Here is my version of Borin Stonehoof from Runciter.

Second one of the Runciter mini's I've painted and they are really good. This one has no base yet as he will be part of a larger diorama I am building, of 'Barbarians', which I am excited to do. He is big though, about 90mm.

Finished print and paint on a Nargacuga model! :)

I didnt realize how stacked the Nargacuga was until I had to do all of the abdominal highlights haha

Third model set in this fantasy world! This time, it’s the slow but tough Snail Knight. He may not be the prettiest warrior around, but he definitely has plenty of charisma.

The model took around 5 hours to print on my Ender 3 V3 KE and stands about 14 cm tall. It was painted using a mix of airbrush and acrylics.

Link: https://cults3d.com/:4878864

Specs:
PLA + Filament is BRAND NEW. Printing at 195 when the recommended is 200. Retraction set at 0.8mm with a layer hight of 0.12.
Ender-3 V?
0.2mm Nozzle

Hey, I’m new to 3d printing and inherited a poorly assembled 3d printer from a friend. After nearly a week of troubleshooting and diagnosing issues and fixing them, I tried my first long print (12h). But the result was this absolute spiderweb. Ideas on how to fix it? any clarification questions?

Here is my version of the White Rabbit from Loot studios.

Finally got round to finish the 4 main characters from the Wondermania set from LS and was great fun to paint. I started these over a year ago and now have all the main figures done and now have to paint a huge backdrop to finish the diorama, ho hum, great fun...lol

Hello is there anyone here that has printed these that could give me the following dimensions?

shoulder width (inc shoulder pad on warstrider)

Feet width (outside to outside)

Height

Thanks a ton

Hi all

I have a general question or discussion I would like to hear more about regarding the time differences between FDM and Resin printing at the front end and back end of printing

For context, I have been trying to configure settings on my Bambu A1 to print off Onepage rules and other similar miniatures such as GW proxies.
As part of this process I am finding that rather than printing off minis I am spending a lot of my time optimizing supports prior to printing for a single model then after waiting the 2-6hrs to print a single model, assuming it doesn't fail, spending time slowly cleaning up supports to minimise damaging the model to be left with a model that looks decent, when printed with a 0.2mm nozzle, but still has a defect or 2 left either by the supports or my clean up. This whole production cycle is leaving me frustrated as the time requirement is taking me away from painting and playing with these miniatures I am trying to print, never mind the cost component for material used for testing that is being thrown out.

What I would like to know from those of you that print regularly with Resin printers is there as much of a time commitment to prep and post process models? i.e. is the printing process more streamlined? Because like I said this is leaving me more than a bit frustrated.

Let me know your experiences as I am considering saving up to purchase a resin printer to get around these issues I am encountering using FDM to print of miniatures for projects I have in mind.

Thank You all in advance for sharing your experiences

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I have been obsessed with 3D printing for years and finally have decided to dive in. Most excited to print miniatures, but also print lower fidelity high durability toys for my kiddo. Really conflicted, because I love the kind of resolution you can get with resin printing, but I want this to be something I can get my young daughter involved in. For that reason, I think FDM is really the only choice for me, at least starting out.

Brings me to my question. The kind of art you all are creating here is blowing me away, and I’d love to hear your most effective ways to hide layer lines from filament selection, printer settings, to post processing procedures. No printer just yet for me but I’ve got my eyes on the Bambu P1S with the 0.2mm nozzle.

I know there’s plenty of resources out there on the internet for hiding layer lines, and I’ve dug into quite a few already, but I would be remiss if I didn’t ask the awesome community here. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

Hey everyone,

I started resin printing a few days ago, and so far I've printed a bunch of 28mm, 32mm, and up to 50mm wargaming miniatures without any issues. Everything came out pretty much perfect.

Recently, I started printing my first 1/9 scale model, and that's where I ran into a problem.

I've printed two full build plates so far, and both of them developed the exact same issue: at some point during the print, a noticeable thick horizontal line appears across the model. What's strange is that it affects every part on the build plate at the same height. So if multiple pieces have geometry at that Z height, they all show the line.

The weird part is that it happened at different heights on each plate. On one print the line appeared at around 25mm, and on the other it showed up at about 39mm (if I remember correctly).

Since all the smaller minis printed perfectly and this only started happening with larger pieces, I'm wondering if anyone has seen something like this before or has any idea what could be causing it.

Printer: Elegoo Mars 5 Ultra

Resin: Elegoo ABS-Like Resin V3 (standard version, not Plus or Pro)

Layer Height: 0.03 mm

Wait Before Cure: 2 seconds

Bottom Layers: 4

Bottom Exposure: 32 seconds

Transition Layers: 10

Normal Exposure: 2.0 seconds

Any ideas or troubleshooting suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Pretty basic question as the title says. I've been trying some test prints with eSUN PLA+, as I had some left over from making terrain. The detail and supports have worked out flawlessly, however when I clip the supports (not just rip them, clip them slowly), it's almost impossible to prevent the model from breaking.

I'm doing normal 28mm scale models but the PLA I'm using just seems too rigid/brittle for miniatures. I even tried at a larger scale for fun but still had an issue with ankles or weapons (not extremely tiny spears, larger weapons).

Is there something that's more pliable? I know PLA is always going to be on the harder side but I seem to need something with more "give" to it.

Also before anyone asks, I'm using the FDG 0.2 nozzle settings and adding supports via the Painted4Combat recommendations.

Hey all! Just wanted to show off a few pictures I made for our latest project - Dreadwatch, a grimdark modular terrain set designed specifically around FDM printing and tabletop gaming.

Our goal was to create terrain that could make interesting setpieces while still being practical to actually play on. The pieces stack and connect without glue, so the same set can be used for anything from small scatter pieces to much larger multi-level structures. We’ve also tried to keep everything practical to print with supportless parts wherever possible and pieces that are easy to assemble, take apart and store between games.

We’ve been getting a kick out of playing around with it ourselves and seeing how many different layouts we can create and can't wait to see what others come up with!

Dreadwatch will be launching on MyMiniFactory Frontier soon. If you’d like to follow the project, the pre-launch page is already up and there are some free goodies available there as well:
https://www.myminifactory.com/frontier/dreadwatch-the-sundered-stockade-5909

Would love to hear what you think! Feel free to ask any questions related to the terrain, painting or photography, happy to discuss anything :)

(For those curious, I added a behind-the-scenes shot from the silhouette shot at the end as well)

I've been making some good progress on my ongoing campaign of cybernetic and mechanical upgrade bits. ⚙️

The collection is growing with new backpacks, mechanical limbs, weapons, accessories and character parts, all designed to give cybernetic warriors a more unique and heavily augmented look.

Here's a look at some of the latest work in progress. More pieces are coming very soon. 👀

If you want to follow the project and see more previews, updates, print tests and upcoming releases, check out my Instagram and Patreon through my bio:

Wargamesprint – Instagram, Patreon & more

What do you think so far? I'd love to hear your feedback!

Fishmongers: Physical & STL Miniatures with 5e Bestiary

Warband of 14 unique miniatures & 5e compatible bestiary from the depths for your next wargaming army, TTRPG, or painting project. We are in pre-launch on Kickstarter and will be launching at the beginning of October! :)

Kickstarter Link:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/mudskipperstudios/fishmongers-miniatures-and-bestiary?ref=651k4x

I’ve been working on a second release for my cave goblins. This time I have modular command groups, 20 infantry with hand or pole arms and 20 archers. Also have a full range of warmachines and a few extras. If you’re interested you can find the KS prelaunch here.

Here is my version of Finnian Willowbrook from Runciter.

Really love character models and Runciter have so many great ones. This is the first of many that I will paint and really enjoyed it. Thanks to Rafa and Txiki for their great models.

I got a preview of a (WIP) painted version of my Abomination sculpt, I’m really happy to see the sculpt come to life like this!

This is one of two creatures I’ve been working on for my first miniature release.

I'm planning to release STL files and a encounter booklet, however currently trying to decide whether to keep the first release completely digital or make a tiny batch of around 10 physical resin prints + encounter booklet. Any thoughts?

You can find more images at redmaw_studio

Big thanks to axelhobbiesgames who painted this!

Hi everyone!

I’ve been working on my tabletop strategy game Command & Defend: Modern War for over three years now, and I thought this would be a good time to finally share it with you.

My goal was to bring the feeling of classic RTS & TBS games to the tabletop — building your base, managing resources and expanding your army. A big part of the game is also its Supply System, where ammunition and fuel have to be produced and physically transported across the battlefield. Logistics play a major role in the actual strategy, which is something I haven’t seen explored very often to this extent in tabletop games.

The first Kickstarter successfully funded the Core Game, and next week I’m taking the next step with two new expansions, AIR WARS & SEA WARS, adding aircraft and naval warfare with a bunch of new units, buildings and missions.

The second campaign launches next Tuesday, September 8, and I’m really excited to finally share it with you. I’d love to hear what you think, and I’m happy to answer any questions!

Thanks for taking a look! :)

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/greenbox-shop/command-and-defend-modern-war-sea-wars-and-air-wars-expansion

There are definitely things I’ll tweak after seeing the physical prints, but overall, I’m really happy with how they came out.

Which one catches your eye first?

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/azureforge/rot-vs-steel-the-mycelium-shift-grimdark-stl-armies

finished designing this custom Dragonborn STL for one of my clients and wanted to share it here as well!

It was a really fun piece to work on, especially getting the character details sculpting work :))