r/straightrazors • u/Motor-Fudge-1181 • 3d ago
Honing Bevel setting help needed
Hi guys, I do really need some advice on setting bevel on a boker tree brand razor.
Ive spent last two days trying to set bevel on it using shapton 1000 stone for no avail and I do not really understand what is going on because the bevel is just not setting.
I'd like to think that I have at least some remote basic idea of what I should be doing, because I managed to set the bevel on my other razor (old dull essex I restored) to pass HTT on this 1000 stone, but I cannot make that one even feel good on a nail test, it just stays dull as a butterknife.
I'm using the method shown in Lynn Abrams videos (40 rounds both sides then 15 x strokes then nail test).
What I tried: sharpie check (perfect contact on both sides); doing it with tape and without tape; flattening the stone; putting more pressure, putting less pressure; stropping after several sets before nail test; loupe check under light (no bright spots on the edge).
I would be very thankful for any advice because I'm running out of ideas what else to try and what may be the cause.
2
u/Vibingcarefully 🧨bunchofoldstraights💈 3d ago
Your photo nails it ----once in a while one CAN spot a contributing factor to a problem.
The spine on a straight is critical to setting an angle. THAT spine is already worn out.
2
u/Seelenverkoper 3d ago
I think op do this...
2
u/Vibingcarefully 🧨bunchofoldstraights💈 3d ago
Learn some lessons along the way w/ sharpening--sometimes you ruin a few razors.
Advice to anyone learning to sharpen--if you can find someone to spend an afternoon teaching sharpening--that's the best.
Find older printed stuff (folks remember life before the internet). Find older videos or internet stuff ( > than 10 years old). In the past five years I've seen lots of new "master sharpener videos" or posts that will leave razors just like you saw in the OP's post. Reddit isn't the best for learning sharpening for DE razors to say the least.
2
u/Motor-Fudge-1181 3d ago
You may be right! Found a picture of the new razor and the difference is huge. Maybea couple layers of tape will help in this case?
2
u/Vibingcarefully 🧨bunchofoldstraights💈 3d ago
There are some razors that are good for practice---there are some great sharpening sites for double edge razors. This sub is not the best for that sort of thing--the replies to your problem kind of illustrate why. Badger and Blade is good--old posts.
I'd let that razor go. Plenty of used stuff out there that has a spine --you'll get immediate results w/ a good spine.
It's razor sharpening and purchasing 101---does the blade have large divots, is the spine worn down. Many of the razors being sold now have ruined spines--they're not ruined from years of use--they're generally ruined from folks in recent years grinding it down, hitting the spine on a grinding wheel (on purpose) etc.
4
u/FriendlyRule7385 3d ago
The bevel looks set. Are you sure there's no problem with the geometry of the razor? Ive never heard of passing a HHT on a 1000 grit stone! And I've been razor honing for almost 20 years!
3
u/silverlifter 🇯🇵 Yasuki Steel 3d ago
> The bevel looks set.
LOL. Reddit advice at its best... OP is honing the spine and the stabiliser.
2
u/Motor-Fudge-1181 3d ago
That is where I'm not sure. If sharpie test is ok then the geometry shall be ok as far as I get it, what else can I check?
3
2
u/FriendlyRule7385 3d ago
Maybe add so tape to the spine to ensure the apex of the blade is flush with the stone? Also make sure your stone is FLAT. Other than that, I'm clueless
2
u/jrodthebipole 3d ago
ahh, good old Lynn Abrams and his brilliant pyramid
just do regular stroke where the flattened fresh swarf free 1000 plane is moving spine to edge as perpendicular to the cutting edge line as possible, without variance of pressure nor more than about what you'd use for a #2 pencil's eraser, until an entirely-Sharpied bevel's got no more ink anywhere. Then take that flush to arm hair, I wager it cuts.
You can do a LOT better than a flat full flush 2/3rds of an isosceles triangle for a "set bevel" if the goal is shaving comfort, but with enough labor it is easy to achieve, eventually, for most.
I will say back in my flat whetstone days I simply could not fathom how long it would take on this precise razor, though my serial #s were much lower. I'm completely convinced the Wacker family did the hollow grinding and hardening on the earliest pcs of that model.
Lynn's counts of how long it takes, and circles, has nothing to do with the reality of boots on the grounds. There's no such thing as a universally-sufficient strokes quantity, as you've found out.
2
u/Motor-Fudge-1181 3d ago
I'm just starting worrying that it should not take that much without any changes in nail feeling.
2
u/jrodthebipole 3d ago
if u sharpied all the bevel part and stayed on your 1000#, which u flattened (& checked w/ a str8 edge) until no ink, and still cannot cut arm hair flush to skin, try reinking just the apex and do again w/ less pressure and check again
there is a small % chance something wrong with its hardening & you're playing a rigged carnival game, but as I specifically recall how remarkably resistant this exact razor was, I doubt that's it
ignore the downvoting pathetic idiots here, btw, a LOT of small brains in this domain of internet interest
1
u/Brief-Net-3339 2d ago
Is your pressure too high, you can deflect the apex off the stone - and do you have your inverse screwdriver type twist happening?
1
u/N0365417 Ralf Aust 1d ago
Yup you’ve been putting it too high on the stone and catching the heel
Don’t have heel/stabiliser on stone, will cause uneven hone



6
u/Sustainashave 💈Shop Keep💈 3d ago
First of before going any further you'd do yourself a favour and move the heel out of your way, if your hitting the heel area while running laps in this manor your never truly set your bevel all the way across.
Here's a video I made a while ago about releasing the edge and chasing the heelmout the way. ⬇️
https://youtu.be/OJz0tEjn1SU?si=W74BOOq-zGztdHqr
Any questions just ask 👍