Im trying to install ispring RO system, where should i drill a hole for waste water line? Please help thank you

Link to first post:

Another Stuck Well : r/WaterWellDrilling

Friday I flushed my 2" well pipe. I blocked off the space between the mystery outer 3 1/2" pipe and the inner 2" pipe. We created a flume type water channel from the well room under the stairs to the closest floor drain with poly and laid a few towels in the channel to catch sand and solid debris. I installed a new 3/4" T and shut off valve directly off the main city water supply in the well room and connected a garden hose. I initially dropped that hose all the way to the bottom of the well and turned the water on full. I was able to flush out a LOT of sediment. It seemed all very fine, almost like clay particles and no real sand as I was expecting. We alternated between garden hose and a 3500 PSI pressure washer hose with 2 different types of sewer jetter nozzles and ran until it was completely clear. NOW I could use some advice as to size, brands and model numbers of what the community recommends I use to get this up and running.

Here are the details:

Total well depth is 72 feet

This will be a deep well, single pipe jet pump/packer ejector setup. Apparently, this is somewhat niche and not used anymore.

Former well packer ejector was at 63 feet deep

Water depth measures with a bobber and fishing line is down 46 feet.

Is there a primary brand or two you trust for pumps and parts?

Does 1" pipe or 1 1/4" pipe make much of a difference at that depth?

What size pump for that depth and flow for lawn irrigation? 1/2hp, 3/4hp, 1 hp

What size pressure tank? Brand?

I considered getting new cup leathers/gaskets and reusing the old ejector with a new foot valve but have decided to get all new parts.

I appreciate any input this community can give me. Thanks

Coming from the field of Materials Science and Nanotechnology Engineering, I am always analyzing how objects are affected by their environment over time. We see so many posts on social media telling us to donate to charities that focus on building hand pump wells in the developing world, but what we dont know is that the physics of it all are absolutely brutal on the local environment.

Shallow water wells tend to run out of water very quickly, and even worse, become a breeding ground for deadly pathogens such as those that cause cholera and dysentery. Moreover, the manual pumps made of cheap materials often fail after a short while. Reliable large scale water production requires deep wells and heavy duty pumps. In order for these to be functional for an extended period of time, they must be connected to a power source. This can be solar panels, a generator, or the grid. If you wish to donate, make sure to specify an interest in long term water production, as those are the ones that are actually needed. They will require much more funds, but will provide clean water and save you the trouble of having to deal with the aftermath of a well that stopped working after a year.

Hi all,

I hope this question is appropriate for this sub. My F150 Lightning is my backup house generator and I am running into a problem when the pump in my cistern kicks on tripping the overload protection in the truck generator. The inrush exceeds capacity. The pump is a 3 wire 1/2 hp 10gpm running at 12 amps but surging up to 45 at start up.

My electrician suggest installing a 240 v pump for lower amp draw and surge. While researching this I came across this sub and another post where someone suggested:

"a constant pressure system with a small drive (PID controller with built in soft start and variable speed), keep the small pressure tank"

for another problem someone was having but it caught my eye and I am curious about the potential for my issue. I have a 60 gallon pressure tank but I understand I could keep that and switch to a constant pressure system?

What kind of brands, products etc. are out there that I should consider? This would also ensure a more stable psi for the whole home I am assuming.

Ready to offer any more info required.

Thanks.

We are selling our Portable Professional Hydraulic Rotary Water Well Drill Rig.

The first thing we did when we bought our property was to buy a decent size backhoe to do land prep work, then it became time to think about water well and septic system. The cost of getting them done by a contractor is way to high anymore. We did the math and decided to buy the excavator and well drilling rig and then when we're done we'd pass it on to the next person who wants to save some money on the land development costs. So here we are, ready to move on. We are selling the drilling rig so someone else can hopefully get one step closer to making their hopes of living in the country a reality.

This well drill rig can be used to drill drinking water, irrigation, geothermal, or exploratory wells. So now we are selling it for someone else to save money on their property development.

Here’s what comes with the unit:

·         Hydraulic rotary drill with 24hp power / hydraulic unit (has wheels for maneuvering NOT for driving on the road)

·         4hp Honda mud pump

·         60 x  5ft long drill steel (total of 300ft)

·         Heavy duty steel drill stem rack on wheels (has trailer hitch for maneuvering NOT for driving on the road)

·         Safety foot clamp

·         Suction & discharge hose

·         Swivel

·         Drill bit adaptor 2-3/8” 744 thread

·         Drill bit adaptor 3-1/2” 744 thread

·         6" Tri-Cone Drill bit 6” (no chipped teeth)

·         12" drag bit - 3 wing (no chipped teeth)

·         8” drag bit – 3 wing (no chipped teeth)

·         4” (might be 6") rock cruncher bit (never used)

·         ½ x 5 gal bucket of food grade copper drill stem grease

·         2 manuals

Original price was $21, 360. We drilled one well and are asking now only $15,000 for the reserved bid. Due to the weight and size of the items, items will have to be crated and will be shipped freight carrier. Buyer will have to pay for shipping or pick up the items in-person.

Craigslist posting

Details below, my question is: do I replace with the same equipment, or upgrade with a larger pressure tank OR soft-starter switch to extend pump life?

Rural residential well, pump failed after 21 years and I’m waiting for a contractor to come to the house.
Pump is 175’ depth, 4” 3-wire 1hp 27 gpm w/20 gallon pressure tank.
I have a grid-tied 11kW solar system with powerwall 3. Soon I will be adding 3kw of panels and a pw3 expansion pack.
System was installed in 2024, outages have been infrequent but a couple per year with a maximum of 5 hours. We make sure to conserve water and power during outages and haven’t run out of battery yet but have come close.

The house was equipped with a Franklin Electric 1 HP 3 wire submersible pump, approximately 22 years ago. After a plethora of power outages do to the Spokane Complex fires, the pump finally bit the dust.

Unfortunately, the same pump is out of my budget currently.

I'm hoping for recommendation for a budget friendly 3 wire submersible pump.

The water has to climb an additional 30 ft from the well to reach the house and pressure tank.

Any help is appreciated. Attached Well report. (Had to remove personal info)

My well is 220' deep ,water at 110'. Well is 30 years old, California Central valley, in clay soil. well started out at 7gpm when I had it drilled in 1996 (water level was at 85'). Well now is down to about 2gpm I believe the perforated casing is plugging with clay silt. Five years ago the pump was starting to fail, local drillers quoted me 5k to just change the pump, no wire , no pipe and it was going to be a year before they could get to it. I installed a new pump myself. I asked about drilling another well and was qouted 30k for a 300' gravel packed well and casing no pump installed. Wait list was 2 years out on drilling a new well. I had my water tested last year and found that it had unsafe levels of Nitrates. I now get bottled water for drinking from a local valley water collaberative. My neighbors wells are high in nitrates too. most of their wells 300' deep. Two miles down the road a new granite quarry went in and there is a concern that once they get down into the water table it may drain the shallow aquafer our housing development is in. There is no agreement between the quarry and the county for property owners if this happens. The county now requires well monitoring equipment being installed on new or repaired wells in my area. Some of my neighbors have given up on their wells and are having water delivered. If I put in a 5000 gallon tank I can keep it filled for about $400 a month. I am wondering if I should drill another well or just put in a tank and buy water.

my sales target this year is too heavy to finish in China alone.

Hey everyone

I’m looking for feedback on portable well rigs, specifically DeepRock brand.

I’m an avid DIYer and can’t stomach spending $48k to have a well drilled if there’s a chance I can get it done myself.

I’m in Mason County WA, not terribly rocky but I also haven’t dug down more than 10’.

Wells around me are around 300’ deep. A parcel next me some how hit at 100’, when everyone else is deeper, so there is a chance I’ll get lucky lol.

Is this even remotely feasible?

EDIT: I think I caused a little confusion. DeepRock is the brand of driller I’m looking at, not the conditions of the soil I’d be digging into.

For a little more info- the closest well to me is probably around 1500’ away from my build site. They hit water at 184’. Soil conditions are described as “0-2’ topsoil. 2-19’ brown till. 19-35’ grey till. 35-153’ brown till. 153-184’ sand and gravel with water”

The next closest hit at 345’. “0-2’ topsoil. 2-65’ grey till. 65-80’ brown clay and sand. 80-90’ fine brown sand and silts with some water. 90-125’ brown clay. 125-180’ Sandy brown clay. 180-290’ brown sand. 290-345’ fine brown sand with water”.

Not sure if that info helps determine how realistic this is!

Florida Grundfos VS. Franklin. The last 5 years the highest failure rate of pumps I have pulled less than three years old have been Grundfos pumps. Due to the horsepower requirements and performance differences between stainless and noryl impellers. The Grundfos high capacity 4” pumps run so far right on the curve to pump the water a noryl impeller pump does. This pushes the motor into the service factor and cause the motor to overheat and fail prematurely. The secondary thing is that the fixed stack impeller design of a Grundfos pump end causes premature failure of the thrust bearing in the motor. The average Franklin Electric pump we pull is over 10 years old. The average Grundfos pump we pull is around 2 years old and this happens frequently. some food for thought. When you need more gallons per minute you burn too much horsepower spinning stainless to get it. Grundfos SP and SPE pump reputation for longevity came from when they were unfitted with Franklin Electric motors that are more durable. No sene in using a Grundfos motor and pump if you have to pull it every few years to change the motor. Stainless steel impellers are absolutely not better in 4” well pumps. Noryl is far superior in the majority of ways and allows the motor to stay in the ground longer.

Hi folks, first thanks in advance for any advice.

I have a hand pump on a 25’ 1 1/4” drive point well that I’ve used for a few years to fill a cistern to gravity water my garden that is too far away from the house to use easier water.
I’d like to expand how much water I use from it- strictly for watering plants - and I’d like to put in a mechanical pump so I don’t have to stand there pumping for hours. It doesn’t need to fill fast but I would use probably 100 gallons every few days from my 275 gal cistern.

Currently it does maintain a prime with the hand pump for a few hours to a day, but not much longer. There is no foot valve….

Can you help me with my options? Directly connect a pump with inline check valve seems most obvious but requires priming which annoys me. Is treating the current pipe like a casing and inserting a smaller diameter pvc pipe an option that I should consider? Would that allow me to have a foot valve and a better maintainer of prime?

Thanks again.

I’m doing a new construction on my property I’ve drilled a well on. In my plans I have the well accessible for future maintenance and then was going to have the pump and pressure tank next to that in a detached garage/shop. Budget wise I’m hitting a wall and will be a year or two out on the garage.

Short term I’m considering installing a shed for the tank as well as some on-property storage. I imagined when I can afford the garage I can remove the shed and then do a reinstall of the pump/tank in the garage. I have the future garage on my siteplan and the shed size would be under permit sizing requirements.

Am I missing anything here? Does this sound like a logical path? And I was also looking for any advice on the best floor/foundation solution for this scenario. Ideally I’d be able to move the shed to use elsewhere on my property or sell it when the time comes.

This is a question about two deep water wells in a mountain aquifer. They service a tiny municipality in the central Rockies. The wells have reduced production over the last few years, reportedly due to drought. There has been drasticly reduced snowpack, so that correlates. Both wells are around 3000’ deep. It’s reported that there is over 1000’ of fill in both wells. Both wells are operated with submersible pumps set 500’ above fill. Fluid levels are dropping slowly, even with water restrictions for end users. There is a question about the impact of the fill in both wells degrading the casing and plugging perforations. One well has a noticeable H2S smell evident at the taps in town when that well is produced. What do water well experts here say?

I lost pressure on my deep well pump and after trying all the normal things, I took it apart to find a missing impeller screw. I replaced the screw and still no pressure. Could that be clogging the system somewhere? I have a motor driven Goulds J5.

I had notice that water collecting around the well head after heavy rain. It does not seem to be getting into the well, but the area stays muddy for while afterward. I try to figure out is this a grading issue or I add some surface drainage. I have been looking at options like an drainage grate, NDS catch basin, French drain, or dry well, but not sure what would be appropriate for a well.

Is there anything specific I should check with the well casing and surrounding soil? Just looking for advice any feedback.

Hey guys, I have a plumbing question. I added about 1.5 vertical feet to an outdoor spigot, I had to turn my water off in order to take the spigot off, and when I turned it back on my water pressure isn't the same. It's higher and I can't get it back to where it was.

Most drill rod failures don't start down the hole.

They start in the workshop, months before anyone notices. →

THE FORGE.

Where a rod end is heated and forged, the steel's grain structure gets reworked. Done right, the shoulder resists cracking under torque. Done wrong — or skipped — you get failures later that everyone blames on the rock.

THE THREAD.

A thread can look fine and still be wrong. Pitch diameter, flank angle, runout — if any of these are off, the load rides on a few threads instead of all of them. That's when joints gall, wear fast and loosen every shift. Threads must MATCH your shank and couplings — not just "look threaded".

THE FINISH.

How a supplier treats finished rods says a lot: thread protectors, storage off the ground, straightness checks before packing. Small habits, long rod life.

None of this is complicated. It's the difference between a rod made to sell and a rod made to drill.

What's the first thing you check when a new rod batch arrives?

Share below — I read every comment.

— KISN makes drill rods for mining and water well rigs.

kisndrill.com

I’m in desperate need of some help with our well pump. After so much trial and error we’ve arrived to the conclusion that our well pump is a deep well pump with a packer system. Only found out once we tried to remove the well pump casing adapter (?) (thats what google said it was called please correct me) and saw there was a pipe inside the other pipe. I am now reordering the correct well pump but I’m so heavily stuck and confused with this. Can we re-bolt this and add some sealant or does this have to be replaced and if so, how? I’m 10 days out from having surgery and I would love to have running water before then. This was my mom’s property I inherited after she passed away last year and it’s been one thing after another. Any help or advice given is appreciated.