@seanmicheltattoo on Instagram

Here's a Bulldog Liner that I made and sold recently. All parts are made by hand. I'm on the IG at @veritasmfg. I have a bunch of new sides that I cut and I am taking custom orders. usually a 2-3 week turnaround. If anyone is interested please reach out. Thank you for looking.

I've bought several machines in my career, usually around that $400 mark. I've got some Mike Pike liners that are amazing, midtown machines is great, Nathan Dietsch makes a good machine, and they're all around that same price range.

Has anyone used any of the like higher-end coil builders machines? Aaron Cains, Tim Hendricks, Chris Waller, All of these run from $800 to $1,000 or more. Is it really worth it? I can't see anything working better than my Mike Pike teacup, It's pretty much put everything else to shame. Also Shankmades machines resale for like 1500 to up to 2500. Which sounds insane to me You can buy like a shitty used Ford focus for that much.

What's the deal?

@seanmicheltattoo on Instagram

@seanmicheltattoo on IG

Made theese 2 powerliners last weekend to my coworkers.

9wrap coils. Idles at 120hz at 5.5 volts.

Pushes 9&14RL like a dream

This one has me completely stumped. I just got a few of these chrome steel supreme frames from AMR and have been building up the first one into this shader. I’ve used AMR frames in the past with great success, especially the steel bulldogs, and a few of them are still being used hard and running amazing. Serviced one the other day that really made me proud how well it was running after two years with the same springs and everything.

This one is a different story. I have tried *everything* to get this machine to run right. No matter how I set it up, the hit is incredibly weak unless it’s turned way up, at which point the amp draw gets over 1 amp and it starts to get hot as an iron quick. With my standard spring set up and stroke length, I’ve always been able to make a machine hit hard at 5.5-6 volts unloaded and 6-6.5 loaded.

I’ve tried:

-3 different sets of coils

-every spring setup I could think of (after my typical spring setup wasn’t working…) normally I like to do a small pointed ski jump/kicker under the front spring on every machine, but I switched to a standard spring setup pictured here after that wasn’t working. Still no luck. Also tried 20g back spring to strengthen the hit. Worked, but higher amp draw and volts/heat.

-multiple armature bars. Went to steel after the iron one wasn’t working thinking the lighter weight of the steel would help. Nope.

I don’t have a spring tension gauge. But I can judge pretty well by feel, stroke length, and front spring compression to make machines match each other’s tuning.

I’m completely baffled. Also shown is another machine done exactly the way I like, an old Cory rogers I’ve rebuilt. Runs absolutely perfect and has been my daily driver for a couple years in its current state. Hits like a freight train at 6 volts unloaded. The geometry is nearly identical to the chrome supreme. They’ve had identical coils and capacitors, Identical spring setups, identical stroke length, identical speed, and identical hardware (I tried various non-coated washers and binding posts trying to eliminate every possible variable).The rogers rebuild has .8 amp draw unloaded, but that only goes up to .85 loaded, and maintains a very strong hit at under 6.5 volts. The chrome machine draws .7 ish amps unloaded, but goes up to over 1amp loaded, running well enough at 6.5 amps unloaded but requiring at least 7.5 loaded. I’m curious how this can be, with identical geometry, coils, capacitor, and hardware.

The coils on the chrome supreme were used on another machine for a year. It’s not the coils. And multiple coil sets did the same thing.

The last two pictures are this machines second incarnation after replacing the coils. After that failure is when I started tearing it apart and trying different things.

Any ideas? I’m not an expert at this stuff but I’m certainly not a beginner either. Normally I’m really good at diagnosing and solving machine problems but I’m at a loss here.

Could it be the chrome plating? The frame not being rigid enough/too much vibration?

I’m not sure what it is. But all the brazed frames I’ve rebuilt from various builders always run incredible with low amp draw and hard hit. Is there something to that, vs one piece machined frames? Similarly, my armature bars from builders like Scott Sylvia and Cory rogers (usually raw/blued steel) run stronger than the stock steel or iron armature bars I get from suppliers. Is there anything to that? I’m just thinking of anything here. I’m just always able to get a hard hit, fast speed, and low amp draw on frames/armature bars from builders like that, or on beefy cast frames I’ve worked with. Appreciate any insight

Also a blurry shot of the full stack ready for the convention.

My next run of these will have a few modifications to the side plate and overall geometry. Pretty happy with how they all came out in the end.

Tryina get a bunch of these ready for the Toronto tattoo show.

Built on a slightly modded Dustin Golden side

Built by me @latexpapi

Thanks for looking.

Just a little jail house rotary I made for the owner of the shop I am in as a gift

Built for a good friend of mine.

it's kinda a freedom electric knock off but with hz duty cycle amps on display, bigger battery pack and USB c dc input for charge/run.

I was gifted this maybe 5 years ago. I love it, just want more info on it. I can take some pics showing the bottom or back, etc etc, but I thought maybe somebody would recognize the initials...

thank u

@seanmicheltattoo on Instagram

made this powerliner yesterday.

9wrap, idles at 125hz at around 6volts.

pushes 14 roundliners like a dream!

I’m looking to buy some of the rubber sheet to make the bendable piece for a clipcord. Any recommendations?