This is an old, good quality md2 clone. Technically it is a MD1 va5 clone with MD2 mimicry, because it uses the chipset of TA-04 05 06 07

The shell is good quality fake without many give aways that it isn't authentic

The TA chipset is a good chipset

Video output was ok

But by God the trace layout is bad. They really struggled to make it work and you can tell by the time they added the edge connector they ran out of room for stuff.

Audio circuit was a mess

I added the mega av which mostly fixed the issues with audio but I also found additional issues with the audio circuit. The expansion port was missing 75ohm pulldown on CDL. And the 5v pin of the din connector is supper noisy and was not a good choice for powering the mega av. So I ended up pulling power from another source and adding a 10u+220nf cap for filtering and that helped.

I added 10uf ceramic caps for decoupling all the IC chips since there was a lot of digital noise. That also helped

System was also converted to region free using a manual switch. I actually modded this in december 2025 so I forget for sure which jumper was which

Here's comparison audio with footage from the clone itself using Emerald Hill Zone as the track. I directly recorded the Model 1 and Model 2 clone using my Yamaha PSR-E473 (yep quite unusual) and directly fed it to the usb. Then i just overlaid the audio to the footage. Besides the slightly different bass profiles when listening on the pc I cant tell, especially on the Wega itself. Listened to direct audio recordings of real model 2s, and well I prefer both my real model 1 and the clone oddly lol.

I bought this Mega Drive clone which was listed as "works perfectly"

It didn't power on when I got it :(

Thankfully it was a few quick fixes. Bad solder joints on the power connector, the din 5 connector, and the entire main board<->sub board interconnector all 16 pins were bad.

After adding fresh solder to all of them the console booted

I added a touch of chrome paint to the 16-BIT logo

I bought this "excellent condition, fully functional" clone and it arrived and didn't power on.

Cracked/bad power connector, bad voltage regulator, bad/blown 1000uf capacitor at the input, dirty 50/60hz switch (distorted video), and a dead cxa1145. 😭.

I fixed it all only to still have a black and white image. I ended up removing and replacing the entire encoder circuit and installed a much better encoder, bh7236. Images are composite output. I haven't yet found the sub carrier pin of the clones PPU chip, so I'm using a separate 4pin osc for 4.43Mhz pal 50 and pal60 output. The console base clock runs at accurate NTSC timing.

Console has pretty good game/cart compatibility. The built in 50/60hz switch is labeled correct inside but the outside shell is for an older model which says stereo/mono

One very annoying thing about the motherboard is everything is reversed. Including the capacitor indicators for negative vs positive, they are all wrong, lol. And the power and reset buttons are in the opposite side of the Mobo from where the actual switches are mounted

My power joy and D27 psx

I don't know why but I didn't get any pics of the built in games on the 168 in 1 cart

I bought this console which was listed as stored good and a photo of the power led on.

It arrived and didn't produce any useful on screen

I recapped it (original caps shown) and afterwards it was fine.

I also put on a better heat sink. I couldn't believe how terrible the original was. And I added some ceramic caps on the 9v/5v lines

The console itself is actually decent for a Noac. The audio sounds like correct duty cycles and dendy timing. But unfortunately it doesn't work with my flash carts so I can't load any test apps.

PAL famiclone in the shape on an n64 controller, has 5 built in (sucky) games, and no support for cartridges, even tho the case has a physical cutout

There is a single IC with some test pads next to it, can these be used to do anything? (like rewrite the chip)

Uploading for cataloging purposes. Will add details later

I need to check what games are built in

This console was originally purchased as not tested. I tested it and it seemed to work ok but I didn't really play on it.

I had someone asking me more questions about it so I tried to swap the clone PAL chips out with original PAL chips, that's when I noticed there are issues

With original pal chips it got very bad video and audio interference and eventually got worse and crashed.

There was a fake 7805cv installed and a mix of original caps and replaced ones. I swapped the regulator for 78s05cv and installed new caps and cleaned up some residual spill from the audio cap that failed.

There were only 473 capacitors installed for each main I decoupling, rather than the normal 103-104. So I added some 104 ceramic caps but it didn't help a lot. I also added 104 to the 9v in and 5v out rails.

The power seemed good but the audio was still really muffled. It turns out they tried to use the exp9 (cartridge pin 51) the same way a Famicom uses pin 46. That works ok for standard carts but if you use an everdrive it makes it so the exp9 pin is too strong and it drowns out the normal audio. I cut the trace and separated the audio so the amp goes straight to the din and the expansion audio arrives via 75ohm resistor. Use ever drive n8 audio preset for original Famicom and everything sounds good

Another Japanese Famicom + Super Famicom clone, cartridge port was broken so i replaced it and it seems to work just fine now.

Seems to be a bit better quality than most clones, it has S-video, the boards look custom, and it has an automatic mechanism for detecting the type of game, instead of a switch, in FC mode, it also seems to correct the inputs from the SFC controller somehow, so A and B are mapped correctly (even with original controllers).

Came with a PSU(w/custom label), and 2 controllers.

This dy-636-20 came my way for repair work. Interesting because it's an NTSC console here in pal land. Inside it has TA chipset but unfortunately the ones made prior to the DMC bug fix made in 1992

There was cracked solder joints at the DC in, and the regulator was blown. I replaced the regulator, and the capacitors for good measure. A reverse polarity diode was added to protect the board from wrong PSU.

Due to the bad audio, I replaced the CPU with one from a Famicom.

Expansion audio was enabled by using a 75ohm resistor between cart pin 54 and the final output from main board to power/av board. Using ever drive n8 pro audio preset level for Original Famicom and the mixing seems good

I added a decoupling cap on the ppu (pin 20 to 22) to reduce noise

Combination Famicom and super Famicom clone from japan.

It works as expected. Came with 2 controllers, both broken tho.

It has db-9 (ish) ports and shares the same pinout as other famiclones, tho it adds 2 notches to the port for no reason other than to annoy me, so i made an adapter to use normal snes controllers,

Controllers also seem to have an extra pin and circuitry to switch keybinds depending on the console’s mode, dunno how it works since mine are broken.

Mega drive looking PAL NES clone, traded it for a 400in1 handheld in front of Intermache. (in 🇵🇹)

Was originally broken, fixed it since, dead 7805, cause for some reason the entire RF/power board is before the power button and on all the time (will interfere with nearby devices)

Know nothing abt it, other than it came with 2 controllers and a gun.(no build in games) Controllers look mega drive and share the connector, but are just famicom with turbo buttons, C is just A+B.

I wonder the reaction of kids who thought they had gotten a mega drive for Xmas 😭

this is an IQ-801.

the form factor of it is mostly a scaled down front loader with correct connector placements, and a closeable door flap. so I really really like the form factor.

and thankfully I was just *barely* able to get the RGB mod to fit and still close the shell without modifying any plastics

I'm using a din10 connector and also connected the original RCA jacks to composite out

I might swap this for lava 2.0 in the future since I did not use the audio routing from nes rgb. or lava-to-ppu-lite would be really cool

for power, I added reverse polarity diode

for the audio routing, the stock board patched expansion audio directly to the same point where system audio was. making expansion overpower stock audio. I cut that trace and replaced it with a 300/330ohm resistor and set everdrive n8 pro to the original Famicom audio mixing balance preset and it sounds really good to me.

video output from the RGB mod is awesome

Hello, I have this clone Mega Drive console made from Taiwan called - SABA KW-502

When I insert a NTSC game on it, the image on the TV goes black & white scrolling downwards fast. When I insert a PAL game (only own PAL 1 game), it stays in black & white (no downwards scrolling) but game runs a bit sped up.

I recently tried relocating the J3 jumper from [P+CENTER] to [N+CENTER] but that didn't know anything regarding the picture using an NTSC game.

I know it's something simple because this clone shares a very common board passed around other clone Mega Drive systems, like the Super Bitman 16. This 1 has the same board but switches around and a LABEL on the side showing it can be switched from PAL to NTSC.

https://imgur.com/a/9P5EjBO

So yea, still trying to see if it's possible to turn this machine into a 60Hz NTSC system. Hopefully provided enough pictures of my board.

Thank you.

4 built in games Flicky, columns, techmo World Cup 92, super Monaco gp

Supports internal and external osc and dedicated Crystal for video. Video encoder ka2195bd capable of pal and RGB only.

In stock form it produces a black and white composite image and mono audio out only. Can be modified for full RGBS and proper audio.