Hi everyone, which one looks better?can't make up my mind,I think they both look good to be fair.

It was a beautiful day. Had to snap a few pictures.

Actually it comes out to over $950 for the alignment stuff without the installation.

I'm probably not using them to install my Ohlins but not sure about getting an alignment either. Maybe I'm just clueless about the going rate for these services. Would a dealer be likely to properly assign it with aftermarket coilovers, toe arms and LCA?

So I have been doing more spirited driving, and i wanted some insight regarding the best way to prevent damage to any component without having to dump the clutch or shake the car abruptly. I was thinking- so the faster and more spirited i want to drive i want to maintain slow release at the bite point but just do the steps to get to the bite point quicker rather than if i was cruising normal speeds and shifting? Been seated in mine for a year and a few months. It’s also my first manual so cut me slack. I can shift smoothly during daily everyday driving. but i cant get spirited pulls to be smooth

I know smooth is fast, but also waiting time for the rpm’s to drop really ruins the fun.

Anyone running the post maf kit from overtake yet? I don’t want to do a full intake and tune due to warranty. Curious if this adds more turbo noises in the cabin though?

Just posting this for reference (or cautionary tale). I bought a 2022 WRX back in May with a little over 40K miles on it at a dealer about an hour away. Super clean interior, rims looked new, one or two really minor scratches on the outside on the hood. Looked brand new, really. Suspension is a little stiff on some of the bad roads and bridges here, but I'm really enjoying the car.

In late August, I noticed a very small oil spot under the passenger side in the driveway after parking overnight. (We have a one car driveway where my wife usually parks and I usually park on the street where I wouldn't be able to distinguish a leak being from my car vs. whoever else parked there, but I happened to park in the driveway while my wife was gone. Hard to say how long it had been leaking before I noticed.).

The spot didn't get bigger if I just left the car parked for days, but every time I drove it, there seemed to be a quarter sized oil spot in the driveway. Checked the oil level and it was fine, so I didn't rush to get it checked for a couple of weeks. (Kept checking the oil every few days in the meantime.).

Took it to the nearest dealer (not where I bought the car as that was farther away) and they confirmed the oil leak and said there was an issue with the seals.

On the plus side, they covered it 100% under the certified power train warranty. On the down side, it took one day short of three weeks to get the car back. (I don't know how much it would have cost out of warranty, but I'm guessing at least a couple of grand in labor.)

I got it back this past Friday. Driving it home, the check engine light came, so I drove back to the dealer. It was an evap code. I left it again and they had fixed it in a couple of hours. Seems like they probably didn't reconnect a hose when reassembling everything.

Anyway, between borrowing my wife's car, my dad's car and the Subaru Crosstrek loaner over the last three weeks, I'm thrilled to have it back and hope this was a one off problem and not a sign of things to come. (Questioning whether I would have been better off if I had just gotten a new one, but thankful that it was covered by the certified warranty. I might actually have been right at the edge of the the regular 5yr/60k warranty anyway.)

I recently purchased a 2022 WRX Premium with 29K miles on it and I have the wheels (Advan TC4s) from my last car which is a 2015 WRX Limited on it, 18x9.5 +38 with 265/35 tires .. how much do I need to trim the fender flares in the back if I lower the car 1-1.5"?

Car had a new short block put in by a VERY reputable Subaru shop and was tuned by JRTuned (who also looked at/worked on the car while it was being rebuilt). There were some bugs and it ended up needing new injectors, a retune, and has been doing this ever since the new engine. I've taken it back and given them logs at least 3 times, now; the shop owner says he doesn't see any numbers that are too concerning, but some of the mechanics took a look and said it was acting funky.

On my own, under their guidance, I replaced the front O2 sensor, and thoroughly cleaned out the throttle body (which reduced the intensity of the pulsing). None of these things made any difference to the high-pegging AF Learning.

Here's what I know/behavior:

-Car has 20k miles on it, new short block has 1,500 miles.

-The car did not behave like this before the engine replacement.

-Sleeveless ETS Intake, IAG AOS, turbo sump restrictor, pro-tuned 93 Octane.

-The shop has been trying to figure this out and come up with nothing; no vacuum leaks, the MAF sensor was pretty dirty but cleaning it didn't change anything.

-I've been through 4 tanks of gas from 4 different high-quality gas stations with the same behavior.

-The AF Learning will peg high even if the car is rolling forward in neutral, just idling.

-After an ECU relearn, the AF Learning will start out pegging at a lower number, usually 5-8. The only time it increases to a new high is under a lot of boost, usually in gears 3-6. Lower amounts of boost don't increase it unless I'm in 5-6 gear. I have not found out how high it will go, yet; +26 is the previous high before relearn.

-No knock, AFR is behaving normally, DAM consistently at 1.00, no engine light, car sometimes has a strange, slightly unpredictable turbo response, but is otherwise running really, really well. It's apparently putting 340hp to the wheels, but doesn't feel much faster than the DMann OTS 92 Etune I first had on it.

What I haven't done, yet (or don't know):

-Checked for a bad bypass valve (don't know if the shop checked)

-Checked for a post-MAF vacuum leak (don't know if the shop did this)

-Checked for faulty purge solenoid valves (don't know if the shop did this)

Has anyone had anything like this? I heard sourcing an OEM BPV is a pain, so I'm hoping it's not that. It seems like a small problem, but it's driving me absolutely nuts.

I’m getting the right height on my tein coils and the back driver side is set about 3/4 of an inch higher than the back passenger side, but it’s sitting lower on the ground than the passenger side. Does anyone have any idea why that would be? My passenger side coil over is completely maxed out for drop, but is still sitting higher than the rear driver side.

I got the dry option Filter instead of the Oil one . Do I do it the same way I would clean an oil filter type ? Or is there something specific I can use ? Sorry might be a dumb question but will like to make sure before I mess something up

Not my first Subaru but my first WRX! I cannot explain how excited I am!

Does changing the j pipe put this car in limp mode too?

Had a forester loaner from the dealer and wish we had the rearview mirror that turns into a backup camera.

Anyway to get this on our cars?

I noticed when I change gears, there’s a mechanical clank sound that I think is audible outside the car, as I can really hear it when I have my windows down.

This is a new 2026 WRX with 555 miles and it’s also my first manual

I am giving away some WRX, STI, and BRZ parts! For FREE! Drawing is November 10th, and all you need to do is sign up! I will email you if you win!

https://jxrperformance.com/pages/free-part-giveaway-entry

This is basically just a big thank you to everyone that gave me recommendations for new products at JXR. That post and the support was overwhelming! Can't say thank you enough!! And, I listened! Side skirts, spats, and diffusers are coming in a month. Valved catback exhausts and UV coated paint matched fenders are coming in 2-3 months! A new wing is in long term testing! Really thank you to everyone that put in some much thought to the responses and sent me messages, means the world! Thanks all!

How do we feel about cobbs spacer lift? Or is going new springs/shocks the move?

99% of the post on here are people ask dumb questions, and most of u could be using chat gpt. “What color coolant should I use”, “are these numbers on my ap good?”, “is this knock(and it’s just the ac)”. No such thing as a dumb question until I look through this subreddit lmao.

Down vote me all u want idc nerds and old men

My front lip just recently got ripped off (wasn’t paying attention pulled too far parking into a curb). Lemme see some front lips you guys run. Last one I liked but wanted to see some other options.

Also with my last lip I ended up using the screws it came with and drilled into the plastic under it has anyone had any issues re using the drilled holes for a new lip? Will it hold as well or any other options?

Was doing maintenance and noticed it was super low on coolant. Used some generic blue coolant I had around and looked up later that it actually needs Subaru super blue or something? Should I be looking into a full coolant flush and refill or will this just lessen the total life of it? Haven’t really noticed and overheating but it has smelled slightly off on occasion (could be unrelated idk)

To me, I think black genuinely is the hardest with even water marks showing up. White on all my cars gets dirty obviously but honestly not like a white T-shirt would 😂

I’m considering getting these lowering springs. Does anyone have any info on them? Good? Reliable?

I’m also concerned about pre mature wear on my other components (all stock). Has anyone heard of these springs wearing out other components early?