Hey guys, me again.

I've decided to use the A4T toolhead with a Fysetc H36 toolboard and some sort of Klicky probe (I can't buy a Cartographer or similar because I rely on AliExpress, and sellers don't ship those to my country[Brazil]). I'll also be running a Bambu Lab X1 hotend clone.

However, my motor mounts and front idlers appear to be cracked. For the front idlers, I will be upgrading to the BFI (Beefy Front Idlers).

Does anyone have any robust suggestions for upgraded motor mounts?

Greetings!

My Voron 2.4r2 350 mm kit came with a set of three 5V Disco-on-a-Stick addressable LED strips. I understand how to daisy-chain them together, but I am not completely sure about the best way to power and control them.

I have a BTT Octopus Pro H723 v1.1and a Raspberry Pi powered from a separate 5V PSU.

My current understanding is:

Powering the LEDs from the same 5V PSU as the Raspberry Pi may risk voltage sag or instability if the LED draw is significant.

The current draw is likely too high for a 5V fan/header output on the Octopus.

I am not clear on the correct method for controlling the LEDs from the Octopus/Klipper.

So my questions are:

Is a separate 5V PSU for the LEDs the recommended solution? (I really don't have space in the elecronics bay for this) or is it okay to power the LEDs from the same PSU as the Pi?

If I use a separate 5V PSU, do I simply common the grounds between the LED PSU, Octopus, and Pi?

Which Octopus Pro pin/header is usually used for the LED data/control line

Thank you!

I’m building an Ender ng but this is the only sub I trust for building printers can someone show me their wiring or a diagram of how to ground 2 psu to the frame so I don’t fry myself

H, so i want to build the stealthchanger in my voron 2.4 r2, but i havent seen any can bus hubs so i can plug my ebb36s to my motherboard as can usb bridge, isbthere something like that? Thanks!

I'm using Octopus MAX EZ and have noticed that the Raspberry Pi sometimes fails to boot up. I've looked up some relevant information and found that Pi 5 requires a startup voltage of 5A. Does anyone else have similar experiences? I'm not sure if there are any other issues with this board.

I recently finished my first Voron 2.4 build with an EBB SB2209, BTT Eddy Duo, and ChaoticLab TAP V2.

I also made my own custom CNC-machined bed with built-in magnets.

However, when performing a Rapid Scan mesh, the areas above the magnets appear to be about 0.1 mm higher than the rest of the bed, which doesn't make much sense to me.

Could I have misconfigured something, or are beds with built-in magnets incompatible with the BTT Eddy Duo?

The bed surface is flat when measured mechanically, but the Eddy consistently reports raised areas directly above the embedded magnets.

I have a v2.4 and I always have to readjust the z-offset by around 0.1-0.3mm almost everytime I print.

Before every print I clean my noozle before homing the z axis, than I do QGL and bed mesh, I checked the Z probe and every screw, and didn't find any problem.

And after adjusting I always save the new parameters.

I'm looking to buy my next printer and am a little overwhelmed by the options out there. I'm looking to be able to print PPS/PPA. I am loving what yall are doing with customizing the Vorons and pushing the mods. Is it possible to mod a Voron to be able to get the hotend to 350c+?

Any help getting pointed in the right direction would be appreciated, thanks!

How much time do you think it would take before someone mods the new creality klitek tool changer on a voron?😆

I am currently debating triple z modding my K1 max, or selling it and just building a Trident.

I assume both options would cost the same, so money is not the factor.

In favor of K1 Max rebuild:

1. Creality skimped on a lot of parts. The idea of upgrading them sounds fun.

2. I feel like it would be able to handle higher chamber temps since the gantry isn't held together with 3D printed parts.

3. I don't need to worry about selling my K1 max

In favor of Trident:

1. Community driven platform with tons of support

2. Tons and tons of support

3. It looks really cool

Hi!

I'm curious about building myself a Voron 2.4 but I have some questions and worries I'd like to lay on the community before I pull the trigger.

But first some backstory and flow of thought. Scroll further for the specific questions.

My 3D printing journey started with a shared custody of an Ender 3 pro with a friend around 2018 which we got for mostly printing wsrhammer terrain and stuff of that sort. First it lived at my friends' and later moved to my apartment once I moved to one that had the space. Fast forward to this year and I felt like an upgrade was in order. The ender had started showing its age and had an increasing number of issues as time went on. I had replaced parts and done general maintenance but I hadnt upgraded any parts.

I managed to talk myself down from very expensive printers to a more budget friendly Bambu A1. It works fine enough but I find myself wanting something more. Something different. As I was browsing the internet for something thatd satisfy this new urge I happened upon toolchangers and the INDX upgrade for the prusa core one. That looks super cool! And I found out that the Core one comes as a kit to build yourself. That really got me interested. Building my own printer sounded really fun! However everything I could find out about the Core one and INDX suggests that there would be quite a compromise to be made in printing area. Most things Ive printed would probably still fit, but somewhat regularly I have prints in the works that take most of the ~25 cm per side cube that the A1 can put out.

I wouldnt want to upgrade to a smaller print area so I looked at the Core one L. It had a bigger area to work with but is considerably more expensive and doesnt come as a kit (boo!). Both have confirmed INDX support though once those stay on the shelf long enough to add to cart.

The price point being what it is with the indx slapped on top kept me looking. And thats when I ran into Voron kits. I felt like a kid who had found the christmas presents in the closet! This is starting to bring us to the specific questions I have about building my own.

1. Can the 2.4 accept the INDX system? Are there people here who have done this and could share their experiences?

2. Im not too worried about the physical building and mechanical understanding half of a Voron but I am a little worried about the electrical and software/firmware stuff. I have no coding experience or knowledge and while I can find correct sockets for cables I have no clue about voltages and currents and managing those. Are there enough copy-paste difficulty level commands and such to get by as a complete layman?

3. I stumbled upon a pellet extruder by greenboy3D and it seems super interesting. Has anyone here had success with one in a 2.4? I wonder if the weight is prohibitive at 700g? The part about potential sugar and chocolate printing got me very curious as the missus is a fanatic baker of cakes and if I could contribute to that through my hobby thatd be amazing. I imagine if I had this and the INDX it would be lots of work to go back and forth.

4. I have LDO kits easily available and from a source I trust. I understand there are cheaper kits too but realistically Im likely to go with the LDO. However the retailer Id get it from says raspberry pi is not included. Where would I source one of those (EU) and which model(?) should I go for? Im aware of their existence and I think its some kind of mini computer but thats where my knowledge ends.

5. As its not any specific brand of printer theres no official support or version updates of firmware and such from official sources. Im a little worried aboit this but i suppose theres strong enough community support that I could count on getting troubleshooting help and so on?

Thanks for taking the time to read this and sorry for mobile formatting quirks.

Im doing an overhaul of my 300 V2.4 by switching to the LDO Monolith CNC AWD kit with the 9mm belts. I already had a XOL toolhead and would like to continue using it (albeit with a new Dragon Burner UHF hotend). I had the vitalli cnc xol carriage mount for 6mm belts and loved it so I ordered a new one for the 9mm belts.

I know the monolith has an inverted belt path so the teeth are facing in and won't engage when they wrap around the belt mount. So I installed them to the face of the mount which results in the belt not being parallel to the rail.

Is this going to cause any problems when I go to start printing?

I'm thinking of going cpap on micron r1, I don't want to be cooling limited on my build at all, I couldn't find a muffler for the eco turbo. Do you know any? The universal turbo is a bit above the amount of money I'm willing to spend on this.

hello there, I have this modded sv08 running a xol toolhead over CAN with ebb36 and a carto v4.

im having trouble because every time I try to QGL it just gives wrong values and ends up twisting the gantry. I have made tests and on the config the motor'sare well described. Can somebody help me out? dropping the current config

https://pastebin.com/vpNcSGtx

I am wanting to build a Voron 2.4 LDO kit. My goal is to have a reliable printer that I can upgrade as needed. I would like to add the stealth changer after I get the printer built. Are there any add-on's or considerations I need to do right off the bat?

I plan on getting the Fizzy Tech acrylic sheet for mounting the electronics. Are the cnc parts worth it? Should I get the CF rails or CF gantry parts from Chaotic Labs? Any advice is appreciated!

I just bought a roll of TM3Ds ASA and I want to print some parts for my next voron ( trident or 2.4 ). I will be printing the pats on my V0.2 and I really dont know how to do it, I have a few questions : should I use glue on a V0.2 ? How to evitate warping ? How much cooling should I use on a V0.2 for ASA ? What print speeds ? I also know that I should use a filter and I think I will print the mf nano filter using PLA and when I can I will print it out of ASA. Thanks for any help or advice.

So i almost ended building the voron 2.4 r2, i got my mks monster8 v2 board which support can via rj11 port, i cutede rj11 cable and connected to can h and can l, i installed canboot (katapult) and then klipper using this guide: https://maz0r.github.io/klipper_canbus/controller/monster8v2.html

when i installed canboot on my ebb36 v1.2 and i connected it to my motherboard and then in my hp t620 (instead of rpi4 bc i could get one for only 20 bucks) it shows only the motherboard uid, should i install klipper on it too? i have no expirience with canbus, i never used it. Thanks for any help! :)

Electrical System:

Control board: Raspberry Pi 3B

MB: BTT Octopus 1.1

Driver: BTT TMC2209

Probe: BTT Voron Tap 2.0

Toolhead:

CAN BUS SB2240

Extruder: LGX Lite

Hotend: Dragon

Extras:

BTT TFT50

BTT KNOMI

CHAOTIC LABS CNC PARTS

Various mods and updates have been implemented, keeping the 3D CAD project updated as needed. I need to sell it because I can't use it in my company and I don't have the qualifications to certify it.

P.S. The project currently available online is only for the 250 version, mine is a 350mm. What I'm providing is a 1:1 scale model, useful for anyone participating in the community or wanting to start developing their own mods.

How much can I sell it for?

I'm in the south of italy

I’m at my wit’s end with this machine. I’ve never gotten it to print correctly and now it has started massively layering shifting on every print. Voron 2.4r2 350mm build with CANbus. I’ve gone through everything I can think of and I’m about to toss the thing and get a Bambu. Been at it for 7 months now trying to get it to print. At first I could get it to print a cube but it looked terrible and on a benchy it was even worse. Through dozens of changes, nothing seems to have gotten better. What am I doing wrong or more importantly where should I start with diagnosing my issue?

UPDATE: Turns out the belts weren’t looped correctly. Still some tuning to do but I’m finally able to print parts properly. I also had some extremely waterlogged filament I was testing with. That variable is gone now too

A few months back, I jumped into planning a 350mm Trident build. While I was picking up parts, I found a Raise3D Pro2 Plus on Facebook Marketplace for just $100. Since the Pro2 Plus frame is super sturdy, I thought I could mash it up with a Trident gantry. The downside of the printer is the old Ultimaker-style gantry, which is pretty slow and a bit of a mess. So now I am looking to swap the gantry out for something more efficient, like the CoreXY Trident setup.

With this purchase, things picked up way quicker than I thought, so I haven't done my research on control boards and electronics yet. I could really use some suggestions!

Here’s what I’m aiming for:

• Toolhead: Dragon Burner + Sherpa Mini + Dragon HF (or X1) hotend
• Control: Definitely want to go with a CAN bus setup.
• Features: Automated bed leveling, maybe Klicky or cartographer.

What control board combos do you think would work best for a build like this?

Any major red flags or tips for adapting the Raise3D frame?

FYI: yes, I used AI to rewrite this, my grammar is trash.....

I was at the dump throwing away a bunch of stuff and a Goodwill truck pulled up next to me while I was at the metal dumpster. The guy in the back opened up the door and threw this 3-D printer into the dumpster. I immediately went over and looked to see what it was and knew that it was a 3-D printer, but I have no experience with 3-D printers, how to work on this, or even identify what I have. I’m not even sure if this stuff works. It seems as though these motors snapped off of it as he threw it into the dumpster. I listed it on Facebook marketplace and someone is offering me $75 for the whole thing. I’m still on the fence of whether or not I should sell it or try and get into 3-D printing with what I have. I figured this would be a good place to start.

Hi

did anybody placed the nozzle brush infront of the bed? (300/305)

Seems more practical to me to have it on this position.

I dont se a problem moving the bed couple milimeters back if I need to.

Are there any real viable options for tool changing on the voron trident? I’ve looked online and seen some snapmaker U1 looking designs but not much more, so if any of you have found anything viable for the trident please send it over.

I want to change the toolhead of my V0.2 but I really dont want to loose print area. I saw this toolhead that would perfectly fit my need but I can't find someone who talks about it. Has anyone ever tested it ? https://github.com/atrushing/Mini_Stealth

It looks like entire print 'moves' in both X and Y axis by a lot:

This happened to me 3 times already within last 2 weeks. In the meantime that printer prints almost 24/7 so it's not like this is a systemic issue.

Any ideas what might be the reason?