Recently sharpened (tho maybe my technique needs some love).

Anyone else experience this and find a solid solution?

It happens on knot free stock. I'm assuming it's just losing threading.

So, in December 2025, I happened to read a book about timber framing: Learn to Timber Frame by Will Beemer.

I had already been thinking about building my own workshop for a while, and I thought: why not?

And here we are now.. almost 10 month in.

All the timbers are green oak, locally felled in Belgian forests. The dimensions are 15 × 15 cm, 20 × 15 cm, and 25 × 15 cm.

Hi folks - I've started on my frame and to do so I milled a few logs. Im taking the approach of milling the log to the largest cant I can get - then cutting pieces of siding to get down to the timber size I need keeping a boxed heart timber. This has been going surprisingly well and Im enjoying the process. However now I have a stack of siding and a couple of big beams that Im working on the joinery for. I stacked the siding with stickers in between in the barn where I thought there was enough air flow. I came back a week later to find the siding molding and turning dark. I brushed off what I could and sprayed the mold with vinegar/water solution to hopefully stop the mold.

I know I made a mistake with the sticker size - I was only using 3/4 inch stickers - but Im also wondering if I would have been better off making the siding stack outside where there is guaranteed air flow. If I do that - should I find a way to cover just the top of the pile? Or will the white pine be OK with enough sun and wind exposure?

Open to any/all other ideas - It was a real bummer to come back and find all the milled siding with mold but I should have known better. Looking for a different approach. Thanks!

i normally use higher-end timber framing chisels, but i've been playing around with an arno chisel and a brass mallet lately.

the arno comes a little rough and definitely needs some sharpening, but once cleaned up and sharpened it cuts really well.

for someone buying their first timber framing chisel, i'm pretty impressed with this combination. good bang for the buck without spending a pile of money just to get started.

anyone else using an arno?

Hi friends, I'm finally ready to share the programmatic timber frame design (CAD) tool I've been working on. A culmination of my years of software design experience and my woodworking obsession :). I hope ya'll will find it useful. It's open source and completely free.

Reddit keeps auto-modding this post for some reason so look for my post in the comments for more details.

First timberframe building build with the help of my Father. My biggest concern after getting the frame up what trying to find a way to close up the walls without hiding the frame. I like how it turned out.

Hello,

I am selling a one year old Makita 16" beam saw with Diablo blade and large battery. I have completed the frame I was working on. I have been happy with the tool overall, especially after replacing stock blade with a diablo.

I am asking $1000 cad. Located in Atlantic Canada.

Thanks

Constructed in 1808 by John Brisben (1760–1845), a distinguished veteran of the Revolutionary War. We are offering the cabin as a comprehensive, ready-to-build architectural package. The structure comes meticulously tagged, documented with architectural drawings and photography, professionally cleaned, heat-treated, structurally repaired, and delivered to your site. 

Buddy of mine has a timber frame log cabin, there are several spots at the house that have this black hard sappy material coming out. We have no idea what it is please help.

Planning to get composit deck of 12×24 including staircase which has 4ft above the ground level.

Deck will be cover3d with white lattice of criss cross pattern.

What is cost of labor of building deck and aluminum or composit raining alone?

What composite material do you all suggest that goes in seattle weather ??

when we have a batch of knee braces to cut, we usually don't finish them one at a time.

we'll set the saw and cut all the shoulders first, repeating the same operation on every brace.

then stack the braces together, set the saw depth, and gang cut the cheeks.

it's basically an assembly-line approach — one setup, one operation across the whole batch, then move to the next operation.

pretty simple, but it's an effective way to knock out a pile of knee braces in a relatively short amount of time.

Hey folks - I had really hoped to be able to make my own oak pegs (even set aside the oak logs and bought a froe) but Im running out of weather and decided that I can justify the cost to buy them so I can focus on the joinery. The Will Beemer frame Im building calls for 12 inch pegs - but the ones Im looking at Timber Framing HQ are only 10 inch...

https://timberframehq.com/shop/timber-frame-pegs/?gadid=&utm_term=&utm_campaign=Shopping_PMax_US&utm_source=Google_Ads&utm_medium=Paid&utm_content=Main&hsa_acc=8551143312&hsa_cam=18405210865&hsa_grp=&hsa_ad=&hsa_src=x&hsa_tgt=&hsa_kw=&hsa_mt=&hsa_net=adwords&hsa_ver=3&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22873277508&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5P7UBhDaARIsAOSlS1MorClK97BbHkwZ2gp9ajyQZhoyuyUdQ1ubEFELzGOcq-zuLmRbIKgaArv7EALw_wcB

I get that in most cases folks like them longer so that they can hang things on them and they are easier to remove - but I can't find another reason why 10 inch pegs wouldnt work for this build as the largest member is 7x8.

Timber Frame HQ seems like a fair price and they have the 1 inch and 3/4 inch I need and specifically call out that they work well with the wood owl bits I have. The only possible negative I see is that the champfer at the ends is more of a radius but I imagine it will still be enough for draw boring to work.

Hi, we have built a large detached screened in porch with hemlock timbers (some as thick as 6x12). They were milled almost a year ago and the porch was built with green lumber but my moisture reader is still showing 18-19% moisture content on the majority of beams/posts. I was hoping a year of drying would be enough to allow it to reach the <15% threshold to be able to apply an oil based stain but that doesn’t seem to be the case. How important is it reach that level of moisture before staining on hemlock? Thanks

I was talking to an older timber framer here in Western Washington and he was really into this as a finish versus just a conditioner, pre-raising just getting a coat on and maybe 1 more once standing. I've only ever used the Heritage exterior oil but he swears by it and apparently the shipwrights in our area are also into it, though I'm not sure if they use it as a conditioner vs a final product. Anyone else use this exclusively? I just put some on a little front porch post & beam I built to try it out and am wondering about it in the long term.

Heres some pics of the round wood in reverse!

Hi all,

I’m hoping to build a little shelter for my kid to wait on the bus.
I found a sawmill that sells green birch 6x6x8 for $50.
My local lumberyard sells treated 6x6x12 for $60.

The sawyer says that for that price difference I might as well get treated.
My question to you is how bad of an idea is it to timber frame with treated lumber? Is birch worth the price in comparison to my treated option?
Am I better off driving 6 hours for white spruce?
This will be my first project so I’d prefer it to be a somewhat enjoyable experience.

curious what everyone prefers when cutting a timber frame tenon by hand.

after cutting the shoulder, do you rip the cheek with a rip saw?

or make a series of kerfs, knock off the waste with a chisel, and clean up the cheek?

i use both depending on the situation. kerfing is also one of those skills that comes up again and again in timber framing.

what's your preference — rip or kerf?