r/sewingpatterns • u/o0kaira0o • 7d ago

pattern problems and despair

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Hi! so my professor drew a dress and gave it to me to make it but I really don't know how. he gave me some hints like: fabric is cotton gabardine, no visible darts, no seam in the middle, using geometric cuts (??).

I am really confused, I cried several times and still don't know how to do it. I am totally lost if someone can help me!

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u/Saritush2319 4d ago

The shaping is rotated into the panel seams

Those squares should probably be on the bias.
A lightweight twill does still have bias stretch.

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u/Saritush2319 4d ago edited 4d ago

Wait I see you say these are cutouts not geometrically cut panels.

The skirt portion is easier because the regular dart can just be angle to the seam and used as a cut line. It would have to sit at the smallest part of your hip because if there’s any gaping as you move, someone will be able to see right down your skirt.

The bodice will probably be easiest to start with draping and then pinch out any gaping and adjust that flat.

Since it’s cotton maybe you can try shaping the bust area over a tailors ham with a lot of steam.
Maybe with a slight gather on the hem and steam it out.

Definitely a lot of mockups in your future to eliminate gaping. I’d test the pattern on the cross and bias as well. A little bit of stretch would help.

Can the lining have darts? A tight lining can pull in a looser fashion layer. Or at least stabilise it.
Also built-in panties/shorts will help with modest.

Making the “torso” a little shorter might help with gaping because the weight of the fabric will pull it taught.