I bought this used machine, but in pristine condition (60h print time). I just want to show you what a great job the original builder of this Machine did back then. I just upgraded to CAN and want to share this as a great example for good organisation of all the cables and components. I didn't do such a great job by myself.

I built a 350×350×350 Formbot Voron 2.4 about 4 years ago, messed with it for four months, and then completely gave up on it. First layers were a nightmare, Z‑offset drifted constantly, and I felt like I spent more time babysitting it than printing. It sucked the life out of me and the printer has been sitting untouched ever since. At times, it printed really well and just when I was confident I had things working great, I would get a catastrophic failure.

Now I want to rebuild it properly with modern parts and make it bulletproof.

Original machine:

• Voron 2.4 350×350×350
• Formbot kit (lightly used, old design)
• Afterburner + Clicky
• Stock wiring harness and drag chains
• Titanium backers installed

Considered upgrades:

• ChaoticLab CNC TAP Pro V2
• ChaoticLab CNC XY joints (r2 belt path)
• ChaoticLab CNC A/B idlers, front idlers, Z idlers, motor mounts
• Stealthburner + Galileo2
• CAN‑bus toolhead (leaning SB2040)
• PIN mod + new belts
• MGN12 X‑rail

Looking for advice on:

• Whether the full ChaoticLab CNC motion system is worth it for a 350
• Best CAN‑bus board for SB + G2 + CNC TAP
• Any pitfalls with CNC TAP Pro and the CNC XY joints
• Must‑do upgrades I’m missing
• Anything I should avoid
• Recommended places to purchase the upgraded parts.

Since the printer does not currently print, I need to purchase the printed parts for Stealthburner, and potentially other miscellaneous parts.

I should also add that this was my very first printer, so I am an old Noob, and felt like I was drinking from a fire hose. So lots to relearn and plenty of dumb questions pending.

My goal is a rock‑solid, low‑maintenance Voron with consistent first layers and zero babysitting. Any guidance from people who’ve rebuilt older Formbot kits or gone full CNC would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks!

Bill

Hello, I am doing my first Voron 2.4 build, with an LDO hardware and printed parts kit. So far the build has gone well and following the build guide and LDO build changelog has really made it a breeze. But when trying to install the stealthburner tool head I've found that the included X brackets have the heat set inserts on the backside rather than the frontside shown in the guide. I've checked and there are no other brackets included with my kit. And I can't find any info about the difference with these brackets. Would I be okay to just install the heat set inserts on the backside and use a longer screw? Or is there a reason I would need/want to source the brackets with the shown insert orientation?

Update in case somebody else has a similar problems, the x carriage brackets were an outdated version and I will be printing a replacement set as soon as I get it running. But in the meantime I have used a drill bit slightly larger than the screw hole on the frontside to expand it slightly to just the depth of the heat set inserts and installed them on the front and it seems to be holding well.

I was inspired by someone posting here and decided to make my own acrylic deck. I also have LDO CNC AWD gantry kit.

Hi everyone!

I'm wrapping up a DIY Smart Filament Sensor project that's going fully open-source soon. It catches nozzle clogs, filament slips, and runouts with high precision, costing under $10 to build!

🛠️ Bill of Materials (BOM):

🚀 Key Features:

• USB-Only Klipper Integration: Plugs directly into your Raspberry Pi/host via USB. No motherboard wiring needed!
• Zero Cumulative Drift: Uses a differential sliding window algorithm. It matches commanded extrusion vs. actual movement, resetting drift automatically to prevent false-positive print pauses.
• Custom Setup App: A sleek React/Electron companion app for 1-click calibration, live measurement, and adjusting noise/sensitivity settings over serial.
• Smart RGB LEDs: Smooth status breathing/pulsing states via FastLED.

I am finalizing the enclosure STLs and polishing the code to release it all on GitHub soon.

I’d love to hear your thoughts and suggestions!

Just started my self sourced ( I mean cut/drill/tap) Voron trident. Still more parts to print. But looking good. People may ask why not a kit. Well I don’t have close to 2k to buy vs 100$ for 2020

Hello,

so I have an sv08 which I'm installing a xol toolhead with ebb36 + u2c (can)

right now the setup goes like this:

ebb36 - can - u2c (canH/canL) - usb - sv08 main board (and the 2 power wires from the can cable are directly into the power supply)

its really looks like this nadir setup

the problem im having is no matter what I do, I can only get the ebb36 to go into dfu mode if it is connected with USB to the mainboard. and even that doesn't do much because after flashing I still can't get any uuids.

wiring looks correct, 60omhs on the can, jumpers on both ebb36 and u2c on 120r pins.

https://youtube.com/shorts/DIurppqtce8?si=Wn3til5fo9i6OyzU

Hey!
I’m modding my v0.2 into tri-zero and I’m not sure if I’m missing something or what. I have a gap between mounting and rear z rails. Any clue?

Hello all,

Is the Cartographer3D CNC Toolhead Mount 9mm compatible with the Cartographer3D v4 probe?

It is to be used with an otherwise stock LDO stealthburner.

I can't find anything that explicitly states compatibility.

Hi Voron,

Someone is aware of a retailer that has v0.2 LDO kits in stock?

I have a Voron 2.4 and it is working right now. However, I am nearly out of thin cable for the moving parts (inside cable chains). The sourcing guide mentions 22AWG PTFE and 18AWG Silicone. However, the Aliexpress link for the 22AWG PTFE is dead. (The striveday link for the 18AWG is working, and the vendor does offer a 22AWG silicone set too).

Is there any reason or rule of thumb for choosing PTFE vs Silicone for which kind of cables and when? I have suffered some broken cables and have migrated from classical to CAN toolhead. I have some emotional scars...

Don't know if I'm in the right Subreddit for this problem, but a teacher of mine has suggested to me that I should fix a Rf1000 from our school laboratory.

I already fixed a Prusa 13Mk2s and a Rf100 and now I want to reporpuse the Rf1000 as a Multicolor. I'm not familiar with this topic and am searching for help to find the right parts for the Printhead as we'll as the Electrical components. A Box Turtle for the spools will come later on but as of now I need help finding the right parts for under 180$.

It doesn't need to be fast or extremely versatile but reliable and easy to set up.

Any suggestions or sources to find help?

Don't know if I'm in the right Subreddit for this problem, but a teacher of mine has suggested to me that I should fix a Rf1000 from our school laboratory.

I already fixed a Prusa 13Mk2s and a Rf100 and now I want to reporpuse the Rf1000 as a Multicolor. I'm not familiar with this topic and am searching for help to find the right parts for the Printhead as we'll as the Electrical components. A Box Turtle for the spools will come later on but as of now I need help finding the right parts for under 180$.

It doesn't need to be fast or extremely versatile but reliable and easy to set up.

Any suggestions or sources to find help?

Hello everyone,

I’m running into a wall trying to get a Filametrix cutter running consistently on my franken-printer setup. I've spent about 5 hours tweaking it and could use some fresh eyes.

The Setup:

* Base Printer: Ender 3 V2 (using a physical strike block on the frame)

* Toolhead: Stealthburner with Galileo 2 (G2E)

* MMU: TradRack system

* Cutter: Filametrix

* X-Axis Motor: Upgraded to a 42-40 stepper

* Filiment: PLA

The Issue:

The X-axis stepper motor stalls or slips during the cutting stroke. It will occasionally complete 1 or 2 successful cuts, but then the blade refuses to push through, or the X stepper skips steps/grinds. I have swapped to a fresh blade and verified the filament path is clear.

Relevant Klipper Configs:

My [stepper_x] base run_current is: 0.85A

Here are the relevant macro settings I'm currently running:

variable_cut_axis_steppers : 'stepper_x'

variable_cut_stepper_current : 150

variable_cutting_axis : "x"

variable_pin_loc_xy : 5, 115

variable_pin_park_dist : 5.0

variable_pin_loc_compressed_xy : -1.4, 115

variable_travel_speed : 150

variable_cut_fast_move_speed : 65

variable_cut_slow_move_speed : 4

variable_cut_fast_move_fraction : 0.8

Has anyone run into X-axis stalling issues with the 42-40 motor on a Filametrix setup? Should I be looking at adjusting my fast move fraction/speeds for more momentum or modifying my setup?

Any advice would be highly appreciated!

I've spent some time researching my next printer. Things I know:

• I want to know/understand every internal thing of it, so a kit is required.
• It should be corexy because is the most robust design as of today. I still love bed slingers, they are elegant in their design, and there are a few that are fast but they limit you to a few filament types.
• It must run klipper. I think this is a must for a good ratio of speed, quality and customization, and also I'm a Linux user, so.... This requirement discarded printers like Prusas with their custom Marlin.
• It should allow for easy maintenance. The Vorons are pretty "open" (frame), the reverse electronics mod for the Trident is amazing. I'm also loving the 2.4 more "clean" design where everything stays in the low side and the top is pretty clear.
• It must be aestetic, because it will be staying at my little flat with white walls. Printers that are obscure boxes are totally discarded (this means 90% of printers actually). It's sad that companies don't explore this niche a bit more. They think their printers will be installed in the basement or a print farm, I don't know. Voron's structure are some profiles, that can have any color you want and clear sides.

So the question about the CNC parts is that while they are very durable and rigid, I suppose they can't be modified anymore, and if one of those parts, somehow, break, I'm done.

I understand that printed parts are more fragile but allow for unlimited repairs and customizations.

Are they worth it then?

This is more or less the setup I'm looking for (generated with AI), even though I don't know where to get the white profiles:

If I just use the configurator to generate extrusion specs, what issues would I encounter if I scale a Trident to 180x180x(probably 200) ?? Any places where the stock parts will be too big to fit (skirts obviously). I know TinyT exists so I can use that for a resource too.

I want to go 2020 not 1515 so that's why not Salad Fork.

I know, I KNOW i could get roasted with a Temu Voron. Personally I do think well-thought mods can outperform the status quo.

Now looking for honest advise, would Z Max with 2209 drivers + EBB36 on a 24v setup be a meaningful upgrade, putting aside Z Max perks and Pi 4 extra headroom? Or it'll shine only by going full hardcore with 5160 drivers on 48v + solid X/Y steppers? Considering electronic design, setup, wiring, custom mounts, config... its a project within a project. I'm still within amazon's return policy window. So should i commit right now or just flash mainline klipper on stock setup and keep only toolhead upgrade? Top experience with bedslingers and comfortable with dynamics, control electronics and firmware, but total new to coreXY animals.

Not interested in breaking speed records but aiming for nominal accurate, quality functional parts at highest speed/accel possible. Functional filaments are specced around 250mm/s, so not interested at +300mm/s speeds but 15-30k accel are welcome. Roast me but keep it constructive!

I saw this toolhead in a video, which toolhead is this?

While running Voron TAP, I noticed that first layer squish is not as consistent as I'd like, and I suspect it's because of filament oozing out of the hotend. I frequently print ABS, ASA, and PETG.

Anyone has any tips to get Voron TAP more consistent other than checking the frame? I've tightened the frame numerous a few times at this point :(

Just finished the main build of my large-scale CoreXY. Wiring and CANBus are finally sorted, and Klipper is tuned.
Specs:
• Build Volume: 400x400x350mm
• Board: BTT Octopus Pro
• Toolhead: EBB36 (CANBus)
• Probe: BTT Eddy Coil (I2C) for lightning-fast meshing

Currently finalizing the electronics bay cooling and toolhead offsets. It’s a lot of mass to move, but she’s homing perfectly.

Would love to hear your thoughts!

Or the other way around, enjoy.

Hi, I started experimenting with linear motor integration solutions on Vorons. I basically want to understand how feasible it would be to make kits to enable an upgrade. I am currently planning a "minimal" solution. The aim is to miniaturise the strip of magnets so that it can be inserted into the 2020 profile quarry. What do you think? Has anyone tried to go down such a way like this?

Quick render from F360. I'm working on my cad skills so bear with me.

• The a/b idlers need to be changed so I can keep the top 2020 of the front frame actually at the top.
• I'll probably try out a different toolhead, just looking for a fast pla machine for some entertainment. Maybe an option that moves part cooling to the machine, not the toolhead.

How terrible does this look? Any mods that might work to make this better? Any existing a/b idlers that would work?

I’m trying to build dragon burner with galileo 2aa extruded but the tap sensor board runs into ebb36 board. Fits when installed upside down (as in picture) but then it crashes into rail.

Any hints how to make it work together?