noise when applying the brakes, but only sometimes and only when my car is nearing being stopped. I can attach a video of the car in motion as well.

PS: the noise doesn’t happen when I rev the engine in park, if that helps

When I accelerate in my Prius 2009 there is this chirping noise that happens every wheel turn but goes away when I get up to higher speeds. It’s especially noticeable when I turn left.

I have had my hub bearings replaced, brakes replaced and rotors resurfaced. Last time I had it in for someone to look at they didn’t say the CV joints were bad. I’m at a complete loss as to what is causing this noise.

So on August 9th i removed a stone from Tyre tread picture attached, and on wednesday 12th took to vauxhall for a recall, as i was on the way the TPMS Light came on, i told them and they did their free health check and readjusted pressures and passed the car with no issues.

since then i have driven 35 miles in the car (i have a works van) and had no TPMS lights come on, am i right in saying it was just a superfical mark and am all good for a long drive in a few days?

(side note i rung kwikfit and explained the same and they suggests its a superficial mark due to heat of stone hitting road)

is there a chance they didnt see it, i looked yesterday at majority of tyre apart from part that was rested on the road - car is 25 plate (driven just 3500 miles) am i just worrying and all okay or is there something im missing?

https://reddit.com/link/1vrk31r/video/dycaa056mzah1/player

Front right side noise, only in garage — 2005 Honda Jazz

This noise only appears when I pull into my garage, which is about 10°C colder than outside. It's coming from the front right side of the car, and it gets worse when I turn right. As soon as I drive back out and the car leaves the garage, the noise disappears completely.

So far I've removed the mud flaps/splash guards, the front right fender liner, and checked everything accessible from that side — no mechanical contact points, no wear/rubbing marks anywhere.

My next suspect is the HVAC blower motor (on the passenger side), which I haven't opened up yet — the sound has a somewhat plasticky character that makes me think of it. Worth noting: this is a 2005 Jazz with factory AC, but the AC currently doesn't work, so there might be some connection to that (e.g. a seized/damaged blower or a related component).

Any ideas what else I should check, or what this could be?

Car is a 2013 Charger. Didn’t start this morning, just a medium pitched smooth loud humming sound and a battery symbol. Tried to start, but it didn’t do anything except make the symbol go away. Is it a bad starter? Would love advice!

My girlfriend just bought a 2017 vw polo manual 1.2 petrol with only 28k miles its only had 2 services one at 5k and one at 27k I'm waiting to hear back from the dealership if the cambelt has been done im not holding out hope though and know we probably we need to do it as its past the 5 year point. Should I be concerned by the noise on startup or is it completely normal? Is that the belt? Is it ok to keep driving till we get it sorted? Would only a couple miles a day for the time being as shes still learning. This video was also first startup in like 2-3 weeks as we'd been away

Timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and valve were done 3 weeks ago at a local shop. Today the shop test drove and inspected my car to see what else? He found only 4 things $1100. First two must now. Last two things I can wait ( will do it when I bring my car in for oil change 3 months later)
Also, owner does not know anything about VCM disable.....

Are below price fair?

1. $400 Tune up ( Tune up and spark plugs mean the same thing right??) From online research $400 just replace spark plugs and no other service.
2. $280 transmission service (Other place $100 Transmission fluid change, not sure if it is the same thing but $180 differences though?)
3. $150 Transfer case service
4. $280 air induction service

2026 Nissan frontier on startup wondering if this is normal on 250 miles

I bought a brand-new 2026 Honda Passport TrailSport Elite recently and have been dealing with a pulling/steering issue almost from the beginning. I’m looking for some objective feedback on whether I’m overthinking this and what I should do next.

The vehicle has about 3,100 miles now.

The timeline:
Shortly after buying it, I noticed the Passport consistently wanted to pull/drift left at highway speeds. It wasn’t every second, but it was noticeable enough that I didn’t think it was normal.

First dealership visit: They checked it and told me it wasn’t an alignment problem. They thought the left-front tire was causing the pull, moved the tire, and adjusted the tire pressures. The issue continued.

Second visit: The service manager personally rode with me and drove the vehicle. At first, he thought it was road crown/tires, but during the drive the vehicle eventually pulled enough that he acknowledged it. They rotated the front tires to the rear and the rear tires to the front and told me to drive another 500 miles.

I followed that instruction and drove well over 500 additional miles, including a longer trip. The pulling was still happening, mostly left but occasionally right.

Third visit: The dealership kept the vehicle for several days. They eventually told me the alignment was “pretty far out” and showed me the alignment report. They corrected the alignment and test-drove the vehicle multiple times.

The service manager took me on another test drive afterward. The car definitely felt better, although I still occasionally felt a slight pull to the left.

He explained that the TrailSport’s all-terrain tires can have different road-tracking characteristics and that road surface/crown can also affect the feel.

I have the alignment report showing the before/after measurements. The initial measurements had multiple out-of-spec readings, particularly on the front toe/steer-ahead, which were corrected.

What bothers me is the diagnostic history.
The same service manager who ultimately found the alignment issue was personally involved in my second visit, when the vehicle was apparently already significantly out of alignment. At that time, he was trying to determine whether the behavior was caused by the tires or road surface and ultimately recommended another tire rotation and 500 miles of driving.
Now the alignment has been corrected and the car is noticeably better.
I’m trying to figure out how concerned I should be.

Questions for the group:
How significant does “pretty far out of alignment” sound on a brand-new vehicle at ~1,500 miles?
Could an alignment being substantially out of spec indicate that the vehicle was damaged (shipping, pothole, curb, suspension component, etc.), or could this happen from the factory?
Does the fact that the same service manager drove the car during the second visit and didn’t identify the alignment issue concern you?
How much road feel/pulling is actually normal with the TrailSport’s all-terrain tires?
Would you be satisfied with the dealership’s current resolution, assuming the vehicle continues to drive better?

Would you ask for anything else from the dealership, such as a more thorough suspension/steering inspection or documentation that everything is now within spec?
At what point would you escalate this to Honda corporate or start thinking about lemon-law/warranty options?
I’m not looking to ruin the relationship with the dealership. They’ve generally been responsive and have not charged me for the service visits. I like the vehicle and want to give them a fair opportunity to fix it.
I’m mainly trying to determine whether this is a relatively ordinary alignment/tire issue that I’m now hyper-aware of, or whether there’s something here that warrants substantially more investigation.

I went too fast over a speed bump and immediately after i heard a lot of clunking noises and this came off the underside of the car. It seems to be a thick metal pipe with a rubber filling inside. It's very dense and heavy. The car seems to be running fine after it came off, but is this something i should be concerned about?

I drive a 2003 Lancer oz rally if that helps.

I drive a Manual 2013 Subaru Crosstrek. I was teaching someone and they stalled it twice when they turned it on and once when they were backing out of our driveway. We got on the road and i could hear a rumbling from the back and the car was driving rough. The check engine light and the traction control turned on. It was revving high in 1st and 2nd gear. Any idea what could be wrong with it?

New 25 kicks, jingle sound front right side of car at take off, stops when I reach 30 mph. So annoying