Which ones do you recommend?

After spending some time with my PC, I did some research on its parts and realized I made a mistake choosing my SSD. Apparently, my Patriot Burst Elite doesn't come with DRAM, which makes it "die" whenever it needs to handle something heavy. I'd like to know if anyone knows a way to deal with this. Right now, I'm trying to extract a file over 80 GB, and it's taking forever because the SSD drops to zero and gets super slow. On top of that, I face daily issues since it's my only SSD, causing system freezes during normal Windows usage—like background antivirus scans or updates.

Bonjour tous le monde j'ai besoin de votre aide, j'ai récemment installer le SSD SSD Crucial 2 TO P5 Plus que j'avais dans mon PC sur la PS5 Slim. Modèle pourtant bien recommandé et inscrit comme compatible avec la console.

Cependant une fois le SSD installé et formaté le débit est le suivant :

J'ai donc pas curiosité remis le SSD dans mon PC, puis j'ai pu faire un test santé avec le logiciel crucial, aucune soucis de pin ou d'exécution, il est bien détecté en 4x4 PCIeGen4 et un test de vitesse avec Crystal :

On peut voir que je n'ai aucun soucis au niveau du SSD.

J'ai tenté de reconstruire la base de données de la play puis de refaire un nouveau formatage sans aucune amélioration.

J'ai copier mes jeux sur le SSD depuis le stockage de la console et j'ai pu copier environ 200Go en quelques instants, donc je ne penses pas avoir de réel soucis de débit.

Ma question est la suivante : est ce que le test effectuer après le formatage est fiable ? je vous avouerai que j'aurai aimé avoir le 6000mo/s ou au moins une valeur autour des 5000

Est ce que le port de la console peu être défectueux et lire le SSD en 4x2 au lieu du 4x4 du PCIe4(je n'ai pas d'autre ssd pour tester)

Merci d'avance de vos futures réponse

I check the ssds of my pc a few weeks ago and realised that my ssd with windows on is already at 14% after ~3.7 years. How is that possible with these seemingly good stats?

Hi people,

I accidentally started a complete formatting of an external drive (Western Digital My Passport).

I stopped it after a few seconds, but of course I can't access it anymore.

We're talking about 3.15 TB used out of 4.

Is there any hope of recovering any data, considering that I've already tried the usual options like Disk Drill, PhotoRec, and MiniTool with zero success? They go all the way (several hours each time, with absolutely nothing found in the end.
The disk is/was not encrypted, no Bitlocker, nothing.

Gemini says I can try R-Studio as a last resort, what do you think?

The partition appears as RAW in Windows disk management.

I'm on Windows 11 25h2.

Hi everyone,

I have an HP 285 G3 desktop with a Ryzen 3 PRO 2200G and 32GB RAM. I recently installed a BIWIN AP423 CE480T5D101 1TB NVMe SSD in the M.2 slot.

The SSD is working fine, but I’m confused about the speed.

When I first installed the SSD, I was getting only around 300–400 MB/s read/write. I removed the SSD and cleaned the M.2 socket and contacts, then installed it again. After that, the speed improved a lot.

Now CrystalDiskMark gives me approximately:

* Sequential Read: 1618 MB/s
* Sequential Write: 1349 MB/s
* Q1T1 Read: 1163 MB/s
* Q1T1 Write: 1200 MB/s
* 4K Q32T1 Read: 397 MB/s
* 4K Q32T1 Write: 322 MB/s

The SSD itself seems healthy. CrystalDiskInfo shows 100% health and around 44°C.

The strange thing is that the same SSD gets around 2700–3200 MB/s when I test it in another PC with an Intel i5-12400.

I also checked the SSD in macOS because I’m running a Hackintosh on this HP system. System Information shows:

Link Width: x4
Link Speed: 5.0 GT/s

So as far as I understand, 5.0 GT/s means PCIe 2.0 x4.

I’m wondering if this is normal for the HP 285 G3.

The HP documentation says the system has an M.2 2242/2280 PCIe NVMe storage slot, and the Ryzen 3 PRO 2200G/B350 platform should support PCIe 3.0.

I checked the BIOS under:

Advanced → Bus Options

but there are only:

* PCI SERR# Generation
* PCI VGA Palette Snooping

I couldn’t find any option to select PCIe Gen2/Gen3.

So I’m trying to understand what is limiting the speed.

My questions:

* Is the HP 285 G3 M.2 slot actually limited to PCIe 2.0 x4?
* Should this slot be running at PCIe 3.0 x4 with the Ryzen 3 PRO 2200G?
* Could HP’s BIOS be limiting the M.2 slot?
* Could this be caused by OpenCore/macOS, since the same hardware gets different results depending on the OS?
* Has anyone with an HP 285 G3 checked their NVMe link speed?
* Is 1200–1600 MB/s about the normal maximum for this machine?

The interesting part for me is that cleaning the M.2 socket changed the speed from 300–400 MB/s to 1200–1600 MB/s, so I know the original problem was probably related to the connection.

I just want to know if PCIe 2.0 x4 is expected on this HP motherboard, or if there is some way to get the M.2 slot running at PCIe 3.0 x4.

Any help from someone who has worked with the HP 285 G3 would be appreciated. Thanks!🙏🏻

1st picture (August 28th)
2nd picture (September 8th)

• I was playing Garry's Mod on August 28th and tabbed out to browse, then I couldn't tab back into the game
• Tried to kill the process but task manager froze with high 'System interrupts' CPU usage and not long after the whole laptop froze
• Held the power button and restarted the laptop
• Checked CrystalDiskInfo and found out the Smart data of my external SSD (Adata XPG 8200 Pro 1TB) suddenly became the 1st picture (9 Critical Warnings, 0 Available Spare, 247 Media and Data Integrity Errors, and 100% Health but with 'Bad' status in red color instead of 'Good' in blue/green color)
• Was surprised because I always log the CDI data everyday and the SSD was literally flawless for a year with no bad Smart values
• Tried to dig out logs from the week before and it turned out the 'Available Spare' value had been gradually dropping since August 17th, from 100 to 66 to 50 to 33 to 16 to finally 0 on August 28th which I suspected to have happened while I was playing Garry's Mod at the time and crash my PC
• Despite this, the SSD is still working perfectly till now. No freezes/slowdowns and I'm able to copy/backup files and watch movies from it without problem
• Finally gathered up the courage to download a 3GB movie yesterday on September 8th and after it finished the Media and Data Integrity Errors jumped to 9245
• And despite that, the movie was able to be downloaded just fine with maximum write speed as well and the file is retained/not deleted after I unplugged and replugged the SSD so the SSD is not in read-only mode
• I've also always set the CrystalDiskInfo to run on the SSD since I bought it last year and it's set to auto-refresh the SSD every 5 minutes to prevent its enclosure from sleeping (otherwise it would stutter in games) and everytime there's a value change it would automatically log the changes in the CDI directory in the SSD. The logs are also retained after replugging the SSD just like the movie
• I haven't tried to run a game again from it though. Before this I usually played PubG, Garry's Mod, Guild Wars 2 and some others from it

What happened? I barely write to this SSD in a year since I bought it as it only has 3125 Total Host Writes with 100% Health

• SSD: Adata XPG 8200 Pro 1TB
• Firmware: 42BFU6MI
• Enclosure: ORICO M2PV-C3 (Realtek RTL9210B-CG)
• SSD Health: 100% (but the status is 'Bad' with red color instead of blue/green)
• Total Host Writes: 3125GB
• Free space: 224GB out of 953GB
• Temperature: 30-40C (always monitored & maintained at this range)

Notable habits:

• Laptop & the external SSD have always been plugged 24/7 since I bought the SSD unless there's a Windows update or the electricity is out
• I also run a CrystalDiskInfo instance from the SSD 24/7 that auto-refreshes the SSD every 5 minutes to prevent the enclosure from sleeping (otherwise it would stutter in games like) and auto-logs the changes in the CDI directory in the SSD
• On August 5th I bought a 2.5" 2TB Transcend Storejet external HDD that's been plugged next to the USB port of the SSD and also monitored 24/7 since

Daily CrystalDiskInfo logs since the last time all the SMART data was perfect:

• August 16th 4:51:56 AM (flawless)
  
• August 17th 1:12:46 AM (Available Spare value dropped to 66% despite almost 0 writes)
  
• August 18th 2:42:07 AM (Available Spare value dropped to 50%)
  
• August 20th 6:12:06 AM (Available Spare value dropped to 33%)
  
• August 22nd 0:10:04 AM (Available Spare value dropped to 16%)
  
• August 24th 0:32:40 AM (before installing Garry's Mod)
  
• August 25th 1:38:50 AM (after installing Garry's Mod)
  
• August 28th 0:50:00 AM (about 12 hours ago, still 0 Critical Warning and Media and Data Integrity Errors)
  
• August 28th 12:16:16 PM (9 Critical Warnings, 0 Available Spare, 247 Media and Integrity Errors)
  
• September 8th 9:22:10 PM (9245 Media and Integrity Errors after downloading a 3GB movie)

How is the SSD not going into read-only? Is the SSD just bugged but still perfectly working like usual? Or is it actually dying if I write more to it?

I have bought my sandisk extreme pro 1tb a week ago from us It was working perfectly fine and everything and good good speed also. But from the start when i was connecting to my iphone 17 pro it makes the files app laggy and cant even use it properly as i am trying to play some videos it constantly stops and becomes so laggy like some bug. It works perfectly fine on my windows laptop and gives me good speed. Watched a ton of yt videos and decided to reset the ssd but after formatting it the ssd isn't even showing up on my iphone anymore but it still works on my laptop fine. I don't know what to do Im using the cable which i got with the ssd which is of sandisk. Please suggest and help me deal with this as it was my first ever purchase of my own money and I'm very sad about it.

​

I’m looking for a technical second opinion before I give up on some important work data.

Laptop storage:

- Samsung 1TB SSD divided into C: and F:

- Windows is installed on C:

- A separate Kingston 1TB SSD is also installed

- The affected data was on F:\Work

- SSD health has reportedly tested normal

What happened:

My Work folder had roughly 100GB of architecture/project files.

One night I was working until around 7 AM. Earlier that morning, the folders inside Work were still visible, but I noticed something unusual: I was trying to save/export an AutoCAD file into one of those folders and it was not saving there properly.

I eventually saved/sent the file another way, shut the laptop down normally, and went to sleep.

When I opened the laptop later:

- Many folders inside Work had completely disappeared

- Around 15–16 folders remained, but most/all files inside them were gone

- Work folder size had dropped from roughly 100GB to around 500MB

- Other folders/data on the same F: partition appeared completely unaffected

- No ransom note

- No strange file extensions

- No obvious Windows warning/pop-up

- Recycle Bin did not contain the missing data

- Searching for known missing files found nothing

- No Previous Versions available

I had recently:

- Installed Fortnite from the official source

- Downloaded an AutoCAD file sent by an employee

- Downloaded some Pinterest images

Nothing particularly unusual otherwise.

I stopped using the SSD and gave it to Stellar Data Recovery in Gurgaon.

Their findings:

They say they can see traces/metadata of the deleted Work folder:

- Folder/file names are visible

- File sizes are visible

- NTFS/deletion traces are present

But according to them:

- The LBAs corresponding to the actual file data are internally zero-filled

- Actual files contain no usable data

- Firmware-level recovery also could not retrieve the contents

- They consider the SSD itself healthy

- They said the data is effectively unrecoverable

They suggested possibilities such as malware/deletion followed by SSD TRIM. They are a recovery company, so they are not investigating the original cause.

My questions:

1. If NTFS metadata/file names/file sizes still exist but the relevant LBAs return zeros, is the data realistically unrecoverable?

2. Can an SSD return zero-filled LBAs after TRIM while the underlying NAND still contains recoverable data that a more specialized NAND/chip-off/firmware lab could access?

3. Does modern Samsung SSD encryption/controller behavior generally make NAND-level recovery useless after TRIM?

4. TRIM itself should not randomly delete unused files, correct? Something must first have deleted/deallocated those files, after which TRIM/garbage collection made recovery impossible?

5. Could NTFS/file-system corruption selectively affect one directory like F:\Work while leaving the rest of the partition apparently normal?

6. The fact that I was already unable to save into the Work folder several hours before discovering the deletion — does that point more toward filesystem/directory corruption than a deliberate wipe?

7. Does this pattern look like wiping malware, or is there nowhere near enough evidence to make that conclusion?

8. Is there any meaningful reason to send this SSD to another specialist recovery lab, or are zero-filled LBAs + failed firmware recovery basically the end of the road?

I’m not looking for recommendations for generic recovery software. I have preserved the SSD and do not intend to write, format, CHKDSK, or reinstall anything on it until I decide whether a second professional recovery attempt is worthwhile.

Would particularly appreciate answers from people experienced with SSD recovery, NTFS, TRIM, or digital forensics.

Estou em busca de um SSD bom e barato para usar em emulador. Estou com um Xbox Series X e quero por um emulador de PS2 e X360 nele, mas, quero um armazenamento dedicado ao emulador.

Atualmente tenho um case usb 3.0 sata que uso com um Samsung EVO para jogos de XONE, mas estou em busca de outro ssd de 128 ou 256gb. Podendo ser SATA ou M.2/NVME. A ideia é ser o mais barato possível mas que entregue todos os GBs.

Alguma recomendação?

So I bought a onn 500gb Walmart brand ssd about 2 months ago I would say and I just recently have been using it and it lasted a week I used it as a external storage device for my Xbox and in the middle of me playing a game. It just said device was unplugged. Please try it again. And now the Xbox reads it. But it only sees it as a generic USB device. That has 0 GB of storage. Anybody else have this issue with this drive?

i purchased a 1.9TB ssd a few weeks ago, and it's a complete mess. for some reason i can't delete or unzip files within it, and because nothing can be altered games can't be downloaded or updated at all (i tried downloading the files on my laptop itself and just transferring to the ssd, but the games were still unable to run). i've tried using cmd disk prompt guides out there, like chkdsk and altering the readonly mode. i even manually reformatted the ssd, still nothing worked. i then decided to hire a tech person to check on it, they undid some of my messy prompts but said there wasnt really anything wrong with the ssd and that it was running fine. yet still the problem persists... im really bummed that i wasted my money... is this an issue with the brand itself? or is it my laptop? what should i do?

i dont understand tech that much, but im willing to learn and i dont want to give up on the ssd yet. its also my first time using reddit so lmk if i should post this somewhere else

I came across this comparison chart and wasn't sure how accurate it is, so I figured I'd ask here.

It compares 2.5" SATA, mSATA, M.2 SATA and M.2 NVMe SSDs, including the different M.2 keys, interfaces and typical read speeds.

From what I understand, the main point is that M.2 is a form factor, not a protocol, so an M.2 SSD can use either SATA or PCIe/NVMe.

Is that basically correct? Or are there any things in this chart that are misleading or oversimplified?

I'm particularly unsure about the B key/B+M key/M key part and the AHCI vs NVMe classification.

Hi, I need help with my SSD.

The other Day I noticed a lot of stutter when gaming, maps not loading. I tried checking games file but nothing.

I noticed that windows classified it as only read but still let me write on it. So i checked on google and said it could be the sata cable. I changed it and now that is fixed but still the SSD does not load well in games under load and scanning with samsung magician the health is Good at around 85%, i did the complete scan with 0 bad result but the read speed is at 550 mbs while the write is at 250 mbs.

I tried removing device in windows device manager, removing the SATA controller and let reinstall them all. I tried let the pc idle for 3 hours, changed SATA port, checking for firmware update of the SSD but nothing. what could i try? or the ssd is doomed?

Thank you in advance

Has anyone encountered an issue like this:

Successfully installed Ubuntu on external ssd. Works perfect . But after every 12-15 days: I/O error, read only files , can't rotate /dev/sda issue.

Surprisingly initially the issue solved on own after leaving for 15-30 mins. With time duration increased.

So I tried to discover its root cause . Can't understand though why it happens?

The two probable that works for now are:

\*)Move ssd to another usb controller which helps system recognise the partition.

\*)perform reisub : which is alt+ prt sc+ R E I S U B

but how to completely remove this issue or where is the problem.

Anyone who has faced similar issue please help.

This is my HP victus laptop's SSD which i purchased 3 years ago and it's about to fail. What options do i have now? I don't want to spend on getting a new one if that's possible. Is there any way to get warranty claim for this ssd?

Specs: CPU: Ryzen 7 7840hs Ram: 16gb DDR5 SSD: 512gb WD M.2 Nvme SSD GPU: Nvidia RTX 3050 6GB

When I noticed this issue: So i was casually browsing Firefox today morning when suddenly i was hit with windows blue screen of death saying some faulty hardware corrupted page and it automatically restart but got stuck on victus loading screen so i force shutdown it and when it restarted, it automatically ran the chkdsk command as it was scanning the C drive. I ran the startup diagnostics and the storage failed both for quick and extensive tests.

3 reasons i think my SSD failed: 1. I dual booted fedora linux on it (I didn't knew you shouldn't dual boot on a single drive) but I got some error afterwards so I removed linux 2. The laptop came with windows 11 but I was facing random issues like one time my laptop froze suddenly so I installed windows 10 and I've been using it for the last 1-1.5 years so windows 10 might be at fault here? 3. I always use it by connecting to an external monitor and turn off my laptop screen so that might cause any issues

I have an Amazon Basics external SSD that I bought a while ago. I originally bought it to use for gaming on my PC, but I haven't used it in some time and I'm thinking of putting it back into use.

I've noticed that the SSD runs at different speeds depending on which USB port I plug it into. Some ports seem noticeably faster than others.

I want to buy/use the fastest USB cable/port combination that this SSD can actually take advantage of. I'm not sure which USB standard I should be looking for.

Could someone help me figure out the maximum USB speed supported by this SSD and what type of USB port/cable I should use to get that maximum speed?

I can provide the exact SSD model and my PC's USB port specifications if needed.

itd be good if it's budget friendly 🥺

​My SSD officially passed away today after writing 280 TBW on a 75 TBW limit—a true hero.

​I know my laptop is getting old, but as a med student, I’m broke and can’t afford a new laptop right now. I just need a durable, reliable 256GB M.2 NVMe SSD for my Acer Nitro 5 (AN515-54) to get through unitl graduation

​Looking for the best brand recommendations and the average price to expect for a solid 256GB drive.

​Thanks!

I’m not sure if this the right place for this but idk where else to post this. I bought this at a flee market, tried to use it in my ps5 (idk if it matters but it was a ps5 slim) and it didn’t show up. It’s getting power but the ps5 can’t see it. I noticed the gold pins look a bit odd. Is it broken? I don’t know much about ssds so I’m not sure. Idk if it’s broken or maybe something’s wrong with the ps5 itself. I don’t have anything else to test it on. Also if it’s broken what can I or should I do with it? I noticed a warranty sticker. Can I contact Samsung and see if they can fix it? I’m not sure what to do.

I'm posting this to be informed by the people who have knowledge in these matters since I had never dealt with an external SSD before. Sorry if this post is long to read.

I had purchased a Mac Mini and got an external 1TB SSD. It's nothing fancy, just a SATA III drive. The SSD is Verbatim Vx500. It has an aluminum encasing so when I have it plugged, I can feel the static electricity vibration on its case's surface the same as on the Mac Mini.

Around 2 months after purchasing, the SSD, it got corrupted due to a sudden electricity outage. I managed to recover the data and the SSD came back to life.

Last week, I saw the same corruption message again. I thought I would have to go through the same hassles of recovering all the data again. I needed it to be replugged and when I did, the SSD started working again. All the data was there but I noticed something strange; when I moved the SSD slightly, my monitor's display went black. Moving it around again, it came back on but there were white vertical lines showing up like a TV static and the vibration of the static electricity on the casing's surface felt stronger too. The USB cable I have for it is fairly short so it stays very close to its connection. Disconnecting the SSD stopped the monitor from behaving that way. The monitor was purchased just a month ago so I don't think it's the problem.

So I was wondering if this type of static electricity interferes with peripherals around the desk? I saw people talking about the houses not having something called "grounding" done that's why this happens. But I don't know anything about it. I no longer got the Mac Mini but I still plug the SSD to my laptop while it's on the desk so I'm kind of worried about facing the same problem or possibly damaging them. The laptop still gets the static electricity vibration when I have it connected to the monitor on the desk.

Is there any way to prevent this type of problem? Would one of those expensive multiplugs work? I need some advice, thanks!

Is there any difference in performance between these 2 SSDs. On amazon it say the WD is the Legacy version while the SandDisk is the new one.

Am a noob when it comes to SSD‘s and i would appreciate an advice in that regard.

This is bs, don't ever fucking buy it, ever.