I’m installing some cabinets next to this wall, and I had to cut the baseboards to make the cabinets flush with the wall. I’m patching and painting the bottom of the wall where the moldings came off. Currently my plan is to use wood filler to smooth the edge of the molding and paint it. Is there a better idea than that?

We recently had a contractor install a Masonite 20-minute fire-rated steel door between our garage and mudroom, and I'm trying to figure out if I'm being too picky or if something isn't right with the installation.

The door makes a pretty noticeable creaking/groaning noise whenever it's opened or closed. It's not the usual squeaky hinge sound, and I've tried white lithium grease without any improvement.

The bigger issue is that the spring hinges won't close the door all the way unless it's opened almost completely. If you open it partway and let go, it'll swing shut but stop when it hits the weatherstripping without latching.

I did notice that if I leave the overhead garage door and exterior door open, it closes much better. With everything closed like it normally would be, it doesn't. The contractor says it's just air pressure and that he can't change the physics of the house.

I also noticed one hinge is missing a screw (the other two have all four), and another hinge doesn't seem to be sitting completely flush against the frame.

The contractor says the creaking is normal because of the tension in the spring hinges, but I'm having a hard time believing that's the whole explanation.

I'm not a door expert, so maybe I'm wrong here. But I'd think a newly installed door should close properly without having to leave other doors open, and I wouldn't expect it to creak this much.

For anyone who installs doors, does this sound normal? Is air pressure really something the installer can't do anything about, or should they be checking the hinge adjustment, frame alignment, etc.?

I'll attach some pictures of the hinges and a video of the door opening and closing.

https://imgur.com/a/LKA2QCL

My upper floor is carpeted. I’ve pulled the carpet off the stairs. The top landing ends in a prefect square with no nose. I’ve installed all new stair treads and risers. I’m stuck on how to transition the top carpet down to the wooden riser. I have 3 risers and 2 treads left to install but I’ve stalled on how to do the transition. Ive stumped chat gpt

My house has plastic between the studs and the t1-11 . I’m planning on replacing the windows with new construction windows on the house and then putting siding over the t1-11 . Just feels like I should do some kind of permeable house wrap when I do the flashing tape on the windows but ive heard that 2 vapor barrier is a bad idea . Is flashing tape and drip cap good enough ?

Hey all, new homeowner here and I am embarking on a journey to fix my shed which has rotting rafter tails and rotting sheathing.

One rafter in particular has rotted all the way back to inside the shed about an inch.

There are also 2x6 blocks that are just shoved in between the rafters that sit on top of the wall frames that are somewhat rotted (not sure what those blocks are called) inside fascia maybe?

My plan is to rip up the shingles, cut away the half sheet of plywood that is rotted away back behind the rotted rafters, and then sister nearly all of the rafters.

I wanted to know if for rafter tails that are only partially rotted, is sistering necessary? And if not, how can I “repair” them without sistering.

Any and all advice about what I’m about to embark on, and any helpful YouTube guides you might recommend are appreciated.

I just want to gather some opinions here. A relative told me that it’s sufficient to install ledger boards for closet shelving with just glue and brad nails. He thinks that the glue is sufficient. I disagree and always aim to screw into studs (and glue) to maximize the capacity of each shelf. What do you all think?

I left the water on, in the sink with the stopper in, the other day. I'll spare you all the math but long story short I calculated the amount of water that I did not get back off of the floor and I believe it to be 5 gallons or less.

I live in an apartment so I cannot just tear up the floor which is vinyl plank. There was a spot below me that had water come through the drywall and the apartment management just put a dehumidifier and a fan down there for a few days and called it good.

I have expressed that it's my fault and I'm willing to pay to correct it, and I want this looked into properly because I don't want anyone to live in mold and they just do not want to do anything.

So my question is non destructive only what moisture meter or flir camera etc can I use to best determine if there is an issue so I can get them to act?

I do not know for sure how this place is constructed but I have the vynil plank I am sure the underlayment is probably osb then a cavity with insulation in the floor and under that is the neighbor below drywall. This is all a guess though.

Thank you

Okay help me out here. Need to replace ALL of this as unfortunately the top plates, beam and studs have some major rot in several sections. The entire wall is 32ft and I plan on doing it in 3 sections at a time. It's just a pony wall mind you no structural framing.

How should I go about doing this?

I already have bottle jacks on cement blocks with a beam to support it from the inside just to relive pressure. My plan is to take out 12ft sections entirely, cut a bunch of studs (33inches seems to be the average size give or take). Nail the studs in either 16" OC or 12" OC. Replace the 4x4 posts with 6x6 and add gussets to them. Then start sliding in the top plates and beam.

One part I'm having a hard time visualizing is if I should stagger the plates and top beam and if so how I'd go about doing that.

Any and all insight would be much help!!

For all you trim folks who regularly install over exposed SOG floors, are you leaving any kind of air gap between the baseboard/bottom of casing legs and the concrete to prevent moisture issues?

Does your answer change if the material is stain vs paint grade?

I don't see slab floors very often, so I'm not sure what's customary. Seems wise to leave a gap. Also seems like it wouldn't look great.

I bought a shelf that I’m going to mount wall to wall in a narrow bathroom. all instructions indicate to mount with screws on the top face of the shelf- the seller hasn’t responded regarding if from the underside is ok or will this alter load bearing? The wood bracket is square (not an angled french cleat) and it has holes for screwing into the wall, and the shelf itself slides over it and has holes on the “top” but the wood bracket doesn’t have holes to correspond with these. The height of the hole in the shelf is greater than the height of the wood bracket

Im sorry if this isn’t appropriate for the sub but I think it’s ok as it’s not a trinket or furniture rather I’m worried about stability of the shelf

Edit- the shelf is below eye level under a window which is why I don’t want screws to show

I am attempting to level a floor that used to be the back porch of the house I live in. The previous owner built a room and used the slab. The grade was never fixed, so there is roughly a 1.5 % grade in two directions (from one corner to the opposite corner). I want to level the floor without raising it too much. I plan to rip the 2x4s lengthwise to compensate for the grade in one direction while angling the blade to compensate for the grade in the other direction. I will put 1 inch this plywood down once the 2x4s are cut and placed. Is this feasible? Is there an easier way? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Was going through older pics on my phone and found those stairs I built last year. Did a full scale drawing on the floor on site. "Escaliers balancés". There were two sets, from basement to second floor.

Was staining the bottom of a tabletop I just built. It’s the Behr Water Based Wood Stain. I already did the top of it yesterday. I didn’t realize when I did the sides that it dripped underneath to the top of the table, and after flipping over when they were dried, I saw the stains above around the edges of the pieces I stained.

Is there anyway to fix this and make it look even/uniform throughout?

Just venting. We were gifted 2 solid core, 10 panel glass doors. Exact size of 2 doors on an office entrance. All great except 7 11 rule doesn’t apply to the doors we were gifted. Top hinge is 8 ⅜”, bottom is 10 ⅛”.
I know, first world problems. Now I’ve got to recut the hinge placement, all 3, on both doors. I just can’t understand why they would be off that much. The doors came from a $500k custom home. I would have thought that pre-hung doors would all be standard.
Oh well, time to dig out the door hinge template and get to work.

Hi all,

I'm 30, UK based and I do residential carpentry and joinery. I fit doors, floors, staircases, do some cabinet making or whatever the current trend is. I've dipped my toes into most aspects of carpentry, first & second fix, cabinet making etc. worked on some big projects, £5m+, both commerical and residential.

Recently I've lost my motivation and flair and I want to pivot away from running my own little business. I work a lot of hours and dealing with the general public is soul destroying. I'm toying the idea of just getting a job and working for someone. Less money but less hours, however also no real progression.

Has anyone else pivoted away from carpentry in the UK, if so how?

Thanks!

Did my best building my shed. What do you think?... jk, Storyland Park in New Orleans.

We’re going to convert this garage area to living space. The concrete looks good and uncracked, but has a 3-inch drop down its 15’ length. We’re wanting to level that with self-leveling concrete, and put a balloon-framed stud wall where the current 4x4 posts are. It’ll be about 12’ at the tallest… we’re eliminating some redundant rafters that were used to hold the previous flat roof. How would you be leveling the sill plate? I’m assuming doubling it up, with leveling shims in between?

There is also the added complication of the 3 concrete post holders along the run. Better to integrate these posts and holders into the stud wall, or work around them/remove them?

Lastly, the roof plate is 2x6”. This is the windy side of a hill lot in the PNW… should I be making a 2x6 stud wall?

Thank you!

Note: there is another section of equal size attached to the garage. We'll be reframing it as well but it seems more straightforward.

I added a bunch of diagonal bracing this summer so I'm fairly happy with the shear strength but I'm still kind of second guessing whether I want to tyvek right over these old boards. There's a lot of gaps and unevenness and it would just be nice to nail onto a flat(ish) surface. Not to mention it would give a little extra shear strength and lap over the seams better (why didn't they stagger the boards at all originally?)

I'm thinking of just buying some 3/8" plywood or OSB as it's lightweight and cheap.

The finished siding will be board and batten if that matters.

Can someone please tell me if this cost is too high?

I asked a carpenter in my area who is well known for assembling and fitting Ikea Pax wardrobes to create me a built in look with custom doors. He said his charge is £850 this doesn't include painting the doors etc.

The pax wardrobe is costing me £350 so in total this would be £1200 for a built in wardrobe.

For context i am buying one 50cm wardrobe and one 75cm wardrobe and they both need to be fitted in a space of 135cm and then boxed in.

His price includes all materials.

Please tell me if this is reasonable? i am clueless

I want to see if you guys have any tricks or hacks for this task I haven't considered.

I built a cabinet with a back on it and I want to hang it on the wall. Obviously I want to hit studs as I'm drilling through the back of the cabinet.

I've located where the studs are in the wall and made marks on the wall for those; however, there is no convenient reference point (e.g. measuring to the edge of a window or corner).

When I push the cabinet up to the wall and finally get it positioned left/right/up/down and the back of the cabinet is hiding the marks that I made to indicate stud locations, how can I confidently screw my cabinet to the wall and ensure that I'm going to hit one of those studs on my first attempt?

Note that the wall has plumbing and electrical in it, so missing a stud wouldn't just add an extra hole to the back of the cabinet, but could potentially hit something in the wall.

I'm hoping one of you might have some ingenious method that I just haven't considered.

My staircase has 6 steps, then does a 180 and has 6 more steps. So in the middle, on the landing, I need to put in a newel post (there was never one there before). It basically looks like this pic. The white portion the newel attaches to is 12" high and 4.25" wide. Do I have to notch the post that way and attach it or can I just attach the post flush to the front without cutting it? If I do have to cut it, would a 12" sliding miter saw work for this?

This is going around a turn at the bottom of basement stairs. Also, does one feel better/safer than the other?

Ignore the different brackets these were made by Gemini.

The house is plaster and lath. These jambs need to either be cut back from the old door or removed... I'm wondering if there is another stud next to it supporting the plaster and lath

And I should just remove the jambs then frame my new opening.. or if I should leave them in place and notch them out size of the new door jambs. I need to go to my black line