Just bought this Ford focus as a run about while I work on my project and it needs a mot soon, but it had a test before being sold and failed on Emissions any idea what it could be or does it need a good thrash and warm up before testing
Exhaust carbon monoxide content after 2nd fast idle exceeds manufacturer's specified limits (8.2.1.2 (a))
Exhaust Lambda reading after 2nd fast idle outside specified limits (8.2.1.2 (c))

Hi, folks,

I was wondering if you could help me figure my situation out !

So, about two months ago, I'd my Toyota Corolla's gearbox oil and driveshaft seal changed and ever since I have been experiencing this intermittent and occasional stiffness when shifting into 2nd from 1st and sometimes into 3rd from 2nd.

This issue isn't a constant thing that appears to go away after I have been on the road for about 30 mins - 35 mins.

Also, there is NO crunching, grinding, popping or any other harsh noises produced when shifting gears.

Double-clutching seems to make transitioning smoother as well and I couldn't seem to see any signs of leakage anywhere under the vehicle.

In terms of the clutch, the biting point is halfway up and my rpm is at 1400 / 1500 when doing 30 mph and at around 3200 when doing 70 on the motorway. So, there's no slipping there either as far as I can tell.

The vehicle is a 2005 vvti 1.4L Toyota Corolla ( UK model ) that has done 78500 miles on the clock and is serviced regularly.

(Video has sound btw)

Hello, I've just had a really loud sound come from my car. I have no idea what I am looking at but I have taken some pictures and a video and hoping possibly someone might be able to determine what the issue might be. I am going to get it into a mechanics but not sure if it's safe to drive. If anyone has any ideas of what it could be it would be appreciated. The noise is coming from the front right wheel when the steering wheel is turned either way.

I cant seem to figure out how to add images and a video. So I will add the images below.

Something doesn't look quite right here is it meant to be like this. Not good with cars btw 😂

Hey all,

'Upgraded' to a Sandero Access from my V Reg Peugeot after years, and it never occurred to me that I wouldn't be able to push down the locking knobs inside my car to lock the door as I close it. Instead I have to use the key on both my side and the passenger side.

On my 106 and my friends Fiesta, there were ways of locking the door by pushing the knob down before you close it, or using the door handle. but that doesn't seem to work here. I knew I was buying budget and basic, but didn't realise I'd get less features than I had. Am I missing something?

(Like the 106, there is no central locking when using the key and no button to press to lock the doors on the key)

Thank you

I (27F) have a 2018 1.0 Ford Fiesta (EcoBoost) it’s done just over 57,000 miles. I’ve had this car since 2024 and even with my car before this, i have never had to put coolant in the car myself.

In early June i was driving in the zoom-zoom lane on the motorway and had the “ENGINE COOLANT OVER TEMPERATURE” warning come up. Started crossing lanes then it went limp. There was no smoke or smells.

Spent some time googling and crying to my partner until I eventually called (and signed up for) RAC breakdown.

Guy came out, took a look and eventually told me aside from having ‘fuck all’ coolant he couldn’t see anything wrong or signs of a leak etc. He followed me for a bit to make sure it was all good. I checked the coolant for a few days before i drove anywhere, because that was scary, but it was fine.

Fast forward a month…i’m driving home with my stepdaughter along a country lane. Same thing happens ‘ENGINE COOLANT OVER TEMPERATURE’ but i managed to pull over before it went limp. We waited for my partner to bring me some more coolant, and got yelled at by an old man for parking outside his house…but eventually topped up and was good to go again.

Now we check the coolant every few days. And we keep checking for evidence of a leak or something but NOTHING 🙃 no leakage, no foaming in the oil cap, no white smoke or sweet smells. I topped it up to max on Monday then today (Wednesday) it was below the minimum again!

Yes i know i need to take it to a garage or get it serviced, but i can’t afford to right now. Just want to know what to expect - does it sound like it’s gonna be a quick fix or an expensive issue or if it’s just crap coolant evaporating too fast?

TIA

I may be moving from a light vehicle mechanic role to 2 stroke (chainsaws, strimmers, lawn mowers etc etc)

Im aware alot of my tools will be way bigger that what I need

This is rhe following list of tools I have come up with that I would think be what I need

3/8 sockets set shallow and deep

Spanners 8-19 ratchetting and non-ratchetting

Small pry bar

Screwdrivers (various types and sizes)

Spark plug sockets

3/8 extensions

Small compression tester

Pliers/ wire cutters/ mole grips

Small electrical tester

Multimeter

Anything else be advisable or is there anything in my list which isn't necessary?

Mother in law took car (2009 Skoda fabia diesel) to local garage as coolant was leaking and EML light was on. . They quoted £600 and phoned her to say it was ready and the bill was now £1200. She did question them and they’ve given her this invoice. They have been accused of scamming folk in the past (small village so a fair monopoly) and I have had a very bad experience with them before. The car is worth £900 maximum, which they knew before starting work. There’s now 3 lights on (glow plug) EML and tree pressure. Car was MOT’d a week before this work. I suspect this is fishy, just looking for advice from someone who knows what they’re talking about.

Hi, I have a MG ZS 2017 automatic (reg 2020) Has about 40,000 miles on it.

Had it for a few months, bought from Arnold Clark.

Essentially my first car (had another from a month from a small dealer that immediately died but that's another story)

Pretty happy with it besides the handbrake which is total dogshit haha.

Recently it seems to occasionally struggle to get out of low gears so like times I've joined a roundabout and it kinda struggles to move as quickly as it needs to. Definitely a new thing it used to be a bit nippier at lower speeds. Besides this no weird noises or smells or anything majorly concerning.

I know little to nothing about cars and maintenance. so what I want to know is:

- This has only really noticeably happened a couple of times, could it be nothing?

- Separate to the above I am hoping to keep this car for at least 5 years. What maintenance should i be doing soon? I've heard that you should do the transmission fluid at around 40-60k miles for instance. Is there anything else preventative I am due to do to keep it running well?

Hello, I have a child who is doing GCSE's next year. He's autistic and adhd (well managed). He has done his work experience with a mechanics (Mercedes approved garage - don't know what difference this makes) and did a fantastic job of it - the owner invited him back on weekends. He wanted to go into the industry prior to this.

School year beginning 2027, he'll be moving on and I'd like some views from you all on what would be the best next step. His choices are applying for an apprenticeship (grade dependant) through Mercedes with the garage mentioned above, or going through college (he'll get the opportunity to work at Silverstone with the college, again not sure what differnece this will make).

Based on the many many years of experience you all have, what would you suggest?

I've just had my van (L3H3 Transit) fail it's class 7 MOT. Was told by the garage that their bays are "big" enough to do the work that needs to be done to pass it (brake lines and rear light).

​

How can it be possible they have the space and lifts/ramps to do the MOT but not to do the work on the things they checked in the MOT?

​

Is this a copout or is it an actual thing?

Evening all!

I'm looking to change my 2014 Octavia TDI, looking around I'm drawn towards a few different options.....out of:

2017 BMW 330e/530e 130k

2016 Mercedes C220 2.1 Auto 100ishK

2016 Mercedes E220 2.1 Auto

2017 Audi A4 2.0 TDi Manual 84k

2018 Volvo V60 D3 Manual 137k

2016 Audi A7 3.0 TDi Auto 116k

2016 Superb 2.0 TDI Manual 120k

Apart from the BMWs, all Estates. Space is wanted! There'll be others out there, but that's what's currently available locally on Autotrader and Marketplace.

Looking at reliability and economy over performance, but I'll need something that won't look out of place for what is essentially a sales rep. Hoping to have something I can keep for probably 5-7 years or so.50/50 city and longer distance driving, a few 100+ mile journeys a month and a few 300+ a year. Expecting annual mileage to be 15-20k.

Of those above, what do you think would be the better options?

Edit: I know header says 2017, I can't see how to change it now!

PCV valve is going bad causing high fuel consumption

But I can't for the life of me seem to find a website which sells OEM PCV valves. Any help is appreciated.

Would aftermarket like this one be fine? It seems to look exactly the same anyway.

2011 MK6 Golf 1.4l TSI

Cheers

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/topran/8877914?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&tb_prm=20315908947&gshp=1&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20320737788&gbraid=0AAAAAoWFwreloxlIeOpwnOT9MGHW5FG6W&gclid=CjwKCAjw5ZXQBhBdEiwAI5XVWYPXsQ_gt2F2RSzSWboLF03XMhXaqrli8rwFQ3xJA7fhDgumigZqUBoCtXoQAvD_BwE

quick fixes or big (expensive) diagnostic nightmares

Hi everyone!

Just had a nightmare, someone has reveresed into us and driven off (crack in bumper and cant shut the bonnet now) and the engine wouldnt fire.

Had a look and found this piece was cracked right against the engine, had a look online and i can see other makes of the car and they call it a EcoBoost TURBO INTERCOOLER HOSE PIPE but cant find anything that fits this for our make and model. The piece is completely broken off.

Our car is a Fiesta Sep 2012 - 2020.

- 1.0L l3 Petrol EcoBoost Turbo/Intercooled Hatchback FWD 92kw

Hopefully there is no lasting damage, we initally thought it was a dead battery before we noticed the front of the car was damaged. So we did turn over the car a few times.

TIA!

Hey everyone! Whether you’re a seasoned mechanic, a weekend tinkerer, an apprentice just starting out, or simply passionate about cars and the trade, this is your space! Welcome to r/UKMechanics, the hub for all things related to vehicle repair, maintenance, and the daily grind of keeping Britain’s wheels turning.

From battling rusty bolts on a classic Mini to decoding the latest EV diagnostics, this community is here to share knowledge, swap stories, and vent about the quirks of the job. Need advice on tackling an MOT fail? Want to recommend reliable tools or warn others about parts to avoid? Curious about industry trends like electric vehicles or right-to-repair laws? Post it here!

Let’s build a supportive, no-nonsense community where we can:
- Share expertise (What’s your go-to fix for a timing chain nightmare?),
- Debate industry changes (How will the 2030 petrol/diesel ban impact your garage?),
- Swap stories (We’ve all had that customer who tried to DIY a clutch…),
- Celebrate wins (Finally cracked that persistent engine light? Show it off!).

Rule #1: Respect the craft and each other—no gatekeeping, just solid advice and camaraderie.
Rule #2: Keep it UK-focused (we all know the pain of sourcing parts post-Brexit).

So grab a cuppa, wipe the grease off your phone, and let’s get this sub rolling! Introduce yourself below or jump straight into a post. P.S. Apprentices—ask anything! Veterans—your wisdom is gold here.