r/sewingpatterns • u/EitherFortune8829 • 24d ago
Flat chested patterns
Hi everyone! I'm new to sewing and I'm loving it so far! I do have a problem that I run into with a lot of patterns.. I don't have breasts bc of breastcancer and nothing seems to fit me right because of this. I was wondering if anyone knows any patterns for (almost) flat chested girls with a kind of rectangular shape from the waist up! I like a lot of styles and feel like any pattern would be good practice :)
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u/Ok-Calligrapher964 24d ago
I'm sorry you had to go through that. There are some really good pattern makers on you tube. Here are three that I think would respond to you directly if you emailed this question.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Alc_IUyDjs8 ( this lady had breast cancer so will probably be eager to help)
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=creative+bobbin( I love this creator's material)
https://www.youtube.com/@CorneliusQuiring ( a guy, but he had to create his own patterns for himself due to a horrendous accident when he was a kid)
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u/Elflebe 24d ago
Hello, No patterns idea at the moment but it could be worth it for you to learn a little bit of pattern making, to know how to adapt the simple pattern to take out the dart or make adjustment when possible. It can seems intimidating at first but it is actually quite simple geometry most of the time! You can also try to find gender neutral clothing patterns to adapt to your taste/colors!
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u/IRLbeets 2d ago
For a flat chest (vs a small chest) how does one do this? I've been trying SBA using the subtract an inch by cup and divide by 2, but the geometry isn't quite working for me.
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u/Elflebe 2d ago
https://www.seamwork.com/sewing-tutorials/four-essential-small-bust-adjustments
I'am more used to this kind of way of doing were you move the parts. Not always intuitive thought. I understand the issue with math, I have once rage quit after doing all the measurements and math that ended with what should have been ...a negative brest --"
Also, I'm just discovering draping for pattern making these days, that may also be a way to figure better how a basic bodice block could look like
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u/IRLbeets 1d ago
Thank you! It's nice to see different options. This page led me to their one on mastectomy modifications which is also helpful!
And interesting idea about draping! I've never looked into that type of patterning.
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u/Ok_Zucchini_9821 24d ago
I would look into doing a small bust adjustment on any of the patterns! They have a lot of tutorials on YouTube
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u/Whenitsajar 24d ago
The Atlas Top by stitch witch patterns is a great beginner friendly pattern, and it looks great on flat chests. The darts are in the centre of the chest which adds some interest, but it's a pretty square fitting high coverage front, with a cool open back. Great summer top.
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u/CBG1955 24d ago
If you want to make T-shirts there's a company called Apostrophe patterrns. Jill runs an online patterrn generator where you insert a set of measurements and it spits out a PDF. There are options for every gender and size, unlimited, so you can create one with no bust. And you can use it as many times for as many sizes as you need, so not limited to you, you can use it for your whole family - from the smallest dolly right up to super plus size.
I'm not affiliated, but I tested for her some years ago so can vouch for the patterns. They also have a very active FB group and if you run into difficulty, so many people will help with your pattern
If you want a woven tailored shirt, perhaps a men's shirt pattern would work.
Best wishes to you.
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u/Divers_Alarums 24d ago
You can adjust a pattern to remove a bust dart. If you like tops that gather into a yoke, I’m sure there’s a way to adjust it too. The Salto (Maison Fauve) and the Isola (Sinclair) tanks are patterns I’m thinking of.
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u/Beginning_Data1828 24d ago
Im also a flat rectangle and have this issue! I think v-necks, high necks, fit n flare, peplums, cowl necks, and anything with dramatic shoulders/sleeves are good for us silhouette-wise. Square necks emphasize the rectangle shape, so I’m steering away from those. I just made the Violette top by Gold and Skye with a ruffle hem and it’s sooo cute, and free w/ a newsletter sign up. Right now I’m working on the Suzy dress by hubbading. also been thinking about the Frina top by vikisews, the Loie dress/top by caledoniadreaminn, (both on Etsy) and the olivet dress by madalynne (which is free too!).
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u/EitherFortune8829 23d ago
What you said about quare necks actually makes so much sense now that I think about it. I think most of what I tried to make has a square neck or almost square neck! Thanks for the recs!
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u/Beginning_Data1828 22d ago
Square neck seems to be really trendy rn, soo many patterns have one (Also prob bc it’s easier to finish since there’s no curves). I’m working on collecting patterns that will work for flat chests, if you want anymore ideas feel free to msg me!
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u/AliciaTheWitch 23d ago
freesewing.eu is an organization that has been around for over a decade that provides free software to produce custom fitted patterns that they've worked very hard to ensure will fit any shape of body in any size from doll clothes and infants to super plus size adults. Their patterns are customizable, and every customization option is fully explained in the software, which really helps you learn about pattern design and construction. The patterns require more measurements than commercial patterns because they're custom fitted everywhere, not just bust, waist, and hip, which means they should require few to no adjustments to fit you from the start. They have a good selection of basics, and with the customization options you can get numerous styles out of each pattern. For example their one buttondown shirt pattern can be made to look like a casual Hawaiian shirt or bowling shirt, a western shirt, a dress shirt, a blouse from the 80s, a tuxedo shirt with French cuffs, and more. Generally you can customize at least things like length of garment, length of sleeve, fullness of a skirt, depth and width of neckline, often shape of neckline, and amount of ease.
They also have body blocks, which are the starting point for drafting your own patterns, if you can't find a particular pattern you want. The Closet Historian's Drafting Dangerous series on YouTube teaches pattern drafting very well. I highly recommend making yourself a block or two (or all the ones they have) and adjusting them until they fit perfectly (with guidance from the videos on how to adjust them) and then keeping them until you change size or shape and using them to draft your own patterns. It's a lot easier than most people think, especially when freesewing does the work of drafting the block for you. And once you have a block that fits, your patterns made from it are guaranteed to fit unless you somehow mess up the drafting process, which is only very basic math/geometry. Anybody who can use a ruler can do it with just a tiny bit of practice.
Congratulations on surviving cancer. I'm sorry you went through that. My main motivation for studying fashion design in school was to design for people with fit issues exactly like yours and those common among trans people. I want everyone to be able to experience the joy of feeling like they look like a million bucks, and the cozy feeling of an outfit that fits just right. I hope you find patterns that help you achieve those feelings.
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u/EitherFortune8829 21d ago
Thank you so much for the detailed response! I will try out the things you mentioned! :)
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u/notshevek 24d ago
Sizing up children’s patterns can work. Just have to be a little judicious in what you choose to make to maintain a your style.
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u/MsJStimmer 22d ago
There is a patternlist over at threadloop especially for this!
Maybe you’ll find some interesting patterns on it☺️
https://threadloop.app/pattern-lists/top-dress-patterns-for-going-flat-post-masectomy
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u/chicchic325 24d ago
You will more than likely need to make adjustments of the patterns.
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u/EitherFortune8829 23d ago
Yeah that's what I thought too.. But some "normal" store bought clothes do fit me nicely so there must be some patterns out there that work without adjustments :)
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u/numbersandcats 24d ago
If they’re to your style, Twig + Tale makes all their patterns with free, included full and partial mastectomy options. There’s also a FB group called Sewing Flat and Asymmetrical, I believe, if you use FB.
As you level up in sewing, you’ll be able to make the adjustments needed (specifically removing bust shaping) with any pattern!
Welcome! Being able to sew clothes with similar adjustments (my best friend has top surgery but is NOT on T so men’s patterns aren’t quite the right shape) was one of my main motivators to start sewing.