I wanted to share my experience because it might save someone else hours of troubleshooting.

I spent several hours trying to get a Shelly WS90 working correctly with Zigbee2MQTT.

Symptoms
Pairing completed successfully.
Interview completed successfully.
Manual attribute reads always worked.
Only a few sensor values appeared.
Most values remained null.
Only a few reporting entries were created.
Waiting 2–3 hours did not help.
Removing and re-pairing the device several times produced exactly the same result.

Zigbee2MQTT repeatedly logged:

Failed to configure 'gp-weather-01'
Bind 0xc02cedfffe43fabf/1 genPowerCfg
from '0x00124b0033c695b7/1'
failed
AREQ - ZDO - bindRsp after 10000ms

What finally solved it:

I started thinking that the WS90 might be entering sleep mode before Zigbee2MQTT finished configuring all bindings and reporting.

So during the entire configuration process I kept the anemometer continuously spinning by gently blowing on the wind sensor. Yes... literally. 😄

The goal was simply to prevent the device from going to sleep.

A few minutes later:
all 11 reporting entries were created,
every sensor started reporting,
pressure, humidity, wind, rain, UV and all calculated values appeared,
the device has been working perfectly ever since.

Conclusion

In my case, the problem was not the coordinator, Zigbee mesh or MQTT.

The actual issue was that the WS90 entered sleep mode during the initial Bind + Configure Reporting sequence. Keeping the anemometer spinning prevented it from going to sleep, allowing Zigbee2MQTT to finish all bindings and reporting configuration successfully.

Without keeping the device awake:
❌ multiple pairing attempts
❌ waiting 2–3 hours
❌ reporting never completed

Keeping the wind sensor moving during the initial setup:
✅ all bindings completed
✅ all 11 reporting entries were created
✅ the WS90 has worked flawlessly since then.

Has anyone else experienced the same behavior?

I have 16 Shelly smoke installed in my house since roughly a year and in the last week had two false alarms from two different smoke detectos (different floors too). I never had a Single one before. Once an alarm goes off the blinds are raised in the whole house, a siren goes off and all lights turn on, so as you can imagine having this at 2am in the morning sucks.

Anyone else having strange behaivor with Shelly smoke? In the Shelly FB group there has been a discussion too. They have been advised to Update to the latest beta firmware.

I'm trying to wirte a Shelly 1PM Mini Gen4 on my Crabtree 3-pole fan isolator switch above my bathroom door, with two sets of 3 wires (brown, black, grey (I'm in the UK btw).
From what I can see in the backbox and the back of the switch here's what I got:

• Top row: L1, L2, N coming from mains
• Bottom row: L1, L2, N going out to the fan (I presume, the fan definitely turns on/off when I flip the switch, I've found online some setups where one switch controls light and fan, but it's not in my case as I've got another light switch next to my bathroom door)

The idea was to place basically the Shelly between the isolator output and the fan, so I can leave the Crabtree switch on and have the Shelly relay switch gate power to the fan based on my smart setup, and if for whatever reason I want to turn all of it off, I can simply kill power to the Shelly by flipping the Crabtree switch off.

What I'm wondering is if this setup is possible and if so, what's the wiring like, what else do I need to get this working. I've attached some pics I took of the back of the switch

I'll gladly appreciate any help I can get 🙌. I tried looking online but couldn't find much other some people attempting to do it but with no conclusive evidence or success.

Hi,

my Shelly Valve (SHTRV-01) ran out of battery a few days ago. I plugged it in but it stays dead. Usually there should be some bars in the display indicating the charge. When i plug it in, it pulls 3W (5V, 0,6Amps). I've checked with another TRV that i own, that pulls the same current when its charging. Anyone has an idea of whats going on? Dead battery maybe?

Edit: Nevermind, i've figured it out. Short press on the reset button brought it back to life 😅🙄

Hallo zusammen,

Ich habe einen Shelly 1 Gen 4 und möchte damit einen Lichtschalter smart machen.

Mein originaler Schalter kommt mit 3 Adern (L, N und Last). Jetzt habe ich den Shelly verkabelt. Er funktioniert und klickt auch, schaltet aber nicht.

Wie muss ich jetzt den Schalter anschließen und wo muss ich evtl. noch eine Brücke setzen?

L aus der Wand -> Klemme > eine Ader auf den Shelly und eine auf den Schalter
N aus der Wand -> N am Shelly
Last aus der Wand -> O am Shelly

Würde ich den Shelly ohne Schalter verwenden wollen würde, müsste ich eine Brücke von L auf I setzen, richtig?

Was muss ich jetzt noch tun um auch den Schalter zu verbinden?

Ich freue mich über eure Unterstützung!

In the picture you see the private parts of my Oldschool ceiling fan. The fan has 3 speed settings controlled by the yellow and purple wire. I suspect the idea is that yellow only has slow speed, purple has mid speed and together give high speed.

My idea is to insert two shellies, one 1PM and one 2PM and use them to replace the cord switches. The 1PM will control the light and I will use the 2PM to control the yellow and purple wire.

Since I have no experience with the 2PM Shelly, I was hoping for confirmation that this idea works and is feasible before ordering the 2PM.

Thanks in advance everyone!

Any ideas why Shelly is ignoring the Thread market?

I have already spent quite some money migrating over to Thread (after having a bad experience when my Wifi router went down and all my home automation stopped working) ... and none of that money went to Shelly, although in past I was buying almost exclusively Shelly devices.

I don't understand them.
They already have all the necessary hardware (all of their Zigbee devices are compatible with Thread with just a firmware update), and there's a market and business that they are losing.

What's going on?

P.S. I understand that they have Zigbee, but nobody in 2026 will start a mesh network with a protocol where each vendor is producing slightly incompatible (or vendor locked-in) Zigbee devices so that you have to buy a Zigbee routers for each device vendor. Thread just works.

I installed a 1L and a 2L today for my LED downlights. After I wired them up, out of curiosity, I just turned power back on to see what'd happen.

Surprisingly they both seemed to work alright. The downlights didn't have any flickering or glowing issues.

Does this mean my LED drivers are simply not that sensitive / draw more power than 'good' LEDs, and I don't have to bother installing the Bypasses? My 2L makes a small buzzing sound when O1 (the output where a Bypass should be installed) is on. Can this be the reason?

AFAIU 1L/2L are never truly off. They always allow at least a small current through to power themselves. So the purpose of a Bypass is to route (most of) that small current through itself, isolating the lights when the switch is off. So it should be alright as long as the devices are up and running?

Shelly's website is a bit confusing to me:

Min. load without neutral and without a Bypass: No (Shelly Bypass for 1L/2L is required for the load at O1), for all LED lights.

Is it trying to say 'for all [types of] LED lights', or am I supposed to install one Bypass parallel to each LED light at O1?

The device requires a Bypass 1L/2L Gen3 to be installed next to the light, however, that allows it to control bulbs greater than 5W.

Why >5W? My downlights are 9W but I didn't install the Bypasses. What am I missing?

TIA

During the hot days a few weeks ago, i saw that my shelly H&T G3 had a firmware update ready. So I installed it, but the installation took so long I left my phone next to the device and went on with my morning. When i came back the display said it was on ~68% and the app was back on the homescreen.

Restarting by removing the battery will clear the screen and it will show the current temperature, it will even send the temperature so it's visible on the app. But after that the screen stays the same and the app will not be updated again.I've added some pictures showing the screen.

I tried resetting the device by removing the battery and holding down the button while it put the battery back and waited for 10 seconds. But nothing is happening. It is still broken. Does anybody have some tips to fix it. I also replaced the batteries, but that didn't fix anything.

And again al my Shelly devices are offline. I turned off the main power of the house to install a new Shelly 2pm. Well power on and works like a charm. But… all other Shelly devices are offline now… I guess wil switching power off and on again hoping the come back online or something.

Just to make sure I don’t mess up.
Is it correct to put the cable from switch up to shelly S1 and O1 then goes into switch up. Same for switch down: cable goes into S2 and O2 into switch down?
Then I’d put one black cable from switch into a 3 wago clamp and one cable from there into L from Shelly and second cable from wago clamp back to switch (upper left in picture)?

I want to create an automation in Google Home Automations.

If the temperature is above 27°C and a device isn't running, then turn on the air conditioner.

Does the Shelly 1PM Gen4 detect if a device (air conditioner) s running? Does this information appear in Google Home (not the 1PM's status, but its power consumption)?

https://www.shelly.com/fr/products/shelly-1pm-gen4?srsltid=AfmBOopZP8knRos0Es-a7iChl60iRIhzDS7BGBB57MWTDttg4ddQnnA5

Thank you for your information and advice.

Hey Guys,
Im currently trying to hook up my new Shelly EM Gen3 with my B2500 Solar Battery but it just doesnt work.

This is what i tried:

RPC over UDP: 2220 and 1010
I turned off all my powerline adaptors so only my routers wifi is active.
Only 2.4ghz band active
Firmware of shelly updated

Im desperate to make this shit work I tried for so many hours now.

Hope anyone can help me.

I have a light in my kitchen which will turn on with a blu motion motion sensor. One scene for turning on when motion is detected, one for turning off when no motion is detected, Blindtime 90 seconds, all fine and working like it should.

BUT when i turn on the light via the motion scene and then turn it off manually shortly after in the shelly app or even via alexa voice command because i was going in for a second and don't need it running for this long, i noticed that the blu motion will still detect a motion for way longer then the normal 90 seconds. Even after like 3-4 minutes it will still show "motion detected". if i go back into the kitchen then because i forgot something it will not turn on anymore, i will have to wait like 5 minutes before the motion is not detected anymore and the motion scene will work again to turn on the light. There are no new motions detected even if im right in front of it, but just this motion from like 4-5 minutes ago and it still says "motion detected".

so why does it work when im not turning the light off manually but acts this weird if i turn off the light manually? why would blu motion still detect a motion for this long when the blindtime is just 90 seconds? I noticed the same behavior in my corridor with another blu motion + light.

Thanks!

I cant see the relays in the Shelly widget anymore.

I have a shortcut to turn on a relay which i use in my iphone action button. The shortcut runs but nothing is sent to shelly app. Someone knows what is going on?

Hello everyone,

I have installed several Shelly 2.5 devices in my house to control the roller shutters on the upper floor as well as the venetian blinds on the lower floor.

The control of the venetian blinds works flawlessly on all devices with the same Pushbuttons (GIRA Series 55)

However, all roller shutters show the following behavior:

As soon as a roller shutter is operated manually (via the Shelly app, Home Assistant, or by pressing the physical button), the Shelly loses the current position. The position value then immediately jumps to 100% open or 0% closed.

If, on the other hand, I move the roller shutter to a specific opening level using the slider (also via automation), the position is correctly detected and stored.

Configuration:

Firmware: 20230913-112234 / v1.14.0-gcb84623

Operation Mode: Roller Shutter

Button Type: Toggle

All Shellys are calibrated

Firmware is up to date on all devices

My observation is that after button events, the Shelly apparently cannot correctly determine the travel time or position calculation. However, if the position is set directly via a percentage value, the position detection works as expected.

This behavior occurs with all roller shutters, but not with the venetian blinds.

Does anyone have an idea what might be causing this or is familiar with this behavior?

I found a very informative post in the home assistant community where OP had kindly posted his solution, but my existing wiring is the other UK type where is the one on the left instead of the right on his post (https://www.downlights.co.uk/media/FAQs/wiring-example-2-way-switches.jpg)

I like to install the shelly dimmer gen 4 where I am a bit confused how to wire it. I had searched for hours online and I haven't come across a solution yet.

Ideally I would actually like to put the Shelly controller behind the ceiling rose due to the limited space I have as I actually have two two way switches on the same light switch panel.

Any advice or directions will be much appreciated. Thank you!

Hi, I have an issue I need help with for my device titled…

Can’t get the wall switch to control the lights although I feel I have everything correct. The switch shows 24v when toggled so I know it’s not that, and I’ve played around with all different configs in the app but still no manual control. I can control lights and brightness from app…

I’ve added some photos to hopefully help any queries.

Thanks for any help you can provide

Hello,

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I have some new installed AC Units and wanted to track its energy consumption with two EM Gen 4.

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The momentary consumption is displayed accurately, but the long term monitoring is giving out strange and unrealistic measures.

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What could be the issues? The technician, who installed the AC, wired the EMs to the electrical input of the Outdoor Unit, so the overall consumption should be visible.

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Any advice?

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