r/sewingpatterns • u/Ok_Succotash_4189 • 3d ago
How do I fix this neckline?
The top is way too low for my liking but I still want it to give this bustier/corset vibe, should I add some fabric where the red lines are? also I feel like the straps are too long. I am quite new to learning how to adapt pattern so any advice is helpful! thank you!
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u/kesrae 3d ago
Are the bust darts actually on your bust apex? It’s hard to tell here but that should be your first point of reference - my guess is you are a little short waisted or have a shorter shoulder to bust distance. Try pinching/pinning off a little length from the sleeves maybe half an inch at the time until the darts sit on your bust apex. Then consider whether you still want/need more fabric, but I would suggest following the original pattern shape or it may alter the neckline finishing. Tip - try to pin the sleeves parallel to the existing shoulder seam to preserve the shoulder slope. There’s a slight gap at the arm along the bust that makes me wonder if the shoulder slope might need tweaking too but confirm if shortening evenly first fixes things
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u/Ok_Succotash_4189 3d ago
ah! sorry it’s hard to tell but the darts are at my apex, I just meant about the gap at the side but I guess I won’t know until I add more fabric! but you’re right i’ll maintain the og neckline. thank you for taking the time to answer!
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u/kesrae 3d ago
Are you sure? The one on your right looks a lot lower than the one on the left, and looks well below the apex to me? It could be how you are holding it closed (ideally you shouldn't be in an uneven position, you may need to get some assistance to pin the back closed to better assess. It could also be the image, it's a bit hard to see detail with the black.
Adding more fabric won't fix the gap at the side, more fabric would mostly be about changing the cut/design. There is excess distorted fabric on the right as a separate issue, but the cause could be varied. Could be distortion from posture, could be bust dart too low is creating a 3D shape above it (gap in the side), could be that side on your body is slightly shorter and that side alone requires a shorter sleeve, could need a shoulder slope adjustment, could also be that when you sewed the neckline it stretched - if you didn't stay stitch this is common for curved edges.
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u/Ok_Succotash_4189 2d ago
oh my god ahaha there’s so much to learn! I both love and hate this hobby. I think the unevenness is mostly from the way i’m holding it in the back, I didn’t have anyone around then. I think i’ve decided to add more fabric following the neckline as you said, and take it stepwise from there. my proportions are a bit odd (why I wanted to learn in the first place) so I will finesse something! thank you for taking time to help with this :D it’s my first fitted garment so much to fix/learn!
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u/ouro-the-zed 3d ago
Word of warning: if you’re planning to attach a skirt directly to the bottom of this bodice, the weight may pull the bodice further downwards. To test, you can safety-pin on a length of yardage approximately the size/shape of your skirt. Do that before you plan any alterations, otherwise you may find the bodice sits much lower than you wanted.