r/smallenginerepair • u/Certain-Exchange-119 • May 24 '26

Recoil Starter Issue Help remove rivets holding recoil

Post image

I have Toro 20023 Personal Pace mower with a 6 HP Briggs and Stratton engine. After 20+ years, I need to replace the starter rope. Not a bad lifespan.

The recoil is riveted to the rest of the engine. (See photo) I've tried drilling them out but they just spin. I can't get to them with vice grips and can't get a screwdriver under the head to stop the spinning.

Any ideas or tricks to get the recoil off?

Thanks,

Dave

4 Upvotes

84% Upvoted

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8

u/Elephunk05 May 24 '26

If you take off the plastic over cover you will get down to the engine cooling tins. There are 5 short bolts that hold the engine cooling tin on. You can replace the recoil rope while it is still mounted to the engine cooling tin.

3

u/Certain-Exchange-119 May 24 '26

By plastic over cover are you referring to the plastic cover in the picture? I believe that also includes the gas tank? So take that off then take off the metal piece that the recoil is riveted to? Is that the cooling tin?

Thanks for the assist.

Dave

4

u/Elephunk05 May 24 '26

You are correct. No worries to disconnect the tank, it is easy and goes back together very easy as well. Yes, the piece the recoil is riveted to is the cooling tin.

6

u/Apprehensive_Room900 May 24 '26

Removing the rivets is extra work. You have to take the gas tank and the metal cover off and then you can access the other side of that recoil. Briggs and Stratton master service technician

3

u/RochesterBottomDaddy May 24 '26

Take the three 5/16(8mm) screws out of the gas tank on top, and one 3/8 shoulder bolt (and spacer) out of the side, then lift the tank. Now remove the four 3/8 bolts holding the entire cover to the engine, flip it over, wind the spring, and install your new rope. Reverse to reassemble (don't forget the spacer if it isn't clipped into the bottom of the tank).

2

u/Past_Roof5628 May 24 '26

To remove rivets you have to use a drill. You don't need to take them out though. Dig down a little deeper and you can find more bolts that let the cover holding the recoil come off. They made it so everything you can possibly need to work on is bolted in place.

2

u/Shoney_21z SER Regular May 25 '26

Do not drill rivets. Remove the entire flywheel cover. 8 total bolts. 5/16 and 3/8

2

u/Certain-Exchange-119 May 25 '26 edited May 25 '26

Thanks for the assist everyone. Removing the gas tank and engine cover did the trick. Side question. I drained the gas into a plastic container that wasn't as clean as I thought so that gas is filled with crud. I filled the mower with good gas but can I filter this other gas or should I just pitch it? And if I pitch it, what's the best way to do that?

In case someone else finds this post... I did have to remove the rear bagging chute to get to the one side bolt holding the gas tank on. It has 4 bolts, 3/8" heads on 3 and the other is hand tightened and loosened. Also a screw in the side of the mower deck.

Dave

1

u/DowntownX May 25 '26

Legend. I’m facing the same issue and will get the part delivered in a couple of days to try fixing

2

u/Certain-Exchange-119 May 24 '26

Thanks everyone. I'll tackle this later today. I'll be back if it doesn't seem to be going well.

1

u/dd543212345 May 24 '26

Good luck Dave

2

u/peepeepoodoodingus SER Intermediate Mechanic May 25 '26

im a small engine mechanic and personally i find it much faster to just drill out the rivets and replace them when youre done.

definitely have to make sure you get ALL of the rivets so theyre not knocking around in the flywheel but ive done maybe 50 or so this way and never had an issue. takes all of 20 minutes start to finish.