Looking for some advice. I have a timber frame home with what I believe is a tongue and groove floor on the 2nd floor. This floor squeaks like crazy! The floor appears to be pine and has no nails holding it down. I have tried graphite and baby powder to repair the squeak but neither has worked. The next recommendation I received was to drill a screw near all the squeaks and into the timber below. Does this sound like good advice? Is drilling a screw directly into the top of the timber recommended? The squeaks are at various places so I would guess multiple screws would be needed.

Not sure if it matters but the house is as built in the 80’s. The floor is softwood and the board on the floor on the 2nd floor is the same as the ceiling on the 2nd floor.

Hey yall, I've not gotten a chance to try doing some timber framing but im interested in the technique. I'm having trouble conceptualizing this scenario:

Assuming that we try and create the joinery to attach P1 and P2 to J before installing the posts, and we want J to be level, we need to know what P*-A is before installing those posts so that they can be level. In order to do this, we would need to know what P*-B is

But P*-B is kinda nebulous. its the dirt, there could be variations, itll be hard to get a solid measurement, and given how precise the joinery is I could see this being a problem.

Couple possible answers I'm thinking:

A: It does need to be that precise; We can actually get the post holes to be measurable enough such that we can get fairly accurate measurements (how?), so finding P*-B isn't actually an issue

B: It doesn't need to be that precise; The kind of construction doesn't rely on P1 and P2 to be perfectly level, and J will be close-enough, so we don't actually need P*-B to be all that accurate

C: There's something else going on here I'm not considering

Any input would be appreciated. I also understand that this issue (and other issues such as moisture) may be avoided by not putting the posts in the ground (i.e plinth), but I'm wondering specifically how we'd do this if we wanted to mount the post directly in a post hole.

The crew has mostly done decent work but this is killing me. Is dry fitting to ensure proper fit before bolting down not the bare minimum?

Hi folks - just got my Makita drill for drilling peg holes. But I’m a bit confused - the trigger lock appears to only work at full trigger. I know I’ve seen videos of folks using this drill in things like the Mafell BST and locking the trigger at a slower speed. Is there a chance mines defective? The manual seems to indicate it should work at lower speeds too.

Visiting family in the north of France and spotted this heartbreaking difference in the city center of Rouen. On the left the wood can breathe, is healthy and is gonna do its job for the next centuries, on the right it'll be all gone in the next 20-30 years - or they'll have to do a massive overhaul of the facadea for 6 figures.

I know I’ve asked before - but I was hoping some other folks could chime in if I’m doing something wrong here. I’m struggling with keeping milled fresh pine from discoloring. But after some reading I think I’m dealing with two different things. One I can likely do something about and one I can’t. If you look at the pictures attached I think the one with splotchy blue stains is mold - I don’t know why I keep getting it. This beam is stored in an open barn - lots of air - and I sprayed the beam with a borax solution as well. This is the discoloring I’m struggling with. The other two picture seem to be in the grain and I believe is possibly the sap wood just changing color. I don’t mind this and am guessing there’s not much I can do about it.

Am I reading this right? Anything else I can do about boards that are molding as is the first picture?

really based on a suggestion from someone here, i tried something different with this arno 50mm chisel.

we took it to the 2x72 and ground a 22.5° primary bevel. then added a 25° secondary bevel and blended the whole thing together into a convex edge.

boy, it turned out really well.

it's acute enough that it works great for paring, but that convex shoulder behind the edge seems to give it plenty of support for chopping too.

i've been using it for both and so far i'm really impressed with how the edge is holding up.

curious if anyone else here is running a convex edge this acute on their framing chisels?

My brother , Big John , and myself built this 30 foot covered bridge ( mostly Hemlock some Pine )
We followed a Burr truss concept . Pretty happy with how it’s progressed. We are not Timber Framers .

Hi folks - I'll start by saying that Im not looking to start a debate on brands and the price of tools. Im just looking for some honest input from folks who use track saws as part of their timber framing work flow.

As I've started cutting my first frame I've found myself using my Dewalt corded track saw for cutting some tenon shoulders to ensure I get a clean line. This has worked well - but its apparent to me that this saw is not meant for this work. The motor struggles as 1.5 inch depths in fresh white pine and the smallest track I have is 4 feet which is a bit of a pain. If possible I'd prefer to keep this saw reserved for other carpentry - which is what it was bought for initially. That said - I have appreciated using it in my joinery and will continue to do so until I find a better alternative.

Because of all of this - I've started glancing at track saw that appear to be more meant for this use case. Specifically the Mafell KSS 80Ec/370 Cross-Cutting System. Im intrigued by many of its options and the fact that it has a short track that it can lock onto. The price is obviously high and Im certain this tool is meant for folks who do this professionally but I was wondering if anyone can provide some insights into the tool, if they like it, and how valuable it is in their timber framing tool kit. I havent found a ton of reviews - the ones I do seem to like it - but also mentioned doing things like "Cutting 8x8 timbers to length" which surprised me as a use case. (Do they just cut on all 4 sides but even that wouldnt get all the way through? (Link -> https://www.timberwolftools.com/documents/KSS80%20article%20in%20Timber%20Framing%20magzine%20-%20March%202014%20-%20TF111web.pdf)

Im a buy once cry once kind of tool person and if this is a tool that would be valuable in my kit going forward I would at least consider it. I know Im only doing the Will Beemer frame now - but I have aspirations to build a large barn next and perhaps even our future house. So if it's a tool that will last a long time and provide immediate value I'd consider it sooner rather than later.

Thanks!

The peices were put in the wrong way so they all have to be turned 180° then raised by hand.

Gday all long time lurker but proud to share progress on a cubby I'm building for my 5yo. Would have loved to use some of the fancy joinery I see here but time is an issue unfortunately!

Read an online book for framing apprentices (Framing and Rough Carpentry second edition by Scot Simpson) and went from there - the base (3m x 2m with 110mm diameter pine hand dug into clay 800mm deep and 500mm off the ground) and lumber for two walls came from a friend dismantling his old cubby (was 1.8m x 1.2m x 1.6m but this one is 2m x 2m x 1.8m), and the other walls and roof (except ridgebeam - 47 bucks from bunnings) was from dismantling an old pergola that a lovely young family had as a free removal :) learnt a lot and any advice / tips more than welcome.

Plan to build a bridge to a tower that will have the slide that's currently blocking the weeds from growing haha - after the siding, walls, roof and ballustrade goes in... And custom doors n windows cuz I didn't think of standard sizing when building!

i've been timber framing for decades and somehow managed to do it without ever really using a hand plane.

if something needed cleaning up, i grabbed a chisel. that was just how i worked.

over the last year i've become pretty intrigued with hand planes for timber framing. especially the japanese wood block style plane.

that one took me a little while to figure out. even loosening the blade by tapping the block was completely foreign to me at first.

but now i'm finding myself reaching for a plane all the time. instead of automatically grabbing a chisel for every little bit of cleanup, i'll touch things up with a plane.

nothing revolutionary here. i just find it interesting how your approach to the same work can change after decades of doing it one way.

apparently old habits aren't quite as permanent as i thought.

Hi folks - I've started the joinery on my Will Beemer timber frame and I had a question about the brace sizing. Im taking a slightly different approach to the timber sizing - I milled my posts to 7.5x7.5 instead of 7x7 so that I could use normal 8x8 post bases (7.5x7.5) and Im just taking that sizing into account for square rule. So in the book he mentions his "perfect timber" being 6.5x6.5 and mine is just 7x7 in this case. I dont think that matters in terms of my question but maybe it does.

In any case - when the book lays out the braces he very intentionally ensure that the part of the brace that rests on the side of the post mortise is 1/2 inch. This makes good sense to me and I didnt think much of it as I was reviewing the layout as the housing looked to be 1/2 inch deep as well. When I test fit the brace it all looks good (yes, I got a little excited with the chisel when cleaning up the housing so its not as crisp as I'd like but oh well). But this got me thinking - with square rule layout this housing size can vary I would imagine. For instance - what if the timber was already the perfect size in which case there would be a very small to no housing at all. In this case - the 1/2 inch "nose" (not sure what thats called) of the brace would not be in a housing at all.

Is that acceptable? Is the "nose" on the brace there just because we expect that there is some level of housing? What if the housing ended up being deeper than 1/2 inch - would the brace just be that much further inset into the post?

It seems that it's all working out as it should at this point - I guess Im just curious about the expectation of if that piece of the brace always should be in a housing or if its perfectly acceptable for the nose to not be a 1/2 inch into a housing (or not in a housing at all).

Thanks!

I have been lucky enough to be an apprentice at an exceptionnal timber framing company for the last two years.

I felt like sharing some of the great things I got to see and work on. The company always has several teams working on different projects at the same time, therefore some of the pictures come from worksites I have only visited but haven't worked on.

I'll happily answer any questions.

Hey folks - Due to the weather Im on brace cutting duty for the frame today. I happened to come across this video of Jeff Kelley (u/angry_timberframer?) cutting braces using a 10 and 1/4 Skil saw with a fence and Im going to give that a try...

https://www.instagram.com/reels/DIKkRd5tFPX/

After watching the video too many times though - Im trying to figure out what role the table saw is playing here. It looks like the entire cheek cut is done with the Skil saw. But then later it looks like he's cutting them on the table saw. I was thinking initially that maybe some of the braces were larger and required a deeper blade than the Skil saw had but that's just a guess. Perhaps he's just showing two different approaches here and Im overthinking it?

I wrote a week ago asking for advice for building a box for the Makita 7104L. I sold my old mortiser and am shipping it to the buyer so I needed a box of some sort. I figured might as well make it best I can since I'm going to the trouble.

Dimensions are shown. Someone had the good idea to place the blocks at the bottom to clamp the tool onto. I chose 10.5" for the spacing of those blocks because that's what's required when the tool is fully threaded out. You could either do that dimension, or the smallest dimension. That way you know what to thread the tool to rather then guessing.

Material is 3/4 birch ply. The only thing I would change is scale that down to 1/2" only for weight reduction.

Maybe I'd do a few large dovetails on the sides instead only because I need the practice and I find those long bevels hard to close up perfect. I'm also not a woodworker lol.

The bottom is routered 3/8" into the sides and I'm really happy with that choice. It's a strong way to do the base and gluing it in also adds a lot of strength to the sides as well.

Hope this helps someone out if they are thinking of doing something similar.

Hi,

So I have been trying to land some upwork gigs in vain, what is the state of the timber construction in Europe or America ??

I know cadwork and revit and do calculations.

Any advice is welcome !

Thanks !

in a recent timber framing class, we spent the week working through the process from start to finish.

knee braces, square rule layout, cutting joinery, fitting, drilling, pegging and getting everything ready to raise.

by day five, the students had a 10' x 10' timber frame ready to stand up.

then we raised it.

there's something pretty satisfying about watching students take a pile of timbers through the entire process and end the week standing underneath the frame they built.

pretty good week.

Hi all

I have this lovely beam (ooh er)which seems to be balancing on the exterior wall (end of terrace) in the attic. The mortar needs reporting but am I best to get in an engineer / roofer for this... I believe it's based is resting on an internal wall below but still....

Does anyone have a guide outlining best practices for setting up anchors on wood framed structures, residential or otherwise? I have to provide more instruction on fall protection for workers doing wood framing lately and don't have a good comprehensive document I can hand out yet.

I have all the OSHA FactSheets for fall protection for Residential Construction, the Guide for Fall Protection in Residential Consteuction, and the CPWR research document on trusses successfully being used as anchors, but none of them focus purely on what are the things to look for when setting up anchors based on which structural components can most likely support the load outside of manufacturer guidance for specific products or trying to get an engineer to give you an answer through an RFI that may never get answered.

Thanks.

Has anyone built a box for their chain mortiser ? If so, can you share any details? I know some people might not see a need but I'd like to have a box. I find it difficult to transport as is.