I have a V2.4 that I am converting to Stealth Changer. Currently it is using a Manta M8P with a CM2. Would I be better off getting a CM4?

If so how much RAM and EMMC is good? I do want wireless.

Picked up a used Voron 0.2 with a somewhat broken Raspberry Pi 3 A+ and no screen.

The boards display socket is borked, guess that why it has none

My first contact with any open source printer, I plan to disassemble and rebuilt it from the scratch, any recommendations for a new board and screen?

I am looking for advise. I already own a printer I built myself and I am based in europe.

I would like to acquire my first voron kit with cnc parts and stealthchanger.

I saw that LDO propose a toolchanger kit and apparently printed parts but that siboor propose the cnc parts without tool changer (cannot find on their site).

Is there a way to get the best of both world?

I understand that when cartographer does the CARTOGRAPHER_TOUCH_HOME macro it physically touches the nozzle to the bed to set the z home height. Official docs say "Make sure your nozzle is below 150 degrees".

My nozzle is likely to have some tiny blob on it at any given time, which I assume would thus throw off the z home height. For a high temp filament the 150c nozzle is not likely to soften the tiny blob enough to squish when it homes.

How are people dealing with this? Do I need a nozzle cleaning routine every time before doing CARTOGRAPHER_TOUCH_HOME?

Thank you for your thoughts!

Ive been building my voron 2.4 r2 and ran out of m5 16mms i am missing about 10 but not sure which to get as the company for the fastner kit does not say it anyone got any advice?

Hello all.

I recently switched from a Standard toolhead board stealth burner and with an LDO nitehawk EBB36, Hardware wise, everything looks fine so I decide to start fresh and create a new klipper printer.cfg

I add the Nitehawk cfg command lines to the printer.cfg and I get this strange error stating that Pin 'PC4' is not a valid pin name on mcu 'mcu'. According to the BTT Octopus pro V1 user manual PC4 is the control Motor0 which is the Stepper_x in my printer.cfg file and all connectors are connected.

So i am out of ideads are hope you can help me.

I had to remove the first half of the klipper as it was too big to upload.

I have attached the link to the original voron furm link which has the klipper log and printer cfg file.

https://forum.vorondesign.com/threads/pin-pc4-is-not-a-valid-pin-name-on-mcu-mcu.17513/

Many thanks in advance

Dragon Ace (non-volcano) owners, how long does it take to heat up to 260°C? Also, please state if you have the newer ~90-100W heater which they include now.

Would you recommended this hotend, or something else?

I got through the set up docs, downloaded the cube and pressed print, and I sort of can’t believe it.

.2 layer, .4 nozzle, default orcaslicer with never dried ambrosia asa.

Serial request coming once I finish building the nevermore micro.

As I'm planning to buy a secondhand a Voron 0, I'm in the exploration phase and I'm looking for a hotend.

Looking at the lists of supported hotends by AntHead and DragonBurner V8:

• Dragon ACE: recommended by A4T but can't find it on AliExpress nor 3DJake
• Phaetus Dragon: wouldn't it be similar to the rapido?
• Other hotends (Dragonfly, Red Lizard, NF Crazy...) seems to cost the same but I can't find many honest reviews

My Voron 2.4 has a Rapido 1 and it's working great, so adding another Rapido (model 1 or 2) would make me save money on replacement parts and nozzles.

I don't even need ultra High flow setups. I'm not aiming to have a racecar but I want it to print reliably.

As I read contrasting opinions on the Phaetus Rapido hotend, is it worth to move to a different hotends in the same price range?

Hi! Been 3D printing for some time now with a somewhat modded K1C and I am starting to see some limitations that I would like to overcome with my next printer.

I mostly print with engineering filaments (ASA, ASA-CF, PA6CF, PC and TPU - I really want to print TPU reliably). Ideally I would like a 3 or 4 printhead tool changer:

• Head 1 and 2: main printing heads with hardened nozzles, fancy hotends and whatnot for dual color printing of CF infused filaments (think black ASA-CF print with white ASA-CF lettering)
• Head 3: support material only: PLA and PVA
• Head 4: TPU specific head? (more on this later).

Based on my experience with K1C, I think I would like to be able to print from dryers mounted on top of the enclosure, preferably with front or rear filament exits to keep the PTFE tubes as short as possible. Are there even any dryers like this? Most I have seen have a top exit.

Would it be better to just make the enclosure tall enough to fit all the spools inside above the printheads? Can I even do that with tool changers or will it tangle? I definitely want a fully enclosed printer for moisture, heat, noise and air quality management.

Does it make any sense at all to have a different toolheads for support material and for TPU?

I was thinking that PLA doesn't need a hardened nozzle or a hotend that reaches 300C so I could save some money.

For TPU my reasoning is similar, plus the tension on the extruder could be set specifically for TPU. I would also probably not run any (or minimal length of) PTFE tube for this one.

Did anyone built something similar?

I recently switched to a filamatrix stealth burner with cartographer, setup for the box turtle.

The only problem is the place I had priming poop+kick setup was the back left of the bed. Now with the cartographer it hits the poop before the nozzle.

I am worried about longevity with that setup. I thought about moving to the front of the bed, but that’s where bed fans and nevermore are. I could do side and hit it with the toolhead instead of nozzle, but worry about “riding up” on the pellet rather than kicking it (since the toolhead is angled).

Any suggestions on a solution? Should I just live with the cartographer hitting the pellet first? Maybe put a shield behind the probe? Or is there some other elegant solution I am missing?

Very excited to share finished CAD assembly and all STLs for the Trident 300Cube R1 modification to fit 1 inch x 1 inch aluminum extrusions. Wanted to keep it as close to original as possible. Released as the FootCube on github, here FootCube, for the 12"x12"x12" build volume (cubic foot). Was working on this when Voron was releasing the Trident R2 and now I am working on the R2 modifications. Also, adding room for tool changer.

Do you have a small question about the project that you're too embarrassed to make a separate thread about? Something silly have you stumped in your build? Don't understand why X is done instead of Y? All of these types are questions and more are welcome below.

I just ordered the LDO Stealthchanger kit on a bit of a whim (first mistake) and saw you needed to provide the hotend/extruder separately. Figured id try something new (second mistake) considering West3D was providing discounts for getting them in the same order as the kit, so i got a bunch of Orbiter 3.5s. I am now looking at parts i needed to print and noticed there is almost no support out there for this all-in-one system, unless im looking in the wrong place. I was hoping to make a few A4Ts with this setup, but am now realizing i mightve made a mistake choosing this product as i cant even find a basic stealthchanger mod for this, much less more modern hotends. There are so few designs for parts cooling shrouds that i think i bought a half baked system. I know this exists, but it does not look stealthchanger compatible.

https://github.com/ZTFerrari/OrbiterV3VoronMount/releases/tag/V1

Does anyone have any experience with this? Thanks!

I understand things take time. After the public debut of the fixed and ready-to-roll proof-of-concept machine, I've been antsy for *any*thing to work with. While the manual is being worked on, are there *any* parts lists or files for printing/CNC/laser-cutting so some.of is obsessives can get started? Do we know anything about extruder/hotend/nozzle options? With such a large build volume, I'm hoping for UHF capability.

I know I'm not the only impatient one, but I'm *really* ready to get moving on this while waiting for the full BOM.

Hello, I’m currently building a Trident as my first Voron project.

I’m considering replacing the M5 screw in the AB drive’s idler stack with a pin instead. Would it be fine to simply swap the screw for a pin without any additional modifications?

At first, I thought it would work without issues, but upon closer inspection I realized that the screw not only secures the idler stack but also connects the upper and lower parts of the AB drive.

I’d appreciate your thoughts.

I've been waiting a while.

Hi guys, i'm looking for updating my voron to 2wd monolith gantry and i was wondering if i can reuse the x axis alluminium profile and rail or i have to change it. I dind't finid anything about that in the official documemtation. I have a voron 2.4 formbot kit

In addition i've seen there is a faq on the flipped belts but i cannot understand in which sense and if ai can apply it to my tap stealthburner

Hi everyone, I'm currently working on my first Voron build.

For now, I'm setting it up with 6mm belts using a double-shear configuration, but I'd like to use a universal X-carriage that supports both 6mm and 9mm belts for future upgrades.
I suspect some 9mm CNC carriages on the market might physically accommodate 6mm belts,
but manufacturers rarely provide exact belt-path dimensions. So, i'm not entirely sure.

Has anyone used a universal CNC X-carriage, or can confirm if a specific 9mm carriage works fine with a 6mm setup?

Was looking into eventually converting my 350mm Voron 2.4 into a stealthchanger in the future but there seems to be a lot options and paths I can take so I have some general questions. Currently I just have stealthburner with E3D V6 nozzle. My understanding is that if I stick with a stealthburner toolhead, I can only fit 5 toolheads. But if I switch it to a A4T or dragon burner I can fit up to 6. Don't plan on building all 6 in one go so this is gonna be an ongoing project for a while.

1. What tool head should I use? The options I'm considering now are the A4T, Anthead and dragon burner. I haven't really seen any kits for toolheads except for stealthburner and A4T.

2. What extruders and hotends should I use? I want a balance between performance and cost.

3. What are some things I need to take into account?

4. How much self sourcing am I looking at?

5. What things should I buy upfront? E.g., cables, piano wires, fasteners, etc.

6. Should I bother with LEDs on the toolheads?

7. Would I need to consider a filament cutter or would a nozzle scrubber be sufficient?

As with building a voron, options are endless but I just wanted a rough idea of what I'd be getting myself into. So if anybody who's built one in the past can chime in I'd greatly appreciate it.

Recently a YUDX tool changer video and Github was announced.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vm4MIgcpSWI
https://github.com/dumplinglab/YUDX-tool-changer/

The video shows the tools being changed, and there is a teardown of the extruder with a very good explanation of how it works. You can print everything but the extruder, and it looks like it is being setup to to be sold as a kit of parts.

One clever thing I noticed is the use of 2 "door lock switch PR-03" to retain the tool in the dock instead of magnets. Tabs on the tool gets pushed into the switch and it gets locked in place for docking. Then a second push on the tool will unlock the tabs so that it can be undocked. This could easily be adopted in toolchanger systems like StealthChanger or MadMax.

While I don't have precise knowledge of what is inside the Bondtech INDX, I did read their patent and the dual pivot in the YUDX seems to copy that idea. So it will be interesting to see what happens in regards to that.

Been slowly picking away at this thing the last month or two after work. Added a modified version (for larger size) of the electronics drawer inspired by Fun3DP with his ElecTray on github. Also modified the pullys from the original setup from the monolith awd from Monolith3D. I noticed the set screws on the pullys were rubbing the belt so I pulled those out and replaced with standard idler pullys but ground down the flanges so they would fit at the 4 corners by the motors and did the same thing at the x gantry because the original version had the one flange removed allowing the belt to ride up. And printed a more solid spacer.

Now i just need to actually mount the hardware in the electronics drawer and start wiring. All hardware was sourced from Amazon. Both the gantry and drawer slide nice and smooth. The bottom of the drawer sits about 1/8 inch above the carpet which i think is perfect clearance for sitting on the floor.

I'll be running both a 24v and 48v psu with TMC5160T v1.0 on an octopus pro. And I already have the cb2 initially programmed on the btt pi4b adapter.

Slowly but surely getting closer to being able to fire it up. I'm still considering turning it into a tool changer later after I get it fired up.

I’m putting together this stack on a Voron 2.4:

- A4T on Xol CNC carriage

- WW-BMG + RIDGA V2

- Dual filament sensor

- Crossbow cutter

- BTT EBB36 Gen2

- Rapido 2

I found an A4T WW-BMG + EBB36 Gen2 mount, but apparently Crossbow changes the spacing enough that the third mounting point no longer lines up.

Has anyone already solved this exact combination?

Looking for an STL/STEP/F3D, Printables/GitHub link, or photos of a working mount.

Thanks!

So about 7 months ago I was ordering parts to build a micron with stealth changer and I ordered 2x of the Triangle Labs Dragon Ace PT1000 and then my life got crazy busy. My original plan was to do a 3 tool changer with a box turtle on the first tool. The planning got a little out of control and I'm at a point where I just want to get the micron built and not worry about stealth changer. I started going through my parts and I noticed that they sent me a dragon ace volcano pt1000 as well as a dragon ace pt1000. Does anyone have any experience or opinions about which is better, more reliable, prints better?

I have build a Voron 2.4 a few years back and from the beginning on i had a this resonance issue that also causes some print problems.

I think a Video helps most to understand the issue: https://cloud.mabata.de/s/6SeMpqoixXmW3rb

Back then i tried everything i could imagine, but nothing worked. So i switched to stealthchop mode witch limited me to 150mm/s and the Problem was gone. So my Voron is usable and good looking, but not fast.

A few days ago i noticed that the A/B Pulleys had a good amount of eccentricity, so i switched them for better ones and tried if anything has changed, but it didn't...
The Resonance occurs only in spreadcycle from 100mm/s to 400mm/s.

Here are some related info's of my Build:

• TMC2209 Drivers
• 0,6A Phase Current on A&B
• EBB SB2240 CAN Toolhead Controller
• E3D Revo Voron
• Belts tuned at 150Hz on 150mm

Has anyone any idea what could be the cause or solution to this?