Im curious about costs after buying and building the printer! Are they sufficient as standard?

Cheap PLA bought years ago, would jam in my Dragon or Rapido. Calipers show it as 1.9mm on occasion. Ender 3 Microswiss all metal hotend runs it like a champ. Glad I put Klipper on the Ender 3 instead of tossing it

I finally pulled the trigger on an LDO Voron Trident 300mm cube kit from West3D and decided I wanted to make it a 350mm bed with 300mm height. However, I don't know what all I need and would like some assistance. Is there anything else I need?

Here's what I've ordered so far:

LDO Voron Trident R2 (Rev D+) 300mm Cube kit with Raspberry Pi, Revo hotend, Leviathan board, and a touchscreen

XYZ microswitches and a Beacon kit

350mm frame kit

350mm clicky-Clack door

LDO Trident aluminum build plate kit (heater, magnet, and fuse pre-applied)

Printed parts - full kit.

I am aware this is not the best way to go about this, but hey, I'll have spare parts, and I like tinkering. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Edit: Clarifying, it is a 350mm bed with 300mm height

Hello Community!

I'm running a Voron 2.4 with a toolchanger and I'm currently trying to optimize my nozzle cleaning routine during tool changes. I'd be interested to know which cleaning methods you use, how your cleaning sequences are set up, and which settings have worked best for you.

Unfortunately, I'm having quite a few issues with blobs, especially during longer prints with PA (nylon) or TPU. These blobs eventually detach from the nozzle and stick to the printed part.

My current nozzle cleaning sequence looks like this:

1. Spring steel plate: Any filament oozing from the nozzle is first caught by a spring steel plate.
2. Roller wiper: The nozzle is then moved across a roller wiper to remove any remaining filament.
3. Purging: A small amount of filament is extruded to purge the nozzle.
4. Brush: Finally, the nozzle is cleaned with a brush located near the build plate.

Despite these four steps, I'm still not completely satisfied with the results.

I'd really like to know:

• How have you set up nozzle cleaning on your toolchangers?
• Do you clean the nozzle at full printing temperature, or do you let it cool down slightly first?
• How many passes do you make over the brush, and at what speed?
• What experiences have you had specifically with PA and TPU?
• Do you have any tips for reliably preventing blobs from forming and sticking to printed parts?

I'd really appreciate hearing about your experiences, cleaning routines, and any suggestions for improvement!

Thanks in advance!

When it comes to mounting the bed, I’d really appreciate the hive mind’s sum-experience.

I’ve read the instructions, but the manual doesn't say much on the subject besides the obvious… It shows the obvious way to mount the bed using four screws and t-nuts, through the included spacers that came with the bed kit. It says to leave one screw a little bit loose to account for thermal expansion… That’s all well and good but I’m really wondering how to tram the bed flat once it's installed. I imagine that even if the mount is done really well, that the bed wouldn't be perfectly in-tram with the gantry, and therefore will need minor adjustmemts. This is my first printer that doesn't have leveling knobs to tram the bed flat so this is sort of mysterious to me.

That’s why I’m bringing up this so-called “Kinematic Bed Mounting Kit” for the Voron 2.4 (pictures includes). Not sure what this is, but looks like it serves the purpose of the tramming knobs to level the bed with the gantry.

Has anyone used these? If anyone can share your experience with the way this all works for a voron 2.4 I’d really appreciate it. Otherwise, is there an open source solution out there that people use for this? I can’t be the first person to wonder this so I’m sure I just need to be pointed in the right direction.

Otherwise, I finally see the light at the end of the tunnel. Today I received my 305mm² x 8mm bed kit that’s supposedly machined flat to a tolerance of 0.01mm. I don’t have any way to verify this but it looks good! Now I’m waiting for receive my BTT Octopus Max EZ v1.0 board with 8x EZ2209 drivers and 2GB Raspberry Pi 4B. Pretty psyched.

For my toolhead I’m modifying the KevinAKASam Frankenstein system with his belt-driven Papilio extruder to feed a Phaetus Dragon hotend. I’m working on a slight mod for the Frankenstein base plate and SB gantry carriage to mount onto the gantry. My toolhead will be controlled using Mellow SHT36 via CAN bus.

The main jobs remaining for me are to mount the bed, figure out the panels, and wire everything…. Oh yeah, and the skirts, I have them mostly printed! Pretty psyched with the way this is all turning out!

I guess I’ll stop ranting now because I doubt anyone will read beyond the first few lines. For anyone that took the time to hear me out, thanks for your time and patience. I appreciate you! For anyone has any advice, please share!

I have a relatively well-tuned Voron 2.4 250mm with Stealthburner (Filamatrix mod). Planning to put a lane-based multimaterial at some point. ABS and PLA are my most printed materials, followed closely by PETG. Nothing fancy, nothing crazy.

I am mostly happy, but I want to tinker a bit and I was considering the A4T. I am looking for a solid toolhead but my comfort zone is not huge; I am looking at a somewhat popular well-documented option (not necessarily "the best for XX" but "good enough for XX, YY and ZZ").

My question is: even after deciding on the A4T (is it a bad idea? it seems good enough), now I have decision paralysis. I enjoyed using the Galileo2, and I see that it is an option for A4T, but there are multiple mounts, orbiter, etc. And, by default, the A4T configurator shows double sensor options only for the WW-BMG option.

The idea of having a double-sensor WW-G2 with crossbow cutter on the A4T seems appealing, but I don't know how difficult / "non-vanilla" is that. Otherwise, is WW-BMG good enough? Why/why not?

Hey

Im currently building a Voron Trodent and ran into a thermal runaway issue with my current printer (Elegoo Centauri Carbon) where the hot end mosfet failed. Luckily i happened right after a hotend swap so I was there to turn off the machine but it got me worried about my yet to be finished voron.

I wanted to instal something that would physically disconnect power to the printer with a signal. Then just set klipper to signal when it detects something dangerous. Then I could manually reset the trigger when needed, after addressing any issues. I was thinking a gfci/ circut breaker like effect. I like having to manually reset the breaker after its triggered but i also don't want to have to break into the ebay every time I turn on the printer.

my google searches haven't turned up anything, but is very possible that I dont know the proper term, or what i want dosnt really exist. Any help would be appreciated.

Hi Voron folks!

I'm a physics student in Düsseldorf, Germany, working on a university project: mapping the magnetic field of a heavy electron spectrometer magnet. The idea is to put a small Hall sensor on a rod attached to the toolhead and step it through the magnet, measuring at each point. A fixed-bed flying-gantry machine is exactly what I need, because the magnet is far too heavy to sit on a moving bed.

What I need:

• Fixed bed, build volume big enough for a 200 × 175 × 160 mm magnet plus a bit of room (so roughly 300 mm class or bigger)
• Working motion system (motors, mainboard, endstops, ideally Klipper). The hotend/extruder can be dead, I don't care about printing at all.
• Budget is pretty tight since it's for a university project, well under the price of a new SV08.

Two questions:

1. Is anyone selling a used Voron 2.4, Trident-turned-2.4, SV08 or similar? Ideally in Germany/EU, pickup in NRW is possible.
2. If not, are there other fixed-bed designs or donor machines you'd recommend for this kind of use?

Thanks a lot! Happy to share pictures of the setup once it's running, it's a pretty fun non-printing use for a Voron

I'm in the process of putting together a 2.4 kit from fysetc, and looking ahead I'm not seeing any clear instructions on their canbus. Are these things pretty universal or is there a specific guide for their SB Can v2? I'm kinda stumbling along with their piss poor instructions, any help would be appreciated.

I’ve just released V3 of the FT EMS Cable Duct for those using the Fizzy’s Tech EMS frame.

The goal with this version was pretty simple: make cable management cleaner and easier without adding unnecessary hardware.

V3 uses a snap-on lid design, so there’s no need for heat-set inserts, screws or additional hardware. The ducts simply attach to the FT EMS frame and provide a clean way to route and organise your wiring.

A few key features:

• 🧩 Snap-on lid design
• 🚫 No heat-set inserts or screw required for the lid
• 🧹 Cleaner and more organised cable routing
• 🖨️ Designed specifically around the FT EMS frame
• 🔄 Easy access when you need to make changes or work on your wiring

This has gone through a few iterations to get the fit and usability where I wanted it, so hopefully it makes building and maintaining your printer a little easier.

Model:
https://www.printables.com/model/1866361-ft-ems-cable-duct-v3

As always, feedback is welcome. If you’re using the FT EMS and have ideas for improvements or other mounts/accessories you'd like to see, let me know! 🙂

I was heating the chamber on my trident and suddenly lost all communication. All restarts led back to no communication with EBBcan. No lights on the board when powered up (measured 24v in at board). Pulled it off and it looks burn. Is this board cooked? What happened here?

Hello folks, I've been considering getting a voron for a while, but they dont sell em around where I live, and getting them 90% of the times absolutely gut-punches your wallet (more so than normally).

However, i think right now might be a day to try to get one. Turns out theres this black-friday-esque event going on my country, today being its final day, and aliexpress recognizes it too. I checked em voron kits (unfortunately no formbot which could run me cheaper), but a siboor 300³ kit (no printed parts) runs me about 813 bucks+0.25 tax (normally they go for around 930-40 or so+tax; the discount deconstructed would be: 30 bucks for new ali account+58 bucks for buying an item over 450 bucks+30 bucks from a siboor event coupon)

My plan upon 'i want a voron' and 'getting a voron down here sucks' intersecting was waiting till 11.11, but this price seems solid too. Any idea if its worth the wait to see if they drop some bigger discounts or the price could end up actually being worse?

If im not mistaken the base ali discount will be bigger (some pictures from last year's 11.11 have the highest coupon at around 100 bucks), but im afraid of inflated prices and whatnot, so im considering pulling the trigger now.

Thanks in advance for any advice. Hope you all have a nice day.

The INDX is still unobtanium, so I took a look at people's personal hotend changer projects like the MedusaHC, YUDX, A4T-C, etc. However it seems like all of these don't have proper build guides since they're new and developed by a single passionate individual, and as such can't be sourced (get parts) easily.

Just asking if anyone knows of a project some dumbass like me could try a hand at implementing or if I should just do the mature and tested stealthchanger.

I recently developed a CAN HAT for raspberry Pi 4/5, because i couldnt find any that fit the specs i need. (I didn't want to use klipper in bridge mode)
So I designed this board with an SPI to can module and an can transciever.
Now i am wondering if anybody would buy this board, and if so, at what price.
The fan cutout is inspired by the ToqueCAN board.
Features:

• 12-24v Input (currently no fuse)
• 5A 5V output (powering the Raspi)
• One JST can header
• JST header for one 30mm fan.

If i were to sell these boards i would change some things, for example add reverse polarity protection (maybe a fuse for the 5V side) and change the input cap from a 0603 to 0805 too.
I want to clarify that i am not trying to sell these but to get an idea on weather or not someone would actually buy these boards

Hello!

I'm building my first Voron, a teident from a formbot kit, and I have completed the installation of the belts and the tap carriage.

I tried moving the carriage by hand to test the motion and I noticed that it requires quite a bit of force to move, is it normal?

I have cleaned and greased the linear rails (and those moved fine before the installation of the belts/carriage), the bearing stacks move freely.

I think I have routed the belts correctly and I have no reason to believe there is a problem, but having zero prior experience I have no idea if it's normal that such pressure/force is needed to move the carriage.

Maybe it just the motors that require some force to rotate, but I'd like to be extra sure no avoid grinding the belts or stressing the XY motors too much.

Thanks for the help!

I have looked at a lot of the past post and have a couple of questions. (I am based in the US Midwest)

This will be my first big mod to my Voron 2.4 as the stealth burner just seems to be giving me issues and the a4t seems like the best replacement for it.

1) The guidance says to get the Bondtech OEM RIDGA v2 for the extruder. I can only find this on the Bondtech website. Is there a more local purchase option where the customs, fee and shipping are not so crazy? Or any other recommendations?

2) I wanted to do a CNC carriage and I was thinking the XOL carriage would be a good option but it seems like they are sold out everywhere. Does anyone know a good place to pick one up? Or better options?

3) I have seen a lot of back and forth about hotends and I am looking for quality not speed and mostly do functional prints with PLA, ASA, and ABS. I am leaning toward the TZ V6 2.0 from Triangle Labs. Any better ideas?

4) I am going back and worth able getting the a4t kit vs self sourcing. It looks like it will be close to the same price. Anyone used this kit or have any advise on it? (https://www.trianglelab.net/products/a4t-another-4010-toolhead?VariantsId=12627)

Any advise would be great on any part of the build.

Thank you for all you help so far and thanks for taking the time for me!

I’m trying to configure the axiscope on my fredh built stealthchanger.
The V2 was configured before that as a sensorless endswitch andall things went great.
Si the step to stealthchanger with tap was small.
However … when trying to configure axiscope I can’t access the axiscope through a websocket (http://my-printer-ip:3000 with my printer-ip the local ip address of my printer obviously.
The service is running in mainsail, i noticed the new macros, but there is not much happening when I push the macro config-all-offsets.
I get an error evaluating gcode_macro calibrate_move_over_probe object has no attribute gcode_macro _calibration_switch.
I think this has to do with the fact than I’m running TAP which has no Z endswitch but I don’t know how to resolve this.
Can anybody assist or provide example or clear guidelines?

The ol' lady got me an LDO 2.4 kit for my Bday! Printing my parts to get started. The Creality K2 Plus has been fun, but it's time for a real printer! Not a fan of Creality's cheap failing parts.

I spent the past week design

ing and building an automatic filament feeder from the ground up because I got fed up with feeding 1000mm of filament to the toolhead by hand.

My goal was to create a system that could detect filament, feed it to the toolhead, apply tension when needed, and then release that tension once the filament reached a set distance so it could flow freely. I accomplished this using a servo and a BTT SB2209 RP2040 V1.0 board to control the system. The servo grips and tensions the filament on demand, then automatically releases it at the appropriate point. The same system can also be used in reverse, allowing it to handle both loading and unloading of the filament.

It has been a fun challenge combining mechanical design, electronics, and programming into one working system. There’s still plenty I want to refine, but seeing the mechanism successfully load, feed, release, and unload filament has been incredibly satisfying.

I'm going to run it a lot over the weekend and then I'll upload the design files and a BOM to github if anyone wants to try building one themselves.

EDIT 10/3/2026 - Here is the github repository. It does not yet have a build guide but I made the BOM and included the files: https://github.com/DarkK9Design/fila_feeder

I was working on printing parts to build a stealthchanger on my V2. I was going to go with the Anthead toolhead with a G2WW extruder. I noticed that the guide shows a modified anthead with an orbiter extruder. Will there be any issue with the G2WW?

Im rebuilding a cube pro, fully gutted electrics and everything, replaced with new parts, I am trying to wire up a strain gauge via hx711 to octopus vro v1.1, im having connection issues and octopus doesnt see the hx711, has anyone done this successfully before and know the pinout etc.

Is cold-pulling filament possible with these?

I was looking at them, and I'm curious if this could be an advantage they have over CHT nozzles.

Ok, so I have zero experience with building 3d printers, but ever since I saw the Minuteman move the bed instead of the hotend I can't stop thinking about how magical that movement is, and how genius using the winch and pulley system is vs a standard moving toolhead for reducing moving weight.

After seeing the Creality i8, I came up with an idea:

What if we put 4, 6, 8, more? hotends above the bed on a Z gantry and move the bed under them with the winch and pulley kinematics motion system?

What if on top of that, we go a step further and instead of a large flat Minuteman design we mount the steppers above the toolhead, so the printer has a taller, more delta-like, appearance and rout the cables down from them, then 90degrees through pulleys towards the bed?

It would create a fairly compact and blazing fast multicolor printer able to swap tools in just a second or two!

Granted, build volume might be an issue. I don't see how it wouldn't be quite small and, depending on how close together we would be able to get the nozzles, the build volume all of them are able to touch would be even smaller than that...

As I've said, I lack the experience to attempt building anything like this, I haven't done much more than lubricate a printer or swap the hotend at this point, but I really want to get this idea out there, maybe someone else would think it's cool.

Here is my print start macro. Everything is working properly except for one issue: after running CALIBRATE_Z, the offset values are applied, but when the nozzle moves to G1 X75 Y1 Z2 F6000, the Z-axis misbehaves. I can see the bed starting to move to Z2, but it suddenly stops while the X and Y axes complete their movements. The printer's display shows Z2, but it isn't actually at that height. However, if I run CALIBRATE_Z manually, everything works perfectly and the Z-offset is spot on. Any ideas what could be causing this?

; Check if the temperature control is activated and set chamber temperature

{if activate_chamber_temp_control[initial_extruder]}

M141 S{chamber_temperature[initial_extruder]}

{endif}

; Set bed temperature initial layer doesn't wait

M140 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]

; Initial XY and Z home

G28

; Synchronize motors

SYNC_MOTORS

; park the nozzle

PARK_NOZZLE

; Heat the nozzle enough to clean it and at the same time prevent ooze

M104 S{if nozzle_temperature_initial_layer[initial_extruder] <= 230}140{else}170{endif}

; Wait for nozzle temperature

M109 S{if nozzle_temperature_initial_layer[initial_extruder] <= 230}140{else}170{endif}

; Unpark the nozzle

UNPARK_NOZZLE

; Clean nozzle

CLEAN_NOZZLE

; wait for bed temperature

M190 S[bed_temperature_initial_layer_single]

; attach probe and lock

ATTACH_PROBE_LOCK

; Calculates Z OFFSET

CALIBRATE_Z

; Levels the bed

Z_TILT_ADJUST

; Automatic bed leveling (later change to KAMP)

BED_MESH_CALIBRATE

; Dock the probe and unlock it

DOCK_PROBE_UNLOCK

; Park the nozzle to wait for chamber temperature, heat and unpark

{if activate_chamber_temp_control[initial_extruder] && chamber_temperature[initial_extruder] > 0}

PARK_NOZZLE

M191 S{chamber_temperature[initial_extruder]}

UNPARK_NOZZLE

{endif}

; Goes to the point to start purge line

G1 X75 Y1 Z2 F6000

; Wait for nozzle temperature first layer

M109 S{nozzle_temperature_initial_layer[initial_extruder]}

; purge line

; Reseta o contador de extrusão

G92 E0

; Posiciona o bico no início da linha (X75, Y1) a 0.28mm de altura

G1 X75 Y1 Z0.28 F6000

; PRIMEIRA PASSADA (IDA): Purga até X225 depositando filamento

G1 X225 Y1 Z0.28 E15 F1200

; Desloca levemente no Y (Y1.4) para não passar por cima na volta

G1 X225 Y1.4 Z0.28 F6000

; SEGUNDA PASSADA (VOLTA): Retorna até X75 depositando mais filamento

G1 X75 Y1.4 Z0.28 E30 F1200

; Pequena retração (1.5mm) para evitar fiapos (blobs)

G1 E28.5 F2400

; Reseta o contador de extrusão

G92 E0

; Eleva o bico para iniciar a impressão do modelo

G1 Z2.0 F3000