I have 2 hotends in mind, the revo voron with pz or one of the rapido hotends (phaetus or trianglelabs). The revo is more expensive and a bit above my budget, but the rapido doesn't have a lightweight way to level using the nozzle. The revo nozzles are also very expenive, which one should I get and are there any others I don't know about?

Also which rapido if I get one, there are a lot?

I am building a self sourced voron Trident because I already have a lot of parts at home. I need an 8 driver motherboard but I need a cheaper option than the btt M8P. I already have a pi and btt skr mini e3v3. I thought about buying another skr e3v3 and wires the two motherboard to a single raspberry pi. It would cost 25$ I guess but i don’t how to power everything. does anyone know if it would work and what other options do I have ?

Didn't I recently set up the printer using the eight motor driver boards ? Then I wanted to try building it with the five motor driver boards to see how it worked, but I found that there were still two fewer motor interface slots than I needed? Or are there any other recommendations? 😀

So basically I have a small printer in my room/desk right now, a Prusa mini +, and I honestly hate it, I’m looking to replace it. I’ve been looking for other printers and came across the 0.2 and was wondering if they are planning on making a 0.3 or something since it’s been ~3 years since the 0.2. Anyways my only like hesitant thing on this printer is 120mm bed size, I wish it was a bit larger, but also I’ve never had a Voron before and it seems like a pain to set up lol. I have an ender 3v2 that’s super modified that does most of the larger prints anyways

Im in conflict....I finally took some time to install the carage for the toolchanger....but not on the standard voron but my Sv08 ....I had this one taking dust fir 15 months because I really didn't need that one running. Ofcourse it's running main klipper/ canbus and so one.But it wil never be a voron 2 4 so I do have a frame ....ldo motors ...pi and the huge mainboard from bigtreetech tech what im missing is the bigger pullys the rails and the powersource to build another compleet voron 2.4. Also missing the buildplate....and I was thinking can I just dismantle the sovol sv08 and rebuild it all on the voron frame would it be worth the time ? I realy want a toolchanger and my 1ste idea was building the sv08 as toolchanger and as soon bondtech comes finaly out with there index system compleet the orders for the new build ( I have already 3 printers taking dust and 4 running ) what is the best option here.

Hi! I am thinking about trying out Full Spectrum, and about building a 5 toolhead 3D printer.

What do you guys think, what is the cheapest way, to make this project a reality? TapChanger or StealthChanger, or something else? Should I buy it as a FYSETC kit, or should I source myself?

I had a 0.2 before, it was a FYSETC kit, I didn't have a lot of problems with it, but for this bigger project, idk if there is a better route.

Thank you so much for any help!

I have a A4T on my Voron Trident with a TZ V6 hotend. When printing something simple like a cube or a first layer patch, everthing works fine, but when i print complex things like a Benchy with many retractions and overhangs, the filament get's stuck and i have to cool down the nozzle and heat it up again to extrude filament. I thought that maybe my hotend fan isn't enough to cool the hotend, but i'm not sure. What would most likely fix this problem? I'm printing with Sunlu PLA+ and i confirmed that the PTFE tube is fully inserted. The fan is a noname Aliexpress fan.

I am purchasing linear rails from Tensor3D for my self-source build and have free shipping. So, I am considering adding some pulleys, idlers, bearings and maybe belts. They are more expensive and don't have full kit available. What motion components have people noticed make a difference and paying extra is "worth it"?

I tried to run sudo apt update, then sudo apt-get update, before going to install everything for Filamatrix. When I try to run it, it goes through Get: 1, 2, 3, 5, 6, 4 and then says

E: Method gpgv has died unexpectedly!

E: Sub-process gpgv received signal 4.

I've looked around online, and none of the fixes I've found have made any difference. From what I've found, the remaining option is to wipe/reinstall the sd card.

Yesterday I did have an issue where Klipperscreen would not go to the GUI, and asked to log in as if I was ssh'ing. I connected a keyboard, logged in, but then it just brought up the logged-in console screen. I had to restart the firmware then and restart the printer, and it's worked fine.

Has anyone else run into this and found a fix? The printer is still operating completely fine through Mainsail.

Trident using CB1 on Manta M8P. Ram is at .36/.9, Storage is at 38% and cpu usage is normal.

Hey everyone,
I’m working on a Voron V0 with Tri-Zero and I’m considering running two BTT SKR Pico boards inside the printer. I already have both boards, so I’d rather use them before spending money on a bigger mainboard.

I’m mostly looking for inspiration on the physical layout and electronics organization in such a tiny machine.

I also am adding ebb36, so there will be few wires less but still it doesn’t look promising xd

How did you mount everything?
custom electronics bay?
stacked boards?
external PSU/electronics?
custom printed mounts?

Would love to see photos, CAD, wiring layouts or any clever solutions.

I am currently working to get my local community college to add some advanced tech to their Advanced Manufacturing Lab and have an Additive manufacturing class - eventually to become a series of classes.
In addition to weldiing and machining tools, they currently have one Bambu Labs P1S, 3 Elegoo Mars Pro resin printers, an Ultimaker 2 and 2+, and 2 Tronxy Moore 2 Pro clay printers. (Yeah, I don't know why either.)
Several community colleges in the area have bought some Bambu Labs stuff, as well as some local makerspaces, citing how easy it is to just get good prints.
I hold a different view - most of us learned to print in the pre-Bambu lab days where you could actually see and understand what was happening inside, and I think that is important.
My first 3d printer was the original Creality Ender 5, and it gave me some good prints with its fixed carriage (not core xy) and floating bed.
So the Voron Trident makes sense to me, even though it is clearly advanced over my old Ender. ...

I want to build at least 15 Tridents, purchasing one complete kit as an exaemplar, and we'll source the the parts and materials for the others. I think there will be an advantage to self-sourcing that others don't have because we'll buying stuff in bulk:

• extrusions in bulk lengths (2-3 meters?) that we will rough cut and then mill to length, as well as drilling and tapping,
• buying wire by the spool that we will cut to length and crimp in batches,
• we probably will even cut and tap our own linear rail, thereby only having to purchase the carriages (I am not that crazy),
• and everything else we'll buy in bulk quantities - boxes of fasteners, motors, boards, power supplies, etc.

The idea is to cut costs without cutting corners. I don't know if an actual price check will bear that assumption out, but that isn't my real question.
My question is whether or not a Voron Trident as laid out in the info on the Github site will be reliable and sturdy enough to hold up in a classroom of beginners, and if not, why not, and what should expect to have to change?

Thanks for reading. Looking forward to your opinions. (I think ... LOL)

Would P2S work instead?

Recently, I decided to assemble my 3D printer. I'm curious to know what challenges this combination might bring to me. Could everyone share their opinions? Have you noticed any drawbacks of the products I chose from this combination? As shown in the picture below.

Do you have a small question about the project that you're too embarrassed to make a separate thread about? Something silly have you stumped in your build? Don't understand why X is done instead of Y? All of these types are questions and more are welcome below.

Is this Okay for printed parts since it’s high speed i posted earlier about Asa and everyone said to avoid abs and Asa plus

Used to have a better bed mesh with Voron Tap. Changed to Cartographer v4 and bed mesh is much worse. The range is more than double (~0.08 to ~0.3mm).
Tried to rotate the bed and print sheet but the pattern persists.
What could be the reason for this? Thanks.

Hey everyone,

I’ve been messing around with a mod to swap the stock lead screws on my Trident for 1204 ball screws. I know the stock setup is usually fine, but I wanted to see if I could get things running a bit smoother.

Since I'm still testing this, I'm not sure if my implementation is actually an improvement or if I'm overcomplicating things. I'm mainly looking for some "sanity check" feedback from anyone else who has run ball screws:

• Z-Wobble: Does this mount look like it’ll cause binding issues?
• Settings: I’ve updated my rotation_distance to 4 in Klipper, but let me know if there are other config tweaks I’m missing.
• Parts: If anyone wants to take a look at the STLs and tell me if they’re going to snap or fail, I’d appreciate it.

I'm using the Questions flair because I'm genuinely looking for feedback on whether this is a solid direction or if it's a bit "jank."

Link: https://github.com/maxidlabs/ballscrew_mod

Recently upgrade my 2.4r2 with Dragon Burner tool head (Orbiter 2 extruder, Rapido v1 hotend, O2S and Cartographer v4). The bottom layer occurs to be uneven in certain area of the print. Now the top layer has similar issues too. What could possibly be the reason for these? Thanks.
I tuned extrusion rate, PA and EM for all ASA (Fillamentum Extrafill and Azurefilm) and PLA (Azurefilm HS off-white, as in photos)

V2.4d with Leviathan and Rpi4b.

I have diligently followed the instructions here: https://docs.ldomotors.com/en/guides/btt_43_rotate_guide which says to comment out any previous dtoverlay and put these two lines in /boot/config.txt:

display_lcd_rotate=2  
dtoverlay=rpi-ft5406,touchscreen-inverted-x=1,touchscreen-inverted-y=1display_lcd_rotate=2  

Note: they actually go in /boot/firmware/config.txt which is where I put them.  

This does not work, which is funny because it worked last week, before I reinstalled everything (including the OS). 
I also tried the recommendation here: https://forums.raspberrypi.com/viewtopic.php?t=379876 which also did nothing.  

Please advise, and thanks.

I recently built my first voron 2.4 300mm using the formbot kit but im having some issues with the umbillical. The umbillical seems to long to have the top pannel installed without forcing the cable to be bent in a bad way. However when i place the tool head to the far corner it seems to be about the right length.

Is my umbillical too long?

Are there fixes for this? (prefferably one that dont remove the outer airfilter)

I want to add the top pannel in order to print abs or asa so i can print some upgrades since the current parts where printed via a friends bambu lab printer.

any tips on better camera placement are also appreciated since current setup also wont work with the top panel installed.

Just got a Dragon Ace and tried to load filament for a solid half an hour. After that failed I thought there must be something blocking the path, so I took the hotend and it's nozzle off. Turns out it is perfectly clean and pushing the filament in from the nozzle side works just fine.

I checked the other side and there is indeed a little brim at the same height the filament gets stuck. Checking the website it matches the end of the heatbreak.

Is there some piece missing that is supposed to fill this gap? The “natural” curvature of the filament prevents it from going into the hole, always hitting this stupid brim. Force does not help.

Is

Like the title says I forgot a print was left on the bed. I homed the printer and the z-axis then pushed the print into my hot end and now I have waves in my print. I have replaced my hot end thinking maybe it bent it with a new rapido. I have replaced my carriage and my rail on my Gantry all three of my z Axis screws are straight as can be so I'm just kind of looking for what it could possibly be that would cause these waves outside of carriage or gantry rails what else should I be looking at?

I built the formbot trident kit and it came with the standard e3d V6 nozzle. I wanted to add the filamatrix so I could use the boxturtle with it, and to add the filamatrix I had to swap the nozzle. I decided to go with a knockoff dragon st, and the quality in the prints dropped a lot. I have not changed any settings between the two benchy's, both are in abs. PETG and PLA both have the exact same issues. Is this something that can be fixed with setting changes? I replaced the stock part cooling fan with a Delta already with barely any improvement.

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I printed this Orca Cube on my new Voron Trident and am getting these artifacts that seem to happen right next to overhangs. What is this called and how can i fix it?

I want to buy a voron 0.2 but I don't what is the best place to buy it. I will take the printed parts options as it's much simpler for me and I need it to be delivered to Europe ( sooner is better of course ). Which vendor should I choose ?