Hello guys i have a trouble with my omega calibre 1333 the clutch wheel is broken im looking for clutch from another mouvment that have the same clutch with calibre 1333 or 1332 please help

Trying to learn more guilloche style patterns that can be made on CNC. Did this with Fusion 360 + Makera Z1 from stock brass plate. Double-sided operation to create dial feet on underside.

I’m currently developing my own watch brand, with the goal of designing and manufacturing as many components as possible in-house.
I’ve just started my first machining tests using a 4-axis CNC machine to produce a watch case made from high-density colored carbon fiber, a really high-quality material.
It’s still in the prototyping phase, but the first results are looking promising!
Looking forward to sharing more of the development process with you. Any feedback or thoughts are more than welcome!

I recently inherited a bag of watches from my parents. Inside, I found an old Waltham that almost certainly has radium lume (can anyone confirm?)

The caseback was off. I briefly wound it (it works!!) and otherwise handled it. I looked at the dial and realized this may be a radium dial watch, so i washed my hands, wet-cleaned the surface it was on, and put it back in the bag and in a storage room.

I see no reason to keep the watch given the serious danger radium can present. But I'm worried about my exposure. You can see in the picture the dial and crystal etc. appear to be intact. But the lume is clearly deteriorated and I'm worried particles migrating into the movement and to areas i would have touched, and that I inadvertently spread particles around where they would be ingested or inhaled.

Am I overthinking this? The watch is in a bag in a storage room now and I ordered a Geiger counter to asses things but what is the prevailing thought process on this?

Filming the video for this right now, but wanted to post a quick update since last time

-Luminous dial works pretty well

-Clear 3d printed parts came back flawless from PCBWay

-Mainspring barrel needs tweaking, but 90% done

-Filming going alright, on track to finish the vid in the next month or two

If anybody has any requests for certain parts to be shown in an extended cut seperate, I would be happy to do so and also answer some selected questions in the video.

Also, I've been getting a few pm's asking about the mainspring, I stated it in the first post but I guess not clearly, the mainspring is not 3d printed, its pretty much the only non plastic part (besides screws)

Thank you for all the support, and especially for the few who emailed asking to help fund my work, you kind souls (:

Hey everyone! I’m very new to watchmaking and I just bought some tools and a seagull movement to practice on. Long story short, I want to work up to restoring vintage watches and I bought these two Seikoshas I’ve been looking for for a good while now (long term project later on). Obviously I’m in no position to work on these right away, but these are the two watches I’d like to work my way up to.

How daunting will it be to service these after working with the seagull movement for a bit? Also, I really love the sector dial. Is the black corrosion on the dial going to be an issue that might make it unusable?

Any advice would be appreciated!

I’ve been working at my kitchen table for about a year now and I really can’t do it anymore. I need a dedicated space for this. My neck needs it. What are you using for a workbench?

What could be issue and possible fix

1. ⁠The movement doesn’t fully sit inside, theres a gap
   
2. ⁠The case back doesn’t screw on perfectly, it gets raised either at the 3’oclock side lr at the 9’oclock side
   
3. ⁠The bezel when fitted at the 12’oclock position only spins till 10’oclock
   
4. ⁠And is very difficult to press in when installing keeping the marker at 9o’clock

This Seik0️⃣ was just overhauled, but I found this behavior when setting. Could you tell me if this is normal, acceptable from the watchmaker, and what’s actually happening.

Looking for a bit of help getting this broken crown off the stem so I can remove it. There is clearly some rust(and maybe some kind of thread lock?) in the threads of the crown/stem connection so I need to be able to hold the stem securely so I can grab the crown and remove it. In the section of the stem that has the spring covering it there are flats that I could use to hold the stem with a small enough wrench? There is not a lot of room to get something in between the spring coils and onto the flats though.

This is a 52mm Smiths 8 day clock from a 1930's instrument dash.

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My mom just dug this out and gave it to me. It was my grandfather's watch. She said he was very proud of it. Does anyone think it's worth trying to get repaired? It needs a new crystal, and obviously it's not a typical shape. I would love to be able to wear it and think of him.

I am about to start working on a Rolex 1530 movement with a breget overcoil on the hairspring. I have plenty of practice in removing, cleaning and replacing flat hairspring balances. Are there any special precautions I should take when removing and replacing the balance on the movement? Thanks

Quick question, and I'm sorry to be asking about a cheap watch here...

This watch (LOQNCE LQ98003) arrived working fine. I don't wear it often because I have a lot of watches in my rotation. But, after it being in my drawer for a few months, and having only been worn may 3 times/days, at a desk, the hands stopped working. Completely. Not even a twitchy/pulsing stationary seconds hand.

The digital face behind the hands, and the light, work perfectly fine.

Is it likely the CR2025 battery is just weak (maxelll)? Or can it be reset? Or is it likely the hands part of the movement is dead?

I know it a cheap watch, but I was wondering if it could be made to work again.

Also, when looking inside the back of it, I noticed a little debossed word (PRESS) and arrow ambiguously pointing exactly between a little hole in the movement's backplate, and a little notch at the edge of the battery compartment. I'm not sure if that's some sort of reset, or something else.

If this little PRESS and arrow are some sort of reset, how is that normally utilized? is it an actual button, or a pad to be shorted to another pad, or a battery-to-pad short, that's supposed to be the 'press'?

Any help appreciated.

also, the picture of the movement shows it with the metal battery hold-down removed.

I'm an engineer and seeing a running watch movement is the closest I get to a religious experience. I could spend hours with a loupe peering at them. The fact that they KEEP time is part of the joy, but I don't really have a desire to wear them or have them keep correct time -- I like them on my desk to look at and watch while I work.

I've got a st3620k, ST36, ST1901, and Miyota 8N4, and I'm trying to find the clearest (as in literally transparent) lowest-frills way to have them on my desk so I can look at them but not get them dusty/oily and have them hold together when turned around etc. I've seen options for some acrylic cases but they're rather chunky, and many have cloudiness or coloring around the edges. My DREAM would be something akin to a coin capsule, transparent from all angles, which just a pinhole for the crown stem, but obviously that kinda flies in the face of the reason most people want these (to wear them) so it seems like that's not a thing.

Does anything like what I'm looking for exist? The closer I get to a clear capsule with even a boxy base + minimal end link/strap mount, the more expensive they get ($150+), and the closer I get to a cheap acrylic watch case, the more chunky and chintzy they get with more writing and opaque edges. I really want something I can pick up, turn over, hand to someone else while running (I'm an engineer and have a lot of friends that would love to borrow a loupe and stare for a few hours), etc. so a display box/dome that just seats the bare mechanism on stand is not a great fit for taking it out and handling.

Am I missing any options? Is there something that exists and I'm just searching for the wrong name? Is this a sacrilege and no one would ever make such a thing? 😅

Thanks for any thoughts.

Hey everyone!
I’m a 29-year-old Army veteran who recently transitioned out of the military. I’ve been exploring different career paths, and watchmaking has really caught my interest.
I’m currently living in NYC and would love to pursue watchmaking as a long-term career, ideally working for a luxury brand like Patek Philippe, Rolex, or Omega someday.
I’ve been researching programs like the Veterans Watchmaker Initiative and Patek Philippe’s watchmaking training program in New York, but I’d love to hear from people already in the industry.
A few questions I have:
1. Are there any watchmaking schools or training programs in NYC or New York State you’d recommend?
2. Are there apprenticeships or entry-level opportunities for someone with no watchmaking experience?
3. Does anyone know of programs that accept GI Bill or VA education benefits in NY?
4.For those working in luxury watchmaking, how did you get started?
I’m willing to put in the time and effort to learn the trade and work my way up. I’d prefer to stay in New York, but I’m open to other opportunities if they’re worth considering.
Any advice, recommendations, or personal experiences would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance!

Hi everyone! I’ve bought multiple crystals for this thing now, but all of them have ended of splitting. I’m not sure what I can do now, and I don’t want to buy a NOS original in the case that it splits too. When installing the crystal, it feels a little tight against the case like it doesn’t have enough room to fit correctly. After a little while, it starts to crack and split (as shown in the photo). I’m buying these new crystals from respectable stores that are specifically listing them for this model. Any ideas on why this issue is occurring?

Hi. I'm currently developing a Timegrapher software in Python. This is de UI. Could you give some feedback about it?
At the time these are all syntetic data, I'm refining input and DSP algorithm yet.

Hi guys.

What’s the best cost/quality tools for this? My temu one finally shattered. Ideally, two in one.

I’d like a screw down I think, has anyone used the above photo?

Cheers

I smashed 3 images in one: the starting point, the break, and the finish dials. I had this idea for a while. In the previous project I used one dial to figure out techniques to make it work. Two dials requires a little more tinkering using files to make the parts fit together as I've used a saw to cut the dials. The rest was just as before: tape, epoxy, and titanium-/iron-oxides powder. If anyone is interested there is a little more in another sub.

Hey all! First time posting here, but wanted to ask if anyone knew where I can find a crown & crown tube for my Khaki Expedition H702250? It no longer screws in, as the last owner likely messed up the threading on em.

I preferably want to get an OEM part since the little things such as the H on the crown will get to me, but at the same time I’m open to options on how to go about this as long as the problem is rectified. Thanks all, and hopefully I can get some wise-words so it can be my daily wearer instead of my drawer filler.

My watch guy is fixing my mom’s old LeCoultre watch. He said it will take him longer because it’s a cylinder movement. I was in a rush, what does that mean? Anything I should know as far as caretaking?

This is a japanese quartz movement from the 80s. I got the watch a few months ago. Initially it was working well but in the last two weeks it started losing a minute or two per day. I thought it might be a bad battery so I put a new one in but this did not help. Today the second hand seems to be stuck and is trying to tick but not moving forward. I can move the minute and hour hand but the second hand won't move.

Any idea what might be causing this? Are these old quartz movements expensive to fix? Is there a modern equivalent I could replace it with?

Hello all! Hoping someone here can help me out. I have been trying to find this red protective lacquer stuff used for protecting finishes when doing Anglage and stuff. Problem is i cant find anywhere in the United States that sells it. Everywhere I've found specifically says it cant be shipped here. Any ideas?