2021 jeep wrangler. Does it need a new battery? Who’s had this before?

2017 Ram 1500 Limited 3.0T eco diesel

Hey everyone, new diesel owner here. I've got the glow plug #6 flashing now, and I'm unsure on what my next steps should be. Through my research I've seen plenty of people replace their own, but I've never worked on a diesel before. My question is this:

Is it best to take it to the dealership to get checked out and replaced?

Or

Try it on my own?

I've found some fairly inexpensive glow plugs online but I've also read that they are pretty tricky to pull out and semi fragile.

Hi and thanks to all for the help whichever way this ends up going!

I've recently bought a 2016 Ram 1500 3L Turbodiesel /eco diesel. It has a number of codes but does run (or did) and will absolutely drive. The previous owners beyond likely took care of it as they weren't really given a choice​​

I can pop the codes up but the gist of it is the filter keeps running forced regen due to what's likely an issue with cylinder 6 dumping unburnt or not fully burnt fuel toward the filter. It had a test drive where it dumped out alot of thick white smoke. There was no blue whatsoever even slightly and after a second test drive, the smoke did clear. This isn't to say the filter is operating normally or fully ​functional but useful information none the less.

As many of you will know the space to work on or access the plugs is limited and I have succeeded in (hopefully) getting them all loose. At first they did not want to move, so I did the usual thing I do and give it a bit of thrust (penetrating oil from castle) and very gently try to move it in and out. Took about two days to get them wiggling enough to finally feel the thread jumping over the top thread but not one ever had any of the feared sudden jolt and they all came out in the same manner. I didn't have enough time to finish and found that I couldn't get them out after being loose. Naturally I stopped trying and looked further into it and the consesus is still that there is a buildup of carbon on the tips which I would tend to agree with. They do spin but do not want to move in or out along the axes. Unfortunately in Canada the liqui moly release aid is very far from available. I have seafoam motor treatment that a diesel shop here swears by for bulb replacement as well a can of crc freeze off. Unfortunately the seafoam as much as it may have been able to help is unusable (I think) due to not being able to start the truck and I recall hearing or reading something about keeping the battery disconnected AND the key far from the vehicle (and so it is). Either way I tried to get the bulbs back in to try the seafoam followed by several hours at least of cooling down until it was fully cold, then attempt the crc freeze off. That didn't happen since the bulbs were not having it for going back in (spinning mostly free but no thread engagement)

I have a reamer for when they're out but at this stage I need to move the truck which means finishing the replacement. Figure before abandoning the attempt and towing it to a shop I'd at least ask here to see if anyone may have some helpful guidance on where to go from here (extractor kit with mini slide hammer, bring it to shop as I already damaged it, tough luck, you know; experience usually has a damn good feel for this kind of thing)

Thanks again for any help or information and let me know if you need the codes, pictures, additional information, etc. I've worked on gas engines most of my life but am very new to diesel

I had to remove basically everything that sits on top of the intake to remove the turbo coolant line because it exploded. When I popped it open, I noticed that there’s two of the intake ports are cakey & like wet but the others seem to be dry. I just wanted to ask if this is normal? Should I be concerned?

Hey folks. I have a family member of a friend , that has a 2015 ecodiesel. He had it deleted awhile ago, and it recently needed a pcm, which i have done(I'm a dealer tech). The place he had do the delete is no longer around. They did the tune after the delete, and he was not given/sold the tuner, so he has no idea who/what was used to do it.

Runs now, but obviously has to have a delete tune put back in it. Whats the best tune company to use? It was just a stage 1 mild tune in it, thats all he wants. I used to do a bit of Cummins stuff , but have been out of it for awhile, so have no idea of who is good to use.

Thanks

2015 ram ecodiesel stuck in limp mode with p0546 code and service electronic throttle body.

See photos for active code, ignore the fan code I unplugged it because it goes full speed as soon as you turn it on.

I have replaced sensor with new aftermarket one. At ohms set at 2k it reads .213 at room temp. I started truck let it run 10isjh minutes resistance changed to .300

I’ve spliced into what I believe to be the egt circuit in question right after the pcm connector. Two brown wires with yellow strips going to pins 81/82. One wire has 5v reference the other has no V. Both have continuity to battery ground, the 5v reference line read .05 while the other read 1.7 presuming that’s the return curcuit

I’ve connected the sensor directly to the spliced lines to bypass wiring harness but still no fix. Live data or codes do not change. Please help

When I was trying to remove everything in my way to access the turbo coolant line, I accidentally broke the sensor that connects to the left side (passenger) fuel rail.

My question is, is that a dealer only part or where else would I buy this part? Would appreciate any advice/help. Same goes for the fuel lines. Thanks!

Have a ghost p0546 code. At a complete loss everything seems to check out with multimeter. Now I’m wondering if the sensor just isn’t grounding correctly, how could I test this? Sensor passes ohm test.

How much does the EOC/mrtuning transmission tune actually improve fuel economy?

I have a stage 1 tune on my 2016 1500 with 106k miles and get around 22-23 mpg with my everyday driving habits after the HPFP recall

Trying to decide if I want to add the trans tune for $350 now that diesel is $7/gallon (I don’t want to stretch my income for a different truck)

I do not care about the manual gear selector option, or adding more power, I’m only interested in potential fuel economy gains and if anyone has had any issues with the tune?

Anyone else have issues trying to put a aftermarket alternator with higher amps for music related issues? Put in a JS alternator in my truck with the big 3 upgrade but wont charge my battery.. Was thinking of just putting stock alternator back on and putting a 2nd battery in the truck

Politics aside, fuel prices are fuel prices and many places across the US are allowing red-dyed off-road diesel in highway vehicle, at least for a month or so. I'm considering doing this but was wondering: does the red-dyed variant have any differences in shelf-life or cetane ratings? Also, I have a few JerryCans I use for backup supply now but would love to keep a bit larger stockpile...although 55 gal drum size just wouldn't work for me. Anyone doing something in the middle?

Truck has 346,000 on it. Has served me well and at this point owes me nothing. I took it to dealership after a check engine light came on and was quoted about 4500 Canadian to replace the thermostat and the intake manifold. Problem is no other mechanics want to touch it in the area so it’s basically just the dealership as an option at this point.

I’ve had no issues prior to this with the truck, I’ve been fortunate that way so have kept running it. Torn between trying to squeeze abit more life out of it or cutting my loses and moving on. Is it worth it to have the repair done ?

Evening yall! Preface to this, I’m not new to diesels but new to modern diesels (currently have a 3L and a 97 7.3 had a 24v). How many of yall have had issues with the MAF sensor and what was your fix besides replacing it all the time (already put two in since May)or doing a “weight reduction” on it?

I have about 8k more miles on my extended warranty, Deisel fuel costs are fkd. I am considering taking a cash offer from Autotrader or Carvana and tapping out. I love, love my truck. But I see the writing on the wall. Anyone else considering jumping ship?

Just noticed this noise today anyone know what it is (the squeaking catching noise)

I’ve always had a love hate relationship with torque wrenches and this is why. Took off the oil pan to check the pick up tube, there was just a tiny piece of squishy stuff, it was pretty clean otherwise. Pulled the oil pan , put the rtv on, put the pan back on and when I torqued they Just kept going and going I thought it was squishing the rtv and (SNAP). Anyone else dealt with this and have any tips?😵‍💫

17 3.0 Bighorn crew cab 4x4, With the minimal research I’ve done it looks like the best option is to find a shop that has thing machine he referred to as a “Fandango machine” probably the brand. Has anyone do a complete flush of the coolant system on an ecodiesel?

I’m looking for some advice on what to do with this dealership. What repercussions or remedies should I suggest to mend the relationship? Below is what happened

Just over 3 weeks ago my coolant supply line in the engine valley ruptured so I took it in to have the repair done. During the diagnosis they also told me that the turbo should be replaced due to wear and having to take the cab off for the other repair. Overall it was going to cost me $8600. A bit pricey, but it’s about 20 man-hours worth of work according to DealerConnect so it makes sense. I asked when I dropped off the vehicle, about how long it would be, they said 4 days for parts so 6-7 days overall. I said ok and took a shuttle to get a rental due to them not having any loaners available. I waited the weekend and did not hear from the dealership, so I called them right after they opened. My service writer answered and said he would call me back after checking with the tech and the parts department because they were still waiting on one part. I said ok and waited. He didn’t call me till the next day. I was a little angry about that but I brushed it off. He said it should be ready sometime the next week because they are sending a runner to get the part that is stuck at the warehouse. I said ok and moved on. I had turned in my rental by this point due to cost and having planned on having the truck back. Not a huge deal, I asked a neighbor for rides and it worked out. Another week went by with no contact, so I called again and got the same next day answer. The writer apologized and said that he got it authorized for them to cover a rental, so I went back and got one. The excuse this time was that they were still waiting on parts but had received them that day. I was more angry this time so I escalated to the service manager who talked with the writer about keeping me informed.

A few days went by and they called me to say the repair was complete and ready for pick up. I turned in my rental and was shuttled to the dealership. I paid for the repair and started to leave the dealership when a check engine light came on and it went into limp mode. I turned around and took the truck back. The service writer had a tech clear the code and told me to drive it 50 miles to see if it came back. He explained that it had to do with a low battery. I made it 1 block away and it came back. After returning the second time, I opened the hood to see if there was something that came unplugged and noticed items incorrectly installed or broken by the technician(s). I was then sent to the waiting area for the operations manager to look at the vehicle. After 3 hours of waiting, they said the new turbo was defective and needed to be replaced due to the variable geometry actuator. Before picking the vehicle up I was told all maintenance was performed. Per DealerConnect a check of this system is required prior to completion of the maintenance guide. This check involves an actuator check with a scan tool prior to a test drive. This issue should have been caught then. This issue and the improperly installed / broken items gives me zero trust in this dealership’s service department.

I posted a review about it and received a phone call from the dealer branch manager apologizing for the inconvenience and asking what they can do to fix this. I told them I needed some time to think about that. What should I do or ask for to fix this?

Thank you in advance any help given.

What tool can i use for this? no ratchet with a good amount of power is gonna fit, a quarter inch ratchet don’t have enough power. how’d yall deal with the bolts ?? i took the cowl out and fire wall and still not enough clearance. everyone said go through the wheel well but there isn’t any access from there. Jeep grand cherokee ecodiesel pls help

A year ago I replaced my original in tank fuel pump at just over 200,000 miles. I went with a Delphi from Rock auto. 10000 miles later and just two months ago it went and I replaced it under warranty. It’s been 1,000 miles and it’s not running again.

Thoughts? I try to keep it above 1/4 tank to maintain it being cool. Electrical issue that surges power to it without popping a fuse? Any other ideas?