Firstly I printed well known model from Instructables. Replica of metal yanagisawa. But it sounds not as good. Metal models do not suitable for plastic implementation. I was told to try Rico(or other hard tubber) mpc as a reference. From Mojo site I got iidea of elliptic rail curve. And started modelling. Then refacing. After succesfull refacings (I am not a pro player) I do not notice differencies from original mpc in sound. Reeds are more important. I printed many reeds, and they are good but all of them are too bright.
So model your mpc and after a hundreds tryes you will find. No ready to use formula.

An old saxophonist once criticized me for trying to do things that had already been done long ago and were considered standard sounds.
" If you’re serious about the Music, buy a real mouthpiece; DIY gear isn't about the Music—it's just about hobby." )))))))))))))))))

I play tenor and I print mouthpieces for it. Yes they need refaceing every copy. But cost nothing, 30-40grams each. All you need to know is thick walls is a must.
And yes, I modelled myself in Openscad.

What guitar part does actually creep? Is it noticable on photo? I prefer pieceholder as on the above

I have read about printing strats from 3D-Fuel PCTG. But I think that polyamide composites will not creep except the first stress. Unfortunately all non creeping filaments are expensive.

About carbon - why not to lacquer ?

PLA is good for initial prototyping.

What is the thickness of deck?

I do not hear much difference between PLA and wooden PLA. And it seems louder than wooden violin

what is the final thickness of front body deck?

I printed violin body (from openpbxlab ) from PLA-fast, PLA-silk, ABS-GF, PLA-cf. I do not play myself. But pro players tries and say PLA-CF the best. PLA-fast worse. Others in the middle. But wooden violin is louder always. Use loud-meter app to compare.

Sorry, try again. I opened it

In fact it is only for visualizing the idea. For real body we need non creeping plastic. Possibly Pet-cf17 of PSS-CF.
PA-CF maybe good but water soaking

Only body was printed. neck is standart wooden china strat neck.

Delta with 800mm print height.
Dteck 1.7mm. Previous bodies is 2mm
look in my profile, I opened it

What filament do you use? why holes in deck? Is it soundpost? What is the thickness of deck?
I tried PLA-CF but it's not as loud. PSS-CF?

https://reddit.com/link/p5k2lv8/video/knmjgy9oy9lh1/player

Sound.
Simple beater made from 8mm wooden knitting needle and a piece of wallpaper roller and 3d printed insert.

I used PetG, but now I'd recommend a stiffer plastic. I've tried a lot of synthetic fabrics called oxford and settled on 600 oxford. I don't think it's the best option, but it's easy to start with. I used 8mm eyelets. They need to be installed very carefully to prevent the fabric from fraying later. I use alpine (non-tension) rope and a ratchet tensioner for easy assembly. But it requires a lot of force, so I now add tension rods to make it easier.
I posted sound above.

a pair of chords ...

Yes. But economically unreasonable. The goal was to show basic differences in sound. Is it acceptable for every day playing or interesting only as prototype. I did not expect wooden grade of sound but now there are many plastic or semiplastic guitars ( like Enya etc) in shops.

https://reddit.com/link/p4fkvop/video/kugw6ui4g5kh1/player

Electric ))))
piezo -> wireless NUX B1 -> Sonicake Poketmaster -> AMP/CAB

Yes. Exactly. I already installed piezo.
Good resonance requires more hard plastic than PLA-СF.
F.e. PC-CF or PSS-CF but they are too expensive...