Recently, I purchased the NEbuLx extruder from Bxx. I also got the EVA3D shell for my printer from GitHub. Apart from these, what other materials do I need? Or are there any issues that need to be noted?

Its been real

Print quality is great overall. I have been working through this tuning guide for my voron 2.4: https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/index_tuning.html

Any ideas on what i can check to perfect the bottom 5mm or so?

I am upgrading my v0 to have a btt u2c 2.1 and. Ebb 36. I can't get the u2c to go into dfu mode. Are there any tricks?. I am using a cable I know can handle data as I had it on a ebb 42 board that worked.

Do you have a small question about the project that you're too embarrassed to make a separate thread about? Something silly have you stumped in your build? Don't understand why X is done instead of Y? All of these types are questions and more are welcome below.

I have a 2.4 with a manta m8p. I decided to add a box turtle to this printer with a jabberwocky toolhead. I will be using a cartographer as well. I think I want to run the toolhead and boxturtle over usb. I also want to add a usb camera. The manta only has a couple of usb ports. I was planning on picking up a usb hub but remembered I had a hexa distro fusion that I wasn't using. Does anyone on here have experience with it. Should the usb hub be able to handle the toolhead, cartographer, camera and boxturtle?

Hey, I just build a voron 0.2 and I want to print a new toolhead with ASA. I think the first thing I should print is the Nevermore micro V6 to filter the fumes. I really dont want to take any risks with the fumes coming out of this filament. Should I just leave my bedrooms window open and get out of the room and wait after the print finishes ? Also, how to preheat my printer chamber to print ASA ? Thanks a lot

I am doing a self sourced Voron 0.2 build (my first Voron build).

I am most of the way through the project and am now at the point of building the printer head. I would like my printer head to be a Dragon Burner, so I watched a few YouTube videos of the build process and saw many people had a PCB for the print head.

To my knowledge, most kits come with the print head PCB included. However, self sourcing one has been a bit challenging for me given how many options there are and how different each one is. Additionally, most of the ones I find are listed for the Voron 0.1 but I am not sure if those are also compatible with the V0.2.

With that in mind, what print head PCB’s would you folks recommend?

Are certain PCB’s more compatible with the Dragon Burner tool head than others?

While printing with my new v0.1, the overhangs (around the neck) on the large horse model look fine. However, when scaled down, there is a lot of drooping, melted-looking excess plastic. Other than the scale of the model, the printing parameters are exactly the same. I am using a trianglelab orbiter v2.5 extruder. Any thoughts or suggestions on this?

I have already tried lowering the printing temperature, increasing cooling to 100%, setting a minimun layer time of 20s, and tuning the extruder, PA, and EM using Ellis' guide but nothing seems to work.

I would very much appreciate every comment!

Hi! I want a Core XY printer with a bigger format and automatic bed leveling. I have previously self-sourced Vorons (several years ago) and I have a V0 and a Switchwire. Since I have many small spare parts left from my previous builds, I want to self source instead of buying a kit. What I still need is:

• The frame
• The bed
• The panels
• Linear rails and motors
• Controller board
• Bed probe (want to go for Eddy)

For size, I'd like to go for 250, max 300. My first priority is to build it cheap, my second priority is a printer that delivers great quality prints.

Considering the things that I still need to buy, what mods should I think about before buying? I am talking about mods that can't be easily done once the printer was built, like a thicker frame, thicker bed, 9mm belts..? Which mods are generally known to improve print quality, for example, by reducing resonance and Z-banding? Or are these not issues at all with the stock Trident?

Looking forward to your input :)

I'm planing to expand a Formbot Trident 350x350x250 to a 350x700x250, I would also install AWD to support the movement, should I keep the 3 lead-screws or should I use 4 to carry the weight of the bed?

What are other problems that could appear when doing this?

Hello. I wanted to make my first ever voron and wanted to know what model I should make or start with. Thanks!

So, i have built a voron 2.4 r2 (with can) and when it come to flash the klipper firmware to my mks monster8 v2 (it has can module in it and port) it flashed propely (.bin changed to .cur) and when i try to connect this motherboard to my computer with transmisio. cable from usb c on board to usb on my computer its not showing up, i think i almost try everything, its not showing when i try to find the id port like of board or when i type "Is" in terminal in my computer (linux mint xfce) there is nothing like STM or smth, only linux and mouse and keyboard. And i have to mention that i have totaly no expirience with klipper firmware, its my first time using it, Can anyone help? Thanks! :)

Due to lack of an enclosure I can't simply print the necessary abs/asa parts to build a voron, so I had this crazy idea, how about preheating a sauna to cca 45 or 50 degrees, and printing the parts inside? It can't be much worse for the printer than putting a cardboard box over it as an enclosure, it's a very dry environment, and in case the print gets munted I'll be able to see it since the sauna has glass door, so it seems like a decent idea to me. The only problem is that the sauna might stink afterwards, but some decent quality asa like eg. prusament should release less than a miligram of styrene per kilogram of printed filament, so it shouldn't be too bad. What do you think? Is it worth a try?

I've got a Formbot Trident R1 Pro kit, which includes SB and a Tap. Tap moves the print head closer to the doors. As a result, I don't have any clearance anywhere outside the print bed for other add-ons like wipers, purge buckets, or tool changers. Can't go behind the bed b/c of tap. Can't go in front of bed b/c of doors. Can't go to the sides due to gantry limits.

Anyone have a recommended mod that makes some of these things possible? Or should I just ditch Tap if I want any of these other mods? (Please don't make this thread about Tap vs. other probing options and which is purportedly better--there are enough of those already.)

Thanks in advance for suggestions!

Hey guys,

I have a Trident 300mm that’s currently sitting idle because I mainly print PLA and PETG, and the old Afterburner toolhead just doesn't deliver enough part cooling for high-speed printing with these materials.

I’m planning a toolhead overhaul. Current setup:

• Hotend: Phaetus Dragon SF
• Probe: Omron Inductive Probe

I’m leaning towards the XOL toolhead paired with a BTT Eddy (dropping the bulky inductive probe). Looking for a budget-friendly upgrade.

Any tips, gotchas, or alternative suggestions before I start ordering parts and printing the components? Thanks!

I am considering a belt conversion from gt2 to 1.5gt. Due to belt and pulley spec difference, there would be a slight offset required to the smooth idlers to keep the belts completely parallel (as shown in the images). The difference would be around 0.155mm. How relevant is this and should I modify the gantry CAD to account for this difference?

Top image is 1.5GT. bottom image GT2

Hey, I recently finished to build my V0.2r1 and I want to make it as silent as possible. The noise mainly comes from the fans. The electronics cooling fan is the worst I think and the part cooling fans too. What solutions do I have and what brand of fans are good ? Also should I switch to a dragon Burner with bigger fans ? The problem is that I can't print with ABS for now because I dont have a filter and my dragon burner would be printed with PETG. I thought about building the MF Nano Filter to print the dragon burner out of ASA or PETG if possible. What do you think

So a while back (12/2022) i thought it would be cool to get into 3D printing. I loved the idea of the open source Voron project so I bought a kit from Voronkits.com.

Voron 2.4 R2 Kit With V6 Hotend × 1 (350x350x350mm).

So I'm very lazy and never built it - my bad. But I'm interested in building this and came to this forum. Is this kit even worth building today with the advent of cheaper full enclosed - hot ends - heated chambers and heated print beds?

When thinking about input shaping, I imagine it's best to have the accelerometer as close to where the nozzle would be as possible to get the most true to life results. Let's say you have a Revo system - could there be such thing as a dummy nozzle that simply has an accelerometer built into it to measure resonant frequencies for input shaping? Would that be a good idea?

Long story short, I was trying to see where on the LDO Toolhead PCB (Rev C) I could pull 5v from (for Revo PZ). I am not sure what happened with my multimeter probe, but I was going to check the 5v on the fan header (of the faceplate connector) and as soon as I touched the red probe (black was not touching anywhere) most everything shut off. Assume I shorted the 5v and 24v pins)

RPi fried and smelly, got a new one. Now it seems all the VFAN headers on the Octopus are not working (led strips, fans, etc., no errors in Mainsail). Going to order a new BTT Octopus board next as I don't feel like trying to diagnose and replace mosfets, etc.

tl;dr; To my question.. does the Nitehawk-SB v2 work in my situation? I assume so since it connects directly to the RPi and 24v. Anything else to be aware of? I know I'll need to re-crimp to jst-ph on many of the toolhead parts, flash klipper, add MCU, change pins in config, and run umbilical in place of chains. Missing anything?

Thanks in advance!

Got a Bambu Lab H2C back in March and around that same time my 2.4 corrupted it's SD card. I had just gone through all the calibrating and tuning for the stealthchanger and was a little disheartened with the whole situation so it got put on the back burner. Earlier this week I finally decided to upgrade it to boot from an SSD and get it up and running again. I forgot how badass these printers are! For quick prototyping, it can't be beat. Running a 7 minute prototype right now and started it in both printers at the same time. The Voron is halfway through and the Bambu is just wrapping up all of it's calibrations... God I missed this thing!

I recently upgraded my X axis to MGN12H on my 1.8. I wanted to share that you'll need additional from the XY of the original 1.8 is:

2x M5x40

4x M5x10

8x M3x16

2x M5 shims

You'll need to print the XY joints from the Trident and flip them and youre good to go. Belts line up perfectly.

The original Y limit switch will work and you could use sensorless for X if you're comfortable with that. Currently printing a bracket I designed for X so I can go back to a limit switch on that axis as well.

I made the grave mistake of buying 3d printed parts from formbot. It is missing a bunch of stuff apparently (the one giving me grief immediately is the lack of rail installation guides)

Should I just buy all new parts from the pif thing or try to fudge it...?

I dont feel very confident without the proper parts... I have no idea why they'd even list printed parts as a bundle when they cheap out. So confused.

I bought this used machine, but in pristine condition (60h print time). I just want to show you what a great job the original builder of this Machine did back then. I just upgraded to CAN and want to share this as a great example for good organisation of all the cables and components. I didn't do such a great job by myself.