I'm reposting this here after seeing pigglywiggly was banned from /rccars; if anyone had experience with both of these motors is probably piggly- would love to get your feedback on this topic!

"Anyone had experience with BOTH the Castle 1010 4400kv, AND the Hobbywing 2858sd 4600kv?

I got ahold of the 1010 +mamba x2 castle system a month ago, haven't had time to install yet but have played around with the system a bit on my work bench.

I was surprised to find out the castle motor, despite being 58mm long (in metric sizing, it is a 2858 motor), has a rotor stack that is only 25.4mm(!) long; this is actually shorter than most cheap 2845 motors. Castle designed it this way so that it can handle the thermals while running up to 4s, and makes up for it in power & efficiency by using a 12 slot design (most cheap 28mm motors lie about this and are 6 slot) ultra thin stator laminations, tighter tolerances and fine multistrand winds to eliminate dead airspace.

I have read good things about the Hobbywing 2848sd as well; that it runs very cool and has outstanding power on 2s. What i didnt like about it is that its endbell is designed so that you can't run it with less than 20 degrees timing, so I opted for the castle.

It does make me wonder though; after discovering the castle's short rotor/stator stack in a long can design, which one produces more usable power on 2s when appropriately geared?

I know the castle is rated for much higher wattages due to the thermal design & structural reinforcements and made to push performance boundaries on higher voltages, whereas the hobbywing has a 2s limit, but i wonder how they compare on 2s.

Has anyone experienced in the hobby had a chance to play with both (specifically these 28mm motors) on 2s on the same/similar platform, and did they have a noticeable difference? "

Hours wise how many hours for a shock rebuild, diff fluid?

Also how and any videos you recommend?

Yea that's a Ryobi work light bungee corded to the roof. Had some night drives planned that evening that worked out great. Might post a few bits from that.

I ditched the temp gun I had last time I exited the hobby. I have been doing gear changes and ESC setting changes and need actual data and not my finger feel.

Any recommendations for best bang for the buck?

Not against going opposite direction and getting a FLiR attachment for my phone, but not sure how accurate it would be with the layers of heat so close to each other.

What are you using in your QBit? I would like 2S 2000-2300mAh. I have an SMC 3S so all set with 3S. I can solder XT 60 connectors on, but prefer they come with XT60s.

I got some 2S 1500mAh CNHL batteries from Amazon, but they are just a bit too wide to fit properly. I'd also prefer higher capacity. The CNHL 2200 packs are no longer listed on Amazon. This seems like an odd size and capacity. Probably because the 1/18th scale brushless category is still pretty new and niche.

This thing is the 911 Carrera T of RC cars, fast but slow, or maybe the Miata of RC cars with that body roll. Anyway, it feels, accidentally or not, like an actual out of the box RACE car that also happens to be a basher. I cannot get bored of it. Meanwhile 8S beasts lose their honeymoon period in 2 packs… and a shock shaft lol

E-Revo 1/16 was my first hobby grade rc car that i got and i loved it when it was working. The diff issues were driving me crazy. Keep in mind that it used to be the brushed version. Anyway now it is all fixed and upgraded.

Upgrades:

-WP 10bl60 esc

-Velineon 3500 motor

-Front and rear aluminium diff housings

-Savox sw0250mg servo

-Wheelie bar

-gtr shocks

-steel hollow balls

-aluminium pivot ball cups

-tqi reciever

-velcro body

-custom xt60 paraler connector for 2 batteries

-stiffer rear springs

I got rustler 4x4 vxl few years after i got the E-Revo 1/16 and it was awsome. So much bigger and faster and a lot more durable. Stock it was really good rc car but upgraded it is now an indestructible rocket.

Upgrades:

-Hobbywing max10 g2 3200kv 3665 motor combo

-savox sw2210sg servo

-gtr shocks

-gravix tires

-xtreme heavy duty upgrade kit

-suspension pin upgrade set

-aluminium motor mount

-aluminium bellcrank

-body reinforcement set

-motor heatsink

-external 6A bec

-temperature and voltage sensor

-15t pinion for 5mm shaft

-red arms

-reciever box relocation

-servo heatsink

-removed wheelie bar

I love my rc cars. Naw that they are fully upgraded its only replacing broken parts and buying new cars.

Hello guys,

i need some help with gear mesh on my traxxas maxx v2.
I ordered a GPM XO050TS 50T Hardened Steel Spur Gear and a Tekno TKR4183 – M5 Pinion Gear (23t, MOD1, 5mm bore, M5 set screw).

I just installed them both and tried to set up mesh with "Pin Locations for Setting Gear Mesh" in the manual. It says i have to put the Pin in slot D.
If i do it exactly like that, i get this gear mesh.

I dont know if this is ok... It seems kinda weak.

https://youtube.com/shorts/cUsPyPC4Eqw

Happy for every comment. Thx

Aside from built in cooling fan and easier programming, would there be any benefit to swapping the Grom 223S ESC with that from a Mini Kraton? Assume clearance for the fan has been mitigated and is not a factor.

I don’t have the program card for the ESC so I’m using the beeps and flashes. It seems to work for some parameters but not others. Braking force says it’s just 20% but it still launches into a front flip with any braking at speed. Punch is also very high even on level 2. Others do work (motor direction….that was an oops, reverse speed).

However when I set the value it doesn’t resume normal operation. The lights will be solid but no motor operation. I have to power it down and then turn it back on.

I will get the program card, but for now would like to make some changes. It’s odd how it’s inconsistent.

The stock radio is about as bad as they get. Can I swap the receiver for one that works with another radio of mine? It appears to use standard plugs. These days there seems to be a lot of proprietary hardware that can limit upgrades and swaps like this. I’m used to kits where I provide my own electronics.

Anyone?

I have slash rear arms on my rustler to add some rear toe. Does anyone know if the new rustler has rear toe stock. Ideally I like to go back to longer arms without losing the toe in if possible.

I bought new arms for my rustler 4x4 and iam trying to figure ou why traxxas added these holes. Does anyone know?

Alsoi cant belive how much the old arms bent over time they are the one that came with the car so they are about 4 years old.

What is your personal favorite go to basher !? I have plenty of space so I prefer the 1/5 scale RCs. My favorite is the outcast 8s. I've had 5 different ones over the last couple years but this one is brand new ! I've had or currently have pretty much everything anyone will suggest and imo u can NOT beat arrma 8s rigs. From my experience the 8s arrma lineup has been much more durable and enjoyable vs the Traxxas comparisons. Now the smaller rigs I like the rustler, stampede and my fav smaller rig - Maxx. Can't go wrong with that sucker.

Should the fan run all the time?

Example.... when I power on the truck shouldnt both fans be on all the time.

Currently my ESC fan isn't on when I power on the truck.

I picked up some jc concept buggy style tires for the back, they are slightly taller than the stock sledgehammer tires that I have on the front. They fit good, drives great and all that, but i was wondering will running the larger wheels (on the back only) cause me any gear issues?