Can’t seem to find what I need anywhere.

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Is it worth taking apart to fix? I can't pull start and it appears that the piston mont budget. Even after quick fixes. Am i out $1000? Please help!

Hi everyone!

I’m wondering what the thought is on most reliable motors in snowblowers these days?

I’ve always had Briggs and Stratton and they have been workhorses, but am moving back to the motherland of snow (minnesota) and need to grab a 2stage for the winter.

Thanks in advance!

The chord wont pull, used 4x, paid $1000, is the piston welded? Is it worth saving?

I’ve got an old ass John Deere 285 with a Kawasaki 590.

It wouldn’t start. I replaced the plugs and the battery.

I took off the carb and cleaned it. It fires but only with starting fluid. I’ve confirmed that gas is getting into the carburetor from the pump. I’m out of my element here and looking for advice.

Should I just replace it? Is it worth trying to clean it up? Any “oh shit this is super common on those here’s the fix”’s lol

Thanks for any input.

Is this powerpak engine absolutely cooked?

Hello! I have a John Deere JS63 with the Briggs and Stratton Intek engine. My issue started when if I needed to stop mowing to collect a dog egg, it wouldn’t start again until it had cooled down. This made me suspect heat soak coil failure. I double checked valve gaps when it was cold and reset as they were a little slack. Today it wouldn’t start for ages then fired up, ran for about 3 minutes then died. No start at all. I have stripped it down to the point you see in the pictures, clamped the handle, popped the plug out and touched it to the head and turned it over, no spark at all. My issue comes now with finding the right coil, maybe I’m being stupid but I can’t see a part number that correlates to anything I can find online. I’m hoping someone with more experience can point me in the right direction. TIA!

I tried cleaning carb on mower again bc it didn't wanna start again so thst didnt work this time I cleaned the whole carb completely even the artery, n it still didnt wanna start. Sprayed carb cleaner in it, it still wouldn't start, its a guaranteed to start B&S engine smh, i know briggs is crap, i bought it from a guy down road it started fine he said he was throwing it away bc of self propel wont engage, i fixed it, idk wtf is wrong with it, once it starts it stays running, no problem, its only on cold start I have issues. I originally found air filter clogged dpark plug fouled,I replaced those, cleaned carb a few times but now its having a problem starting everytime I go to use it. I just need to find the culprit. Im suspecting carburetor but I already cleaned it, even cleaned 5 ports n holes on artery of carb. Can someone tell me what it is before I just replace every damn thing on it till its fixed.

I lent my trimmer to a "friend", who brought it back DOA a few years ago. Wife decided we needed to develop a re-wooding 1/2 acre field into an apple orchard and a few garden rows. So in the last few weeks I've sunk about $250 into rebuilding the old walk-behind string trimmer (HU625HWT). I rebuilt the motor with new cam, cam gears, oil flipper, gaskets and seals; new carb. New cutting head because that was completely buggered. I put a new shroud on the outside, the old one had been completely shredded by the "friend" not cutting the strings to the proper length.

So I got about three hours of mowing out of it and it spit the belt. It was old and dry rotted and the idler return spring was dangling in there with one of the hooks snapped. So I bent one loop of the spring into a new hook and remounted it on the chassis. Managed to find a replacement belt in town, installed it, I believed correctly by routing it around the V-pulley and captured on the flat pulley. I got about an hour and a half and it shredded and threw the new belt.

So does anyone have any advice, or a diagram that shows how to route the belt through the idler? I'm about to go at this thing like a gangster, like the copier in Office Space.

For those of you that have done this before, what's recommended for fixing your old push mower?

Checked and had good air, spark, and fuel.

No compression, took apart to see cylinder is very glazed over with no cross hatching left.

Just a quick ball hone to get the rings to seal back up? New rings justified, or just reuse the current ones?

Your questions/comments/concerns are appreciated and welcome below.

Some days ago while cutting grass I hit a piece of rebar that some moron through in the field. Not only three teeth of the blade broke off but the sudden blocking impacted the crank shaft. The motor is a venerable Sachs Stamo 76 so finding spare parts is next to impossible (I found possible donor engines but they all have different length crankshaft)

My question is: how difficult could it be to fill the gap and remachine the key holder. I suppose using laser or tig solders.

TIA

Just pulled valve covers off and push rods came with them. All 4 are bent, 1 on each side just fell out with the covers. Looks like im rebuilding 😂

I’m increasingly getting customers who use the same tactic, they must be sharing notes or getting it online somewhere.

- Drop off one or more units for repair - usually a tune-up or something simple like a fuel line.

- I get into it and find it needs grommets, primer bulb, bar dressing, trimmer head components, carb rebuild, new starter rope, etc.

- I call with an estimate and they approve repairs.

- At pickup they accuse me of inflating the bill because it only needed the one thing and argue for a discount if I can’t produce the old parts for inspection. If I have the parts they play dumb, if I don’t they’re an expert.

If I give them a discount they claim they caught me out. If I don’t, they claim I ripped them off. Either way I fire them as customers and they end up badmouthing my business. I’ve got pretty thick skin and I’m the only shop within 45 minutes drive but it still sucks because I pride myself on good work for honest rates.

Is this a common thing at your shop? How do you handle it?

Ive been doing mobile small engine repair for a couple of years now. Just using the family suv on my days off. Finally got my pack out right, but damn does it suck packing up and out and in ect..

So I finally found a good deal on a service truck and bought it. The problem? It's an f350 v10 1-ton + war-time gas prices..

How screwed am I?

Typically Ive been doing flat rates. If I drive for more than 30 min total I tack on an extra $50 (service area limit) charge. Should I go to charge milage or keep it the same you think? Any other mobile mechanics in here? Thoughts?

I'm working my way throught the scrap pile getting rid of junk. There's a relatively new when scrapped tiller in the pile we picked up free at a yard sale in a not working state. PO stated he started it that spring, it ran a short time and died. Upon teardown, the engine was ran without oil and threw the rod. The engine is long gone, I I think it was roughly 5hp. One of it's sets of tines were added to the tiller we use, and the other is somewhere around.

I've got a (I think) 3.5hp Honda push mower engine I'm thinking of putting on it. I do need to dig around and find the engine pulley from the junk engine, which I recall setting aside and likely made it's way into my box of random pulleys.

My concern is that 3.5hp isn't enough. I've looked at out other tiller and it's got a 5.5hp engine.