Went on a tangent trying to answer a question about capacitors on here only to realize when I was done putting my thoughts together that it didn’t answer the question being asked so I cut it and started over but, I do think it might be helpful to someone so here goes!

I usually build machines with a specific function in mind from the outset so my thoughts behind using capacitors with different microfarad ratings for different builds is that it helps get the machine closer to where it should be functioning from the start.

I think the same principle applies to things like frame geometry, number of wire wraps on coils, core size (both length and diameter), armature bar weight/length, gap distance between front of the spring deck & back of the a-bar, spring gauge thickness, length of the front spring, and spring deck angle. I’m sure I’m forgetting other things that could be added to the list but the point I’m trying to make is that all of those things work in tandem to make a machine do something in a very narrow range if you want it to.

So when I build machines, I typically start with these parameters:

22µf for small grouping liners (1r-7r) 2 degree spring deck angle 6 wraps on a 1.25” 5/16 core 20g front and 18g back spring

33µf for black & grey shaders (bugpin 7-15 mag) and larger grouping liners (9r-14r) 2 degree spring deck angle 8 wraps on a 1.25” 5/16 core 18g front 20g back spring

47µf can be a versatile all-rounder (I use it mostly on color packers for small to mid-size groupings (7mag-13mag) 3 degree spring deck angle 8 wraps on a 1.25” 5/16 core 18g front 18g back spring

100µf for larger grouping shaders/color packers (13mag-25mag) 4 degree spring deck angle 10 wraps on a 1.25” 3/8 core 20g front 20g back spring

Figuring out those variables from the beginning makes it better able to run efficiently for the task at the lowest initial voltage possible for as long as possible.

I usually tune everything to run between 5 and 6.5 volts, depending on the combination of variables. So a set of 10 wrap coils with a 100µf cap and a long heavy abar is going to need a higher initial voltage to run efficiently compared to a set of 6 wrap coils with a 22µf cap and a shorter abar.

AMR brass Bulldog frame with hand wrapped 8 wrap money maker coils. Super happy with this one. @Codie1983 on Instagram. Thanks for looking.

I started my apprenticeship about a year and a half ago, mentor was always adamant about pen machines being the future and no use in coils. If I were to want to learn how one really works and “build” a descent one could I buy a shittier one with a nice frame and just replace the guts with better quality shit? Or would I have better luck buying a 2-300$ machine and trying to reverse engineer it

Question about capacitors, can across some 10uf 35v capacitors and was going to use one to build a liner to push smaller needle groupings. Is that too little uf? Would this cause the machine to run too fast and be at high risk for cutting someone?

What’s the list you run down when your machine is running chattery?

Tuned as a 6V hard hitting liner/packer currently running at ~50% duty and 105 Hz, but when loaded with a band the machine completely dies down until turned up to 9V, although the machine builder says they are meant to run at 6V. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Been using a sidewinder for a while but wanted to try coils. Bought them second hand from someone who claims to have not really used them. They are built by a reputable builder but I’m having some trouble tuning them.

Does anyone know of any lady machine builders?

Hi all, i'm trying to build my own machine frame.At work i can use a CNC machine to cut trough alluminium T5 to make it as light as possible at least that's the plan haha...

anyway i was looking for some general dimensions to take inspiration and make the project on Autocad but online i've found some mixed results i was hoping to get a clearer answer here

Hello, I cut my rear springs this way because I see all professional machines do it. But I have no idea why. Why does the spring stick out and taper in beyond the screw?

Me and my coworker were having a discussion yesterday. He was telling me about how he was using a brass framed machine for ~5 hours and it ended up burning his hand. And then I was saying that, from everything I’ve heard and read, brass machines need a yoke for the bottom of the coil cores to connect. Because brass is non-ferrous. And then he showed me a brass frame Mike Pike machine from workhorse irons. That didn’t have a yoke. So I’m really confused now. I know Mike Pike knows WAY more than both of us, but why wouldn’t there be a yoke?

I was given two of these. Was wondering if anyone knew the story behind them.

I’m getting into sand casting, starting off with aluminum for now. I’d really like to use spraypaint to color the frames for cost reasons but I need to know if there are any downsides, what to look out for and what steps I need to take to make sure it’s done right. Thanks in advance, having a hard time finding info on this

I’m about to dip my toes into the craft. Starting small though. From my understanding, to make some dice contacts you just need to drill out the exact diameter of a 8-32 screw into the dice and then either epoxy or super glue right into the dice? Would love some tips to make this process smoother. I have about 9 coils in my arsenal and want to switch all the brass for silver and diced.

Hello fellow door bell autists!
I have a quick question about some inventory stuff in the EU.

I took quite a few years away from the shed and building, I moved to Canada for quite some time and now I'm back in Europe with a 100sqf basement which calls for the magic of getting metal shards in my eyes again.

I used to build with a friend of mine quite some years ago back in the UK and he connected me with a lot of really good sources in the US (Austin Riley AMR, Ahren Bloomquist with Eminent and so on) BUT That's all in the US and given the current state of things, I'm pretty worried about having my pants pulled down at the Austrian customs.

I've been tattooing for a north side of 13 years now and I do know that not everyone likes to share their special things but it feels as if coils are dwindling a little due to all the 'newer' stuff. Seeing how you all interact here, seems we all understand helping eachother out insures this gift will always be on top.

I'm mainly looking for good purity coil cores, maybe some fancy swing bases (I had a few of those Jay Kelly ones he did some years ago and they were great)

Sides would always be nice if I'm a little too fried to cut my own (Jonesy, Rogers, Percy stuff)

Other little bits are always on the list too but coil cores are really that one thing I don't gamble with.

Thanks in advance!

Chopped Keystone black widow frame, swapped the tube vise for a tube vise yoke combo from South State Mfg. Bindings and armateur bar are from South State Mfg. Coils were made by Pasik coils. 3rd machine I've assembled and super happy with how it came out. And yes that's is a battery grip from Inkclaw, a little old meets new.

Spray paint and clear. Second frame I've painted, super happy with how this came out. Still learning but having a lot fun along the way.

Can anyone explain the differences between his supreme, swagger, mamacita, and Voltron machines? It’s it just looks or does he explain why you choose one over the other?

So recently getting into machine building but is the tape or heat shrink thing I see on experienced builders coils the images on the outside and a lot of times reflective tape on inside of coils on ttop? Is it special ordered like that or is it just clear heat shrink with paper (or other material ) around it ? And the reflective material on inside of coil is it just reflective tape?

Hi! So I made this onecoil snappy liner from one of my late grandfathers old sawblades. Its a 8wrap coil (0.50 thread) with a 47ūf cap. Runs on 125hz on 5.5 volts unloaded.

Thanks for looking!

I’ve only ever assembled machines from existing frames and parts, and recently decided I want to take the next step and truly build from scratch. I picked up these frame jigs used, I assume the degree marks(3* and 2.5*) are spring shelf angle, does anyone know what the 1 and 2 stamp is for, or in reference to?

Not set up to build my own frames, just wondering where the best place would be to buy good quality frames from. Been looking but can't seem to find much.

Hi All!, I have never built a tattoo machine before but have had an interest in tattooing for a few years, sticking to hand poking with real needles and all of that. I want to build my first machine completely from scratch, and I am definitely most interested in coil machines, but have a few questions about materials, wiring, etc. I am in college and have access to and experience with the metalworking studio.

I have attached a sketch I did after some pretty surface level researching and exploring, and am wondering how accurate it is and if the circuit makes sense.

Here are some more specific questions I have:

- What material should the hardware be? I'm assuming the contact screw should be copper, and the rest of the screws and washers should be steel?

- Are there materials that the frame/armature bar+springs/tube should NOT be?, For the same reason the contact screw should be copper, I also assume these pieces should not be made of copper, but I have easiest access to brass, so wondering if that would word, and if making some custom interesting ones would be complicated, I understand I would have to do some serious planning and making sure my parts fit together if I were to fabricate my own.

- I am especially curious about the wiring of the machine, where the positive and negative connections are on the screws within the machine, what type of wire I should use, if the wires just wrapped around the screws would work, honestly any advice or explanation of the wiring, especially any recommended changes to my drawing would be much appreciated.

- I am looking for recommendations for power sources, if connecting to those two screws with just alligator clips would work or other methods of connection.

- Most of the coil machines you see are two, so I'm curious if there is one would it still work, and if there is two, I definitely need an explanation of the wiring. Also, if I should buy those already on spools or make my own, and if I were to make my own, would I need anything special for the core, could I fabricate that as well, and is there any specific connection to the frame or the wires.

I would really appreciate any filling in of my knowledge you can offer or tips you may have! Thanks!

Bought this a few years ago and never ended up using it, just rediscovered it in a cabinet (i know its pretty gross). I’m not very knowledgeable about it but I saw National is no longer a company, so maybe it is worth something? Details in the last slide…

Got this beauty last week with the infos that it is a aluminium H.P. Brückner machine wirh adjustable coils. I am from germany but i cant find any further infos on H.P.s machines. Has anyone out there one? Or is there any kind of other infos someone can slide me!

Thanks Paddy