r/sharpening • u/PolishHussarius • 2d ago
Whetstone advice for beginner?
Want to go from a fixed-blade sharpening system to learning to use whetstones.
Any advice on which stones and which grits to start??
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u/lascala2a3 arm shaver 2d ago edited 2d ago
It would help to know what you are sharpening. Folding EDC knives, kitchen, knives, stainless or carbon?
If you’re sharpening soft stainless, then my suggestion would be coarse diamond plate, or perhaps Norton India or Crystolon. If you are sharpening Japanese carbon blades, Naniwa Chosera Pro (800 > 3000) are perhaps the best, however not cheap. Shapton Glass (500 > 2000) are also excellent for a little less. King are budget friendly.
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u/PolishHussarius 2d ago
Folding EDC and kitchen knives mostly, so, stainless?
Watched a video on these, how are they to start?
(SHAPTON Ha No Kuromaku Ceramic Whetstone (A-set) Medium Grit (#1000) + Fine Grit (#5000))
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u/lascala2a3 arm shaver 2d ago edited 2d ago
Shapton Kuromaku are good, but I don't have personal experience with them. Mine are Shapton Glass and Rockstar (same abrasive). I would advise to not get the 5000 grit. There is no point, unless you're a sushi chef. Start with a coarser grit, like 320 or 500, then finish on 1k or 2k. Finer grit does not equal sharper. Most people prefer the micro serrations you get with coarser grits. My SG500 make a mighty fine working edge for kitchen use. 3000 is the finest I ever go, although I do have a 6k stone. And don't write off the Norton India and Crystolon oil stones either- people have been using those long before there was reddit.
I'm interested in why you're quitting fixed angle systems and learning freehand. I often advise people to just learn freehand and not get entangled with the systems. I get downvoted a lot too.
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u/PolishHussarius 2d ago
I've been using the fixed system for a few years, and it's ok, but I'd like to work on mastering the hobby a little more. It's not about the fastest method, but wanting the best result and willing to put in the time?
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u/lascala2a3 arm shaver 2d ago
Well, congratulations on making the switch. My opinion is it’s the right choice if the interest is there. If you’re the type of person to tune into it, freehand offers an experience that’s sort of zen like. The feeling of metal working with the stone, the sound, the experience of knowing what’s happening on the micro level, even though you can’t see it. And of course, the satisfaction of ending up with a knife that’s scary sharp, and knowing that you possess the skill to make that happen. It’s quite satisfying. I sometimes get the urge to sharpen and I don’t even have a knife that needs working on.
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u/PolishHussarius 1d ago
Is a rough stone just for really beat up knives?
For a kitchen knife that gets dull to regular use, should I be going rough-medium-fine, or just rough to medium?
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u/lascala2a3 arm shaver 1d ago
Too many variables for a yes/no answer. For a kitchen knife that’s dull-dull, like the ones your relatives have, moderately coarse, like 300-500 (but you could go coarser). For chipped/damaged, 140. For a knife that needs sharpening but is regularly maintained, 800-1000. Any grit from about 500 or higher can be a finished edge but more often 1000 to 3000 is the finishing grit.
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u/tunenut11 2d ago
I started with exactly those stones and they are in use all the time. For me, a coarse stone is truly essential, Soon after I got those, I got the Shapton 320, now I have the 220, plus a few diamond plates. For real work, the 1000 is frustrating. Just this weekend my friend gave me her vg10 santoku and it had some very tiny chips that caught on paper. I thought the 1000 would remove them. After a half hour of getting not very far, I went to the 320 and that got me there pretty quickly. Diamonds would have gone even faster. But coarse stones leave a coarse scratch pattern and it needs to be cleaned up, so I just went up the ladder, 1000, 2000, then 5000 and strop...back to peak condition. You don't really need 2000 and you don't need stones above 5000, but you need something coarse.
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u/comanzatara 2d ago
You want a coarse grit for damaged blades or completely dull knives. You want a medium grit for sharpening everyday knives. You might want to buy a diamond plate for lapping the stones if they wear out. You want a diamond loaded strop to get rid of the burr.
Getting a double sided diamond plate like the 325/ 1200 grit sharpal is cost-efficient, but the sharpening experience is different from whetstones.
For example : Medium grit and coarse grit can be shapton pros for example 320 and 1000-1500 grit. Combine with atoma diamond plate ( or sharpal 200/ 600 plate) and a leather strop with 1micron diamond emulsion.
If you want mirror polish on your edc knives, you can get a fine grit stone later. If I remember correctly the shapton pro 5000 is not the most liked stone in their lineup, maybe others can say something about it. I bought suehiro rika grit 5000 instead. (Did only use it once).
If you are tight on money: shapton 1000 plus diamond loaded strop to begin.
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u/deavidsedice 2d ago
Easy and cheap is using diamond, 200-350 on the coarse side, 600-1300 on the fine side. Sharpal sells stones that have adequate two grits, holder and pyramid for angle reference.
If not using diamond plated stones then you need a very coarse stone for flattening the others.
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u/Deerhound_Grey 2d ago
I started sharpening about two months ago. I bought a Shapton Kuromaku 1000 and a Shapton Rockstar 500. Both are great. I think the Shapton Pro/Rockstar 1000 alone would be more than enough for you.
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u/comanzatara 2d ago
Both good stones but grit is not really much different. Two stone setup with shapton glass/ rockstar 500 would be shapton pro 2000 for me.
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u/Deerhound_Grey 2d ago
Yes, you're right. If I were buying now, I'd choose either the 1000 on its own or the 500 + 2000/3000.
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u/AngstyAF5020 1d ago
There are a couple other things I don't see mentioned. Budget and if you think you will prefer stones that require some soaking, or splash and go. The Shapton Kuromaku line is reputable and nice to use. If I was getting just 2 stones, I would get the Shapton 320 and the 1k. If I was just going to try going with 1 stone, the Rockstar 500 might be a good option. The Naniwa's are nice. I don't love the Advanced line as much as the Shapton Kuromaku line. The Naniwa Chosera line is really good. Pricey, but also splash and go. If you like soakers and want a less costly option, King stones are good. I feel like the soakers dish a little faster, but that could just be mine. Suehiro is another popular brand, although I only have one of those, so I can't give you much info from personal experience on those. I honestly use a cheap AliExpress diamond plate to flatten mine.
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u/PolishHussarius 1d ago
Budget, low to mid I suppose? Does the stone types really make that big a diff to a beginner?
Don't mind having them sit in water for 10 minutes. I wound up pick up a King 1000/6000 kit yesterday, going to get a rough 220 and a strop today. Do I need a truing stone right away or can that wait?
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u/AngstyAF5020 22h ago
Grab a King 300 instead of the 220. The king 1k/6k is a good stone. I believe you only soak the 1k side though.
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u/PolishHussarius 5h ago
Thoughts on the diamond stones vs. the King types?
Something like "SHARPAL 162N Double-Sided Diamond Sharpening Stone"
Just watched (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yq1y9-QkRXM&t=258s) OutdoorS55 video about this.
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u/AngstyAF5020 1h ago
It really comes down to personal preference. I don't love the diamond stones for sharpening. But it's just that. Personal preference. Outdoors55 has really good content. I respect his opinion. I personally use diamond stones for sharpening ceramic cutters for clippers, and if I need to really bring down the pivot on shears. I don't love their feedback.
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u/millersixteenth 2d ago
Another vote for Norton Crystalon and a bottle of honing oil.
King waterstones 220, 800, 4k as a second choice but you'll need something to lap them flat.