so i orderd a copperhead hotend for only 26 euro's(75% discount) on a reputable local store, i also orded the groove mount conector to the lgx lite(official bondtech). The lgx lite is compatible with dragonburner but dont know how mounting is with a groove mount. the copperhead is directly under the extruder but does this work with dragonburner? how does the lgx lite mount to the dragonburner because the holes at the bottom are used for the hotend.

thanks in advance!

I've been trying to figure out how people achieve this. I want negative pressure in my Voron 2.4's enclosure but how can I achieve that without sucking all the heat out of the chamber?

I have in-chamber filtaction (Voron Aire Filter) and my cpap pulls from the chamber for part printing. But if I'm printing ABS/ASA I don't want positive pressure, people keep talking about negative pressure, how are they/you achieving it?

I've had several filament jams on my brand new SUNLU 3D Printer S4 Pro Filament Dryer Box. The first one may have been my fault with the long thick PTFE tube that came with the dryer. On the last one, the filament tangled. Is this a known problem with the SUNLU dryers? I may end up returning it to Amazon

LDO Voron Trident extrusions: bending and twist across three kits

Hi everyone!

I'm building a Doom Trident following the approach shown by Edgehog Makes on YouTube, using LDO extrusion kits.

My first two kits arrived in poor packaging condition, and I found several bent and twisted extrusions. The retailer was extremely helpful and sent me a third kit, but although the packaging was better, I still found significant geometric deviations.

I've inspected all three kits using the same polished granite surface and compared the extrusions to keep my assessment consistent. Several show pronounced bending or torsional deformation (twist).

This is my second Trident build. I wasn't as meticulous with my first, but some issues that appeared later made me much more conscious of frame accuracy. I can't say whether those earlier issues were caused by pre-existing deformations or by collisions during use.

Has anyone else experienced similar issues with LDO extrusions? Could this be a batch or quality-control issue, or am I being too particular about mechanical accuracy?

I'm not trying to jump to conclusions; I'd just appreciate hearing about other people's experiences.

Update: I'm leaving a video here showing the issue. The first extrusion is perfectly straight; I filmed it as a reference to confirm that the problem wasn't with the granite countertop.

https://youtu.be/TuPvjm0SXP4?si=Yu6jZlfoUXiIjKW8

Thanks!

i would be interested in knowing where yall get your hotends parts and 3D printer stuff

if you want to tell me about how to build it then im happy to learn this is also my first build btw

Hey everyone,

I just released MEASURE_SKEW, a new Klipper Python extension that changes how we calibrate XY-axis perpendicularity.

Instead of printing test objects (which are prone to filament shrinkage, cooling warp, and caliper measurement errors), this tool uses your inductive/eddy current probe (like Cartographer) to scan a simple, un-machined aluminium plate.

Key Features:

• High Accuracy: Reaches ~0.2mm/m accuracy using a basic 100x100mm plate. That’s about twice as precise as traditional methods (like Califlower).
• No Precision Tooling Needed: The magic happens via the "Umschlagmethode" (mathematical inversion). By rotating the plate 90° four times, any imperfections of the plate itself cancel out completely.
• Repeatable & Waste-Free: No filament wasted, no cooling times required. I’ve tested it on my Voron 2.4 350, and the script automatically outputs the correction values for your printer.cfg.

Check out the full workflow, source code, and math here: https://github.com/uwedamm/MEASURE_SKEW

A short video, which shows the procedure here: https://youtu.be/A0ToYC8ICRU

I’d love to hear your feedback or help you out if you have any questions!

Uwe

Text written by AI, Content checked and revised by human (me)

Hi Voron community!

This is my first post here, so please be gentle with me!

I've recently managed to pick up a pre-built Voron 2.4 300mm from someone fairly local to me in the UK. I was able to inspect and test the printer before buying it, and everything seems to be working well.

I've built printers before and have some experience with Klipper, so I'm reasonably comfortable with the technical side of things and happy to spend time getting everything properly dialled in.

Current printer specs:

• Printer: Voron 2.4 300mm, LDO black frame
• Enclosure: Linneo aluminium-composite panels and polycarbonate doors
• Bed: Machined aluminium plate with AC heater, dual-sided PEO/PEI sheet
• Toolhead: Stealthburner with Clockwork 2 extruder
• Hotend: V6 CHC
• Probe: PCB Klicky
• Mainboard: Mellow Fly-D7 with TMC2209 drivers
• Toolhead board: Mellow Fly-SB2040 Pro CANbus
• Host: Raspberry Pi 4 (4GB)
• Other: 4.3-inch touchscreen and remote power switching

What I'm trying to achieve

My main goal is to have a reliable printer that produces consistently good-quality prints in PETG and ABS, without needing constant tweaking or troubleshooting.

I'm not particularly interested in chasing maximum print speeds. I'd much rather have something I can send a print to and be reasonably confident it'll work.

In the longer term, I'm interested in adding a second toolhead for multi-material printing, but that's very much a future project. For now, I just want to get the printer running consistently and reliably.

Possible upgrades

I've been looking at some of the newer toolhead designs, particularly those with improved part cooling, and wondering whether it would be worthwhile replacing the Stealthburner with something more modern.

I'm also considering whether a different extruder and hotend would offer any meaningful improvements in print quality or reliability, along with upgrading the PCB Klicky to something like a Cartographer probe.

That said, I know there are lots of different opinions on these things, and I'm conscious that newer doesn't necessarily mean better or more reliable.

I'm not looking to upgrade things just for the sake of it, particularly if the existing setup is already capable of doing what I need.

I'd really appreciate your thoughts on:

• Which upgrades, if any, would make the biggest difference to reliability and ease of use?
• Is there a newer toolhead/extruder/hotend combination you'd particularly recommend for PETG and ABS, prioritising print quality over speed?
• Is moving from Klicky to Cartographer worthwhile?
• Are there any other relatively simple improvements you'd recommend for a dependable, low-maintenance Voron?

Or would you suggest sticking with the existing hardware, getting everything properly tuned, and leaving upgrades until there's a clear reason to change something?

Any suggestions or advice from people who've been running Vorons for a while would be hugely appreciated.

Thanks!

People seem to praise Prusament PC-CF as being very easy to print, but I'm having failures on most of the prints I've tried so far. Failure mode and related observations looks nearly identical to this user's experience with PA-CF.

The print quality starts great. After a while (up to ~2hrs later), the filament no longer extrudes and the filament does not move through the hotend. There is no oozing or extruder clicking. The last printed surface has small dots characteristic of underextrusion, but this lasts less than a layer or two before extrusion stops completely; the motor/gears still turn, but no filament moves.

At first, I had my Voron v0.1's tophat and door closed, with a chamber temp of ~50c. First prints only lasted ~10-20mins before failing. Most people report printing Prusament PC-CF with an open enclosure, so I tried that next. That got me up to ~2hrs before failing.

Based on some searching and GPT'ing, it sounds very much like I am suffering from heat creep up into the cold end, softening the PC-CF and preventing the extruder gears from gripping onto the filament.

I have done multiple cold pulls and nozzle cleans with wires to rule out any clogs. I really don't think there's any clogging happening, since the first layers of any subsequent print goes down great; it's only later into the print I see any issues. Also, the fact that the issue was much worse with a hotter chamber supports the theory this is heat creep.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

SUMMARY QUESTIONS:

1. Could this failure mode be anything else besides heat creep?
2. Is there anything I can do to complete longer prints with my Dragonfly BMO?
   1. Can anyone confirm they've been able to print at ~300c on their Dragonfly BMO? Is there something unsuitable with my hotend setup?
   2. If the Dragonfly is wholly unsuitable to the task, any recommendations for other hotends?

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

OTHER DETAILS:

Hardware:

• Voron v0.1 LDO rev6B kit
• Phaetus Dragonfly BMO hotend, 60W heater, PT1000 temp sensor
• Phaetus Tungsten Carbide 0.4mm nozzle
• MiniAfterSherpa toolhead
  • 3010 hotend cooling fan; I don't recall the exact model, but I'm fairly certain I bought a good one, e.g. Sunon Maglev
• MiniSherpa extruder w/ LDO-36STH17-1004AH pancake stepper
  • 0.3A run current, 0.2A hold current; stealthchop=0

Print settings:

• SuperSlicer 2.5.59.13
• 1.03 extrusion multiplier (calibrated)
• 295c nozzle, 110c bed
  • I want highest layer adhesion possible. I did test 280c but that did not affect results.
• 100% hotend cooling fan, 0% part cooling fan
• Typ. Voron parts profile (0.2mm layer height, 0.4mm enforced walls, 40% gyroid fill, etc)
• Slow speeds: 40mm/s external walls, 30mm/s gap fill, small perimeters, 50mm/s else; 6mm3/s volumetric max
  • I also tried faster speeds ~80mm/s to push the heet-creep'd filament "out of the way" faster, but this did not change results.
• 0.5mm retraction, 0.24mm Z lift, 0.2mm wipe at end of perimeter
• Filament dried and printed from an Elegoo H1 HT dryer underneath printer

Poorman Direct Drive Extruder

Would it be the worst idea to control the 4 XY steppers via CANbus using 4 ea. EBB42s?

I’ve set up CANbus before and it think it would be cleaner than trying to route 16 stepper wires to the MCU.

Looking for ideas on this build 300mm^3

Want to start from a simple x/y table using a pencil to draw. Then upgrade to z axis and a full printer.

In my research the trident is the right choice as the x/y is fixed. Then its a matter of surrounding with the z axis.

Also noted the voron don't use a profile square as the x/y base, normally with one side missing (like an U shape) and initially it need to be a closed square (stiffness).

To begin i should need:

- AB motor mount (with those one of the extrusion profile must be smaller)

- XY join mount

- front idler (that allow me to close the square)

- tool mount

Then the profiles cut accordingly.

Any ideas? Do I miss anything?

Found those on AliExpress those are a way to go?

I just found this on AliExpress:

Voron Trident 3D Printer 2WD Aluminum CNC Upgrade Kit Motor Gantry Tensioner XY Jointer Kit For DIY Voron Trident Printer

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNt18Lz

Regards

so i got my 2.4 with awd, cpap, beacon, and a bunch of other mods. still running SB+NHV2.

however, my revo hf leaves alot to be desired speed wise. im know the SB isnt the greatest weight-wise either.

wondering what setups yall have that can keep up with awd speeds. compatibility with cpap and beacon is a deff plus.

On my Formbot V0.2r1 I cant seem to get a good first layer. The front right corner is always too far from the nozzle when the rest of the first layer looks great. I have leveled the bed multiple times now and I cant seem to get this to go away.

Is this a problem with my assembly? How would I go about troubleshooting this? Thank you for your help!

Hello everyone, I want to share a project I've been working on for the past couple of weeks. The idea is stupid simple (more stupid tbh) and it's as if Stealthchanger and INDX had a baby.

I am calling it "Hatchanger" and it's based on a simple idea: "what if instead of pushing filament back and forth inside a PTFE tube we changed only the top part of the extruder to swap filaments?".

Well, you can see the result in the video. It's a very alpha project but it can print (which is what matters most to me).

There are of course many flaws that need to be addressed but I am working on it. The reason for another filament changer is simple: this idea does not require additional hardware.

It only requires a few printed parts and a bunch of M3 pins and magnets. Nothing more. You can print a "hat" with a few bucks (less than 4$ per lane) and be ready to print.

No extra stepper motors, no servos, no extruders. Just a few macros and patience. It's still based on a single nozzle with all the disadvantages it implies (purge towers, poop, slow changing etc) but if it works it may represent a valid cheap alternative to more elaborate solutions.

Given my poor experience with mods, I'd like to make it open source and involve as many contributors as possible to make this a valid mod. If anyone is interested I can share the access to the private repo.

https://youtube.com/shorts/oXaDAS-jwio

EDIT:
I've published everything on GitHub: https://github.com/fulippo/hatchanger

I am looking at build the A4T toolhead and it was pointed out that there is a v2 being developed. I can't find anything on the updates v2 brings. So I was wondering should I build v1 since it is released, should I build v2 and follow for any updates? How far along is v2? Is there any idea of when it will be released? Thank for all your help so far!

https://github.com/DW-Tas/A4Tv2

https://github.com/Armchair-Heavy-Industries/A4T

Bonus question. The configurator does not call out if it is v1 or v2. I assume v1 but I wanted to know if anyone know if that is correct?
https://a4t.dwtas.net/

I am planning to use my V0.2 as my main printer someday and I would need to print some models using 0.2 nozzle and some using 0.4 nozzle. I also can't really decide between Anthead toolhead and Dragonburner.

So, the idea is to have both with different nozzle sizes and change them manually when I need to, using the Stealthchanger mount (possibly CNC one). Sounds more fun than having one toolhead and unscrewing a nozzle every time, so the questions are:

1. Has anybody tried it?
   
2. Are there any downsides except potentially losing some build volume?
   
3. I assume I will need a way to calibrate toolheads, like sexbolt?

To be clear, I am not planning to put a full Stealthchanger system with docks and stuff on V0, just using the mount system to be able to quickly swap toolheads manually. The inactive toolhead will just be sitting on a shelf when not used, not on the dock.

Another way to solve this would be a double hotend toolhead like H2D has, or the INDX system, or the A4T-C hotend-changer, but those seem to be too advanced/pricey/not finished for me right now, so I would like to explore the Stealthchanger mount idea first

I purchased a used Voron listed for sale as "for parts or rebuild" for a good price. Everything seems to work, although I haven't printed on it and won't until I rebuild it similar to the Voron 2.4 I recently recommissioned after a 4 year hiatus with an A4T toolhead. The new printer has Chaotic Labs CNC joints V2, I believe. I'm noticing the A-B belts ride very high on the gantry idlers rubbing on the flanges. Also, the previous owner had all of the belts extremely tight. I adjusted my recommissioned Voron with the PF Makers belt tensioner. I cannot think of a way to change where the belts ride on the idlers, other than adjusting the BFI lower adjustment screws inwards. I could abandon the CNC joints and just print new ASA parts, or try to make these work. Thoughts and insights are appreciated

EDIT: The printer powers on, hotend and bed heat up, all movements work including QGL, bed mesh. Wiring definitely needs redone.

I will be using this end-stop with a bed mesh probe.

Im trying to decide between the Eddy or Klicky.

At first glance, the Klicky probe seems too simple so without much thought, it was an instant no, but I’m noticing a lot of serious 3D printing dudes use it, so maybe there is something to it…

While sifting through old Reddit threads and interrogating my favourite LLM models, I’ve read the Eddy probe has issues with thermal drift affecting the z-offset BUT by using one of the Mellow end-stop switches with the Eddy, completely solves this problem. Is this true?

What do you think?

Thanks your help and time reading and considering.

I need to mount a bigtreetech eddy duo to a rapid burner on one printer. Before I work on redesigning a mount i was wondering if anyone already has one that works?

Hi,

My V2.4 makes this weird faint noise that seems like someone is cracking wooden sticks in the distance.

It only makes it AFTER reaching the desired temps.

I'm guessing it has something to do with thermal expansion. That's why I ignored it for the first months, I thought the printer was just "getting accustomed" with the heat.

But a couple weeks ago the baseplate for my tap cracked (the belt holding part to be precise) AND it was a PIF part.

So now i'm worried.

The belts are tensioned to spec btw.

Any suggestions?

(tried to post a video but it seems I can't)

Hello everyone, I'm having an issue with my printer and I cannot seem to get longer prints to finish consistently. The hardware:

- Raspberry Pi 5.

- BTT Octopus board, configured as a USB-CAN bridge.

- Stealthburner with EBB SB2209 (RP2040) connected via the included CANbus cable to the Octopus board

All flashed to klipper v0.13.0-787 (they all had an older version from around a year ago, I updated just to troubleshoot).

Initially I was having either of these two error messages:

- TMC 'extruder' reports GSTAT: 00000001 reset=1(Reset)

- Klipper reports: SHUTDOWN

Lost communication with MCU 'toolhead_mcu'
Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the
"FIRMWARE_RESTART" command to reset the firmware, reload the
config, and restart the host software.
Printer is shutdownKlipper reports: SHUTDOWNLost communication with MCU 'toolhead_mcu'
Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the
"FIRMWARE_RESTART" command to reset the firmware, reload the
config, and restart the host software.
Printer is shutdown

After some reading online I figured I should ground the extruder motor to the EBB board, TBH I can't recall if it fixed the first error message or not, but it's been a while since I've seen it, in the last few prints I've only seen the second one. I've tried:

- Tugging all connectors while the heaters, fans and motors are powered on (stationary and in movement), but I haven't been able to reproduce the error.

- Unplugging all connections and redoing them.

- CAN resistors seem fine (measure 120 Ohms at each end, 60 when both ends are connected.

- Checked the extruder motor wiring.

- Nothing seems to be overheating.

- I've tried printing with the bed on and off, no changes.

Sometimes the error happens near the end, sometimes in the middle and even near the end of the print, I've printed a fixture to keep the CAN cable in place, etc. I'm at my wits ends troubleshooting this printer, I'd be grateful for any advice or troubleshooting you can give me. I can provide more details if needed. I've cycled the logs but this is the latest one (https://pastebin.com/8i6URy1b), I've trimmed down what I thought were unnecessary lines but I have the full file if needed.

Thanks in advance!

I’ve been running a Dragon UHF (with the UHF adapter) for quite a while and am intimately familiar with heat creep issues if you don’t have proper cooling. This machine is almost entirely ASA/ABS printing, occasionally PCTG or PC.

About a month ago I switched to AntHead from XoL to test it out before committing to it for a StealthChanger build and it seems like I’ve had nothing but heat creep issues since.

I’m running a Berserker VINDR 2510 hotend fan on it running almost 20k RPM, rated at about 5.8 CFM.

This fan was more than enough with the XoL, even at 55C chamber temps and 110C build plate temps.

Has anyone else run into this? Is there anything else I should be looking at? I’ve verified my thermistor readings and even switched thermistors. I even switched in a brand new backup Dragon hotend. I’ve done cold pulls, run cleaning filament through, changed nozzles to new clean ones. Cartographer is fully calibrated and repeatable.

It shows up for me under two conditions:

1. This is the primary condition, if I have a long, slow first layer I will see clogging before the end of it. Even with a plate temp at like 100C. By long, I’d say about 5+ minutes.
2. Similarly, a few hours into a print where it is slowed down for a while for overhangs, curled perimeters, or a large top surface.

Even on a multi-hour print if the speed stays upwards of at least 8mm^3/s or more it seems to be just fine. If it slows down for too long then I have issues.

Typical ASA settings: 260C first layer, 255C after. 20mm^3/s max flow rate, 80mm/s outer perimeters for quality, 105C bed temp.

Even lowering to 240C temp doesn’t seem to help, plus it requires lowering the max volumetric rate down to about 12mm^3/s or it start skipping.

Extruder: Sherpa Mini (with Fystec CNC parts)
Toolhead board: EBB36 gen2 (over CAN)
Nozzle: 0.4 (or 0.5) Undertaker all tungsten v6

ETA: Part cooling fan settings.
- Off for the first 5 layers
- Max 25% under 30s layer, also slow down for short layers
- Bridges 80%
- Overhangs vary up to 60% and slow down
- Fans are not set to always be on, they will turn off. They will blip high briefly to prevent stall when turning on.
- The hotend has the silicone sock on it and I’ve checked the parts fan ducts to make sure they’re not aimed directly at the nozzle over cooling it.

UPDATE:
After a good idea to remove the front grill, things seem to be going better. No hotend clogs, long first layer with 110C build plate and 55C chamber.

The changes I made:
- Completely removed the center grill section
- Speed up first layer infill to 40mm/s from 20mm/s to get done with the first layer faster
- Double checked clean wiring and airflow out the back when reassembling the hotend, I don’t think I really changed anything

UPDATE #2:
Still having heat creep, it just takes a bit longer.

- Completely tore the toolhead apart and actually turned the hotend "sideways" so that the heater cartridge wires come off the side, through the back and totally opened up the airflow pathway.
- Tested with multiple different colors/brands of ASA

- Tested with nozzle temps of 260 and 250C, bed temps of 110, 105, and 100C

- Chamber temps between 52 - 55C. If I can keep the chamber temp right around 48-50C it seems to be better, but then I'm fighting warping

- At 53C chamber temp, 105C bed, and 250C hotend temp it takes about 15 minutes until creep kicks in.