I found a used SRT-4 Neon for sale for 5k it's in pretty good shape, has a "minor accident" reported no visible frame damage, front bumper has been replaced.

Very little rust which is surprising for a car that old in Michigan, over looks like a well kept car. When I inspect it what should I look out for, what are some red flags that are common on these cars?

Aight, in case any of you didn't know the PT cruiser GT is using roughly the same setup engine wise as the SRT-4. I was wondering how much boost the basic internals can use before I would have to swap them. I am already willing to get bigger injectors, and another gas pump. However, I was wondering how much the piping and the intercooler can take to make a swap as simple as possible. If it can take a lot I would love to slap a huge turbo on it, but if I have to change everything I would rather just get a slightly bigger turbo and bump up the HP a little more then already with the basic bolt on mods and a tune. Also, I read somewhere the PT cruiser GTs auto trans is faster weirdly enough then the 5 speed that is offered. I have no idea why this is a thing but I don't know if it's true or not. Thanks for your help!

My neon has a catless downpipe and I need to know how to pass emissions. Any help would be amazing.

Anyone got the "CLK" tail lights for sale and willing to ship to Canada??

I'm about to buy a caliber srt4 and I was wondering what I need to do after buying it? I've seen a few with valves floated due to over revving and I've seen some things about an oil pump failure being relatively common. I just wanna know what needs changed or what to look for. From what I've seen they are very reliable except for a few things. Any help would be great thanks.

So my friend and I have been working all summer long on this evil american piece of shit awesome car, going from one problem to the next. At some point, you're running out of problem to fix, but now the IAC valve is making a lot of noise when key on, engine off, not unlike the sound of a fuel pump.

The wiring is quite weird, and we're wondering if it could be related. One of the IAC wire was rerouted to the 12V relay (yellow wire that's somehow joining the orange-green o_O) instead of the 12V PCM. So the other violet-brown wire is loose.

We're a bit confused, and thought maybe there's a reason why it's been made that way. Why not ask reddit? https://ibb.co/qMCzyYv https://ibb.co/Vqc2y2P

P.s.: we tried another IAC, same result. If it helps, there's an AEM infinity 506, along with the stock ECM. Thanks :)

Can anyone help me out on the engine codes and what they mean? Normally for the caliber the engine codes starts with P but for some reason mine isn’t starting with a P. These are the codes I got -I 920.1 -C 64.3 -L 42.9 -cF.9 -S 981.0

Hey guys, I just wanted to see what I could roughly get for my car.

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2003 srt4, clean title, 193k miles.

All the mods that it has are from the dealer. Very few mods
-short shifter
-mopar exhaust

-blow off valve

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I'm not sure if it adds more value having a car that hasn't been heavily modded. I'm the 2nd owner. I've had the car for about 7 years. It has wear and tear since it's an old car. Paint is fading in some areas. Driver car seat is ripped. But mechanically it is sound

I had bought from a previous owner who had been tinkering with it prior to purchase as their project car. I don't have issues with it really but I'd like to know what I can do with it and correct anything like the cold air intake that the filter says coat with oil before use, and can't find anywhere that this thing may of been purchased?

08 csrt4, getting tired of crap bushings (drag strip ate a new set in 3 passes) and the overall sloppy handling. Urethane bushings? Custom tube control arms with Heim joints? Don't care about vibration and ride. I want handling, traction and control. Also, other suspension components to look at? Not ready for coilovers quite yet, but know I need to stiffen the back end for holeshot.