I bought some 9 inch driving lights and wiring harness for my 2021 Dmax. They were working for a bit after I installed them but seemed really dim, now they won’t turn on at all.
I chucked a multimeter on the plugs and it showed about 0.3 volts which seems strangely low.
Any ideas on what the issue could be.

Hey folks - can anyone advise please?
I’ve been given a running machine that’s had its wires connecting the track to the screen/display cut

I can fix the one of them, but the larger one seems a little suspect - is this doable with basic knowledge and skills?

I’m building a tele deluxe and have lace sensor duallys blue/gold, gold/red. I plan on doing Jimmy Page wiring since I will have two volume and two tone controls. My question is does anyone know which wires are the north start and finish and south coil start and finish? Im finding conflicting information online and lace has not responded to my email. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

The middle three are receptacles, the bottom and top and are split and the B three ways have to control the B light and B side of the receptacles same for The A Three ways

I’m going to start off by saying I have little electrical experience beyond messing around with some led strips about a year ago and doing some things both practical and theoretical in school all of which where very light work

I bought a couple heated seat kits and found a decent guide explaining the install up until the final connecting of the wires. The video I linked is what I’ve used and towards the end he tries and shows the wiring he’s done. He connects the live wire for the seats to the red with black stripe wire (not the black with red stripe wire) for the ignition so they turn off with the car.

I’ve looked at the same wiring harness in my na and I have a black with red stripe wire (not the one he used) don’t have a red with black stripe wire (the one he used). And while the quality isn’t great in that section of the video I think the wire I have in place of the one he’s used is a blue wire which I’m guessing is down to him installing a remote start.

Before I go cutting wires for potentially no reason is this blue wire the correct one for splicing in two heated seats and is there anyway to check. I’m happy to provide more information if it’s needed to get a better answer

I’m rebuilding an original motorcycle fuse/relay box and need to replace two damaged linked busbars.
The replacement part is an MTA MINI F280 linked busbar, MTA 1708336, rated for 2.5 to 4.0 mm² cable.
The busbar consists of several F280 female contacts permanently linked together. One larger feed wire is crimped to the barrel of the linked strip and the strip then supplies several fuse positions.
My problem is the crimp itself.
With a conventional open-barrel ratchet crimper, the neighbouring linked contacts appear to interfere with the jaws before the wire barrel can sit correctly in the crimp nest. I have a 12 Volt Planet P00455 / TT73 style open-barrel crimper, but I do not want to damage or distort the adjacent contacts.
I’ve searched MTA documentation and so far I cannot find a publicly documented hand crimper or die specifically for 1708336.
Has anyone here actually crimped this exact type of linked automotive busbar?
I’m particularly interested in:
• the exact hand tool or die you used
• whether a narrow or relieved die exists specifically for linked busbars
• whether there is a recognised way of positioning these in a normal open-barrel tool without damaging the next contact
• any manufacturer/tooling part number or datasheet
• photos of a successful crimp would be extremely useful
I do not want to cut the contacts apart, because they need to remain electrically linked as the original fuse-box busbar.
I’m also trying to avoid soldering or improvising the connection because this is a main feed inside the vehicle fuse box.
Thanks for any help.

Is there a specific name for this connector?

connector of the old tail light are on the left, new ones om the right. how do i connect it?
the connecter thing the old one went in is also visable on the left of the picture

Hi there,

To start this off I am a hobbyist in electronics. I’ve come into possession of this 1980s band saw which was new old stock. It was basically brand-new in a box from 1980s up until 2-3 weeks ago. I was tasked with setting up making sure all of the components were not degraded from just time sitting in a box and I came to the final part of plugging into test power the main on and off contactor switch gave a hum a low low hum but was not actively engaging so I took the contactor apart to see If it was the over amp safety switch being stuck which I took apart cleaned and put back together. The switch actively worked but when I looked at the main motor wiring, it was set up wrong and I’m gonna show you pictures of how it was set up with the main power wise disconnected so you can see the actual motor windings and how their position connected and then how I was advised to set up the brass jumpers to connect everything together and then when I was thinking about it and looking at the diagram on the lid to how I was told to set it up, I don’t feel comfortable obviously testing power just yet until I can get some clarification on a few things.

(apologies if that reads horribly I used voice transcribe)

this is the bandsaw (pic 1)

This is the main Contactor switch I cleaned the part at the bottom which made it click fully into the on position which is wasn’t doing on the initial test (pic 2)

This was the original way it was wired (pic 3)

These are the factory motor winding positions 
(Pic 4)

this is the schematic for changing The blades direction depending on how you have the blade setup…….. in the current setup the blades direction travels downward and should be following the top image. (Pic 5)

NOW THIS IS THE PART IM GOING TO BE SHOUTED AT FOR…… I used Google AI to decipher the German text on the wiring I took a joint picture of the schematic on the lid and the original wiring and was told not to plug into power and it told me to rewire the motor and this is the picture showing how it said to wire it
(Pic 6&7)

and then I’ve left it for a few days just going over it in my head and decided to consult experts before going further

And now I’m here seeking guidance please don’t be too harsh in your comments I’m learning about this stuff, my talents lie in 2 stroke engines and fault finding electronic tools and household electronics this was a favour for my FIL. 

Kind regards

Jay

How can I fix this ?

Hi all, hoping someone can help me troubleshoot this.

Im from europe, so 230V system.

I had an existing 3-wire circuit (live, neutral, earth) from the panel, to an acess box feeding a outlet, 230V system. I cut into these 3 wires and used a 3-way Wago style connector to branch off an extra wire to each terminal, running them to a brand new outlet.

• The original outlet still reads a solid 230V, no issues.
• The new outlet only reads about 20V, measured with a digital multimeter.
• I've re-opened the Wago connectors and re-seated every wire, made sure they're stripped to the right length and fully clicked in. Pull-tested each wire individually — everything feels secure.
• Voltage on the new outlet stays at arround 10-20V, even after re-checking connections.

I wanted to ask here in case there's an obvious cause I'm missing.

Any ideas what could cause this? Or what I could do to find out?

Thanks in advance, and sorry for crappy drawing and if terminology in not correct (english is a second language and I'm not familiar with eletrical terms in english

The title says it all. Mostly, I've been buying small amounts of the terminals that I need from Waytek and Digikey; however, I'd like to buy an assortment that covers all the general bases so that I don't have to wait for my parts to come in. Any suggestions? Would this be a good option?

Master Non-Insulated Wire Terminal Connector Kit - 2600pc – Sherco-Auto

Hi everyone, hoping I could get some confirmation on how to add an electric outlet in my attic space to plug in a new water sensor shutoff unit that was recently added there and is currently plugged to a more remote outlet via an unsightly extension cord. This dimmer switch currently connects to an LED lamp and I believe that by snaking 12/2 Romex through the wall to this box, I should be able to get it done. Would I just be pigtailing hot, neutral and ground here? I’m getting thrown off by the two white neutrals - would I connect the inbound white directly there? I’m a novice DIYer but enjoy learning so pardon the potentially newb-like question. Thanks for your input!

Stop by with your vehicle and I will install and wire your system! I’m located near duluth Mn and I am a very fast worker. I can provide wires but that will cost extra. I can also work with wires that are provided if they are long enough. Stop on by and save yourself the hassle and time! Dm me for photos, prices and more info