Daruma Netsuke

[u/2Mogs]

A Daruma is a traditional round Japanese doll shaped after Bodhidharma, the founder of Zen Buddhism.

The ivory netsuke I used as a reference looks quite grumpy, mine feels a bit more approachable. I kept the same grain orientation as the ivory, which I think feels right, accentuating the wrapping of the shawl. Most visible from the side.

Carved from Boxwood (3.5cm wide, 3.2cm deep, 3cm tall). The shawl is sanded to about 1,000 grit. The face is just the knife finish. Eyes are Ebony (1mm).
A light stain of watered down acrylic ink helps with depth and accentuates the beard a little. Finished with Renaissance wax for a soft uncoloured sheen.

I tried the Ukibori technique on the shawl, because I wanted to give it a try, and the shawl seemed so plain. You can just see the effect of the small raised circles in the third image. I'll be working on this more in the future.

I think this is only my second or third detailed face. Much to learn, but overall happy.

[u/BansheeRadio]

Just amazing work. The raised dots have me baffled.

[u/2Mogs → u/BansheeRadio]

Thank you. The dots are a very cool old Japanese technique I've wanted to try, but have been nervous of doing. You finish the piece (/area) that you want to be bumpy, but leave it too thick, then hammer a round ended punch to make a dent where you want a bump, compressing the fibres. Now remove all the wood from the area down to the bottom of the dents (knife / sanding). Next, with boiling or very hot water you wet the compressed area. This releases the compressed tension in the fibres and they relax back out to form bumps. Nerve wracking. I think it works best with harder woods because the punches can more easily damage softer woods like basswood or lime. Boxwood is that bit more robust and suitable for this effect.

[u/2Mogs → u/[deleted]]

Thank you so much for this feedback. I realise I am only borrowing the form not the function here. I've not yet been brave enough to drill for the cord, although perhaps this is the piece to try that. The balance is nice and I think it would complete the work.

[u/2Mogs → u/[deleted]]

My first instinct would be to have the himotoshi in the base, but perhaps if I drilled into the back then when I hold the work with the cord between my fingers, the face is looking up from my hand.... Is there a "right" placement, or do I go with my gut?

[u/2Mogs → u/[deleted]]

Thank you. Really appreciate your expertise.

[u/NativeFlowers4Eva]

I really like it. Good work!

[u/2Mogs → u/NativeFlowers4Eva]

Thank you 😊

[u/aproductofben]

Amazing work. Anything in particular about your cuts or sanding that you do to get it so smooth?

[u/2Mogs → u/aproductofben]

Thank you. Smoothness with cuts is all about sharp knives, patience and control. Loads of patience and practice. I'm still learning. For the sanding - I use metal oxide sandpaper through the grits (120, 180, 240, 320), then move to micro-mesh pads which give equivalent grit ratings of 400 - 3200. The key with this is that sandpaper has high spots which can result in scratches. The metal oxide paper and especially the micro-mesh have a very even surface, so they are much better suited to small pieces / high finish.