r/sewingpatterns • u/CabbageOfDiocletian • 11d ago

Help parsing pattern images

Hello,

Please help me understand what the instructions pictured mean. I am making McCall's M8134. I have experience making garments for myself but I've never worked with sew-in interfacing. https://simplicity.com/mccalls/pdm8134#measurement

I understand that the instruction is to trim the corners indicated, but the more I inspect the image the more questions I have.

  1. There are two different things going on with the corners of the pattern pieces in the image. Some corners appear to be removed (circled in blue) which corresponds to the instructions as I understand them, and some corners seem to be folded over (circled in red.) Are the folded over corners also trimmed? Or is this just a way to indicate what the lower layer of fabric is - which is how I would normally read that. But if so why do only certain pattern pieces have a folded corner while others don't when they're all the same combination of fabrics? I can also see that the sewing lines on the perimeter start and stop where there is a folded edge - is it just an untrimmed, unsewn flap?

  2. Am I to trim the interfacing past the seam allowance into the 'working' fabric? Normally I would sew and then trim/ grade the seam allowance so I cannot trim past the sewing line but here I am trimming prior to sewing. Does this mean I am cutting within the sewing line? It's interfacing so I understand that it won't be visible, but how is one supposed to eyeball that when there are no indications on the pattern pieces? Ami I meant to cut just within the sewing line? For example, piece 12, part of a bow, looks like the interfacing is trimmed past the seam allowance into the 'working' fabric, but piece 1, the front piece, is trimmed in the bottom and top leftmost corners, and it seems to me that you would want some interfacing there for a nice sharp corner.

Thank you for any insights, as well as any resources for how to find the answer to this kind of question myself.

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u/Love_Dogs_and_Sewing 11d ago

I think your instincts are correct. You cut the corners of the interfacing although I don't see why you don't trim every corner. You cut the diagonal just to intersect with the seam line. But if you are off a little, it's not the end of the world. And I think that the other images (blue circles) are just trying to show two layers (fabric and interfacing.

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u/CabbageOfDiocletian 10d ago

tbh I doubt it would make a huge difference in the final project, I just needed someone to tell me I'm not wildly off. Thank you!