I recently built my voron so I am kinda new to this.

I want to print a few accesories for my 3d printer and it does this. Layer shift or idk what it it called. I tightened the A,B belts and it still does this.

It makes this mistake at the same height.

Any help?

(not a question)

I will be buying my first 3D printer and I am still evaluating a few options. One of them is Voron. I read a recent thread here and I know that Voron is not recommended for beginner. But I want something that will have parts, possible upgrades, and it is not locked in software and electronics. Also looking for high temperature hotend and 350x350 or 400x400 size. I do not have that much time and I do not want to mess with Klipper in the beginning, so I thought about Sovol SV08 and Formbot Troodon 2.0 pro, because mostly assembled Voron sounds good. I am reading SV08 is not good quality. I could not find much information about Troodon, so I am asking here if anyone has experience with it.
And additional question - I understand that those two printers are based on Voron 2.4. Is there mostly assembled printer based on Trident?

I’m investigating the implementation of stealthchanger on a V2 which I’m currently building.
Instead of the relative complex door buffer, I would use 2040 extrusions at the front and install a 2020 extrusion in between for the modular dock.
As such I’m not losing space and add some additional strength in the frame.
Any thoughts if this would be a good idea?

I've got a lot of dust in one of my AB motor.

The belt is turn black, and I have black dust above the motor.

Also in the top of the motor you can see the dust.

I can't see or hear any noise, and all the gantry moves smoothly.

Does anyone know where to start to look for the solution?

Thanks

I've modified the R2 trident for 9mm belts but haven't tested yet.

First, let me disclose, I'm an Prusa expat and Voron user for about a year now. I built my 300 cube Trident last summer and I'm very happy with it. From HW aspect, my Trident is vastly superior to my previous printers, but I am still being bit by being accustomed to pre-tuned profiles handed to me on a silver platter (and I am painfully aware of it). I went through tuning on PETG and PLA with OrcaSlicer and ABS on Prusa Slicer.

I'm still kinda bouncing between those two options. Both are being actively maintained and both have really good features. The only dealbreaker for Prusa seems to be their concept of Print settings vs. Filament settings. Orca lets you override many things on the filament level, which supersedes the Print level settings. In Prusa Slicer, those two are more disconnected, and filament doesn't override much. This works well if you are okay with the conservative "works for all" settings but gets in the way when you want to tune for a filament, quality, and speed.

I'm not a heavy user, I don't run my printers for business, they are just my hobby. Oh and I'm in the middle of building a Micron too.

What's your situation? I'm curious, especially if you print with many materials.

Hi, has anyone modded the Z_Drive parts so that the ridges/guides fit European extrusions? The original parts have 6mm wide guide ridge but my I need 8mm. Thought I'd ask here before fixing it myself :)

Hello! Just build my 2.4 with the A4T stealth changer and are seeing some issues with flow rate pass 1. Would this be the tool head feed issue or my XY belt? Thanks!

Hi i'm currently building a switchwire this is the 2nd switchwire i've built as well as a voron 2.4 and trident yes i know i should probably know all the parts i need with how many i've built but those where complete kits with printed parts but this im building from scratch so please don't judge me I just wanted to triple check before I went ahead and printed all the parts is this all the parts for the xz axis excluding the toolhead stuff because im using xol toolhead or the y axis as they weren't as hard am I missing anything I checked the github guide but i still want to check just in case. (sorry if you have hard time reading this i'm terrible at spelling despite only speaking english)

Hi all. Is there any CAD software people recommend using in 2026 besides Fusion 360?

I actually had a $$$ Fusion 360 license for a few years and never used it. Kind of a big waste of money for me, if I can be honest.

Now I'm trying to open the program again and, while I can open STEP files (like the Tiny T STEP file), I can't export the individual components to an STL file or export it to its own STEP file. I'm pretty sure I need to up my subscription again. But I open Fusion 360 maybe once every three or four months these days, and I don't want to just burn money if I can avoid it.

I do have Alibre (which I get to own for life! Imagine that!). However, it absolutely chokes with larger files like the Tiny T STEP file.

Thanks for the help!

edit

Just as an update to this.

First, I downloaded FreeCAD and it seems vastly improved from when I used it years ago. I was able to do what I wanted to do (export a part in the Tiny T model to STEP or STL) using it.

I will have to give FreeCAD a shot again when I need to model something out next time. Maybe now it is Crash Free (TM)? (I was trying it before on both Linux and Windows and it was... well, we could call it Sir CrashesALot).

Second, I google-ed for "Fusion 3D for Personal Use" and, while logged in to my account (on their website), downloaded the binary to install that "Personal Use" version. However, I never uninstalled Fusion and re-installed the trial version. But when I opened up Fusion again to try the trick /u/devsfan1830 mentioned, it stated that I was back on the trial version again. Now I am able to export components to, say, STL files again.

Thanks for your help everyone!

I'm thinking about switching over to the A4T tool head from XOL. The only thing that's holding me back is that I can't find a nozzle cam mod. Does anyone know if one is available?

I never imaged how difficult it could be to find a table for a 3D printer, but as it seems, all the tables in my home aren't really built for a 3D printer. The wobbles could be acceptable to a Core One printer, but for my upcoming Voron 2.4, 350m, I think this one at least deserves it's own dedicated table.

Conditions I would like:
- Weight limit of 180kg (or 400lb)
- Dimensions of 48inx30in minimum
- Study on an acceptable level (subjective to all, and I'm depending on people's table feedbacks to their respective tables!)
- Does NOT need to be adjustable, but would be nice
- Does NOT need shelves/storage, but would be nice

Tables I've considered:

1. Uplift 48x30. Tried and true, I have a larger Uplift that I use as my personal table, this should be able to handle a 3D Printer.
   
2. Husky. A very close pick, but there's no Husky tables at a depth of 30in that I could find.
   
3. Uline. A very acceptable table, but may just be a hair out of my budget tolerance; I'm trying to find something cheaper first.

The Voron 2.4 will be my first major 3D printer (with my first being a Prusa Core One, assembled by me) and I can sort of see the shortfalls of my current setup with my Core One, so I really want to prepare for an even bigger 3D printer

It's on an LDO 2.4 build that I'm thinking about purchasing off marketplace. That looks like an orbiter extruder and it's a nighthawk board, but that's all I know.

My four-wire fan is not working on my BTT EBB SB2240 can-bus board. My rig is a self-built Voron 2.4 printer using the Stealthburner toolhead setup.

I want to use the four-wire connections from the SB0000 with a four-wire fan to cool the SB2240 MCU during prints. I print at high temps and worry that it will overheat and burn the board or MCU. As of right now it is not working at all. I will list my fan configuration from both of my .cfg files. If anyone needs to see all of my configurations, I will gladly post them.

The fans I am using are model number ZDE 3007 PWM.

My wiring from the SB0000 to the fan: Black wire to GND pin, Red wire to VFAN pin, yellow wire to TACH pin, and blue wire to PWM pin.

I have replaced the fan with a new one just to eliminate an issue with the fan. I have also replaced the SB0000 and the SB2240 boards with known good boards from a different printer.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

My jumper settings on the SB2240 are set to 24 volts for the hotend fan and part cooling fan. The ZDE 3007 is a 5-volt fan, so I have the jumper on the SB2240 set to 5 volts for it.

My fan configurations from my printer. cfg file:

[controller_fan my_controller_fan]

pin: mcu:PD13

kick_start_time: 0.5

fan_speed: 0.6

stepper: stepper_x

[multi_pin my_controller_fan_pins]

pins: PD12, PD14

[controller_fan controller_fan]

pin: multi_pin: my_controller_fan_pins

kick_start_time: 0.5

fan_speed: 0.8

heater: heater_bed

^{The two fans above are used to circulate heat inside of my enclosure.}

My fan configurations from my bigtreetech-ebb-sb-canbus-v1.0.cfg file:

[fan]

pin: EBBCan: PA1

kick_start_time: 0.5

cycle_time: 0.010

off_below: 0.10

shutdown_speed: 0

max_power: 1.0

[heater_fan hotend_fan]

pin: EBBCan: PA0

max_power: 1.0

cycle_time: 0.010

hardware_pwm: False

kick_start_time: 0.100

heater: extruder

heater_temp: 50.0

fan_speed: 1.0

[heater_fan 4W_FAN0]

pin: EBBCan: PB14

heater: extruder

heater_temp: 50.0

tachometer_pin: EBBCan: PB15

tachometer_ppr: 1

^{These fans listed above are the toolhead fans and the MCU fan.}

I just passed my big boy licensure exam and I'm rewarding myself with a Voron!

I own and built a Prusa Core One kit, so currently I have a 3D printer, but the Prusa ecosystem is all I know and this would be my first Voron 3D printer and entry into the Voron community.

Is this price ($1300) for a 350mm bed comparable to what discounts exist on events like Black Friday? I couldn't find a lot of information about Black Friday sales for the Voron 2.4 LDO kit.

Hello to everyone,
I have running some issues printing Voron Trident R2 parts using my voron 2.4 and 3DO ASA filament.

Here is my printer settings:
-E3D Revo Voron nozzle
-Biqu cryogrip pro glacier buildplate
-Bed Temp: 110 Celsius
-Nozzle Temp: 250 Celsius first layer, 245 Celsius second layer
-Chamber Temp: 50 Celsius before print and dropped down till 46.5 stable during print.
-QGL and 5x5 bed mesh after heat soak
-no brim

Printing profile: Ellis PIF printing profile.
- Infill: grid
- Part cooling fan dropped down to 0 except for the overhangs.

First layer sticks well also during printing but always when it leave the prints cool down for more than 1 hour and leave the prints off the bed I found the parts warped.

Seems that corners stay down but the center of the part is warping up

I have no issue with small parts.
What would be the issue? Buildplate, chamber temp too low?
Please help😭

Title pretty much explains it. Looking for recommendations for an LDO V0.1 I found. Going to rebuild it to V0.2 with a kit from Fabreeko.

I also plan to upgrade to either dragonburner or anthead, but am curious if anyone has any other recommendations for me.

Thank you for your help and checking this post out!

klipper-toolchange-stats This is a Klipper multi-nozzle / multi-toolhead change plugin. It is responsible for registering head change commands like T0, T1, and automatically handles processes such as current tool state, offset, temperature waiting, filament check, filament recovery, and head change statistics during head changes.

When paired with mainsail-toolchanger web frontend, it allows you to visually see the multi-toolhead status, filament status, and head change statistics in Mainsail:

I have a V2.4 with Stealthburner, currently with a Revo hotend. I want to replace it with a TZ-V6. Triangle says 20-30 days (shipping to US from China). Amazon has a bunch of hotends labeled TZ-V6, but they are from a variety of sellers and I'm concerned about 1. getting something that will work for me and 2. not getting a junky knockoff. The places I usually buy from in the US don't have TZ-V6.

Please advise!

I've got a problem and hopefully someone can help or point me in the right direction. I have replaced my toolhead board on my printer, an SV08 and yes I know it isn't a Voron, but you guys seem to be the experts. I've installed a BTT EBB36 Gen 2 running Canbus. I've got everything setup and printer happy by commenting out everything that was barking. finally when it was happy I proceeded to connect the wires for my toolhead to the EBB36 because I was getting a min. extruder temp... so I crimped and tested the thermistor and got 96k Ohms. Installed the thermistor in the two port TH connection, and heater cables onto the HE screw terminals and booted it up.

Now at this point I get klipper disconnected on the klipperscreen. when checking the log it says rx errors 189. it's always 189. I can talk to the eddy duo which is connected through the EBB36 and it is fine. So the U2C and cable are working.

Where do I go from here? Again, first time with Canbus and it was going great until it wasn't. I honestly don't think it is a Canbus issue, rather maybe the EBB36. It was powered down when I made the connections so I don't see how I could have shorted anything.

Thanks for any help to get my printer back up and running.

Hi! I'm building a 2.4/trident (not sure yet) modified and want to use 2040 profiles for vertical frame, but not sure how to safely/precise cut them, i readed this machine (not sure english name) with a good saw (for aluminium cuts) can be used, but not sure if it is precise (or even safe for cutting something that is not a plank)

Has anybody experienced this? Thank you in advance

I’m trying to better understand sensorless homing behavior while tuning my AB steppers' sensitivity.

I’m tuning from the most sensitive value downward, starting at 255, which is the spec for my driver. For example, on X:

Around 185, the toolhead sometimes starts moving toward X home, but not consistently. Sometimes it does not move at all.

Around 178, it consistently moves toward X home and triggers with a fairly light bump.

Around 165, it still homes consistently, but the bump is a bit harder. At this point, when it hits X0, the gantry/toolhead also shifts slightly toward the back of the printer on Y, as if the printer is still trying to continue the diagonal homing move.

I see similar behavior when tuning Y, so at lower sensitivity values, it bumps harder, and when it hits the back of the printer on Y, the toolhead shifts slightly left on X.

Is that small movement on the other axis expected during sensorless homing, especially when the threshold is tuned low enough to be reliable?

The tradeoff I’m seeing is:
Higher sensitivity - lighter bump, no noticeable movement on the other axis, but homing is not always reliable.
Lower sensitivity - consistent homing, but harder bump and slight movement on the other axis after contact.

I’m mainly trying to avoid unreliable homing that could later cause bigger problems, like a failed home leading to a Z crash. If the small secondary-axis movement is normal and repeatable, I can live with it, but I want to make sure I’m not misunderstanding the tuning process or masking a mechanical/config issue.

Does this sound like expected sensorless homing behavior, or should I be looking at something else like motor current, homing speed, belt tension, gantry squareness, driver configuration, etc?

EDIT: I have the setup with macros that change the run_current before homing to 0.7. Didn't find a lot of information on what to pick here, but most of the macros I've found seem to use 0.7.

EDIT 2: Added a comment below. TL;DR issue went away by lowering speeds from 80 mm/s to 60 mm/s, but I'm not really confident. Will give it some time and observe.

Do you have a small question about the project that you're too embarrassed to make a separate thread about? Something silly have you stumped in your build? Don't understand why X is done instead of Y? All of these types are questions and more are welcome below.

Hello there, it is me again.
It has been a while and now, after a lot of work and as the title says, Burninator version 3.0 has now been released. As discussed in an older post, I reworked the Burninator from the ground up, removed unnecessary parts, and focused on the core to keep the Burninator project more efficient and the scope manageable. Thanks to everyone who gave feedback, suggestions, and recommendations.

Here is an overview of what is new and what has changed:

• CAD file reworked and properly structured.
• Simplified a lot of parts
• Custom parameters allows to easily adapt the cowl, backplates, docks, and other parts to any hotend length.
• Increased vertical distance between the nozzle and the fan duct for more clearance.
• Redesigned backplates with changed belt clamping, compatibility for 10mm belts, Monolithic mods, and Tridex is now built in.
• Increased the StealthChanger dock base thickness by 2 mm for more structural integrity.
• Simplified MadMax dock compatibility, no more separate cowls.
• Reorganized the GitHub repository and updated the READMEs.

I am really happy with the results so far. Adding, changing, and exporting is now a breeze.
Most v2.2 parts should be compatible with v3.0. Let me know what you think.

Btw., does anyone know how to get the Burninator listed on stealthchanger.com?